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Old 03-16-2021, 06:36 AM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TTMartin View Post
Exactly what I've been saying. DC while driving, propane when stopped. We don't have anyone in the trailer opening the refrigerator door while we're driving.
Selective quoting. I said IF I am plugged into 120 VAC and put the refrigerator on DC. What part of DC while driving doesn’t work for me and many others here is it that you cannot seem to comprehend? Yes, I know people who have beefed up their tow vehicle 12 VDC feeds, or have multiple solar panels, but DC does not work for many; it only drains their onboard battey(ies). As I said earlier, I’m happy for you that it works for you.

But I am going to make a second request. Kindly don’t selectively quote me because doing so alters the context and allows you to twist the meaning to indicate that I have the same opinion as you, because I don’t. And I also stated that when plugged into 120 VAC, if the refrigerator were on DC and not opened, it would maintain the temperature. I surely hope you do not have anyone opening the refrigerator when driving because you would be breaking the law.

You are entitled to your “running on DC” opinions. I would guess they are based on your experiences; they differ from mine. But I am done here. I am not going to debate you. I am going to run my refrigerator on propane when towing because it works much better than DC FOR ME.
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Old 03-16-2021, 07:01 AM   #122
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Copied from our Escape Manual:

"WHEN REFUELING TOW VEHICLE, SHUT OFF ALL PROPANE GAS APPLIANCES. MOST PROPANE GAS
APPLIANCES ARE VENTED TO THE OUTSIDE. GASOLINE FUMES COULD ENTER THE APPLIANCE AND IGNITE FROM THE BURNER FLAME, CAUSING AN EXPLOSION OR FIRE."

We too, turn off propane and our battery powers the fridge. There have been no battery issues the past 5 years traveling. It's easy enough to turn off/on so it's not even a question I need to ponder.
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Old 03-16-2021, 07:42 AM   #123
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Originally Posted by TTMartin View Post
My old trailer had a single Group 31 battery and no solar towed with my F250 with factory tow package (wiring). I ran my fridge on DC while traveling, always had a full charge when I arrived.

My 2020 Escape 19 dual 6 volt batteries and single solar panel towed with my Sprinter 2500 factory tow package (wiring). I run my fridge on DC while traveling, I always have a full charge when I arrive.

So, I'm not sure why everyone else seems to have an issue with running their fridge on DC. Maybe it's because both my tow vehicle were/are diesels with robust electrical systems. I also remember to switch it over to AC (auto) when I arrive.
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Originally Posted by C&G in FL View Post
I’m happy for you that you can run your refrigerator on 12 vdc. Consider yourself lucky. Even with a #10 AWG feed on my previous tow vehicle and a solar panel (single) my pre-chilled refrigerator would not maintain temperature on DC power. But I can say for certain that I personally, and according to statements posted here by others, we do have issues running our refrigerators on DC. I wish I could and retain the pre-chilled temperature, but I cannot and have never been able to do it. So like many others, I rely on propane while traveling, and like you, switch it to AC if I have shore power where I stop.


Quote:
Originally Posted by C&G in FL View Post
Selective quoting. I said IF I am plugged into 120 VAC and put the refrigerator on DC. What part of DC while driving doesn’t work for me and many others here is it that you cannot seem to comprehend? Yes, I know people who have beefed up their tow vehicle 12 VDC feeds, or have multiple solar panels, but DC does not work for many; it only drains their onboard battey(ies). As I said earlier, I’m happy for you that it works for you.

But I am going to make a second request. Kindly don’t selectively quote me because doing so alters the context and allows you to twist the meaning to indicate that I have the same opinion as you, because I don’t. And I also stated that when plugged into 120 VAC, if the refrigerator were on DC and not opened, it would maintain the temperature. I surely hope you do not have anyone opening the refrigerator when driving because you would be breaking the law.

You are entitled to your “running on DC” opinions. I would guess they are based on your experiences; they differ from mine. But I am done here. I am not going to debate you. I am going to run my refrigerator on propane when towing because it works much better than DC FOR ME.
Yes, my experiences differ from yours.

I said I switched from DC to AC (auto) you said that I said that you used AC shore power too. You got offended when I explained that switching from DC to AC didn't mean I was using shore power, but, going to Auto (propane or shore power).

I already stated my tow vehicles are commercial grade diesels with robust electrical systems. You stated that you ran 10 awg wire in one of your vehicles, and it didn't work for you.

You repeatedly state that it works for me because I'm 'lucky'.

Well, I'm sorry if your experiences were truly representative of the majority of people, they wouldn't sell 3 way RV refrigerators would they?
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Old 03-16-2021, 07:57 AM   #124
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Old 03-16-2021, 08:26 AM   #125
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Originally Posted by P&L View Post
Copied from our Escape Manual:

"WHEN REFUELING TOW VEHICLE, SHUT OFF ALL PROPANE GAS APPLIANCES. MOST PROPANE GAS
APPLIANCES ARE VENTED TO THE OUTSIDE. GASOLINE FUMES COULD ENTER THE APPLIANCE AND IGNITE FROM THE BURNER FLAME, CAUSING AN EXPLOSION OR FIRE."

We too, turn off propane and our battery powers the fridge. There have been no battery issues the past 5 years traveling. It's easy enough to turn off/on so it's not even a question I need to ponder.
This is why I always use the first fuel pump in an island, to keep my propane source away from the fumes..........
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Old 03-16-2021, 09:59 AM   #126
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I can't find my original post on running the Dometic DM2663LBX on 12V, so I'm doing this from memory (which might not be all that a good idea), but I have 2 160 watt rooftop panels & a 9 amp Victron DC to DC controller between a F 150 & a pair of 100 amp hour Battleborn lithium batteries. I used a Victron 712 battery monitor to keep track of the amperage going into & out of the batteries during a 1 hour drive.

The refrigerator drew around 25 amps @ 13.6V. It was a partially cloudy day. The amperage went from as low as 12 amps coming out of the batteries to as high as 8 amps going into the batteries. Over the 1 hour trip the batteries lost 6 amp hours.
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Old 03-16-2021, 10:25 AM   #127
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Okay you convinced me solar panels on a trailer are worthless and my having Escape install one was a complete waste of my money.



I not saying there worthless. I saying you will never get full capacity on a flat mounted roof panel. That's why I have two of them. Have you checked to see if you ever see 190 watts from each panel?
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Old 03-16-2021, 10:40 AM   #128
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This discussion makes me appreciate how much more efficient the compressor refrigerators are. We are getting NovaKool RFU9000 - pretty much the largest one can fit at 9.1 cu ft - and its Amperage listed is 5.2 @12V. With 300+ days of sunshine around where we live, having the solar charger + power through F150 7-pin connector is what we are counting on...
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Old 03-16-2021, 11:08 AM   #129
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I don’t weigh in much on the 20 yr old topic of running fridges on propane vs dc when towing, but I have tried unsuccessfully with multiple TV, trailer, battery, solar setups to run Dometic fridges on DC when towing.

Met the fellow a few years back(believe he lived in S America) that had the compressor fridge installed with ETI two 6V and solar. He was having no issues keeping things good while towing, or camped on-grid or off-grid. Put the current 200ah of Lithium batteries/solar with the compressor fridge and away you go.

Since some of the compressor fridges will fit thru the “classic”door I will go with that if I ever have to swap. So far, no fridge issues in 5.5 years with the stock Dometic and still tow on propane for close to 20 years now.
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Old 03-16-2021, 11:29 AM   #130
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Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
I can't find my original post on running the Dometic DM2663LBX on 12V

Is it any of these?

https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post294710

https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post311947

https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post316621
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Old 03-16-2021, 11:31 AM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TTMartin View Post
Yes, my experiences differ from yours.

I said I switched from DC to AC (auto) you said that I said that you used AC shore power too. You got offended when I explained that switching from DC to AC didn't mean I was using shore power, but, going to Auto (propane or shore power).

I already stated my tow vehicles are commercial grade diesels with robust electrical systems. You stated that you ran 10 awg wire in one of your vehicles, and it didn't work for you.

You repeatedly state that it works for me because I'm 'lucky'.

Well, I'm sorry if your experiences were truly representative of the majority of people, they wouldn't sell 3 way RV refrigerators would they?
Most people here don't have "commercial grade diesels with robust electrical systems." That's why most here can't use DC while running down the road, even though they have the DC option.

The only vehicle we've ever owned (including our 2002 Chevy Diesel) that could run the fridge on DC and charge the battery was our 2003 Honda Odyssey that I setup to run 8 awg wire from the engine compartment to the converter using an Anderson connector.

You're the exception rather than the majority. We wish our 5.0 came without the DC option like our Bigfoot (no DC option, gas/110 only) and most of our other campers as well. We have no problem running down the road with the fridge running on propane. I'm glad DC works for you, but it just doesn't work for many of us here.

Enjoy,

Perry
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Old 03-16-2021, 11:34 AM   #132
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The first link. (https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post294710). The actual post shows a bit poorer performance than my memory suggested.

If one didn't have the 9 amp limit from the truck caused by the DC to DC converter, one might do better, depending on the charge line wiring & voltage. My F 150 charge line is fused at 25 amps, however I've never seen anything close to that before installing the converter. Then again, without the increase in voltage the DC to DC converter produced, maybe not...
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