Something is strange in the Rad bike page as both bikes are stated to put out the same torque and as l look at other bikes with the 750 it appears this is correct.
I was under the mistaken impression that the more watts...the more torque was available...however this does not appear to be the case as both have a max of 80 N.m. or so stated.
Just to further the confusion I also attached the specifications for two Voltbikes...one with the 500, the other with the 750.
Watts is a measure of power, like horsepower. With a rotating shaft (or wheel in this case), power equals the product of torque and speed. Various motors of any potential output power could have the same maximum torque output, but with the higher-power motors able to sustain that torque to higher speeds.
In this case, it's even simpler: it appears that most of the Bafang G06 motors are capable of the same torque and speed, and the power rating is just a difference of how limiting the controller (which feeds power from the battery to the motor) is, and perhaps how much heat the motor can take. The torque produced by a motor depends on the current flowing through it, and motors can typically be pushed to higher current and torque than they are rated for (if the controller can handle that current)... although they'll overheat. The voltage required to run a motor depends on both the current and the speed of the motor, and motors can usually be pushed to higher speed than they are rated for (if the battery voltage is high enough and the controller can handle it)... although they'll overheat if high power is sustained.
The ebike world is not like the automotive world: anyone can claim just about anything they want, with no industry standards or regulations to follow. Pick a number that will market well and be somewhat believable, and stick that on the product...
I transport our two ebikes inside the trailer when we are on the road. I made my own setup and it takes about 15 min to set up or take down each time. It's a bit of hassle but we got the the routine down and I'll live with it before I can find an easier way. Since I have a mini split condenser unit behind my trailer the bike rack behind that is further away from the trailer center of gravity and aerodynamics would reduce stability more on the road. My Ford Ranger is smaller and less powerful than say an F-150 so I want to play a bit safer this way. The ebikes are put on our folding bike rack when we set up camp.
If I don't have the mini split condenser there and tow with a bigger truck I would feel perfectly fine towing the ebikes in the back on some quality bike rack like the 1Up.
We are thinking of doing the same thing. Could you describe how you do this. We are thinking perhaps putting them both in tubs and placing them in the dining area. Do you have the radmini ST. We have an escape trailer. What do you have.
I've built a hub powered 1000W ebike (my wife's), a mid drive torque sensing embike (For my brother) with a aux throttle, and for myself, I opted to go pure torque sensing. I as a life long cyclist, WAY prefer the torque sensing mid drive. it feels like your'e riding a bike, you pedal harder it goes faster. only thing is, I'm outputting maybe 120-150 watts pedaling, and the mid drive is adding 300-500 or even 750 watts, muahahaahahaha. 4X to 8X the pookah, way fun.
my wifes throttle driven 1000W is like riding a motorcycle, it will go 20+ MPH without ANY pedaling, and has enough battery to do that for several hours straight. I discovered early on it testing the setup, her bike, a step through 'comfort' bike gets quite twitchy and unstable above 30MPH so I limited the power so it can't go much over 20 without a lot of pedalling.
I've built a hub powered 1000W ebike (my wife's), a mid drive torque sensing embike (For my brother) with a aux throttle, and for myself, I opted to go pure torque sensing. I as a life long cyclist, WAY prefer the torque sensing mid drive. it feels like your'e riding a bike, you pedal harder it goes faster. only thing is, I'm outputting maybe 120-150 watts pedaling, and the mid drive is adding 300-500 or even 750 watts, muahahaahahaha. 4X to 8X the pookah, way fun.
my wifes throttle driven 1000W is like riding a motorcycle, it will go 20+ MPH without ANY pedaling, and has enough battery to do that for several hours straight. I discovered early on it testing the setup, her bike, a step through 'comfort' bike gets quite twitchy and unstable above 30MPH so I limited the power so it can't go much over 20 without a lot of pedalling.
my mid drive:
I'm thinking of converting my mountain bike to an ebike - did you use the Bafang motor for your conversion?
Bafang stuff is not torque sensing, it just senses if you are pedaling or not, and turns on a fixed amount of juice.
I used a TSDZ2, that I bought from www.eco-ebikes.com (who provides excellent support). I'm actually running open source firmware on it, which required getting a couple special 'flash' USB cables so I can use my laptop to update the firmware. https://github.com/OpenSource-EBike-...SDZ2_wiki/wiki as this firmware has some important-to-me features, like its smoother, can be tuned, and most important works at a higher 'cadence' (the stock TSDZ2 quits 'helping' if you are pedaling at or above 90 full crank turns/minute, which yes is pretty fast but as a life long rider, I can maintain that for at least short distances as long as the effort level is low... This FOSS firmware lets you pedal as fast as 120 FPS which is about as fast as I can anymore.
The TSDZ2 is not without its own issues. If you let it output its fully 750 watts for any extended period of time, the motor inside overheats. if you let that motor get much over 200F inside, it can demagnetize the motor permanently. The FOSS firmware supports a user-added (or eco-ebike added) temperature sensor, at the expense of the optional manual throttle input, and with this temp sensor, it can both display the motor temp, AND auto throttle the power back as you approach preset limits (mine starts to cut the power back at 155F and completely shuts the power off at 185F). The net effect is, I have to watch my engine temp, and if I want to climb the 5-8% 3/4 mile long grade I live on at a reasonable level of power assist, make sure the engine is below 100F at the bottom of the hill so it doesn't get much over 170F at the top with a reasonable level of power assist.
That bike was originally a 3x8 speed, with the TSDZ its a 8 speed, using 42T in front, and 11-32T in back. I can stay in the 11T 8th gear on the flatlands and go as fast as 30 MPH (max power) or 27 MPH (moderate power, but I tend to use the 7th gear and go more like 20 MPH which requires very light pedaling at a healthy cadence. on grades I might be in 3rd or 4th gear pedaling fairly lightly and maintaining 10 MPH up the hill. note I'm a 66 yr old 220 lb out of shape beer lover.
I'm a retired engineer, sorry, I used to live-eat-breathe electronics and software, and I've also done a fair amount of embedded electro-mechanical kinda engineering, so all that stuff I talked about is natural to me. oh and in my youth, I was a serious bicyclist, riding 100+ miles days at least once a week on a high end 'ten speed' in the 70s, and mountain biking in the 80s.
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
Posts: 8,249
Gotta stay at it
Quote:
Originally Posted by HABBERDABBER
AAAhhhhhhhhhh.............the good old, younger days of our days. Poof!
What happened to my 60's?
Burned four tanks of saw gas bucking wood today, put it in the tractor bucket, piled it up and had a blaze that could be seen from outer space. Watched the sunrise and the sunset. Got cleaned up and had a big shot of Makers Mark and a meatloaf with mashed potatoes for dinner. Now watching Jeremiah Johnson and contemplating tomorrow, my 73 birthday. More work to do.
Iowa Dave
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Dave
i put it on my normal trailer bike rack. I remove the battery to decrease the weight -but i only carry one so weight is OK. I bought fat tire tire supports (amazon) which fit my bike rack because the normal ones didn't work for fat tires. i think my rack is a swag.
Trailer: 2013 Escape 21 Classic Number 6, pulled by 2018 Toyota Highlander
Posts: 8,249
Swag
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fox hunt
i put it on my normal trailer bike rack. I remove the battery to decrease the weight -but i only carry one so weight is OK. I bought fat tire tire supports (amazon) which fit my bike rack because the normal ones didn't work for fat tires. i think my rack is a swag.
Hi Kate,
Is it a Swag or is that SWAG? Just Messing with you.
Iowa Dave
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Ain’t no trouble jacking a double Burma Shave
Dave
If you're planning to take your eBike to your next boondocking trip make sure you have enough battery/solar power. I took my recently bought ebike, equipped with a Bosch 625wa battery last month to Alabama Hills and had a lot of fun, but it will tax you system. Mine takes about 200w while charging, up to four hours depending on how depleted the battery is.
RADPower ebikes charger takes only 110 watts (@ 120v). So they're pretty slow charging, but can easily be handled by many inverters.
Here's two pictures of our RADPower folding ebikes. We got the folding models to easily go into the back of our 2018 Toyota Highlander to keep them out of the road grime while traveling. We just put the seat down, fold the handlebar down, and removed the front tire.
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... Greg
2018 Escape 19'er & 2018 Highlander
Not all who wander are lost
We are thinking of doing the same thing. Could you describe how you do this. We are thinking perhaps putting them both in tubs and placing them in the dining area. Do you have the radmini ST. We have an escape trailer. What do you have.
My way is a bit complicated but it works for us, and I have the radmini with the horizontal bar, not the step trough (ST).
My two ebikes are placed in the kitchen area side by side with the handle bars folded down and bike front facing the dinette area. The two front and back wheel pairs each sit on a piece of 1"x6" board placed crosswise between the kitchen/stove and fridge/wardrobe sides. Two pairs of very large metal hinges are screwed down backward on each board by the edge positions of each tire so when the moving half of the two hinges are flipped up they stop at the parallel vertical position to form a U channel and hold the tire between them firmly. These two boards are connected in the middle by a third board (1"x3") to hold the two cross boards centered below the tires (front and back) and the view of the three boards from above form an I beam shape (if it helps visualize the picture). This holds the tires from left-right movement.
A ratcheting strap is hooked through the two front wheel axles and loops around the bottom of my Lagoon table post to get an anchor point. It then comes back and is wrapped around the two bikes’ triangle resting stands and then goes further back and anchors on a D ring anchor which is screwed in the middle of a piece 2”x6” and the 2x6 serves as the counter anchor position resting on the floor against the kitchen sink cabinet corner on one end and the two drawer stack corner on the other. When the strap is pulled tight the bikes stand on their own. All contact areas between the boards and cabinet and floor are cushioned with floor mat material or foam pads.
I also made two spacer bars and place them between the bikes’ horizontal bars one toward each end to keep the bikes top distance equal at the handle bars and the seat posts and use two bungee cords to wrap around them tight to hold the top section together. To add a bit more stability and cushioning I use 4 7-9” diameter exercise balls and squeeze 2 between the rear axle areas and the cabinets and the other two between the front suspension forks and the cabinets.
With this setup we have driven over 10k miles on our trips with the longest all the way to Yukon Canada and never had a problem. As I said it’s a bit complicated but the reason I did it this way is because I am really averse to drilling holes in my trailer but so far it has worked well for us.
Trailer: 2015 Escape 19' (sold), Escape 5.0 as of August 2019 (sold)
Posts: 664
Just joining this thread. We are seriously considering getting one (perhaps two) Radrunner ebikes. I know I can put at least one on our bike rack. Has anyone put two on a bike rack? Even with removing the batteries the two bikes plus rack are at the 150lb limit.
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