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Old 02-16-2017, 09:47 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Sounds like someone turned the electric on before filling the hot water tank?....
That would result in a burned out element, not a module.
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Old 02-16-2017, 10:55 AM   #42
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We leave the water pump on all the time while camped off grid. Why turn it off?
I've been thinking of your question, Jim. Except when away from the trailer, I can't think of a good reason for always turning the water pump off; but we do.

I'm glad to hear a double step can be put on the Escape by LHC. Is it the same size as the one he installs on the Casitas?

When we bought our Casita, we had LHC immediately install about $2000 of mods. Fortunately most of the mods are already on the Escape as standard equipment.
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Old 02-16-2017, 12:24 PM   #43
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Some people have found that their trailers were flooded while gone for a number of reasons including leaks and pets.

If the water heater on electric is kept off usually, it is much less likely to be on before filling the hot water tank. A number of people here have had that happen. We were lucky in the beginning because we didn't know about it.
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Old 02-16-2017, 01:47 PM   #44
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No different than your home, it is easy to maintain the water system to have no leaks. I did have a wee leak in bath tap in a previous trailer, and it was obvious by the pump "grunting" while it was on, which was a good warning that I needed to fix it, and I did.
Jim, true but most houses don't have a switch that lowers your risk with a simple flip.
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Old 02-16-2017, 01:50 PM   #45
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When we bought our Casita, we had LHC immediately install about $2000 of mods. Fortunately most of the mods are already on the Escape as standard equipment.
My thoughts exactly. I was going to be really surprised if I heard anything significant was being done to an Escape by LHC.
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Old 02-16-2017, 02:18 PM   #46
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Jim, true but most houses don't have a switch that lowers your risk with a simple flip.
Unless you are on a well system, they you turn the well off when traveling.
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Old 02-16-2017, 03:10 PM   #47
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Unless you are on a well system, they you turn the well off when traveling.
I knew someone was going to come back with that!
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Old 02-16-2017, 03:20 PM   #48
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I knew someone was going to come back with that!
I did not want to disappoint you......
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Old 02-16-2017, 03:33 PM   #49
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What's the DSI FLT light for?
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Old 02-16-2017, 03:37 PM   #50
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Direct spark ignition fault light, in case your propane water heater fails to light, then that light glows.
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Old 02-16-2017, 03:38 PM   #51
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What's the DSI FLT light for?
Direct Spark Ignition Fault for hot water heater - locks out after so many tries to light
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Old 02-16-2017, 10:09 PM   #52
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Direct Spark Ignition Fault for hot water heater - locks out after so many tries to light


So far. So good. Propane water heater has worked just fine.

I would like to add a switch on the wall for turning on the water heater on electric mode without running outside or at the controller. Has anyone done this on the Escape?
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Old 02-16-2017, 10:33 PM   #53
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So far. So good. Propane water heater has worked just fine.

I would like to add a switch on the wall for turning on the water heater on electric mode without running outside or at the controller. Has anyone done this on the Escape?
You mean something like this? I'm working on it. Just need to run a wire from the existing panel to the hot water heater. My problem is that I have to remove the fridge to be able to do it.

It would be much easier to just add a switch at the end of the bed - the hot water heater is right there but I like to be as neat with my mods as possible.
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Old 02-17-2017, 12:04 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by richardr View Post
I've been thinking of your question, Jim. Except when away from the trailer, I can't think of a good reason for always turning the water pump off; but we do.

I'm glad to hear a double step can be put on the Escape by LHC. Is it the same size as the one he installs on the Casitas?

When we bought our Casita, we had LHC immediately install about $2000 of mods. Fortunately most of the mods are already on the Escape as standard equipment.
We also only turn pump on if we are going to use it . Off when we leave trailer and when we go to bed . Pat
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Old 02-17-2017, 12:53 AM   #55
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My thoughts exactly. I was going to be really surprised if I heard anything significant was being done to an Escape by LHC.
Well, if enough Escapes stop by he might carry more items that would work with Escapes..
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Old 02-17-2017, 06:19 AM   #56
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That would result in a burned out element, not a module.
Oh, I didn't realize CPAHarley was referring to me! No, not a result of turning on electric with no water in the tank - the electric side worked fine. It was definitely a bad modual from the manufacturer. It would light on gas and run for exactly 6 seconds then shut off, relight, run for 6 seconds, etc. LOL! I know better than to try to run the electric heater function with no water in the tank, that's why part of our checklist before breaking camp when hooked up to 30 amp is to kill the breaker for the water heater. 😀 The mistake we made in this case was not checking the gas function during orientation and trying to use it for the first time while already established in a dry camping environment. Cold showers suck!
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Old 02-17-2017, 06:24 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by Red Dog View Post
So far. So good. Propane water heater has worked just fine.

I would like to add a switch on the wall for turning on the water heater on electric mode without running outside or at the controller. Has anyone done this on the Escape?
While not as convenient as a switch, instead of going outside, we flip the water heater breaker to off.
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Old 02-17-2017, 08:26 AM   #58
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I would like to add a switch on the wall for turning on the water heater Has anyone done this?
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...itch-1165.html

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f9...rned-1576.html
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Old 02-17-2017, 02:44 PM   #59
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Direct Spark Ignition Fault for hot water heater - locks out after so many tries to light
We have really drifted this thread off course, but for those that might want more information the Suburban water heater will try to light 3 times. After that it will lock out and the light will stay on (on older Escapes it would be the large light with "RESET" underneath; on newer Escapes that have the water heater switch integrated on the tank/battery status panel the "DSI FLT" bulb should light). To reset the system just wait a little bit (Suburban says 5 seconds, Escape manual says 3 minutes?) and toggle the switch. This will reset the ignition cycle. If you have air in the line it may take several ignition cycles to light the water heater. This is why I have seen it recommended to light the stove first for a bit if you have replaced a tank or feel there may be air in the line. If hot water heater fails to light after several ignition cycles you typically want to check your propane source and make sure the electric temperature hi-limit cut out isn't tripped on the water heater. The water heaters are set to produce 130F water (non-adjustable) and the hi-limit cut out only trips if something fails and water is able to get above 180F so this should be a rare issue.
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Old 02-18-2017, 12:15 AM   #60
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You mean something like this? I'm working on it. Just need to run a wire from the existing panel to the hot water heater. My problem is that I have to remove the fridge to be able to do it.

It would be much easier to just add a switch at the end of the bed - the hot water heater is right there but I like to be as neat with my mods as possible.


That would be perfect! But, remove the fridge? Man, there has to be a better way!
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