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Old 02-18-2017, 12:41 AM   #61
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Why not just switch it on when you are setting up and chocking the wheel on that side?
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Old 02-18-2017, 06:21 AM   #62
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It would be much easier to just add a switch at the end of the bed - the hot water heater is right there but I like to be as neat with my mods as possible.
Or get Escape to run the wire during the build like I did. That way it is their if I decide to switch via a new control panel.

Mind you, there are a couple things I might want to pull the fridge for anyway, a remote solar panel beside the control panel, and a bit of other cabling I am considering doing. Pulling the fridge is not a very tough thing to do anyway.
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Old 02-18-2017, 07:44 AM   #63
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Or get Escape to run the wire during the build like I did. That way it is their if I decide to switch via a new control panel.

Mind you, there are a couple things I might want to pull the fridge for anyway, a remote solar panel beside the control panel, and a bit of other cabling I am considering doing. Pulling the fridge is not a very tough thing to do anyway.
Great idea! Wish I'd have thought of that prior to build sheet submission!
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Old 02-18-2017, 07:54 AM   #64
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Why not just switch it on when you are setting up and chocking the wheel on that side?
That would work too. Gotta be careful though if you have recently drained the water tank for winterization or to check the anode. Just takes seconds to fry that electric heating element with an empty tanK. Sequence would have to be, chocks, hook up water, turn on water heater, hook up electric. For us, I usually get the electric going first after chocks to make sure it works before unhooking, hooking up water etc and so we can start getting the inside cooled down so our habit is to have the breaker off for the water heater until all else is done. I think the key is, whatever works for each camper's routine is what is best.
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Old 02-18-2017, 08:32 AM   #65
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IMHO the electric mode of the water heater is very easy to deal with. When I winterize and the water heater is also drained, I shut off both the switch on the water heater and its circuit breaker. In spring, when I dewinterize and prepare for our first trip with a thorough water system sanitation, the water heater then gets filled and I turn turn the circuit breaker and switch on the water heater back on. During the camping season our water heater stays full of water.

We mostly camp with no electric, and in those instances the electric on the water heater switch is on but irrelevant. If we are at a place with electric, when I plug in the trailer, the electric element starts heating the water. If I am plugged in at home getting ready for a trip, I turn off the water heater's switch and then turn it back on when we leave. It seem pretty effortless to me. I must be missing something?
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Old 02-18-2017, 09:07 AM   #66
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I must be missing something?
Our trailer stays plugged in just about all the time when at home, to maintain batteries, heat if needed, and to turn on the fridge a day or so before we go. If the water heater is on, it will continue to run the whole time, and they are not all that well insulated, so a lot of electricity will be consumed.

That's my story, and I'm stickin' to it.

And yeah, this is not the proper place to discuss just what it is that you are missing, Eric.
But, as long as it is not beer, all is good.
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Old 02-18-2017, 09:09 AM   #67
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..... to maintain batteries:
Just thinking. I am planning to put four 60W solar panels on the roof. That should maintain batteries quite well.
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Old 02-18-2017, 09:20 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post
Our trailer stays plugged in just about all the time when at home, to maintain batteries, heat if needed, and to turn on the fridge a day or so before we go. If the water heater is on, it will continue to run the whole time, and they are not all that well insulated, so a lot of electricity will be consumed.

That's my story, and I'm stickin' to it.

And yeah, this is not the proper place to discuss just what it is that you are missing, Eric.
But, as long as it is not beer, all is good.
So... that switch on the water heater outside is too tough for you, eh? Must be the weight of lifting that heavy access door....
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Old 02-18-2017, 09:22 AM   #69
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So... that switch on the water heater outside is too tough for you, eh?
That, but more that it is too easy to forget. C'mon, you should know better than me about that aging thing.
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Old 02-18-2017, 09:24 AM   #70
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That, but more that it is too easy to forget. C'mon, you should know better than me about that aging thing.
Your memory gets better when you are inside the trailer than outside? And now I forgot what we were talking about - -scissor jacks?
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Old 02-18-2017, 09:36 AM   #71
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Or get Escape to run the wire during the build like I did. That way it is their if I decide to switch via a new control panel.
I asked and was told NO. Anything I asked, I was told no - after several requests for what I deemed simple mods and told no, I gave up and decided I would take care of them myself.

I figured out later that if you want something done, you have to go to Chilliwack and ask - otherwise, forget it.
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Old 02-18-2017, 09:45 AM   #72
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Your memory gets better when you are inside the trailer than outside?
It is that little light that is a reminder. I love the convenience, and hated replacing a burned out element.
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Old 02-18-2017, 09:54 AM   #73
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I asked and was told NO. Anything I asked, I was told no - after several requests for what I deemed simple mods and told no, I gave up and decided I would take care of them myself.

I figured out later that if you want something done, you have to go to Chilliwack and ask - otherwise, forget it.
Escape runs wire drops all the time, or installs supplied cables too, all for a price of course.

I did hear a few "No" a few times on other requests though.
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Old 02-18-2017, 10:29 AM   #74
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I asked and was told NO. Anything I asked, I was told no - after several requests for what I deemed simple mods and told no, I gave up and decided I would take care of them myself.

Tom, maybe you didn't ask the right question.

I know ETI is willing to run low voltage/cat wire from the battery/converter area for those who want a power monitor. What if you got a relay like Jim used for his toe kick heater? Put the relay into the 120V supply to the water heater and switch it from the gauge panel. If the relay can meet the current needs of this 1500W heater it could easily accommodate the lesser current needs of the water heater.

Would the fact that the relay is actuated for long periods of time pose a problem? I wouldn't think so, but I'm not an engineer.

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Old 02-18-2017, 12:27 PM   #75
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I'm under the impression they will run 12v wires, with the included light cost and switch but 120v nada.
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Old 02-18-2017, 01:58 PM   #76
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Tom, maybe you didn't ask the right question.

Would the fact that the relay is actuated for long periods of time pose a problem? I wouldn't think so, but I'm not an engineer.

Rich
At the time my build sheet was being finished, Escape was in over their heads with orders and trying to finish the expansion. I did ask for a 18 GA DC wire to be run and was told no. I don't blame them for trying to limit requests - if you emailed or called for changes, the standard answer was no. It might have been confusion on the request - Laura asked for both sides of her cushions to be covered, sent the extra material, and got the extra sent back to her without both sides covered. So there was some things going on during this time that is not typical for the way Escape does things.

By the way, I have several engineering degrees, one of which is electrical engineering. Suburban has a model DEL that includes a relay - I planned to use the relay from Suburban for the mod.
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Old 02-18-2017, 03:50 PM   #77
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We had 4 different 12 volt wires run by ETI to be used later and they charged us $25 each. Our camper was finished last week.
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Old 02-18-2017, 03:52 PM   #78
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I'm under the impression they will run 12v wires, with the included light cost and switch but 120v nada.
I had a 2c#14 cable ran for my heater, but not terminated on either end.
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Old 02-18-2017, 04:46 PM   #79
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What I meant was they ran the wire, but did not hook up the light, but the wire was switched if you wanted with additional cost or unswitched at no additional cost. the light was loose in a drawer in both scenarios.
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Old 02-18-2017, 05:15 PM   #80
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Just a funny - somehow ETI hooked up one of my 12V drop wires to my trailer marker lights.

That was fun to figure out since it was under the bed in my 21.....
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