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Old 03-28-2019, 02:07 PM   #101
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Originally Posted by BobG View Post
I understand why air suspension and WD hitches are incompatible.
But they're not - air suspension is only an issue with inadequate WD adjustment methods. Air suspension can keep ride height constant, which is certainly not a problem for WD operation, but front axle air suspension keeping that ride height constant means that a scale is needed for WD operation, instead of using ride height to indicate the change in front axle load. Even with rear-only automatically-adjusting air suspension (or other automatically adjusting suspension systems), adjustment can take an extra round of adjust-and-check.
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Old 03-28-2019, 02:13 PM   #102
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Top tier tires, not China bombs.

Let it go. Some people, a decade ago, had problems with cheap Chinese made tires ( imported by an American company, BTW ).
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Old 03-28-2019, 02:14 PM   #103
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Brian has covered this quite well, but here is my two cents:

A weight distribution hitch should be used when you need to redistribute weight from the rear axle of your tow vehicle to the front axle. That's what it's for. Some WDHs have inherent anti-sway capabilities (such as the friction system on my Andersen Hitch) but the anti-sway isn't directly related to the redistribution of weight on the tow. If your tongue weight is too low without a WDH, it's still too low with one.

The best way to prevent trailer sway is to make sure your tongue weight is adequate (actually measure it), and to slow down. My tongue weight is just under 14% of my trailer weight, and I have never had a smidgen of sway, even at 70 mph (although I'm usually slower) on I-40 in New Mexico with high crosswinds while passing Semis.
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Old 03-28-2019, 02:16 PM   #104
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X2

Uncontrolled sway has long been considered the main source for TV & TT combinations. The Equal-i-zer is a good WDH anti sway hitch, even better is the Reese Straight Line. Best is the Hensley Anti Sway hitch but the price is stout in the $2,500 range.

One of the way to protect and react to sway is constant watching side view mirrors to see how it's pulling. Safe speeds (60-65) Monitor winds and know when it's time to pull over and wait them out. Top tier tires, not China bombs. Monitor tire pressures manually or with a good TPMS unit.

Here's a good read:

How to Avoid Trailer Sway and a Possible Accident - RV Life


Or, correct tongue weight. Which you know is correct because you measured it. With a scale.
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Old 03-28-2019, 02:33 PM   #105
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While I wouldn't want to criticize the RV Life people who support this forum, they require no more qualifications or research of their authors than forums like this require of members to post. This author in particular is spectacularly unqualified to comment on any technical subject, as proven over several articles. The content of this article is whatever she found in a quick search, regurgitated without any understanding; that's how she ended up with the silly 50% rule. You would learn more by just doing a web search for "trailer sway".
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Old 03-28-2019, 02:42 PM   #106
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While I wouldn't want to criticize the RV Life people who support this forum, they require no more qualifications or research of their authors than forums like this require of members to post.

I don't click on RV Life articles any more. The few articles that I read appeared to regurgitate misinformation posted on this forum and others.
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Old 03-28-2019, 02:57 PM   #107
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Let it go. Some people, a decade ago, had problems with cheap Chinese made tires ( imported by an American company, BTW ).
A decade ago? How about two years ago - that's when Goodyear decided to replace the Marathon with the Endurance.

https://corporate.goodyear.com/en-US...iler_tire.html

Goodyear wised up (after the law suits began piling up), but there are still a lot of other manufacturers making china bombs. Look at the tires you have on your trailer and chances are they are made in China.
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Old 03-28-2019, 03:05 PM   #108
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Thanks to the original poster for alerting us to this experience. It seems that your reactions were as good as could be expected in this extreme event.

I can't really see how the hitch was the problem. The part of the hitch attached to the vehicle looks like it stayed rigid, though there could be damage. The coupler looks like it was twisted in a way that is consistent with the trailer rolling onto its left side until the coupler was pried off of the ball. The chains stayed connected. Don't know about the breakaway switch or if the event involved tire failure to begin with.

A weight distributing hitch is used in the case of excessive tongue weight. All the discussion in this thread is about possibly too little tongue weight.
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Old 03-28-2019, 03:08 PM   #109
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
Let it go. Some people, a decade ago, had problems with cheap Chinese made tires ( imported by an American company, BTW ).
Like you said......a decade ago........lets talk current tires.
Check other RV forums of what people have had come on their trailers. Many had China bombs. Lesser quality tires that manufacturers were putting on their products to save money. Infamous for low tire life, complete failure causing a safety hazard, many suffered extensive damage to trailers because of it. Not worth the risk.
Sailuns are the Chinese exception. They're made in a area of China known for quality workmanship. Maxxis is another excellent US made tire. For now though those who pull longer, heavier trailers the Goodyear Endurance, a US made tire is getting great reviews.
Of course some people won't have good service from any tire they have. Correct air pressure and speed is the key.
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Old 03-28-2019, 03:18 PM   #110
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The content of this article is whatever she found in a quick search, regurgitated without any understanding; that's how she ended up with the silly 50% rule.
Not only silly, but patently false. By this calculation I'd barely be able to tow my loaded 19 with my F150 SuperCrew, and I "might have an accident". Utter nonsense.

The numbers to be concerned about are the same ones that have been covered extensively on this forum - GVWR for both vehicles, GCWR, Towing Capacity, Payload Capacity, Tongue Weight, etc.
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Old 03-28-2019, 03:31 PM   #111
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Originally Posted by Ret.LEO View Post
Like you said......a decade ago........lets talk current tires.
Check other RV forums of what people have had come on their trailers. Many had China bombs. Lesser quality tires that manufacturers were putting on their products to save money. Infamous for low tire life, complete failure causing a safety hazard, many suffered extensive damage to trailers because of it. Not worth the risk.
Sailuns are the Chinese exception. They're made in a area of China known for quality workmanship. Maxxis is another excellent US made tire. For now though those who pull longer, heavier trailers the Goodyear Endurance, a US made tire is getting great reviews.
Of course some people won't have good service from any tire they have. Correct air pressure and speed is the key.
I agree that Maxxis are good tires but most Maxxis ST tires are made in Thailand not the USA.

The problem with "china bombs" wasn't where they were made so much as they were made in china because they were trying to make a tire as cheap as possible. When you run even average tires at the edge of their weight capacity and throw in some under inflation you have a recipe for a problem.

I think a D rated tire on an Escape trailer has a descent amount of reserve capacity which I suspect is why we don't hear of too many tire issues here. The previous Carlyle ST supplied by ETI where also a decent tire.
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Old 03-28-2019, 03:34 PM   #112
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If nothing else, I hope this thread reminded members here not to get complacent with weight, distribution, tire inflation, trailer break operation etc. I suspect because the trailers tow so well it is easy to forget that the other stuff matters.
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Old 03-28-2019, 07:32 PM   #113
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Someone that has the E2 can you do me a favor please. Our Escape came with a custom made aluminum storage box on the front, I know there are some bars on the E2 that attached to the trailer frame, what I want to know is how far back are those bars mounted from the trailer tongue? Pretty sure to do this I'm going to have to cut slots in the bottom of this box so trying to figure out about where those will be.
Steve: I don’t have an E2, but I have been doing some research. I also have constraints on the tongue. The E2 FastWay should have the brackets mounted 27-30” back from the center of coupler. At tleast for the two models that would most likely apply.

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...2-00-0450.html
https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...2-00-0600.html
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Old 03-28-2019, 08:27 PM   #114
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Steve: I don’t have an E2, but I have been doing some research. I also have constraints on the tongue. The E2 FastWay should have the brackets mounted 27-30” back from the center of coupler. At tleast for the two models that would most likely apply.



https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...2-00-0450.html

https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...2-00-0600.html

I just measured our E2 on our 19 and the brackets are 30” from center of bracket to center of ball.

IMG_0751.jpg
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Old 03-28-2019, 09:45 PM   #115
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government made the damn highway you drive on
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Old 03-28-2019, 09:52 PM   #116
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Quote:
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government made the damn highway you drive on

Hi there Charles, and welcome to the forum. I see this is your first post.

I’d like to make a motion to the community to nominate this post as Most Enigmatic Introduction Ever. Because I honestly do not understand it in the context of this thread.

I look forward to hearing more from you, Charles.
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Old 03-28-2019, 11:17 PM   #117
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Originally Posted by sclifrickson View Post
Hi there Charles, and welcome to the forum. I see this is your first post.

I’d like to make a motion to the community to nominate this post as Most Enigmatic Introduction Ever. Because I honestly do not understand it in the context of this thread.
I'll second that!
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Old 03-28-2019, 11:36 PM   #118
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Originally Posted by sclifrickson View Post
Hi there Charles, and welcome to the forum. I see this is your first post.

I’d like to make a motion to the community to nominate this post as Most Enigmatic Introduction Ever. Because I honestly do not understand it in the context of this thread.

I look forward to hearing more from you, Charles.

Charles has been a member of the forum since 2017 and has had the opportunity to read many posts that suggest that government is only there to get in the way.
He was simply pointing out that you'd have no roads to tow your RVs down without government. At least, that's my interpretation.
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Old 03-29-2019, 10:13 AM   #119
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
I think that's just nonsense. The vast majority of heavy trucks (tractor-trailer rigs) have air suspension. This may have been based on some sort of reasonable logic, but without context (no original article source) there's no way to know what led to this odd conclusion.
Heavy trucks do not use air suspension in combination with WDHs.

An air suspension will lift the back end of a light truck or SUV and impair the ability of the WDH to transfer load to the front axle. And depending upon how it was designed and how it is set up, it might start trying to re-level the vehicle in the midst of an unhappy event.

Air bags are generally used to support a load, not transfer it longitudinally.

One of the Airstream fora has several threads, dating back years, debating this issue and discussing the various methods of combining WDHs and adjustable air suspensions. One camp suggests shutting off the self-leveling feature and using a WDH as usual. A contingent of VW Toureg owners had gone the other way and relies on the air suspension and stability control system entirely, and tows Airstreams much larger and heavier than Escapes. While out walking the neighborhood last night, I noticed that the older Touregs have a short rear overhang, which will also help raise the speed at which sway becomes likely. Hitch weight matters too, of course. Even with the short lever between ball and axle, at some point the front end will get light.

Another interesting point raised there: The Reece Dual Cam anti-sway design was developed and brought to market decades ago - when many towed with the huge family cars of the era. Those vehicles were, by modern standards, often softly sprung. The Reese "DC" exploited this by using the "sag" in the rear end to load the trunnion bars heavily which made the "cams" more effective.

Another poster on one of the Airstream threads did the math and pointed out that the Reece Dual Cam is mostly a friction based system, albeit one that benefits from increased friction as the trailer gets out of line and provides an incentive to re-center and stay centered. Reece warns users of their hitches to never grease the cams.
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Old 03-29-2019, 10:54 AM   #120
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On our E21 with E2- From center of bracket to center of ball is ~29".
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