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Old 02-22-2019, 07:24 PM   #21
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Is ETI connecting the Zamp (SAE) port to the on board controller or just leaving pig tails?
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Old 02-22-2019, 07:32 PM   #22
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Connecting both the rooftop and the portable to the on-board controller lets them work together and saves messing with the batteries. If you want to hookup directly then don't bother with the Zamp port.

Is this picture the same as your portables?

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Old 02-22-2019, 07:32 PM   #23
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They are connecting it to the onboard controller is my understanding. They suggested that I just clip on to the battery terminals if I use the Renogy with controller. It appears that I ordered a panel with a controller when I should have ordered one w/o controller so that I could use the Zamp port. My first foray into solar and there are certainly gaps in my understanding. I do appreciate your help.
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Old 02-22-2019, 07:42 PM   #24
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I suppose seeing if you can trade in the one with a controller for one without would be the simplest fix, however bypassing the controller isn't hard to do if you can manage to do a couple wiring changes.
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Old 02-22-2019, 07:44 PM   #25
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I just want to use the Zamp port. That is not exactly what my panel looks like but close. My panel has two wires coming from each panel. Your photo shows just one coming from the right panel if that makes sense?
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Old 02-22-2019, 07:46 PM   #26
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Yeah, I ordered the wrong panel but I am comfortable doing wiring and I had thought about trying to bypass the controller rather than hassle wit returns and exchanges.
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Old 02-22-2019, 08:01 PM   #27
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How about this one? Looks like the cables are single conductor as opposed to 2 conductor on the 1st one I posted.

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Old 02-22-2019, 08:19 PM   #28
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yes, this is what I have. It appears as though a bypass of the controller would be fairly easy.
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Old 02-22-2019, 08:23 PM   #29
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Agree, pull the 4 wires on the bottom of the controller, connect the 2 on the left to the 2 on the right, won't even have to mess with putting on new mc4's. DO VERIFY POLARITY
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Old 02-22-2019, 08:30 PM   #30
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I bet that will work. Thanks for helping me work through this. And yes, I will verify polarity.
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Old 02-23-2019, 09:14 AM   #31
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Remember, the general rule is to place a solar controller within 3 feet of the batteries and use thick gauge wire. Do not use controllers on the panel and then connect using the 14 gauge wire the manufacturer provided. Add times 25 feet and do not expect to get your batteries charged quickly.

Also you need to evaluate the adaquacy of that controller attached to the panel. It seems the trend has been to add a display of some sort to a really cheap controller, it looks good. Does it perform as it should? Maybe, but you need to do some tweaking.
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Old 02-27-2019, 05:23 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdColorado View Post
"Bottom line: one should not wire two controllers inline on the same circuit."

Just curious, but why is that.

I have a Renogy Suitcase and ETI wired my Zamp port to the in-house solar controller that was part of the basic solar package. Will I damage something if I simply plug the Renogy with its controller into the Zamp port with its controller?
I'm no expert either but I think your better off to use the Renogy panel with its own controller and wire it direct to the batteries (through an appropriate fuse, max of 30 A for a 10 ga wire, but you can size it much lower to match the max output of the controller).

I've owned a Renogy panel and controller and thought they were good quality. I don't know about the brand Escape is using but I assume its also good quality.

The two panels will likely have different electrical characteristics, the controller has to match the electrical output from the panel to what the battery will accept to maximize the transfer of energy.

It probably won't be as efficient if two panels made by two different manufacturers are connected together and managed by one controller. The difference will probably not be large on two small panels.
On the other hand with only two small panels maybe its best to squeeze as much as you can out of them.

Two controllers charging one battery bank will get along fine.
You will also have some redundancy should a panel or controller die.

good luck, Bob
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Old 02-27-2019, 07:09 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Lanark Camper View Post
...The two panels will likely have different electrical characteristics, the controller has to match the electrical output from the panel to what the battery will accept to maximize the transfer of energy.

It probably won't be as efficient if two panels made by two different manufacturers are connected together and managed by one controller.b
Unless one of the controllers is the MPPT (maximum power point tracking) type, I don't think it matters, because until a controller starts restricting panel output, both panels are just connected in parallel to the battery, and operating at battery voltage. Once a controller starts restricting panel output (PWM duty cycle less than 100%), you're deliberately not using the full output of the panel(s), so it doesn't matter if you're using either panel as effectively as possible.

Since the point at which a non-MPPT panel starts restricting panel output is dependent on the state of the battery, not the operation of the panel, it doesn't matter what panel or combination of panels is connected to the controller.

If using MPPT controllers (not available from Escape or packaged with portable panel kits), then yes - panels with different characteristics or different solar exposure should each have their own controller.

Of course, the nominal voltages of any panels connected in parallel need to be compatible (suitable for a "12 volt" battery).
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Old 02-27-2019, 08:02 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Timbo1 View Post
Yeah, I ordered the wrong panel but I am comfortable doing wiring and I had thought about trying to bypass the controller rather than hassle wit returns and exchanges.
That's why it is a good idea to call the 800# instead of point/click an order. One thing about Renogy though is their extension cables are wonky IMO as they are heavy gauge wire that want to curly cue. Had to return mine and eat the restock fee. Better to get some made; bought mine at Q-site and very happy, great price too.
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Old 02-28-2019, 10:30 AM   #35
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Hi All,

Sorry if this has been covered previously but tried searching and cannot find any relevant threads. I am being asked by ETI whether I want the port wired via the controller or not. Can you help me decide please.

My understanding is that the ETI solar panel will use 9amps of the controller's 30A capacity so I am assuming that if we decide we want to add another say 100w then I just go buy a suitable panel. and plug it in. This seems on the face of it to be the easiest option. However, is there more benefit to be gained by having the Zamp wired to the batteries direct and using a remote panel with it's own controller??

Thanks
John
instead of buying ETI's controller and roof panel set up I bought a ZAMP port, they wired it to the batteries, I bought the big ZAMP double-panel suitcase device, and all's well.

I would have liked to have a roof top panel as well to be trickling the batteries all the time while the 17B is parked in my driveway but gotta keep it covered. So I keep it hooked up to wall current when parked at home and just go with the portable Zamp alone when boondocking.
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