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Old 02-23-2017, 08:55 PM   #1
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Table Size for U-shaped Dinette

We have almost finished our build sheet for our 5.0TA. We are planning to get the U-shaped dinette with a Springfield pedestal and a counter extension at the forward end of each bench.

What we are still thinking about is the size of the table. Most of the time it will just be the two of us, and we like the idea of a comfortable lounging area, But we also want to be able to seat four people for a meal of game of cards. We also want to be able to convert it to a bed for trips with our grandchildren.

The standard size table with the U-shaped dinette in a 5.0TA is 34.5 inches side-to-side, and 30 inches front-to-back. I have seen several people on this forum choose or convert to smaller tables.

If you have a smaller table in this situation, could you tell us what size you picked, comment on how it works for you, and how well you think it would meet our requirements?

Thanks for any advice or recommendations.
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Old 02-23-2017, 09:05 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by gmchamplin View Post
We also want to be able to convert it to a bed for trips with our grandchildren.
I have the U shape dinette in our 21' and am curious. If you install a smaller table with the Springfield, how do you convert it to a bed?

If smaller in width, the table wouldn't extend all the way across to the sides of the seats. If shorter lengthwise, I guess you could use a filler board to make up the difference but the table would have to be offset to be able to do that. Oh, I guess you could center it and use two filler boards front and back.

What kind of smaller table are you considering?
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Old 02-23-2017, 09:26 PM   #3
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I still haven't figured out exactly what I will do, but I am going to have a table that can be made smaller, either with removable leafs, or preferably sides that fold in making it half size in one direction. I to want to be able to have the table full size for most uses.
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Old 02-23-2017, 10:05 PM   #4
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The table being smaller is nice. I saw a 21' U shape at the Bluebonnet rally this year that the owner had taken a tree section, cut it to table size with the bark still on the edges, and stained/varnished it. It was to be honest one of the most beautiful tables I have seen in a RV. But there was no way he could have made it into a bed - his U shape was a permanent dinette.

What I have done so far is the one others have done which is to install the Dicor table slide. It doesn't make the table any smaller but I can now move it any direction I want. That is not a great solution but it does seem to work for us for now.

The other idea was to have a set of filler boards that could be stored and put in place for making a bed with the smaller Springfield table lowered just below the boards. Filler boards in place for bed - filler boards removed and table raised for dinette. Using 15" wide 15 mm baltic birch for the filler boards, they would be strong enough to support and small enough to be storable.

I would love to hear other ideas - that's all I could come up with.
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Old 02-24-2017, 02:37 AM   #5
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I'm also thinking about this - a small table would be nice but I would also like to convert to a bed when needed and seat several people from time to time
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Old 02-24-2017, 06:23 AM   #6
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The other idea was to have a set of filler boards that could be stored and put in place for making a bed with the smaller Springfield table lowered just below the boards. Filler boards in place for bed - filler boards removed and table raised for dinette. Using 15" wide 15 mm baltic birch for the filler boards, they would be strong enough to support and small enough to be storable.

I would love to hear other ideas - that's all I could come up with.
Humm, I'm visualizing this. In this configuration, wouldn't the table be in the way if/when someone needs to get out of bed in the middle of the night? A PITA to crawl over?
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Old 02-24-2017, 06:51 AM   #7
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We just went through this, the table was the regular size that escape puts in, we installed the Springfield pedestal - and love it - before getting the table cut we put a piece of tape the size we thought would work for us and used it for a week or so. We cut it to 20" - there are only two of us, but we have had two other friends in since getting the table cut and played a board game and it worked out great. We also made sure there was enough room for 4 people to eat as my daughter and grandson will be sepending some time with us.
As for making it into a bed, we have a filler board that makes up the difference, we slid that behind the back wall cushion - we probably wouldn't have it with us on a regular basis.
We are currently using one of the side back cushions when we set it up as a lounge area and got a small piece of foam to fill in the gap(5").
Although the table is 20" the side back cushion is only 18" and it seems to work fine - rather than carrying a full cushion and have to store it.
We really find the ability to put the table up and down in literally seconds and use the area as a large coach in the evenings has been a real game changer for us....we are in it for 4 months during the winter.
It's like having the best of both worlds all in one.
I think it really depends on what you will use the table for, 20" is working great for us.
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Old 02-24-2017, 07:10 AM   #8
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If you install a smaller table with the Springfield, how do you convert it to a bed?
We have the regular-sized table, and we also had Escape make us a 18" wide table with the same Formica and edges that is on the large table. That table has the table runners in the front-to-back position. Since the Springfield can swivel 360 degrees, it only needs to move back to the edge of the back bench. So when lowered, we have the regular rear dinette width, plus the 18" table width. Escape also cut us a 12" piece of plywood to put in front of the 18" table to complete the full bed area.

The reason I wanted the narrower table was to be able to have "couch" seating in the back, without having a table or the table pedestals to deal with. That way, if we had guests in the trailer, (as long as there are only 2 ) or if the 4 of us just want to lounge, we can all sit without a table in the way, and the back seat can actually be usable. At least that's the theory. We have not actually tried it out.
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Old 02-24-2017, 11:18 AM   #9
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Humm, I'm visualizing this. In this configuration, wouldn't the table be in the way if/when someone needs to get out of bed in the middle of the night? A PITA to crawl over?
The table would be under the boards - ie, the boards are placed over the table in a lowered position.

This would only be needed if you had a round or irregular shape table - a rectangular table would just slide back and have a filler board. This would be as shown below.
New, improved dinette table for our Escape 21 | Follow Toto
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New-TotoLounge-Table.jpg   Lounge-table.jpg   Filler-board.jpg  
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Old 02-24-2017, 11:29 AM   #10
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The table would be under the boards - ie, the boards are placed over the table in a lowered position.

This would only be needed if you had a round or irregular shape table - a rectangular table would just slide back and have a filler board. This would be as shown below.
New, improved dinette table for our Escape 21 | Follow Toto
I believe that is either a 17.5" or an 18" table in the photos. I also believe that Doug recently posted that if he had to do it over again he would have it be a 23" table so he could use the Dicor 4-way slide, and would therefore have a 7" filler board.
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Old 02-24-2017, 11:30 AM   #11
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The table would be under the boards - ie, the boards are placed over the table in a lowered position.
Okay the pictures helps me make sense now. You're using the table in the same fashion as any other table that makes the bed. I thought it was going to be lowered below bed level and a filler board placed over the table. But that's not what I'm seeing in that last picture.
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Old 02-24-2017, 11:48 AM   #12
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Okay the pictures helps me make sense now. You're using the table in the same fashion as any other table that makes the bed. I thought it was going to be lowered below bed level and a filler board placed over the table. But that's not what I'm seeing in that last picture.
The example in the pictures is for a rectangular table. If the table was made round or custom (ie. sliced tree section) then the table would have to be lowered below bed level and filler boards placed on top of the table.

I still have that picture in my head of Duke's beautiful custom table. Duke will be at Bluebonnet - I'll ask him if I can take pictures. It kinda looked like below but with a poly gloss finish. Of course, his is a one of a kind.
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Old 02-24-2017, 07:48 PM   #13
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Been using a 24" rectangle as a test for the last 10 weeks. Put some of Debs craft stuff on it, my laptop, and a couple highballs and it's pretty small. Works fine the rest of the time. We've only set it into "lounge" mode once when it rained, Louisiana style, for 2 days. It worked very well then. Certainly easier to get in and out of the seats with the smaller table. I do find it is rarely in the full forward position.

If I keep it a 24" I'll make a filler bd. Previously I had a 12" filler for use as a lounge with the full size table removed (pre Springfield). It was more comfortable as a lounge then the 24 is. It also fit inside rear seat, which was nice, same place I'd put the filler for the 24. I'll also need to come up with cushions for the 24" in "lounge", the stock cushions didn't work too well.

Think I need a variety of tables and fillers, different configurations depending on the trip.
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Old 02-24-2017, 08:59 PM   #14
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We cut it to 20" - there are only two of us, but we have had two other friends in since getting the table cut and played a board game and it worked out great.
I think it really depends on what you will use the table for, 20" is working great for us.
Is the 20" in the front-to-back direction?

As Tom (tdf-texas) mentioned, the side-to-side dimension can't be reduced or you won't be able to convert to a bed.

But since the springfield pedestal rotates, you could turn the table so it is 20" side-to-side and 34.5 front-to back. Is this what you do?
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Old 02-24-2017, 09:18 PM   #15
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We use the table both ways with the 20" front to back and have turned it with the 20" side to side. When we had a friend in to go over some maps for trip planning we had it 20" side to side- it gives more room to sort of just walk in to the benches.
When you turn it that way it is closer to the back wall but it also slides side to side. We only have the slide that was installed by Escape but it has quite a bit of functionality.
When we received it originally we had it sliding front to back, it still slides that way with the 20" running front to back.
As I mentioned earlier, although the table is 20" the 18" side cushion back still works pretty well , without needing an extra cushion except for a 5" x 18" piece of 4" to fill the tiny gap. We put that behind one of the seat cushions, so nothing really to find an extra place for.
As said earlier you need a filler piece to make up the difference between the 20" table and the full side table to make up the bed.
We really like the set up.
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Old 03-31-2017, 10:34 AM   #16
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Been using a 24" rectangle as a test for the last 10 weeks. Put some of Debs craft stuff on it, my laptop, and a couple highballs and it's pretty small.
What took up the most room...the craft stuff or the highballs??
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Old 03-31-2017, 10:36 AM   #17
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What took up the most room...the craft stuff or the highballs[emoji23]??
Simple, no brainer solution, the craft stuff has to go.
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Old 03-31-2017, 10:37 AM   #18
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Simple, no brainer solution, the craft stuff has to go. ;}
Don't tell my wife I said this, okay!
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Old 03-31-2017, 08:51 PM   #19
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Oh no Jim...my brain works much better on crafts!!😊

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Old 05-05-2017, 06:57 AM   #20
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Another table top option

Gidday good folks... With the U shape dinette of the 5.0 TA ... the stock table size and shape makes it "cozy"... or shall I say "cramped". We would like the table for meal times, and enough room for lounging, plus the ability to put it down at night for sleeping... the trifecta BTW ... a Springfield pedestal is also being considered.

To do this I know there has to be some compromises. I really like of the ideas of cutting the table down and adding a "filler board" to allow the bed to still be used.

I have an ideas! How about cutting the corners of the table top at the rear of the table to match the corner cuts at the front in the stock configuration. This way when the table is rotated it will work equally in all direction. Plus to allow for a little more wiggle room at the rear bench.

The QUESTION... When this "new" table is down... will the bed still work? I have attached a diagram (a picture is worth a 1000 words)

COMMENTS & OPINIONS would be appreciated.
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