Tool Kit?

[John in Santa Cruz]

In torque wrenches, the choice of 3/8 vs 1/2 vs 3/4 should be chosen based on the range of torques you need. good 1/2" torque wrenches tend to go up to 250 ft-lbs, which is how much torque the 1-1/2" nut on a 1" shaft 2" tow ball requires, and probably the max you'll ever need on a trailer. torque wrenches are optimal in the middle 1/3rd of their working range, I would not use a 1/2" torque wrench rated for up to 250 ft-lbs on anything much under about 50 ft-lbs, a 3/8" is better for those smaller values.

[citabria90]

Originally Posted by Farther

I wasn't sure what section this question should be posted so moderators please move if desired.

I usually carry far more tools than I would use in this lifetime but I don't have any RV specialized tools so there is always room for more. The tool kit I carry in my Honda Ridgeline tow vehicle is a carryover from my Honda motorcycle days so it seldom got used. I carry a CruzTool mini ratchet & sockets in a blow-molded plastic box, Craftsman shorty metric wrenches and a variety of other common hand tools such as pliers, screwdrivers (including Japanese spec screwdrivers), needlenose ViseGrips, small Crescent wrench, zip ties, & tire pressure gauge, etc. All this is carried in CruzTool tool roll inside a Harbor Freight soft toolbag. Since I am a retired career firefighter-medic, I also carry a breaching tool. I should carry a first-aid kit, but I don't although there is one in my go bag that may find its way to the Escape when I get the trailer. I plan on upgrading to a 20" Makita soft toolbag if needed. No doubt I will carry my Makita 18v cordless driver & drill with way too many accessories. The drill & accessories go in its own toolbox.

So my question is: what composes your tool kit (standard tools & specialized tools) including the toolbox/carrier you carry all your stuff in?

Lemmie see . . .

• an Escape multi-bit screwdriver
• an Escape corkscrew
• low-balance credit card (as someone else mentioned).

Other than that . . .

Chuck

PS - why be anal?

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by citabria90

Lemmie see . . .

• an Escape multi-bit screwdriver
• an Escape corkscrew
• low-balance credit card (as someone else mentioned).

Other than that . . .

Chuck

PS - why be anal?

Why indeed. Because in every campground there's someone like me. Wander up and ask if I might have some duct tape and my answer would be "what color"

I think there's 4 basic types of tool users.

There's the wouldn't dream of fixing something themselves. Call someone.

The carry a few tools and try to fix whatever on their own.

The carry every tool that they've heard someone say they should have but since they don't normally do much with tools have some very shiny unused tools.

And then there's big time tool users like me and others that have been offshore where you had to be able to fix whatever needed fixing. Home Depot isn't an option.

I'm just in the process of unloading items that won't be sold with the 19. My-oh-my, I may edit the number of socket sets etc. before they go in the 21.

Ron

[Telescopist]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

You can buy a very inexpensive 1/2 inch drive torque wrench at Harbor freight. They cost either $20 all the time or $13 or 10 dollars on sale. They’re not great but we’ve tested them against good certified wrenches and they’re pretty close.

I checked Harbor Freight's torque wrench out. For a few dollars more ($28) this one that I got from Amazon is better I think. Although they are probably stamped out in the same factor in China.
I also got this deep well 13/16" impact socket when I was at Harbor Freight which eliminates the need for an extension. It was $4.

Torque wrenches are not used to break stuck nuts loose so that’s where a stiff wrench comes in. I prefer a 1/2 inch breaker bar about 18 inches long.

Amen. To save on my back I sprung for this 2 footer. 24 inch model once again off of Amazon. I have a love/hate relationship with Harbor Freight. Some of their stuff lives a nice long life like my framing nailer. Other things like sets of 'cobalt' drill bits will snap during the first use. While lurking around on Amazon's site I found this 21mm deep lug nut socket for the 4 Runner. I probably should have gotten this style for the lug nuts on the trailer too. I may yet.

[padlin]

I went this route. The aluminum wheels on my truck require a thin wall socket, which these are to some extent. Fits everything including the anode, no hitch ball on my setup.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...-pc-69781.html

I know you folks frown on it but I'll use the 1/2" torque wrench for wheel removal in the unlikely event I can't call Good Sam. That, the sockets, and a couple extensions fit the bill for me.

[Iowa Dave]

I am fond of high quality/ high polish wrenches but there is a practicality with camping tools. I bought my son in law a new in the package Craftsman torque wrench at an auction for less than 1/2 the price of an on sale unit and it works great. Alf needed a quarter inch drive socket set at Niagara a couple years ago. I have a very nice standard S-K set and loaned it to him. Problem was that a little 5mm socket was needed. The lady who was needing the socket amazingly had a little metric set from the dollar store with the right socket in it. So together we got the job done. It taught me that high quality and high polish aren’t a factor If you don’t have the right one.
Iowa Dave

[Telescopist]

[QUOTE=padlin;294862]I went this route. The aluminum wheels on my truck require a thin wall socket, which these are to some extent. Fits everything including the anode, no hitch ball on my setup.

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-t...-pc-69781.html

I know you folks frown on it but I'll use the 1/2" torque wrench for wheel removal in the unlikely event I can't call Good Sam. That, the sockets, and a couple extensions fit the bill for me.

Nice find that set of sockets. I'll probably look around too to make sure no one is watching when I'm out in the middle of nowhere and have to use my torque wrench instead of a breaker bar in order to remove a wheel.

[Ron in BC]

If torque wrenches weren't meant to undo wheels nuts why are they calibrated or have ratchets that work in both directions?

Ron

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

If torque wrenches weren't meant to undo wheels nuts why are they calibrated or have ratchets that work in both directions?



Ron

I have wondered the same thing.

[Ian and Sue]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

If torque wrenches weren't meant to undo wheels nuts why are they calibrated or have ratchets that work in both directions?

Ron

I think you will find that a lug nut that has been on a while will require much more torque to break it free than the required torque setting to put it on.

[gbaglo]

I tried using an old torque wrench as a breaker bar. It was too bendy. Replaced it with a cheap, stiff, made for the application breaker bar. It rests next to my torque wrench. Why not have the proper tool?

[padlin]

To me a 1/2" drive torque wrench that's 18" long is a breaker bar, as long as I don't tell anyone. For $20 I'm not concerned.

FWIW, I do own a 1/2" breaker bar, I carried it along till I got the torque wrench.

[Ron in BC]

I have an assortment of Johnson Bars. I agree, if you're using a cheapo torque wrench, the kind with the bendy handle and needle indicator, rated for 100 foot pounds, you might not find it satisfactory to remove a stuck lug nut. But the scale reads both ways so that would imply that it can be used in either direction.

The one I carry in the trailer is the "click" type rated for 250 foot pounds. If it won't remove a stuck lug nut then the solution isn't a longer handle.

Ron

[Ronn]

5/64th Allen Wrench - according to Reace on his orientation video it is very common that the water pump will run continuously on new trailers - it did on ours. We were just turning it on and off until we ran into a camper who had one. Simple fix but not without the allen wrench (I tried various tools, but couldn't get the right fit and turn it).

[cpaharley2008]

and speaking of allen wrenches, 5/32 for the awning tilt adjust....

[Telescopist]

Originally Posted by Ian and Sue

I think you will find that a lug nut that has been on a while will require much more torque to break it free than the required torque setting to put it on.

You answered the question.

[Telescopist]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

The one I carry in the trailer is the "click" type rated for 250 foot pounds. If it won't remove a stuck lug nut then the solution isn't a longer handle. Ron

The solution is a longer handle. It is all about leverage.

[dfandrews]

Here's a little gem from Harbor Freight, that's not in the socket aisle ( Harbor Freight #62491 ):

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by dfandrews

Here's a little gem from Harbor Freight, that's not in the socket aisle ( Harbor Freight #62491 ):

so those are the 4 common lug nut sizes? that and a 18 or 24" 1/2" breaker bar would certainly do the trick!

hmmm, both my Escape and F250 use 13/16ths, looks like, so the big tire wrench under the hood should suffice.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Telescopist

The solution is a longer handle. It is all about leverage.

Ever replaced a broken wheel stud? While I'm guilty sometimes of the old "hit it with a hammer, if that doesn't work, hit it with a bigger hammer". There's a measure of common sense and experience required of when to get a longer lever. I strongly suggest that if a torque wrench rated for 250 ft./lbs. won't undo a tight wheel lug that is rated for 95 ft./lbs. the answer is not a longer lever unless you want a lesson in replacing a sheared off stud.

I would go for penetrating oil and/or heat and, if available, an impact wrench long before I risked snapping the stud.

Ron