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Old 06-20-2019, 08:53 PM   #81
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Impacts

Iíve always been amazed that a frozen nut can often be knocked loose with an impact wrench set on a pretty light setting. That steady thumping at even 30 or 40 ft lbs. will loosen a lot of tough nuts. If I use penetrating fluid on a nut I always take care to use solvent to clean the stud up and the nut threads so they donít work loose after they are reinstalled.
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Old 06-21-2019, 05:46 AM   #82
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I believe they make an anti seize grease for wheel lugs https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8007...gateway&sr=8-3
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Old 06-21-2019, 07:53 AM   #83
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There's a measure of common sense and experience required of when to get a longer lever. I strongly suggest that if a torque wrench rated for 250 ft./lbs. won't undo a tight wheel lug that is rated for 95 ft./lbs. the answer is not a longer lever unless you want a lesson in replacing a sheared off stud.
Because a torque wrench is rated for 250 ft./lbs doesn't mean that you can loosen a lug nut with it. Once again it is all about leverage and how much ass you can put into it. I'd begin with a breaker bar every time. Penetrating oil is cool. But what about when you are traveling and out of cell phone range. You have no choice but remove the tire.

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I would go for penetrating oil and/or heat and, if available, an impact wrench long before I risked snapping the stud.

Ron
An impact wrench is not an option if you are in the boonies. Also (and I have one) an impact wrench is much 'better' at threading on lug nuts then it is taking off ones which have been on for an extended period of time. The throttling vibration of the impact type lug nut socket in conjunction with using the impact wrench on obstinate lug nuts can mess them up pretty good. At least that has been my experience.
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Old 06-21-2019, 08:30 AM   #84
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I was drawing from my personal experience and had not had a previous negative experience with stripping out the knurlized wheel stud shaft or stripping stud threads. That’s why I referred to a light setting on the wrench if adjustable. At 15 lbs, my Milwaukee 18v 2763-22 usually stays home because I know I don’t have any rusty or frozen wheel studs or nuts even if I have tire trouble. However it is powerful and depending upon individual weight limits or preferences it’s a portable option when air compressors or AC power are not available. I think that with regular tire rotation, brake inspection, wheel bearing servicing and even the fact that I pull the tires and wheels to thoroughly clean the wheel wells of dirt and tar and to wax the wheel wells my chance for stuck nuts is very minimal. I have an occasional flat tire but more likely these days a tire with a slow leak so regular inspection and checking the tire pressures keep me out of trouble most of the time. 55 year old habits are hard to break. Full Disclosure: my attention to detail does NOT meet the local standard for waxing or washing so pulling the wheels is done for my wife Rita when she so requests. YMMV
Iowa wax on——most wax off Dave
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Old 06-21-2019, 09:59 AM   #85
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
If torque wrenches weren't meant to undo wheels nuts why are they calibrated or have ratchets that work in both directions?

Ron
Left hand bolts. Remember when dodges had left hand lug nuts on the left side of the vehicle. They were supposed to keep lug nuts from loosening.in theory you should be able to use a torque wrench to loosen lug nuts since removal torque should be about 70% of the torque they were installed with but I wouldnít. I always use anti seize on lug nuts to assure easier removal. Remember that lubricant on lug nut threads that specs call for dry application will increase the actual torque so if the specs call for 85-95 torque to 85 with lubricant.
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Old 06-21-2019, 10:19 AM   #86
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Ever replaced a broken wheel stud? While I'm guilty sometimes of the old "hit it with a hammer, if that doesn't work, hit it with a bigger hammer". There's a measure of common sense and experience required of when to get a longer lever. I strongly suggest that if a torque wrench rated for 250 ft./lbs. won't undo a tight wheel lug that is rated for 95 ft./lbs. the answer is not a longer lever unless you want a lesson in replacing a sheared off stud.
Ron
I called up a mechanic that has done work for us in the past. He has a 5 car bay and has been in the business for 50 some odd years. I asked him about how often he has to replace a broken wheel stud. He said that maybe once a year he run's into a deal where one snaps off. His guys rotate and replace dozens of tires Monday thru Friday. They do torque the lug nuts but they never use a torque wrench to remove them.
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Old 06-21-2019, 10:34 AM   #87
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I like this guy already. There was also a time that some GM cars came with stud bolts instead of a stud and lug nuts. I think these were mid to late 50s Oldsmobiles and maybe Pontiacs? Left hand nuts and poor vision are certainly a recipe for frustration when you can’t see that little L.
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Old 06-21-2019, 11:15 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Telescopist View Post
Because a torque wrench is rated for 250 ft./lbs doesn't mean that you can loosen a lug nut with it.

Still not understanding why not.

An impact wrench is not an option if you are in the boonies. Also (and I have one) an impact wrench is much 'better' at threading on lug nuts then it is taking off ones which have been on for an extended period of time. The throttling vibration of the impact type lug nut socket in conjunction with using the impact wrench on obstinate lug nuts can mess them up pretty good. At least that has been my experience.
Can't agree with that. I've had to deal with the results of a poorly trained shop employee ramming on a lug nut without ensuring it was started correctly. If a stud appears rusty wire brush it before removal. I'v never had stud damaged by using an impact wrench.


Quote:
Originally Posted by AKCamper View Post
Left hand bolts. Remember when dodges had left hand lug nuts on the left side of the vehicle. .
Do I ever. When I was a kid working in a gas station they were quite common and I had a 54 Dodge. Definitely a few studs got snapped before it became common knowledge among the DIY crowd.


Anyway, the whole point was the thread was about what tools to take on the road with your trailer, not about what some guy with a garage does.

I'll still use my ratcheting torque wrench as my go-to tool. As for how much "ass" you have to put in to break a nut free, I find it much easier to just step on the end of the handle.

Ron
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