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Old 07-13-2020, 07:47 PM   #21
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Quote:
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The method they attached the propane base to the frame could become a problem over time. They drill holes and without cleaning the bits or painting, attach it with screws. The picture was taken after the trailer was two months old. I believe some have had the screws rust right off. Not good to have your tanks loose and everyone should be checking theirs. It would be so much more secure to have the base welded to the tongue and also add extra support.

Not so important, but my floor has a little extra filler over the seams that makes for a hump...just sloppy work...but at least they filled them.

Was not impressed with the cross supports underneath the bed of our 19 not going all the way across. I was able to redo it...so it can be done. However I have never heard of it being a problem.
Ed thanks for the heads up on the propane attachment ! Hope that bump isnít a problem as for how Escape attaches tha support for the bed Ron found that on his 19 bed years ago . I am not going to do any changes at this time . So far havenít noticed any problems but not how I would attach . I think Tom also found that on his 21 and fixed it. Just have more pressing things at this time but will definitely address the propane attachment now . Pat
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Old 07-13-2020, 07:55 PM   #22
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I'd say the Escape lasted longer than the hitch......

I had the Toyota dealership inspect the hitch attachment etc. a couple years ago during a service. They didn't find any concern at the time.
Recent service resulted in a half-dozen suspension issues that will need attention for a total bill of $2,700.

I might need to buy a new hitch receiver, with a Highlander Limited attached.
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Old 07-13-2020, 08:02 PM   #23
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We've had ours almost 5 years, and like Myron's, ours must have been made mid-week; it's been fine.

Maintenance has been a little black paint on frame bottoms, a little caulk on the tops of the upper brake light bars. But then, I don't bounce the trailer on rough and unimproved roads. I tend to remember that there are more than two axles to ease over bumps or around holes.

But, last week I noticed the 3 screws on the top door hinge were loose, so I tightened them. 240 miles later, they're loose again. I am planning for thru-bolts with stop nuts as a fix.
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Old 07-13-2020, 08:57 PM   #24
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We've had ours almost 5 years, and like Myron's, ours must have been made mid-week; it's been fine.

Maintenance has been a little black paint on frame bottoms, a little caulk on the tops of the upper brake light bars. But then, I don't bounce the trailer on rough and unimproved roads. I tend to remember that there are more than two axles to ease over bumps or around holes.

But, last week I noticed the 3 screws on the top door hinge were loose, so I tightened them. 240 miles later, they're loose again. I am planning for thru-bolts with stop nuts as a fix.
When you remove to fix you will find the holes are elongated. Really need a rubber gasket or seal . Found our screws also keep loosening before the new stainless hinges and rubber gasket . The gasket I cut from thin old bike tube . Pat
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Old 07-13-2020, 10:34 PM   #25
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When you remove to fix you will find the holes are elongated. Really need a rubber gasket or seal . Found our screws also keep loosening before the new stainless hinges and rubber gasket . The gasket I cut from thin old bike tube . Pat

Pat,
Yes, I noticed that there was a gap behind the hinge (dirt coating), and I had remembered that you mentioned a rubber gasket, so that"s part of the plan. Thanks.

When screws come loose on an important connection, my go-to solution is always through-bolts. It looks like I'll have to custom-bend/shape some fender washers on the inside, to conform to the surface of the door. The Project is next on the list.

(Why is it, when you're retired, the list is long and there's not enough time??)
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Old 07-14-2020, 12:37 AM   #26
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Pat,
Yes, I noticed that there was a gap behind the hinge (dirt coating), and I had remembered that you mentioned a rubber gasket, so that"s part of the plan. Thanks.

When screws come loose on an important connection, my go-to solution is always through-bolts. It looks like I'll have to custom-bend/shape some fender washers on the inside, to conform to the surface of the door. The Project is next on the list.

(Why is it, when you're retired, the list is long and there's not enough time??)
Hey Don nothing wrong with your through bolts , I thought of that too but decided to just try fixing first ,required one new hole and the rubber . Also added some glued in wood dowels in the holes , redrilled into dowels which tightened up the screws . Escape had some wood in the wall but it wasnít holding the screws anymore . I drilled the holes in body a little to put in short small dowels glued in. The door I added sealant in the holes . The rubber helps to hold the hinges from moving on the trailer body . It has been 5 years ? Nothing has loosened . Also found without the rubber from constantly tightening the hinges before hinges gorged the fiberglass . Luckily body didnít crack . But I was at first going to go the bolt route .
Even though almost fully retired I donít mind improving and working on the trailer . And yes our doors are very important ! Pat
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Old 07-14-2020, 08:01 AM   #27
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After battling frame rust on our previous Scamp for 5 years with yearly repainting to no avail I tried Woolwax undercoating on our Escape. We do most of our camping in the winter on salt covered roads. The Woolwax is working well. I just touch up wear surfaces each summer. Nice thing is that no cleaning is required.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 07-14-2020, 08:59 AM   #28
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Weak spot? How about the loud stove hood fan! Sounds like a jet is landing in my trailer. I did score a FOP Sam replacement. Like a bunch of stuff, just haven't gotten around to installing it. I am a believer in having the hood/fan. I've painted enough kitchens in my lifetime to realize it saves the interior from excess moisture and grease. But seriously, ETI needs to find a better/quieter appliance.
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Old 07-14-2020, 10:34 AM   #29
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Weak spot? How about the loud stove hood fan! Sounds like a jet is landing in my trailer. I did score a FOP Sam replacement. Like a bunch of stuff, just haven't gotten around to installing it. I am a believer in having the hood/fan. I've painted enough kitchens in my lifetime to realize it saves the interior from excess moisture and grease. But seriously, ETI needs to find a better/quieter appliance.
I don't have a history to compare it to but I bet ETI changed fan/hoods. Mine is very nice and not loud at all.
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Old 07-14-2020, 11:00 AM   #30
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I don't have a history to compare it to but I bet ETI changed fan/hoods. Mine is very nice and not loud at all.
You make a good point! A number of the problems that have been identified on this site have been corrected / changed to eliminate the problem by Escape over the years.

That crappy battery disconnect switch they used to install? The key work is "used to" - they now install a good switch that will last. Refrigerator that wouldn't cool in the heat - gone and replaced with one that works well in the Texas heat. Etc. etc.

We may miss Reace but the attitude of Escape to continue to always improve the Escape trailers that he instilled lives on.

I wouldn't want to trade my trailer in for a new one - too many improvements I've made over the last three years but cpaharley2008 may have the right idea in getting a new Escape before the propane runs out. Each new year seems to be better than the last and the improvements keep going.
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Old 07-14-2020, 12:09 PM   #31
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My main issue from day 1 has been the cheap coupler. It has now been resolved on my trailer with a Bulldog coupler. There have been enough complaints over the years on the coupler that I’m shocked that the trailers at these price points are still coming off the line with such a weak and vitally important part. It is a simple improvement for ETI to have the frame company upgrade the frame coupler to a quality part.
We had frame rust on the rear bumper on pickup day. I’ve kept ahead of it on our frame, but if we weren’t in AZ it would be much more significant.
Roof wiring runs on the solar were poor on ours. Per AMSolar I removed the MC4 connectors on the roof and did a splice n heat shrink. There were no cable guides on the wires on the roof to the fridge vent entry point and the wiring along the edge of the panel was sloppily run. Have added those wire guides with vhb tape and cleaned up the runs. This may be done better now, but no idea.
Wiring in general, while my 2015 is done much better than my 2005, I still find and redo things that make you scratch your head. May be done better now, no idea.
No framing around many of the interior cuts for items like the propane detector, solar controller, etc. Screws are simply going into the thin pressboard material and don’t hold up long term. Have added 1x furring strips around the cutouts for most of these items so screws sink into solid material. On any switches, battery monitor, etc have added 1/8 ply stiffening boards behind the thin paneling material.

Overall, love the trailer wouldn’t change, but these are some of the weak spots I’ve had to redo on ours over the years.
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Old 07-14-2020, 12:21 PM   #32
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It's not thin pressboard. It's lauan plywood.
Lauan plywood (also known as Luan Plywood) is a commercial term used throughout the United States that typically refers to a 1/8" - 1/4" tropical hardwood plywood panel used for underlayment in flooring, lamination, paper overlay, furniture, and millwork applications.
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Old 07-14-2020, 12:38 PM   #33
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Fluid Film is your friend to prevent rust. It's lanolin (sheep oil?). It can wash off, but, it does a great job of wicking itself into cracks and crevices and preventing rust.

I'll probably give my frame a once over with Rustoleum and then hit the places I can't paint with Fluid Film. It would be great for under the propane mount.

You can get it in spray cans or by the gallon.





I buy it by the gallon and used this sprayer to do the entire underside of my Sprinter van.

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Old 07-14-2020, 12:56 PM   #34
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Weak spot? How about the loud stove hood fan! Sounds like a jet is landing in my trailer. I did score a FOP Sam replacement. Like a bunch of stuff, just haven't gotten around to installing it. I am a believer in having the hood/fan. I've painted enough kitchens in my lifetime to realize it saves the interior from excess moisture and grease. But seriously, ETI needs to find a better/quieter appliance.
We replaced our vent hood also with the Sam1 . You are going to love it especially the led light and 3 speeds . The original vent fan was awful and didnít even move much air but sure made a racket ! Pat
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Old 07-14-2020, 01:04 PM   #35
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The newer exhaust hoods are a lot better and meow quiet than previous models, even comes with LED lights.
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Old 07-14-2020, 01:49 PM   #36
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I know it's no longer an issue on the newer models, but the screen door on my classic is the only true weak point for me. I'm on my 2nd replacement roll, and suspect it will not be my last.
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Old 07-14-2020, 02:02 PM   #37
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Woolwax is similar to Fluid Film but is thicker. It is more difficult to spray on but brushes on easily. The benefit is that the Woolwax last a lot longer. They tell you to reapply Fluid Film each year. With the Woolwax you only need to touch up areas each year that get road grit blasted.
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Old 07-14-2020, 02:12 PM   #38
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Woolwax is similar to Fluid Film but is thicker. It is more difficult to spray on but brushes on easily. The benefit is that the Woolwax last a lot longer. They tell you to reapply Fluid Film each year. With the Woolwax you only need to touch up areas each year that get road grit blasted.
Thanks for the information on the 'Woolwax', I'll look in to it for areas where the Fluid Film gets washed off too easily.

Yes, we periodically respray with the Fluid Film.

The benefit of the thinner Fluid Film is it does seem to wick itself around after spraying. So it especially good for spraying inside of vehicle frames and into blind cracks where you can't be sure you're getting 100% coverage.
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Old 07-14-2020, 04:18 PM   #39
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It's not thin pressboard. It's lauan plywood.
Lauan plywood (also known as Luan Plywood) is a commercial term used throughout the United States that typically refers to a 1/8" - 1/4" tropical hardwood plywood panel used for underlayment in flooring, lamination, paper overlay, furniture, and millwork applications.
Doesn't matter what you want to call it, strips out and doesn't hold screws well.
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Old 07-14-2020, 04:35 PM   #40
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Doesn't matter what you want to call it, strips out and doesn't hold screws well.

It matters. Not sure why you would expect 5mm Lauan plywood to hold a screw for any length of time, especially in a trailer. If it was pressboard, the screw would have fallen out immediately.
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