For comparison, here's my hitch receiver ( Hidden Hitch ), which was coated in some material ( like plastic? ) that peeled off in sheets ( you can see in pic ) once rust worked its way under.
It was probably powder-coated. Great stuff, until it peels, as it normally does.
The method they attached the propane base to the frame could become a problem over time. They drill holes and without cleaning the bits or painting, attach it with screws. The picture was taken after the trailer was two months old. I believe some have had the screws rust right off. Not good to have your tanks loose and everyone should be checking theirs. It would be so much more secure to have the base welded to the tongue and also add extra support.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patandlinda
Ed thanks for the heads up on the propane attachment !
Pat: Take a close look at the propane tank base. Earlier classic Escapes including ours have it welded to the frame. Has been rock solid and no complaints here. Not sure when and why they changed this fabrication detail.
On our trailer, only, the factory forgot to install the 1"x2" framing on the cabinet above the refrigerator. The microwave normally goes there. The cabinet has a hinge on the top of the "framing" and in our case the screws are just attached to the 1/8" paneling. Not good at all. The factory attempted a fix May 2019. The "fix" lasted 2 door openings. Dustin at Escape has told us this factory defect is our fault as we drive bad roads. An email to Karl also failed to resolve this issue. We will be cutting a hole in the cabinet ceiling to access the screws as soon as we get home from this trip. Without looking at the backside of the paneling we don't know if this will be a 1"x2" added, large fender washers, or a steel plate to give enough grab for through bolts. Again, it appears to be only our trailer. All the other cabinet openings have 1"×2" framing all around the cabinet doors.
Depending on what you prefer, the foam in the cushions in the dinette wear out rapidly. We were compressing the foam to the plywood underneath after 140 days of use. We replaced with much more dense foam. We both weigh under 160 pounds. Perhaps the foam in our trailer was meant more for sleeping and not as sturdy as foam for seating.
A recent problem is our Maxx fan circuit board has failed. We'll chalk that up to parking next to warm seawater for 4 months. We'll follow the forum advice of spraying a sealant onto the new board whenever Maxx fan sends us one.
Another recent problem is we discovered is one tire in particular had extreme wear on one side of the tire, almost down to the belts. It is on the rear axle. The tire on the other side does not look quite as bad, but still had more wear only on one side.We contacted Dexter Axle and "without accepting liability" appear that they will ship us a new axle and money for installation.
Our trailer will be 2 years old in Oct. We have towed around 20,000 miles after looking at our logbook. We have slept in it about 280 days.
Hi: All... IMHO it's the "Non owners"!!! Sorry I couldn't resist. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
__________________
Quote Bugs Bunny..."Don't take life too seriously, none of us get out of it ALIVE"!!!
'16 Ram Eco D. 4X4 Laramie Longhorn CC & '14 Escape 5.0TA
St.Thomas (Not the Virgin Islands) Ontario
Pat: Take a close look at the propane tank base. Earlier classic Escapes including ours have it welded to the frame. Has been rock solid and no complaints here. Not sure when and why they changed this fabrication detail.
Thanks Dave as soon as I get a chance will take a good look and see what if anything needs some attention .We are shut down again so no hurry trailer isn’t going anywhere , just sitting �� Pat
Location: Lanesboro, MN, between Whalan and Fountain, Minnesota
Trailer: 2018 5.0 TA
Posts: 1,048
For a while there were many posts here about the sail switch problem in the furnaces. Ours plugged up a number of times in our first 100 nights. We replaced the sail switch with what looks to be an identical switch and now have 200 nights without a problem. Search posts for "sail switch".
Don't remember a sail switch problem recently, so did everyone who had issues replace their switch?
Enjoy,
Perry
__________________
Those who know everything use pens. Intelligent people use pencils.
I didn't write that very well. I meant that it seems there were a lot less sail switch problems last winter (2019-20) than the winter before 2018-19).
I imagine it's still a weak point though.
Enjoy,
Perry
At least with the different furnace cover on the newer trailers, it is fairly easy to access and replace. Compared to older trailers where it was a major project pulling the heater.
Trailer: 2018 -21-picked up in May 2019 / 2018 F 150 5.0
Posts: 184
Quote:
Originally Posted by Upfisk
On our trailer, only, the factory forgot to install the 1"x2" framing on the cabinet above the refrigerator. The microwave normally goes there. The cabinet has a hinge on the top of the "framing" and in our case the screws are just attached to the 1/8" paneling. Not good at all. The factory attempted a fix May 2019. The "fix" lasted 2 door openings. Dustin at Escape has told us this factory defect is our fault as we drive bad roads. An email to Karl also failed to resolve this issue. We will be cutting a hole in the cabinet ceiling to access the screws as soon as we get home from this trip. Without looking at the backside of the paneling we don't know if this will be a 1"x2" added, large fender washers, or a steel plate to give enough grab for through bolts. Again, it appears to be only our trailer. All the other cabinet openings have 1"×2" framing all around the cabinet doors.
Depending on what you prefer, the foam in the cushions in the dinette wear out rapidly. We were compressing the foam to the plywood underneath after 140 days of use. We replaced with much more dense foam. We both weigh under 160 pounds. Perhaps the foam in our trailer was meant more for sleeping and not as sturdy as foam for seating.
For the cabinet opening, could you not just glue in 1x2 inch strips all around the cabinet on the inside and then you would have something sturdy to screw the door to?
I think the cushion foam is just regular old basic foam. We figured that if we have it long enough that it needs to be replaced then we will upgrade to a better quality foam and maybe a different covering at that time. I don't think most people get that much use out of their trailers so maybe the foam lasts longer/doesn't get that worn as quickly.
Need something to anchor the cabinets and such. Last I knew, the blocks are glassed in to some extent.
Okay, coating with resin (maybe even some glass mat) helps, but the screws make holes that are vulnerable to moisture. Isn't there something synthetic or non-rotting that could be used for the anchor points?
__________________ Losing weight puts one at much greater risk of becoming thin.
Have a 2017 17b. Discovered the weak spot was the support structure for the 2 6V batteries on rear bumper. The wood was disintegrating below the battery box & the passenger side was sized for a 12V battery so that battery was resting just on the wood vs on the metal supports. Could have been very dangerous if that battery had dropped out.
Today a mobile welder came & welded additional supports horizontally.
Alf
Say it ain't so! 
What are they thinking?
Linear Mode
