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Old 08-14-2014, 09:25 AM   #101
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Was it hard to install yourself?
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Old 08-14-2014, 09:58 AM   #102
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Nice cover. When I bought my CalMark cover for my 17, I was under impression it only covered the trailer, and not the propane tanks or storage box. Accordingly, I had them construct a separate cover for the tanks and box, which came out not fitting quite as nicely as the trailer cover. After I get my 19 I'll order one like yours! Would you be willing to share the dimensions you gave CalMark, via PM? I can adjust them for the A/C and Maxx fan.
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:38 AM   #103
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Nice cover. When I bought my CalMark cover for my 17, I was under impression it only covered the trailer, and not the propane tanks or storage box. Accordingly, I had them construct a separate cover for the tanks and box, which came out not fitting quite as nicely as the trailer cover. After I get my 19 I'll order one like yours! Would you be willing to share the dimensions you gave CalMark, via PM? I can adjust them for the A/C and Maxx fan.
Please do a search under General Escape forum for Calmart and you will find the measurement and pictures that I used to order my cover. On my trailer I have AC ,Max Air Fan ,awning and the spare tire all fit under the cover .
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:47 AM   #104
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Was it hard to install yourself?
Hi Jim,
I had a helper and used two of these 10 FT poles to put the cover on. It took us less then 15 minutes and that was our time we put the cover on our trailer.
Mark
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:57 AM   #105
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I dropped battery monitor cables and an Umbra hook in the mail, today.

My T@B is sold, we're trailerless and the anticipation is getting painful. Two large dogs that want to go camping NOW isn't helping.
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Old 08-14-2014, 07:06 PM   #106
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I punched 6 little holes in the spare tire cover to allow rainwater to drain from the bottom.
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Old 08-14-2014, 07:58 PM   #107
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I began planning how to install a baffle behind my 4.3 but without pulling the fridge out. Got left over corrugated plastic I want to employ. I think there's a way it can be done.
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Old 08-14-2014, 08:02 PM   #108
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I dropped battery monitor cables and an Umbra hook in the mail, today.

My T@B is sold, we're trailerless and the anticipation is getting painful. Two large dogs that want to go camping NOW isn't helping.
You'd better get that dog (bear?) out camping soon. He'll need his own trailer.


Mark, that looks like a handy tool that we could use.
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Old 08-14-2014, 08:02 PM   #109
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This is the sheet I will use.
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:51 PM   #110
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Good luck inserting it. I'll be interested to see how it goes. My trailer has the baffle but I want to add some Reflectix between it and the trailer skin. My thought is that it'll reduce heat build up in an area where getting rid of heat is the name of the game.

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Old 08-15-2014, 09:03 AM   #111
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Hey, Ron.... For the last 10 days I've been testing using fans inside the fridge, to see what if any cooling improvement happens. The results were very discouraging. I've been told removing the fridge is pretty easy but regardless, I'm not willing to take a chance on marring up the panel trim. So, test phase 2, The Baffle in the Sun, will begin, done my way. There's no way I remove the roof hood, so it must insert from the vent below. This plastic sheet is flexible, benign, but strong. Actually, it's left over from my tongue box build. Think I can insert it in two halves, then jam insulation, probably reflectix, up there against the shell, and tack glue in place.
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Old 08-15-2014, 10:03 AM   #112
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insulation on the inside wall behind the fridge

Myron,
I used 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 inch styrofoam from Lowe's for my 6.7 in the 21. I had to cut it in two pieces to fit through the lower opening. The first piece I applied dashes of styro glue and also silicon adhesive as a back up and reached up through the lower vent hole as far as I could reach and stuck it to the wall. I had to use two pieces because the styro would not bend. The second piece with the adhesives was then pushed up through the opening with the intension of it touching the end of the first piece. I accidentally over lapped the two pieces and they were now stuck together and acted like a baffle that was also in the discussion at that time. Now my two computer fans just above the lower opening are forced to blow air over the cooling unit and also the outside wall is insulated from the sun. With the inside fan, the bubble wrap type of insulation on the inside walls six or so holes between the freezer and fridge and using and interchanging the two blue ice packages I can handle the 24 hours of 80 to 102* days with a high of 40* in the fridge. That is good to get us to cooler weather and no problems.
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Old 08-15-2014, 10:15 AM   #113
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Just a thought for those not pulling the fridge and installing things through the opening if you cant see the clearances.

Be careful that what you are installing can handle the high temps of the hot flue exhaust and the exhaust is not blowing on it when running on propane and causing a fire hazard.
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Old 08-15-2014, 10:24 AM   #114
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Jack, can you post pictures of the holes you drilled in the bottom of the freezer and their location to the fridge fix fan kit installed? I'm thinking of doing the same to increase my efficiency, also what size hole/drill bit was used, thanks.
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Old 08-15-2014, 10:33 AM   #115
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I was wondering about the potential for high temperatures from the flue exhaust. But how hot could they be? Hot enough to melt plastic? Sounds like a stretch to me.

Regardless, I'm going to employ your solution, Jack, and add fans back there to keep air moving up and out. I've never noticed the Dometic fans coming on so as a hedge will move my fans from the interior to the back, but will keep their on/off switch inside the fridge.
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Old 08-15-2014, 11:25 AM   #116
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fridge

Jim, the holes are 3/8th and just random spacing, 3 were where I placed the fan fix, the holes were there first and 4 more toward the door about 3" away from the fan fix and evenly spaced.

I put the styro above the vent and a short distance away from the heater.
.I think everything helped just a little and these are steps that had been mentioned except I used all of them plus one or two more.

I chose the hot part of the country and realize I need to adapt when I stay here. We could have done even more building a house here, but that is monday morning items.
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Old 08-15-2014, 01:24 PM   #117
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I was wondering about the potential for high temperatures from the flue exhaust. But how hot could they be? Hot enough to melt plastic? Sounds like a stretch to me.
Not a stretch my any means. Its a flame with a baffle to hold the heat in the boiler area of the fridge. I have measured the flue exhaust well over 160 degrees. Not a good area for plastic or flammable products. Just be careful. I would hate to see someone get hurt.
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Old 08-15-2014, 02:02 PM   #118
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We put in the fridge fix fan kit and head to Austin next week. Temps will be in high 90's, so looking forward to seeing how this will help temps stay down.

Robbie
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Old 08-15-2014, 05:30 PM   #119
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RE... "Its a flame with a baffle to hold the heat in the boiler area of the fridge. I have measured the flue exhaust well over 160 degrees. Not a good area for plastic or flammable products."

This confirms my fridge ignorance. An open flame is back there? I was going to glue aluminum foil to the plastic but now must consider an asbestos sheet.

Have been thinking of drilling holes in my freezer compartment but for now will settle for removing entire thing. Bringing along an ice chest anyway.
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Old 08-15-2014, 05:57 PM   #120
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An open flame is back there?
Yup. Absorption means propane. Propane means a flame.

Made my day Myron. Thanks.
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