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Old 11-16-2016, 09:54 AM   #41
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What's in your toolbox?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Bennett View Post


Jim, that is one fine tool!

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Old 11-16-2016, 09:55 AM   #42
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Gransfors, now that looks like a proper axe. Mine works but it's cumbersome.
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Old 11-16-2016, 10:06 AM   #43
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... I always carry my Gransfors Bruks Small Splitting Axe. I have had it for 10 years now, and that sucker has split many a full round of wood, even knotty stuff. Not cheap, but a quality tool, available at Lee Valley...
I just looked at this axe online at Lee Valley, about $189 for the small splitting axe and $215 for the larger one. Not cheap! I may have to continue to use my claw hammer for splitting wood while I accumulate more funds.
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Old 11-16-2016, 10:13 AM   #44
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Totin'Chip

The Totin Chip is a skill card earned by Boy Scouts. It signifies that the scout understands safety when using, how to maintain, and is allowed to use wood tools including his folding scout knife, hatchet or axe and saw. If the scout is observed being unsafe, a corner is cut off the chip and he is reviewed on safety. Four corners and he has to earn it again. And if I was your Scoutmaster, that second time could be arduous. That said, depending upon the nature of an upcoming camping trip, we carry the following, but not in a tool box however always sheathed, a saw, bow type or folding, Snow and Nealley Hudsons bay hatchet or Norland hatchet or Plumb hand axe. I also have a splitting hatchet, a splitting axe and about 20 other axes but I rarely take any of them. When I want to split wood I use up to three wedges and a 2,3 or 4 pound engineers hammer. Always wear goggles and use leather gloves. Learn to read the medullary rays and dry rounds are easily split. In addition, I have a small heavy duty trowel along which I use in the off season for coyote trapping dirt hole sets and dispatch. I like a good lock back knife for light work and have several. Hoarding, it's a sickness and an advocation. Splitting wood safely and quickly is good exercise until your wrist goes noodley
And if you stick all three wedges, burn the whole piece and dig them out of the ashes.
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Old 11-16-2016, 10:47 AM   #45
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A small axe is MUCH preferred as a hatchet is more of a danger than anything, and does not work as well. I always carry my Gransfors Bruks Small Splitting Axe.

https://www.gransforsbruk.com/en/pro...splitting-axe/
I had looked at the Gransfors when I was shopping for one, I don't use it enough to justify the $. The Fisker X17 looks like a takeoff on it and works fine for resplitting and as a hammer for pounding stakes.

Must say Jim, you don't play around when it comes to tools. Let me know when you're having a retirement tag sale.
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Old 11-16-2016, 11:12 AM   #46
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My 2˘...............You need a persuader sometimes, like when the hitch jaw refuses to seat and must be persuaded, or when wood must be split.

My hammer fills that need nicely but must mention there are different kinds of hammers. A curved "claw" hammer works great for pulling out nails and hammering them in. A "rip" hammer is different. It's "claw" is nearly straight back instead of curved. This makes the claw less functional for pulling nails (rarely needed at campsite) but far more useful as a pry bar and for splitting wood. Sometimes that hitch jaw latch don't want to swing up and needs persuasion. Don't know why its called a rip hammer. I always called them "plumbers" hammers.
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Old 11-16-2016, 11:21 AM   #47
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I carry a small inexpensive splitting axe. We seem to get quite a few campers asking to use our axe when in Alberta and BC campsites and not sure I would want to lend one of those beautiful Gransfors axes.
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Old 11-16-2016, 11:30 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReagentGrade View Post
Jim, that is one fine tool!

Rich
Gransfors Bruks is a great tool. It holds an edge very well. I have used the similar Fiskars, and though it will work, it just does not feel as good in the hands. I plan to pass this off to one of my kids in 20 years or so.
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Must say Jim, you don't play around when it comes to tools. Let me know when you're having a retirement tag sale.
I do have lots of quality tools, I need them in my business. I have duplicates and triplicates of many. My shop is outfitted as is my work trailer.
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Don't know why its called a rip hammer. I always called them "plumbers" hammers.
I have actually never heard that term. To me you are describing what we call a framing hammer, 'cause that's what they are designed for. I have split many a 2x4 on a jobsite with one. This is one I have, a Stiletto. Another tool you don't want to cheap out on if you use it a lot.

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Old 11-16-2016, 11:53 AM   #49
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Yep, rip and claw hammers, rip and crosscut saws, anyone ever use some relative bearing oil on their tools for cleaning?
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Old 11-16-2016, 11:59 AM   #50
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I have the unfortunate situation of retiring from the availability of a completely equipped wood, metal & electronics shop (the electronics shop was mine). I really can't live without them, but it seems I'm trying to make up for it in what I carry.

Everything on Robert's list except the Dremel tool, plus far too much. 3 tool boxes in the trailer (general, electrical & rarely used extras), 3 large parts bins in the truck (fasteners, electrical, misc), along with rarely used extras such as a heat shrink gun, propane sniffer, 12V air compressor, clamp on AC/DC Multimeter (as well as a couple of Harbor Freight multimeters to give to those that don't have one).

While I have many tools, parts & supplies I've never used, I live in fear of needing something that I don't have with me. While a MasterCard provides reassurance, it doesn't do much good 30 miles from the nearest store or bank!
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Old 11-16-2016, 12:03 PM   #51
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I can vouch for Jon's tool and parts assortment, you ask and he has......just what you need. Thanks Jon for being there with your spare(s)....
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Old 11-16-2016, 12:07 PM   #52
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Here are 2 of my father's hand me down tools, notice the model # on the drill as well as where the hand drill was made...
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Old 11-16-2016, 12:50 PM   #53
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Old

Hi Jim,
All this tool talk got me digging!
Pic 1. In case you need to work on your model T Tow Rig, Remember the term Chrome Vanadium Steel?
Pic 2 tie bar for any self respecting retired butcher, Potosi WI bottle opener from the brewery in the old days, Starrett Tools commemorative paper clip from 1955.
Dave
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Old 11-16-2016, 01:51 PM   #54
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So back to those torque wrenches- is there a preferred brand?
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Old 11-16-2016, 02:36 PM   #55
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Torque wrenches: what your wallet can afford. Mine from Canadian Tire ( $60 on sale, half off ).
And, some tools are meant to be owned, even if never used. Schraeder Balloon Tire Gauge.
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Old 11-16-2016, 02:57 PM   #56
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Thanks. I lost a wheel off my boat trailer once- luckily going very slowly- so I probably should have had one a long time ago.
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Old 11-16-2016, 03:14 PM   #57
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So back to those torque wrenches- is there a preferred brand?
I don't think there is a single preferred brand, but this are desirable and undesirable types:I wouldn't carry anything electronic for this purpose, because batteries always seem to be dead just when they're needed on rarely-used tools.
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Old 11-16-2016, 03:35 PM   #58
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I don't think there is a single preferred brand, but there are desirable and undesirable types:I wouldn't carry anything electronic for this purpose, because batteries always seem to be dead just when they're needed on rarely-used tools.
Brian I've had a beam-type for years, learned how to use it in shop class in high school, and it has served me well. I recently bought a micrometer-type and it certainly has it's good points, but I'll never be without my old one.
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Old 11-16-2016, 03:55 PM   #59
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Brian I've had a beam-type for years, learned how to use it in shop class in high school, and it has served me well. I recently bought a micrometer-type and it certainly has it's good points, but I'll never be without my old one.
Good, but for a novice just wanting to hit a specific torque (specifically for wheel nuts), I think the micrometer type is a lot easier to use than reading the pointer position on a beam-type.

I hope all of these things ride around in a protective case (mine does), but if they ever get banged around - something that shouldn't happen - it seems like the pointer of a beam-type is more likely to get damaged.
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Old 11-16-2016, 04:07 PM   #60
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I replaced my beam type with micrometer type when I realized that the pointer was missing. My broken beam type makes a lousy breaker bar because it is designed to bend. Not supposed to use torque wrench as a breaker bar, per instructions.
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