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Old 11-16-2016, 04:08 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Good, but for a novice just wanting to hit a specific torque (specifically for wheel nuts), I think the micrometer type is a lot easier to use than reading the pointer position on a beam-type.

I hope all of these things ride around in a protective case (mine does), but if they ever get banged around - something that shouldn't happen - it seems like the pointer of a beam-type is more likely to get damaged.
I was a mechanic for 38 years (actually I guess I still am one) and I used to use a beam type to check my micrometer wrench for accuracy (put an 8 point socket on it an hook them together). I read somewhere once that a beam never goes out of calibration as long as the pointer points to "0" and it does not rub. I vote for the beam type especially since if you don't have one you can pick one up cheap and just leave it in the trailer. They are plenty accurate for lug nuts.
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Old 11-16-2016, 04:15 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Good, but for a novice just wanting to hit a specific torque (specifically for wheel nuts), I think the micrometer type is a lot easier to use than reading the pointer position on a beam-type.

I hope all of these things ride around in a protective case (mine does), but if they ever get banged around - something that shouldn't happen - it seems like the pointer of a beam-type is more likely to get damaged.
It looks like I'm in danger of getting reported to the Cruelty to Torque Wrench Society. I have 3 beam type that have never been in a protective case. Neither have my micrometer type. After 50 years of using beam type, one lives in the trailer, I thought that I'd be past the novice stage. Oh well, I'll just keep practicing.

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Old 11-16-2016, 04:38 PM   #63
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I just take my trailer to the winner of the annual torquing contest held at the Mississippi River Rally, she out torqued al the men for accuracy.....
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Old 11-16-2016, 05:10 PM   #64
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All this talk about torquing nuts reminds me of an old skit on SNL about the importance of cork soaking and the popularity of those who actually soak corks. A very funny skit........
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Old 11-16-2016, 05:24 PM   #65
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Brian I've had a beam-type for years, learned how to use it in shop class in high school, and it has served me well. I recently bought a micrometer-type and it certainly has it's good points, but I'll never be without my old one.
Sounds good to me but when I was in junior high and high school, girls couldn't take shop, so I didn't learn anything unless my dad taught it to me- and I don't think he owned a torque wrench (or I'd have it now).
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Old 11-16-2016, 05:44 PM   #66
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... Make sure that you do get the Teflon tape to put back your water heater anode. Also need a tool for that, socket wrench I think 1 1/16". Someone else confirm, please.
1 1/16" is correct. Or a 27mm socket will also work. (Replaced my anode last week. Just in time, too. )


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Old 11-16-2016, 06:00 PM   #67
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.....Not sure what you are supposed to ask for these days if you want tape to seal your duct work. Might have to ask that old bugger at HD.
It has to be UL 181B Listed tape. (Which is what we would expect the answer to be characterized as, now days!)
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Old 11-16-2016, 06:20 PM   #68
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What's wrong with a beam type? Hard to use? They are so simple even I can use one. You don't even have to set it up, just put on a socket and push or pull. Might not be quite as accurate, but these are lug nuts, not head bolts.

Easy to damage? Don't see anything delicate on mine.
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Old 11-16-2016, 07:12 PM   #69
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Old 11-16-2016, 07:34 PM   #70
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I've never heard of a broken micrometer-type torque wrench; I have heard of damaged pointers on beam-type wrenches. Maybe it's not an issue, and baglo is just a klutz?

Quote:
Originally Posted by AKCamper View Post
I was a mechanic for 38 years (actually I guess I still am one) and I used to use a beam type to check my micrometer wrench for accuracy (put an 8 point socket on it an hook them together). I read somewhere once that a beam never goes out of calibration as long as the pointer points to "0" and it does not rub.
I agree about staying in calibration; it depends only on the spring stiffness and zero setting, and the spring is the beam so that doesn't change with time. The same is true of a click/micrometer type wrench, but the zero can drift if the wrench is left set, rather than returning it to zero after each use.

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I vote for the beam type especially since if you don't have one you can pick one up cheap and just leave it in the trailer. They are plenty accurate for lug nuts.
Both types are available cheaply; both types are more than accurate enough.

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It looks like I'm in danger of getting reported to the Cruelty to Torque Wrench Society.


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What's wrong with a beam type? Hard to use? They are so simple even I can use one.
It's certainly simple - you just have to read the quivering needle against the scale while applying torque.

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Originally Posted by Bobbie54 View Post
So back to those torque wrenches- is there a preferred brand?
So, Bobbie... it seems the consensus is to buy anything called a "torque wrench" with a 1/2" drive end, and be happy.
As for the brand... if you're buying really cheap, I see an advantage of the beam-type: as long as the scale is printed at the right size, there's nothing to mess up in the design, so it's the safe way to go.
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Old 11-16-2016, 07:47 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
I've never heard of a broken micrometer-type torque wrench; I have heard of damaged pointers on beam-type wrenches. Maybe it's not an issue, and baglo is just a klutz?
I am a klutz, but I wasn't using it, hadn't used it for probably 20 years. Went to get it from the tool box and there was no pointer.
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Old 11-16-2016, 10:01 PM   #72
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Torque wrench

I have a permit to carry this bad boy. It was issued by Thoer after I took an online course from Trump University. It only cost $4,600.00 Here I'm shown on my way to study for a midterm exam down in my shop. The semi concealed waistband carry is an approved method. Just one thing I learnt.
Proto 1/2 in drive, 30 to 150 ft lbs. Contest tested.
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Old 11-16-2016, 10:14 PM   #73
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Old 11-16-2016, 10:22 PM   #74
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I have a permit to carry this bad boy. It was issued by Thoer after I took an online course from Trump University. It only cost $4,600.00 Here I'm shown on my way to study for a midterm exam down in my shop. The semi concealed waistband carry is an approved method. Just one thing I learnt.
Proto 1/2 in drive, 30 to 150 ft lbs. Contest tested.
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Old 11-16-2016, 10:29 PM   #75
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I have a permit to carry this bad boy. It was issued by Thoer after I took an online course from Trump University. It only cost $4,600.00 Here I'm shown on my way to study for a midterm exam down in my shop. The semi concealed waistband carry is an approved method. Just one thing I learnt.
Proto 1/2 in drive, 30 to 150 ft lbs. Contest tested.
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Now tha's a bass ass.
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Old 11-16-2016, 10:30 PM   #76
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Old 11-17-2016, 12:20 AM   #77
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I thought that I read somewhere that some users have some kind of adaptor that goes into a cordless drill to more easily move the stabilizers up and down when setting up and taking down to save on elbow grease. We have a 17B on order being picked up in the new year and this adaptor/ socket end might be a good stocking stuffer/gift to ask for at Christmas. Anyone got a photo of what this looks like and what size the socket end needs to be please?

Thanks much.
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Old 11-17-2016, 12:22 AM   #78
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I thought that I read somewhere that some users have some kind of adaptor that goes into a cordless drill to more easily move the stabilizers up and down when setting up and taking down to save on elbow grease. We have a 17B on order being picked up in the new year and this adaptor/ socket end might be a good stocking stuffer/gift to ask for at Christmas. Anyone got a photo of what this looks like and what size the socket end needs to be please?

Thanks much.
A 3/4" socket does the trick.
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Old 11-17-2016, 01:41 AM   #79
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I thought that I read somewhere that some users have some kind of adaptor that goes into a cordless drill to more easily move the stabilizers up and down when setting up and taking down to save on elbow grease. We have a 17B on order being picked up in the new year and this adaptor/ socket end might be a good stocking stuffer/gift to ask for at Christmas. Anyone got a photo of what this looks like and what size the socket end needs to be please?
Quote:
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A 3/4" socket does the trick.
... but just a normal socket doesn't fit a drill. You also need an adapter which fits into the drill chuck and has the square drive end which fits normal sockets.

Some RV stores sell a one-piece version (3/4" socket on the end of a shaft, such as the Camco 57363), but there's no need for a special tool like that (although it's only a few dollars so might make a good stocking stuffer)... and many of them have a round shaft instead of the triangular or hexagonal shaft which would be easier for the drill to hold.

If instead of a drill you have a cordless driver with a 1/4" hex socket (instead of a chuck to hold drill bits), you can get sockets that plug directly into it because they have a 1/4" hexagonal shaft; they work in a regular drill, too.
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Old 11-17-2016, 01:44 AM   #80
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I thought that I read somewhere that some users have some kind of adaptor that goes into a cordless drill to more easily move the stabilizers up and down when setting up and taking down to save on elbow grease. We have a 17B on order being picked up in the new year and this adaptor/ socket end might be a good stocking stuffer/gift to ask for at Christmas. Anyone got a photo of what this looks like and what size the socket end needs to be please?

Thanks much.
I have this one. Fits basically any common 3/8" drill.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N0IHMXM..._0fvlyb8CN0V1K
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