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Old 11-10-2021, 03:58 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Mike Lewis View Post
I would like to replace my fridge with a compressor fridge. I'm looking at the NovaKool RFU 6800 but its 5.2 amp current draw gives me pause. So I intend to run an experiment to simulate the current draw of a compressor fridge on my trailer's 12V electrical system. I want to plug an incandescent bulb into the inverter, leave the trailer parked in the sun, then turn on the light and leave it on for several days while monitoring the batteries. Since the compressor doesn't run all of the time, what amperage should I try to draw with my experiment?

I know this won't be an exact simulation-- for instance, it doesn't account for opening the fridge door, which anyone who has seen me knows is a frequent occurrence. But it will give me some information. Right now I doubt my 12V system could keep up, but I'd like to test it.
Well, if I am understanding this correctly, I think it is simple math. If your new RFU6800 draws X when running, then if the duty cycle is 50%, your continuous simulated amp draw is X/2.

Hopefully, someone with an RFU6800 can suggest a real world duty cycle, which includes frequent access to cold goodies.
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Old 11-10-2021, 04:14 PM   #42
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For most compressor fridges they require air flow that comes in from the bottom of the fridge, rises behind the fridge and exits through the top of the fridge. I think it is something like 30 square inches of ventilation for top and bottom. The beauty of the RFU8220 is all the venting is done through the bottom making it a breeze for installation. As I mentioned before Novakool does recommend a higher vent to let hot air escape, but the existing venting for your absorption fridge should be more than enough.
I found the people at Novakool extremely responsive to my questions. They even invited me to their plant to see their production and ask any questions I might have. They are manufactured in Burnaby, a suburb of Vancouver so it was easy for me to visit them.
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Old 11-10-2021, 04:56 PM   #43
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great!
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Old 11-10-2021, 05:56 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by alanmalk View Post
Well, if I am understanding this correctly, I think it is simple math. If your new RFU6800 draws X when running, then if the duty cycle is 50%, your continuous simulated amp draw is X/2.

Hopefully, someone with an RFU6800 can suggest a real world duty cycle, which includes frequent access to cold goodies.

I ended up using a combination of one large screw-in LED bulb powered by the inverter and a couple of the trailer's LED lights to give me a constant draw of three amps. I'll leave this on for a while and check it at this time every day.
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Old 11-11-2021, 01:16 AM   #45
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My RFU8320 fit through the door of my 2012 19 but it was not plug and play. The cooling air flow is the same as for the refer I removed; air from outside into the bottom section with the dc compressor, up the back to cool the condensing coils and out the top vent exiting the trailer. It was a lot of work to carefully trim out the refer opening larger so it would fit. Still going strong and I would do it again. BTW, my duty cycle is around 50% and I'm running four 6 volt AGM batteries with lots of solar installed. Sean's refer is identical to mine but vents inside the trailer.
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Old 11-15-2021, 07:19 PM   #46
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I ended up using a combination of one large screw-in LED bulb powered by the inverter and a couple of the trailer's LED lights to give me a constant draw of three amps. I'll leave this on for a while and check it at this time every day.

The initial conditions were: 400 Ah of lithium batteries charged to 100%, 355W of rooftop solar. The constant draw was 3-3.5 amps. I ended the experiment early because the weather was too good-- mostly sunny. The batteries didn't go below about 86%. I'll try again closer to the winter solstice when a string of cloudy days is predicted, and leave the heater on this time.
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Old 11-23-2021, 06:53 PM   #47
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I ordered my 2019 Escape 19 without the fridge, had them eliminate the outside vent, kept the roof vent for added air circulation. I then got Escape to customize the cabinet cut out to accommodate my Nova Kool RFU8220, 7.3 cu ft fridge/freezer. This was the largest fridge I could get and still fit through the Escape door. I had to remove the Nova Kool door but that was very easy. The fridge draws about 4.5 amps when running but only runs 25 -50% of the time depending on ambient temperature. I also added 4 x 100A Lithium batteries. Extremely happy with the result
Am I reading in these posts that the stock fridge in the 2nd gen fifth wheel (mine is a 2019) can be taken out through the door without removing the frame? Would the 7.3 cubic foot fridge that Sean used fit in the 5.0?
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Old 11-23-2021, 07:50 PM   #48
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Am I reading in these posts that the stock fridge in the 2nd gen fifth wheel (mine is a 2019) can be taken out through the door without removing the frame?
I think not, see this thread: Removing Dometic DM2663 refrigerator.

My 2021 5.0 has the same 22-7/8" entry door inside clearance that Gus mentions for his 2019 E19; methinks that all of the current generation Escapes are the same but that's easy enough for you to verify on yours.

My OE 2021 reefer is the DM2683, its minimum width dimension also corresponds to the 24-3/4" of the DM2663 Gus was dealing with (I've not checked to see if the depth is less).

When I finally get around to the installation of a compressor reefer I'll confirm all of these dimensions but I'll be ready for full entry door frame removal, I'll want to extract the OE 3-way unit intact so I can resell it as a functional unit. Yeah, a bit of extra effort but IMO worthwhile, it'll also make getting the new unit into the trailer easier.

Have Fun!
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Old 11-24-2021, 10:19 AM   #49
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Hopefully the depth of the fridge is less than the width . In the case of the Novakool I installed the depth was less than the width and is what made it possible to get through the door without removing the frame. Had to remove the Novakool fridge door, but that is easy
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