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Old 06-23-2020, 09:09 PM   #1
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12V drops cost vs. DIY

Question: I want to have under cabinet Puck lights In our 21NE build. Escape wants to charge me __$ each 12v drop. Would I be 1) money ahead and 2) easy to splice into the wiring for the under cabinet pancakes to DIY/add additional under cabinet lights myself?
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Old 06-23-2020, 09:21 PM   #2
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Hi John: FWIW, we went with ETI installed 12-volt drops in the upper cabinets on both driver and passenger sides, even though I have the equipment for fishing wires and experience doing it. For us, the question came down to how much hassle it would be to fish the wires neatly behind the vinyl liner. Others can comment on their experiences with this… We decided our time modifying the trailer could be spent in other ways… I’m reasonably certain you will end up using the drops for various purposes, including lighting and will be glad to have them in place. Thanks! — Claude
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Old 06-23-2020, 09:24 PM   #3
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Some drops are easier than others. Front Drivers side in the 19 is easy! Rear Drivers side less so but still doable. What is your time worth? Count on half a day if doing all four corners yourself and that is if you have all the bits and pieces.
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Old 06-23-2020, 09:39 PM   #4
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Thanksl

Perspective of others who have made this journey before is awesome for me to tap into.
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Old 06-23-2020, 10:39 PM   #5
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In the end it comes down to how much you enjoy DIY stuff. Sometimes it doesn't even make economic sense to DIY but to hard core DIYers, so what, they enjoy doing it. Not to mention any names of course.

So, if you like doing things like that, go for it. If not, pay for it and it's done.

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Old 06-24-2020, 02:42 AM   #6
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We ordered the captains reading lights in all four corners. Not because we wanted the lights, but I thought it would be nice to have the 12 volts available. One of the forum members used the wiring from a captains light for a Maradyne 12 volt fan. That's what I plan to do.

If I wanted to run more wires, if I couldn't fish it, I would just make if pieces of trim to match, and rip a groove to hide or hold the wires in place.
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Old 06-24-2020, 05:58 AM   #7
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If you plan, you can keep your drops to a minimum. One drop, depending on Escape model, can do 3-4 o/h cabinets. In addition getting an extra 12 outlet which is the same cost gives you both power and an accessory outlet in the lower cabinets and one can supply the entire "U' area in dinette, one in kitchen and one under bed. So between 4-5 drops or extra 12v you should have access if needed. I have yet to tap into all of mine, but it is comforting they are already there.
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Old 06-24-2020, 06:31 AM   #8
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Claude’s (MadCAT3) comment about time seems extremely pertinent to me. For those who know the layout of the 5.0TA, my spouse constantly complained about having to hold the tread on the second step open to access the storage area, having to grab stored items with only the other hand, and not being able to see inside because it was so dark. I sure wish I had known it would cause her such distress and I had paid ETI for a wire drop in the step. I spliced into the wiring for the 12v outlet in the outside storage cabinet (with the drawer that faces the stairs to the sleeping loft) to pick up power. Given the lack of any slack in the wires it was a PITA. I also had to work by feel to install a 12v light in the open area under the third step. I had already decided not to make the “conversion” to third step storage because I had asked Reace about it during my build and he said he considered the third step’s tread to be “structural.” By the time I got the light installed, added framing for one of the retainers ETI uses to hold cabinets open, and a “normally on” push switch so that when the step was closed, the light would go off I had spent about 8 hours cutting the added framing, determining exactly where the retainer and switch had to be attached to work properly, and making everything neat. I probably would have saved 3 hours if the wire drop was already there. While it is one of the three most time consuming mods I have made, it was the one I least enjoyed doing. She, however, is of the opinion that it is the best mod. Unless you have a lot of time and are not usually frustrated when unforeseen frustrations crop up, paying ETI for adding wire drops might be well worth the cost.
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Old 06-24-2020, 06:53 AM   #9
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If I were wanted lights in the mentioned spaces and did not have the drops, I would consider battery lights. Don't use them that much to constantly replace batteries
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Old 06-24-2020, 07:00 AM   #10
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That is exactly what I did until I got around to installing hardwired. As it was, I did not replace all the battery lights as they were working fine.
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Old 06-24-2020, 08:34 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johndep View Post
Question: I want to have under cabinet Puck lights In our 21NE build. Escape wants to charge me __$ each 12v drop. Would I be 1) money ahead and 2) easy to splice into the wiring for the under cabinet pancakes to DIY/add additional under cabinet lights myself?
Have them install a single 12v drop in every cabinet bank, ie. one drop in one of the overhead cabinets above the dinette. You can fish the wires between cabinets easily enough, but getting through the walls where there no cabinets can be tough. The cost is minimal in the long run. Besides it gives you flexibility in the future.
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Old 06-24-2020, 11:10 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 75thRanger View Post
If I were wanted lights in the mentioned spaces and did not have the drops, I would consider battery lights. Don't use them that much to constantly replace batteries
We are using battery motion sensor lights. The one in the bath is used most (night time trips), it's been a year and I just replaced the batteries as it seems to be getting dim. Haven't changed batteries in the others (wardrobe and under stairs in 5.0TA).
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Old 06-24-2020, 03:04 PM   #13
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I just added one 12V outlet in the bed overhead that I figure I can tap off of and route through the upper cabinets as needed for reading lights etc.



Similarly in the front dinette, I can tap off the existing cabin lights mounted to the underside of the overhead cabs as needed. Wiremold wire covers come in colors and you can tuck them away in the upper cabs where you'd never see them, or for that matter vertically against a bulkhead corner.


The main thing is assuring there's SOME available power in each area that's separated, as routing through the vinyl/insulation would be beyond reasonable!
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Old 06-24-2020, 03:58 PM   #14
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Any corner that has a removable pad (one screw) likely has a red and black wire running up it. This is what ETI would be tapping into to give you your 12 volt drop.

If not, it is easy to run your wires behind these pads. Once the wires are up they can be stuffed between the liner and the cabinets or behind the window valances.

The fuse panel also has some empty slots so you can hook up your new wire properly and not add onto an existing circuit.

There are some pictures of exposed wiring in my modifications link at the bottom of the page.
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Old 06-24-2020, 04:59 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by felix2 View Post

The main thing is assuring there's SOME available power in each area that's separated, as routing through the vinyl/insulation would be beyond reasonable!
As has been pointed out after market wiring can be run pretty much anywhere.

Yup, even behind the vinyl/insulation as those of us who had Classic 19s did to install a light over the dinette table.

Ron
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Old 06-24-2020, 07:47 PM   #16
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Wow! All this input has been fantastic! I now a lot to think about - Thank you all!
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