A Bunch of Stuff

[Vermilye]

I'm almost finished with a bunch of modifications to my Escape 17B. None of them were absolutely necessary, but I like to putter, and our mild winter & early spring got me out & working. I added a page at my website with photos & descriptions of the modifications: Trailer Modifications.

[Sandra L]

Great ideas! Some questions: Since I belong to the Baglo school of no holes (thus far), I am wondering how you did the bath mirror and the strips for the closet shelves. It appears that the vertical strips are fastened by screws, but how long are they? Are they glued as well? Is the mirror glued too?
Thanks for the ideas.

[gbaglo]

This paper towel holder is on the underside of the cabinet above the sink. I attached it in July 2008 with double sided tape with intention of adding screws once I was satisfied with the location. Haven't gotten around to installing the screws.

This instrument panel is made of 1 x 4 oak and held up with double sided tape since Sept. 2008. No screws.

I used the cheaper white 3M hooks in the shower. The squeegee is great for wiping the shower down after use.

baglo

[gbaglo]

First two pix didn't make it in previous post.

Trying again

[gbaglo]

I'm getting only one pic per post.

Squeegee

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Sandra L

Great ideas! Some questions: Since I belong to the Baglo school of no holes (thus far), I am wondering how you did the bath mirror and the strips for the closet shelves. It appears that the vertical strips are fastened by screws, but how long are they? Are they glued as well? Is the mirror glued too?
Thanks for the ideas.

Although I'm not all that big on "no holes", since many of the wall materials are too thin to hold a screw well I often use double sided foam tape. That's what holds the bathroom mirror. The strips in the closet are 1/2" Oak attached with Gorilla Glue & screws. The screws only hold it until the glue dries. I wanted to use adjustable fasteners, and didn't feel the walls were thick enough to hold the pins.

Klaus in the "Removable Shelves in Wardrobe Closet" thread used These brackets from Amazon which is a faster & simpler idea.

[gbaglo]

One more time

Mirror on bathroom door is made of plexiglass. Reace recommended NOT to attach a glass mirror ( it's heavier and can break ). This is held up with double sided tape for some three years.

Finally figured out posting pix...

The last is 3M hook that has a capacity of 5 lbs. and has held up several large wet coats. It's been there three years. Should be noted that the 3M hook comes with extra adhesive pads should you wish to move it to another location. I've got seven of these hooks, mostly 3 lb. capacity and none of them has fallen off in three years.

[gbaglo]

Paper towel holder

[escape artist]

Hi: All...The bathroom door mirror I put on in 2008 is held in place with Lepages No More Nails. Comes in a roll and is very sticky with some 1/8th" thickness. Just make sure it's straight before sticking...you won't get a second chance!!! Still stuck after all these years. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[Jim Bennett]

Alf, hopefully that mirror lasts for you, as the only way you can remove it using that adhesive would be to rip the skin off the door.

[escape artist]

Hi: Jim Bennett... "Mirror mirror on the wall...who's the farest of them all". I don't mind it being permanent as it makes me look 10#s slimmer and 3"s taller. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[Jim Bennett]

LMOA
I want one of those.

[Vermilye]

At the bottom of the link are the latest modifications to my 17B.

[Parker]

Hi Jon,

We really enjoyed meeting you at Niagara and seeing a few of your mods and photos.

Question: Is the Hopkins Level Light visible in bright sunlight? I really like that idea, and the fact that it's still of reasonable size compared to some of the larger levels that would probably work fine, but I can't quite bring myself to stick one on the front of the Escape.

Thanks,
Parker

[Vermilye]

I haven't tried it with the sun shining directly into the front of the level, but it has been visible in bright daylight. So far, it has worked great. I'll get a better idea once I start traveling in mid October.

[Parker]

Thanks. Might go ahead and add one. The level on the back really isn't adequate for backing up onto wedges, especially with a bike rack and two bikes back there.

[gbaglo]

I've wondered why the levels on my trailer are where they are. Front to back is on the passenger side, so I have to walk around the car and the side-to-side is at the back ( why not the front? ). I plan to add a couple, if I ever get around to it.

[Parker]

It's interesting, where levels are sometimes installed. Level is level, no matter where the indicator is located. I've always installed a front-to-back level right at the tongue jack so I can look at it while cranking up or down.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Parker

It's interesting, where levels are sometimes installed. Level is level, no matter where the indicator is located. I've always installed a front-to-back level right at the tongue jack so I can look at it while cranking up or down.

I also added one to the tongue. Doesn't help much for side to side, but it is useful for leveling front to back. Only problem is I'm probably going to break it hanging the safety chains over the tongue.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

I've wondered why the levels on my trailer are where they are. Front to back is on the passenger side, so I have to walk around the car and the side-to-side is at the back ( why not the front? ). I plan to add a couple, if I ever get around to it.

I added one to the front to see quicker where I am side to side. On the back is better for an assistant if you have one. I like Jon's idea of putting a front-to-back level on the hitch area somewhere.