Added exterior shower / spray port

[rubicon327]

Have a traditional shower on the driver’s side but have envied the spray port setup with faucet on the passenger side that some have. Very convenient to wash hands, fill a pot, etc. The planning for where it would land was the hardest as I had no reference on the exterior and I needed to ensure I could accomplish the piping inside with the Flair-it fittings that have a large nut that screws on. Pre-assembled the piping at the table which helped tremendously. Another hard part was connecting to the existing supply pipes due to limited space. Good thing that PEX is flexible. It came out well and it was watertight when I leak tested with city water. One thing to note is that the bypass valve I used to attempt both isolation and gravity drain (for cold weather when inside plumbing would still be active) unfortunately does not completely hold under pressure in bypass. This was disappointing. I don’t have the room for Sharkbite ball valves with drain so these will be replaced with a simple Flair-it stop valve. I will also be insulating the inside enclosure under the sink with Reflectix to restore some insulating value to the area.

The unit used is the same one available now as an Escape option:
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Fresh-Wa.../PF247201.html

[Eggscape]

Looks great...it is going to be a little bit of a mind bender on the best way to insulate it.
Maybe something simple like a square of soft foam stuffed in before you close the door. This would allow heat to reach the taps but not so much exscape out the door.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Have a traditional shower on the driver’s side but have envied the spray port setup with faucet on the passenger side that some have. Very convenient to wash hands, fill a pot, etc. The planning for where it would land was the hardest as I had no reference on the exterior and I needed to ensure I could accomplish the piping inside with the Flair-it fittings that have a large nut that screws on. Pre-assembled the piping at the table which helped tremendously. Another hard part was connecting to the existing supply pipes due to limited space. Good thing that PEX is flexible. It came out well and it was watertight when I leak tested with city water. One thing to note is that the bypass valve I used to attempt both isolation and gravity drain (for cold weather when inside plumbing would still be active) unfortunately does not completely hold under pressure in bypass. This was disappointing. I don’t have the room for Sharkbite ball valves with drain so these will be replaced with a simple Flair-it stop valve. I will also be insulating the inside enclosure under the sink with Reflectix to restore some insulating value to the area.

The unit used is the same one available now as an Escape option:
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Fresh-Wa.../PF247201.html

You sure have been busy ! Nice work ! Pat

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

Looks great...it is going to be a little bit of a mind bender on the best way to insulate it.
Maybe something simple like a square of soft foam stuffed in before you close the door. This would allow heat to reach the taps but not so much exscape out the door.

Thanks. My thought on insulation was on the interior of the enclosure to reduce heat loss in cold weather. The internal plastic check valves were removed from the faucet valves and the intention of my bypass valve arrangement was to isolate and gravity drain the final section. It unfortunately didn’t hold in bypass under city water pressure but mine is pretty high and I didn’t use a regulator. I’m going to try again with lower pump pressure which is the mode we would use it in anyway.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

The internal plastic check valves were removed from the faucet valves and the intention of my bypass valve arrangement was to isolate and gravity drain the final section. It unfortunately didn’t hold in bypass under city water pressure but mine is pretty high and I didn’t use a regulator. I’m going to try again with lower pump pressure which is the mode we would use it in anyway.

Valves didn’t hold with 55psi pump pressure either. The only thing I can think of is that this type of valve is meant to bypass water but not hold a tight shutoff with that high of a pressure.

[sclifrickson]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Valves didn’t hold with 55psi pump pressure either. The only thing I can think of is that this type of valve is meant to bypass water but not hold a tight shutoff with that high of a pressure.

That’s a bummer. Cheap valves?

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

That’s a bummer. Cheap valves?

I didn’t think so when I was buying them. I just think they aren’t able to hold against the high differential since they are meant as a bypass valve. I have the one port capped which was to be my drain.

https://www.amazon.com/Flair-16910-P...a-451390233988

I should have used these. 20/20 hindsight.
https://www.sharkbite.com/products/b...lve-drain-vent

But of course these are longer and I would have had to mount the spray port even higher. Remember I was trying to get a gravity drain of the shower.

[rubicon327]

Another thought is the valves are directional. Technically as a bypass valve I should have the common port down facing the water source. Because I was trying an isolate and gravity drain strategy the common port is facing up towards the shower. I don’t recall markings on the valves but I’ll look closer. The regular Flair-it shutoff valves I just received are directional.

[sclifrickson]

Post pics when you’re done [emoji1303]

[Jim Bennett]

I added my own exterior shower port too. An easy project. I had no reason to add valves and just tied it in to the sink lines. We have use ours lots, as if nice we cook and clean outside. Great to refill the dog bowl too.

[GoCampBC]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I added my own exterior shower port too. An easy project. I had no reason to add valves and just tied it in to the sink lines. We have use ours lots, as if nice we cook and clean outside. Great to refill the dog bowl too.

We do most cooking and cleaning outside and had the exterior shower installed for this purpose. We just ordered a flexspout from eTrailer a couple days ago and will use a bus bin (rectangle bin) on a table as a sink. Is this similar to what you guys are doing to create an outdoor wet kitchen?

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by GoCampBC

We do most cooking and cleaning outside and had the exterior shower installed for this purpose. We just ordered a flexspout from eTrailer a couple days ago and will use a bus bin (rectangle bin) on a table as a sink. Is this similar to what you guys are doing to create an outdoor wet kitchen?

Exactly what we do. Most places this setup gets done right when we set up camp.

[cpaharley2008]

I found using one of the crispers from refer for a o/s sink eliminated having to carry an "extra" item.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by sclifrickson

Post pics when you’re done [emoji1303]

Ok fixed it right up with new isolation valves. Since they were the same size they went right in as replacements. Removing the assemblies and working at the table was much easier than trying to install under the sink. Had a tiny drip when pressure testing so had to remove the cold leg again and do a new piece of PEX on the bottom. Came out well and isolating perfectly. I’m not sure why I didn’t think about this sooner but I can still drain the outside assembly. I will turn off the pump, open the outside shower valves and then open the low point drain (only older models have one). This should drain the assembly. Then come inside and close the isolation valves and reengergize the plumbing. The point of this is for cold weather when pulling from an internal tank. All piping in the 19 with water is then inside the heated space.

The second picture is of the original exterior shower on the driver’s side. This has an insulated enclosure that the original owner made but that makes it more prone to freeze. I will probably add isolation valves here too. Note that if you try this you must remove the little check valves that are within the inlets or the water will not drain back out of the assembly. If you just want the ability to isolate you don’t need to worry about this.

[Mucram]

This is timely as outside shower apparatus started leaking after a cold night coming home from az. My nice plumber neighbor is going to put turn off valves & replace the unit with new one received from etrailer. What have folks done to insulate this problem prone outside hatch? Pictures would be helpful. Refectix?

[Mark James]

Jim where exactly did you put it? Which side and how high?

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Mark James

Jim where exactly did you put it? Which side and how high?

If you are referring to me Mark (lots of Jim's here) I put it as far to the rear as possible to keep it from the door and still allow use of the coiled hose in the back, and kept it high enough that it was above a wash basin on a table, 36+" off the ground to the bottom of hatch.

[cpaharley2008]

Dave,
Your thought process was exactly mine in trying to correct the stock install of the exterior showers (I have 2) I was going to try to do. Although no low point drain I thought of replumbing each with the source from above with a shut off valve, that way I can turn off the source open the exterior to allow drain and keep the interior warm. I used antifreeze last year and ran it thru each port and then filled the exterior area with bubble wrap from packages I have received. Made it thru the winter without leaks. But I want to tackle this as an extra margin of safety.

[cpaharley2008]

I picked up 4 extra metal shut off valves when I picked up the Escape last May. They are the type you see for the toilet shut off option. these were what I was going to use. I also have 4 "shark" type valves somewhere in the basement, I just have to find them.

[UCEZ]

I'm installing an outside shower box on an E19, but haven never worked on fiberglass. The cutting looks straight forward, but nervous about the screws. From what I've researched it looks like the recommendation is to use tape (like cutting) and a slightly larger pilot hole than for wood. Do you use sealant on the screws as well? Any thoughts on the size/length of screw needed.