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02-26-2019, 02:23 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Trailer: 2019 escape 21
Posts: 23
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Adding cabinet lighting
Would like to eventually add "cabinet lites" inside the upper glassed doors over the bed of our soon to be built 21. My question is: If I order the standard location for TV coaxial with 12V outlet, would I then be able to wire my 12 volt lites directly to the backside of this outlet and use a remote to control them? Thanks
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02-26-2019, 03:16 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Trailer: 2019 escape 21
Posts: 23
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So with your system I could also connect to 120V with an AC/DC adapter, correct? Also, do I need to be concerned with any appreciable heat build up inside the cabinets?
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02-26-2019, 03:22 PM
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#4
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21 - "Felicity"
Posts: 2,945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SFmiguel
Would like to eventually add "cabinet lites" inside the upper glassed doors over the bed of our soon to be built 21. My question is: If I order the standard location for TV coaxial with 12V outlet, would I then be able to wire my 12 volt lites directly to the backside of this outlet and use a remote to control them? Thanks
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Difficult to access the back side of that socket with the other electrical box there; just pay ETI to provide a 12V "drop" in that area that you can splice onto. Well worth the $25 or so they charge. Usually about 6 ft of power&ground coiled up for future expansion.
__________________
Charlie Y
Need custom storage to your design? Don't drill holes!
www.RVWidgetWorks.com
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02-26-2019, 03:32 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Trailer: 2019 escape 21
Posts: 23
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Did not know I could have that done. I'll do the same in the cabinets over the dinette to have the same lighting option. Thank you
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02-26-2019, 06:02 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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The 12v drops are now $50 and if you have them install the round 12v outlet for the same price, you can remove the assembly and gain access to the 12v power from the front of the cabinet.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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02-26-2019, 06:36 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
Trailer: 2019 escape 21
Posts: 23
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You are correct sir. I just talked to our sales rep and we're having 2 12V "drops" installed in the over head cabinets, one fore and one aft @ $50 each. Don't really have a need for the outlets, I don't think. While I have your attention: I asked for 2 extra exterior lites, one in the front over the storage box and one in the rear. I thought I had read that these could be connected to an interior switch, but she said no.
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02-26-2019, 07:38 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Each exterior light has it's own switch, the one by the door on the curb side has an interior switch, they used to wire all the exterior to an interior switch in the past, for an additional charge.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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03-02-2019, 12:13 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Trailer: 2019 5.0 TA
Posts: 864
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12 volt drop questions
There doesn't seem to be a lot of information regarding the snaking of wiring after the build. I have a 5.0 on order and planning to install a WeBoost in the area above the microwave or refrigerator.
In a 5.0 (a 21 should be the same) I will need 12 volt power either above the refrigerator or the microwave cabinet. I understand I can have a 12 volt line dropped there, but I am wondering how difficult it would be if I have the 12v drop go into the cabinet above the back wall (dinette area) and snake the wire to the We Boost area. My thought is should I someday want 12v in the dinette area or going into the kitchen area I have a closer 12v source.
I suppose the stove vent would be another source in the kitchen area. I know there might be other and better ways to accomplish this but my main reason for these questions is to get a better understanding of what is involved in accessing power after the build.
Another question, has anyone snaked wires across the ceiling from one side to the other? How else might someone get access from one side to the other? I haven't intentions to do this, just wondering how that might be accomplished.
__________________
The Sweet Suite
Ronn and Colleen
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03-02-2019, 01:30 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Oswego, New York
Trailer: 2017 Escape 21C, 2018 Ford F150
Posts: 5,363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronn
There doesn't seem to be a lot of information regarding the snaking of wiring after the build. I have a 5.0 on order and planning to install a WeBoost in the area above the microwave or refrigerator.
In a 5.0 (a 21 should be the same) I will need 12 volt power either above the refrigerator or the microwave cabinet. I understand I can have a 12 volt line dropped there, but I am wondering how difficult it would be if I have the 12v drop go into the cabinet above the back wall (dinette area) and snake the wire to the We Boost area. My thought is should I someday want 12v in the dinette area or going into the kitchen area I have a closer 12v source.
I suppose the stove vent would be another source in the kitchen area. I know there might be other and better ways to accomplish this but my main reason for these questions is to get a better understanding of what is involved in accessing power after the build.
Another question, has anyone snaked wires across the ceiling from one side to the other? How else might someone get access from one side to the other? I haven't intentions to do this, just wondering how that might be accomplished.
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While not across the ceiling, I did add a central overhead light (before they became standard) to my Escape 17B. Here is a bit of description. Essentially, it involves using a sharp, stiff wire to burrow through the foam under the vinyl surface. Doable, but a mistake could be ugly!
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03-02-2019, 01:30 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Kelowna, British Columbia
Trailer: 2018 Escape 19
Posts: 2,716
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Hi Ronn
There is a high amp 12 volt run of cable at the rear of the fridge that you can use. Most people never run their fridge on 12 volts and it is just a waste to have this line sitting there not used. Keep in mind you still need the original wires attached as the fridge does need some 12 volts to run, even on propane.
If you are mounting something on the roof that needs power, just run the wires into the roof top fridge vent, down and through a fuse to this power source. No holes...no extra cables to the panel.
In the next few months I will be writing up in detail a whole series of items that will be using this power source in Modifications to Eggscape.
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03-02-2019, 01:48 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - upgraded version
Posts: 2,697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronn
There doesn't seem to be a lot of information regarding the snaking of wiring after the build. I have a 5.0 on order and planning to install a WeBoost in the area above the microwave or refrigerator.
In a 5.0 (a 21 should be the same) I will need 12 volt power either above the refrigerator or the microwave cabinet. I understand I can have a 12 volt line dropped there, but I am wondering how difficult it would be if I have the 12v drop go into the cabinet above the back wall (dinette area) and snake the wire to the We Boost area. My thought is should I someday want 12v in the dinette area or going into the kitchen area I have a closer 12v source.
I suppose the stove vent would be another source in the kitchen area. I know there might be other and better ways to accomplish this but my main reason for these questions is to get a better understanding of what is involved in accessing power after the build.
Another question, has anyone snaked wires across the ceiling from one side to the other? How else might someone get access from one side to the other? I haven't intentions to do this, just wondering how that might be accomplished.
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Running a wire to either above the microwave or refrigerator is fairly easy. Run the wiring from the converter 12v panel down the back of the bottom cabinets below the fridge/microwave stack and then come up the back of either stack.
Look at the build pic attached - in the back of the bottom cabinets on the right is where Escape runs a wiring bundle to the devices on that side of the trailer.
The wiring runs along the top of the wheel wells next to the trailer shell and then runs up where needed to each device. The panel in the back of each cabinet is open at the top enough to be able to pull new wiring from cabinet to cabinet. There is a space between the back of the bottom cabinets and the trailer shell making a wiring chase.
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
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03-02-2019, 02:40 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronn
Another question, has anyone snaked wires across the ceiling from one side to the other? How else might someone get access from one side to the other? I haven't intentions to do this, just wondering how that might be accomplished.
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Personally in a 21 or 5.0 I would try using the full upper cabinets across the back. If you are starting down low you can remove the wood panel behind the dinette table or if u-shaped dinette use the back bench area to come across and then go vertical in the corners where there are removable vinyl covered pads.
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03-02-2019, 03:26 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Trailer: 2019 5.0 TA
Posts: 864
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Thanks Jon, that is very helpful info, just what I was looking for. I wasn't aware of how the overhead ceiling was put together.
__________________
The Sweet Suite
Ronn and Colleen
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03-02-2019, 03:30 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Trailer: 2019 5.0 TA
Posts: 864
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggscape
Hi Ronn
There is a high amp 12 volt run of cable at the rear of the fridge that you can use. Most people never run their fridge on 12 volts and it is just a waste to have this line sitting there not used. Keep in mind you still need the original wires attached as the fridge does need some 12 volts to run, even on propane.
If you are mounting something on the roof that needs power, just run the wires into the roof top fridge vent, down and through a fuse to this power source. No holes...no extra cables to the panel.
In the next few months I will be writing up in detail a whole series of items that will be using this power source in Modifications to Eggscape.
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Great info, thanks Ed
__________________
The Sweet Suite
Ronn and Colleen
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03-02-2019, 03:33 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Trailer: 2019 5.0 TA
Posts: 864
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdf-texas
Running a wire to either above the microwave or refrigerator is fairly easy. Run the wiring from the converter 12v panel down the back of the bottom cabinets below the fridge/microwave stack and then come up the back of either stack.
Look at the build pic attached - in the back of the bottom cabinets on the right is where Escape runs a wiring bundle to the devices on that side of the trailer.
The wiring runs along the top of the wheel wells next to the trailer shell and then runs up where needed to each device. The panel in the back of each cabinet is open at the top enough to be able to pull new wiring from cabinet to cabinet. There is a space between the back of the bottom cabinets and the trailer shell making a wiring chase.
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Thanks Tom, looks like you just saved me $50!!
__________________
The Sweet Suite
Ronn and Colleen
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03-02-2019, 03:39 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Trailer: 2019 5.0 TA
Posts: 864
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
Personally in a 21 or 5.0 I would try using the full upper cabinets across the back. If you are starting down low you can remove the wood panel behind the dinette table or if u-shaped dinette use the back bench area to come across and then go vertical in the corners where there are removable vinyl covered pads.
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Great, like I said, I don't think I have a need for this but I did at one time entertain the idea of getting wiring across. Thanks Dave
__________________
The Sweet Suite
Ronn and Colleen
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03-02-2019, 04:30 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Front Range, Colorado
Trailer: ?
Posts: 739
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For what it's worth.
The glass in the doors is very opaque so you will be needing some very bright lights in order to be seen through the glass.
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03-02-2019, 04:37 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota
Trailer: 2019 5.0 TA
Posts: 864
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdColorado
For what it's worth.
The glass in the doors is very opaque so you will be needing some very bright lights in order to be seen through the glass.
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At this time I am not planning for lights in overheads, do you have glass in yours and are you planning lights?
I wonder what the thoughts of others who now have the glass inserts?
__________________
The Sweet Suite
Ronn and Colleen
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03-02-2019, 04:48 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Front Range, Colorado
Trailer: ?
Posts: 739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronn
At this time I am not planning for lights in overheads, do you have glass in yours and are you planning lights?
I wonder what the thoughts of others who now have the glass inserts?
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Our newly built 21' has the glass inserts.
I was never planning on installing lights inside the cabinets just pointing out the opaque nature of the glass.
Given how opaque the glass is , I can't see lighting installed inside the cabinets as being effective at doing much of anything other than maybe being pretty.
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