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Old 04-28-2021, 12:53 AM   #1
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Adding extra usb sockets

Has anyone added usb sockets after the build process? I want to add an external on the back of the trailer to power my homemade backup camera that streams to my phone. I assume there are some extra 12volt breakers in the WIFCO?

Also we want to mount some stuff on the wall next to the stove, some spice racks. We got no reinforcement on any walls at build time. Does this panel have framing I could attach a mounting strip to ? Or have people used expanding wall anchors ?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-28-2021, 01:01 AM   #2
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FYI: spices are supposed to be stored in a cool, dark place.

I've used 3M Command products for many applications, for 12 years. Their product line has expanded, so I'd check 3M out.
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Old 04-28-2021, 06:33 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by oldwave View Post
Has anyone added usb sockets after the build process? I want to add an external on the back of the trailer to power my homemade backup camera that streams to my phone. I assume there are some extra 12volt breakers in the WIFCO?
You will have plenty of spare spaces on the 12VDC board in the WFCO power center. Just wire it up and add an appropriate fuse and you’ll be good to go.
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Old 04-28-2021, 09:44 AM   #4
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You will have plenty of spare spaces on the 12VDC board in the WFCO power center. Just wire it up and add an appropriate fuse and you’ll be good to go.
Thanks
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Old 04-28-2021, 10:43 AM   #5
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Thanks
No problem. You can see in the right side of the photo the spare fuse spaces that remain on a fully loaded 2019 21' Escape that I worked on. Bear in mind the lower two slots are rated for max 30A which is why Escape uses one of those slots when the trailer has a 3-way fridge. The other nine spaces are rated for max 20A.
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WFCO 2019 21.jpg   WFCO DC board.JPG   WFCO DC fuse ratings.JPG  
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Old 04-28-2021, 11:04 AM   #6
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Also we want to mount some stuff on the wall next to the stove, some spice racks. We got no reinforcement on any walls at build time. Does this panel have framing I could attach a mounting strip to? Or have people used expanding wall anchors?
If they still build the bulkhead wall the same as early 19's I can say that there is only framing at the outer edge. The paneling is not very strong. My experience is with mounting an Umbra cubby. I recommend using something that expands in the wall to spread out the load. I used standard metal toggles but with the thin wall I needed to cut down the toggle wings and bolt to just the right length. If you don't the toggle wings won't expand in the wall or the end of the bolt hits the inside of the far surface before it is tight. The only downside is the hole is kind of big to fit the toggle through. Only an issue if you ever plan to remove it.
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Old 04-28-2021, 11:12 AM   #7
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If they still build the bulkhead wall the same as early 19's I can say that there is only framing at the outer edge. The paneling is not very strong. My experience is with mounting an Umbra cubby. I recommend using something that expands in the wall to spread out the load. I used standard metal toggles but with the thin wall I needed to cut down the toggle wings and bolt to just the right length. If you don't the toggle wings won't expand in the wall or the end of the bolt hits the inside of the far surface before it is tight. The only downside is the hole is kind of big to fit the toggle through. Only an issue if you ever plan to remove it.
Thanks that was I suspected. I am thinking about adding a mount strip that spans the luan and mount to it but I am unsure where the framing is on that wall , Ill see if the construction photos show the framing with out the panel.
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Old 04-28-2021, 11:22 AM   #8
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Here is a link to a post I did up on USB outlets that I highly recommend and if you read on to further posts you can learn how to test them as well.

Good luck on your install.

https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post280825
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Old 04-28-2021, 11:36 AM   #9
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Here is a link to a post I did up on USB outlets that I highly recommend and if you read on to further posts you can learn how to test them as well.

Good luck on your install.

https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post280825
Thank you very much!
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Old 05-01-2021, 02:52 PM   #10
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Does the wifco front cover come off with the two screws that are visible?
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Old 05-01-2021, 03:11 PM   #11
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Yes but care should be taken and the trailer unplugged from AC first.
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Old 05-01-2021, 03:17 PM   #12
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USB ports are generally NOT waterproof, I'd hate to put one outside, and would rather hard wire whatever device I was mounting there. they will do especially badly if exposed to wet salt, like winter road slush in much of the nation.
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Old 05-01-2021, 03:48 PM   #13
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Yes but care should be taken and the trailer unplugged from AC first.
Sure as
A person who escaped electrocution twice, I have been very cautious. I also know that high current dc is also very bad so I’ll disconnect the battery also.
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Old 05-01-2021, 03:50 PM   #14
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USB ports are generally NOT waterproof, I'd hate to put one outside, and would rather hard wire whatever device I was mounting there. they will do especially badly if exposed to wet salt, like winter road slush in much of the nation.
My workflow for this backup camera is a mount that is only used when at a campground and the USB ports I’m looking at are “waterproof “ with caps. Should be ok for the temporary applications.
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Old 05-01-2021, 05:19 PM   #15
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I had ETI add a 12V lighter-type outlet next to my rear awning leg to use a 12V fan outside; it has a good weatherproof seal. Sometimes I pop in a 12V to USB adapter to charge our phones. https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Charg...07146990&psc=1
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Old 05-01-2021, 08:38 PM   #16
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Power Shelf

I added a shelf and USB outlets for charging phones and two-way radios when we first got our Escape. When my wife upgraded to a new phone, I added a 12V DC outlet (formerly known as the cigarette lighter outlet), and enlarged the shelf to accommodate more and larger devices.
Our original build included 12V DC drops in all four corners of the trailer in the overhead cabinets, so I used one drop to run to a two-gang J-box on the shelf to power a 4-USB2 outlet (internals regulate the outlets to 5V DC.), and then the 12V DC outlet, so the phone's charger can get its full 3 Amps or so.
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Old 05-01-2021, 08:50 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by oldwave View Post
Has anyone added usb sockets after the build process? I want to add an external on the back of the trailer to power my homemade backup camera that streams to my phone. I assume there are some extra 12volt breakers in the WIFCO?

Also we want to mount some stuff on the wall next to the stove, some spice racks. We got no reinforcement on any walls at build time. Does this panel have framing I could attach a mounting strip to ? Or have people used expanding wall anchors ?

Thanks in advance.

John,
My I suggest that you consider mounting your camera Inside the rear window. We did just that, and it works great.
I made a mount out of stuff found in the garage, and it all sits in the tracks in the aluminum window frame.
Edit: I used a stereo 3.5 mm plug, and wing nuts on a couple of bolts, so it can all be removed quickly while camping, so we can enjoy the view.
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Old 05-01-2021, 11:34 PM   #18
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While you are going to do the work to run power from the WIFCO to the rear of the trailer I would suggest you run a dedicated 10ga wire to a location of choice and install a BlueSea fuse block there. This will give you multiple individual fused power points to draw from for this application and future projects. BlueSea also has USB and 12vdc outlets in various layouts. BlueSea is a little more expensive than some other components but they are built to marine grade specs.
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Old 05-02-2021, 12:44 AM   #19
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While you are going to do the work to run power from the WIFCO to the rear of the trailer I would suggest you run a dedicated 10ga wire to a location of choice and install a BlueSea fuse block there. This will give you multiple individual fused power points to draw from for this application and future projects. BlueSea also has USB and 12vdc outlets in various layouts. BlueSea is a little more expensive than some other components but they are built to marine grade specs.
Great idea
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Old 05-02-2021, 12:57 AM   #20
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John,
My I suggest that you consider mounting your camera Inside the rear window. We did just that, and it works great.
I made a mount out of stuff found in the garage, and it all sits in the tracks in the aluminum window frame.
Edit: I used a stereo 3.5 mm plug, and wing nuts on a couple of bolts, so it can all be removed quickly while camping, so we can enjoy the view.
Thanks, what I did was adapt a wyze cam2 with a waterproof case and mounted it on a ball head mount which is attached to a harbor freight 81 mm magnet. I can use a portable power bank to power it and move it around. This is so I can see my levelers when I’m solo. In the trailer I have a ubiquity access point that is powered by usb micro. This has range so my camera and my phone can connect. Then I use a feature of this camera call rtsp, real time streaming protocol and open VLC on my phone to see the camera. Once I get an outside usb I can eliminate the battery bank, which is water proof while closed. It’s a bit geeky but the total cost I have in it is maybe 75 dollars. But I had most of the stuff laying around.
I tried it today and it worked very well, even has audio if my partner is back there.


If anyone wants details pm me for a parts list and an explanation on how to set it up.

I was inspired by another forum user who built a camera with a raberri pi. However the mobility of this unit, especially with portable power bank is very useful. Also I already had the access point as it’s part of my home made WiFi extender, that I learned from someone else. Under a 100 dollar with a range of miles.
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