AFCI/GFCI breakers and NEC updates

[gklott]

As part of our wiring upgrade project, we changed the six AC branch circuit breakers to Eaton type BR 1-Pole Dual Function AFCI/GFCI circuit breakers, model BRCAF120CS for 20A version and BRCAF115CS for 15A version. We purchased these at Lowes and Home Depot, and they fit correctly in the WFCO panel.

Our change includes the four circuit breakers (three 15A, one 20A) in the WFCO panel and the two 15A circuit breakers in the secondary panel off the inverter transfer switch. We have the ETI option where all outlets are on the inverter when not plugged into shore power.



The two remaining regular breakers are the 30A Main and 30A transfer switch breakers in the single Eaton BR 2-30 Amp Single Pole Tandem Non-CTL double-up circuit breaker, model BR3030, in the top position.

This is in keeping with the spirit in the updated NEC 2020 Articles:
- 210.8, which expands the GFCI outlet location requirements, and
- 210.12, which requires AFCI protection in nearly all residential branch circuits.
These are in addition to the RV minimum required GFCI in 551.40(C).

We've experienced a loose, arc-causing outlet in our other trailer, which we discovered when we smelled the "electrical burning" odor. So we now have AFCI/GFCI on all circuits on both trailers.

Since we switched, we have had zero unexpected trips.

With today's AFCI and GFCI technologies, any repeatedly tripping breaker truly indicates the circuit has a problem that the owner should fix.

Interesting trailer-related 2020 NEC changes include:
- 551.40(D) - requires a visual or audible alarm when there's an ungrounded (black) conductor and grounded (white) conductor reversal. This makes ETI Energy Management System (EMS) (or similar) option a new requirement.
- 551.46(D) - changes the 30A trailer supply outlet labeling to the format shown.



From discussions with NEC panel members responsible for Articles 551 Part V (RVs) and Part VI (RV Parks), NEC 2023 edition will most likely include a change in Article 551.71 (F), which will require GFCI protection for 15/20A, 30A, and 50A breakers in the RV park's site pedestal. This will bring the RV park pedestal outlets into conformance with Article 210.8(B) which the 2020 NEC changed, for non-dwellings, where ALL 125V thru 250V single phase branch circuit receptacles, 50A or less, must have GFCI protection.

We've already done this at the pole barn where we park our trailers.



This too is working without any unexpected trips.

If you are adding any outside 15/20A, 30A, or 50A outlet that supplies power to your RV, 2020 NEC Article 21.8(A)(3) now requires your new RV supply circuit to be GFCI protected. Recommend having your electrician install GFCI.

Design safe, install safe, maintain safe, remain safe!

73/gus

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by gklott

Our change includes the four circuit breakers (three 15A, one 20A) in the WFCO panel and the two 15A circuit breakers in the secondary panel off the inverter transfer switch. We have the ETI option where all outlets are on the inverter when not plugged into shore power.

Speaking of code requirements - is one of those two breakers in the all outlet sub box powering a microwave? Code says that a microwave must be on a dedicated circuit - Escape doesn't do this even though they label the microwave outlet as dedicated.

I changed the breakers out in my sub panel to four breakers and wired the microwave to its dedicated breaker.

[Brian B-P]

Gus, is it true (as indicated by the main distribution panel labels) that your microwave oven is not powered from the inverter?

[gklott]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Gus, is it true (as indicated by the main distribution panel labels) that your microwave oven is not powered from the inverter?

That is correct. We have the Contoure RV190SCON 1.1 cu.ft convection microwave oven. It has a dedicated breaker (as shown) with a single dedicated outlet (not a duplex receptacle) behind the unit. The location is directly beneath the cooktop.

73/gus

[gklott]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

Speaking of code requirements - is one of those two breakers in the all outlet sub box powering a microwave? Code says that a microwave must be on a dedicated circuit.

It is not in the subpanel. Our built-in convection microwave is on a dedicated breaker in the WFCO panel, as NEC now requires. See my other response for the details.

Our subpanel has two breakers - one for dinette area and bed area outlets and the other for kitchen and outside outlets.



73/gus

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by gklott

It is not in the subpanel. Our built-in convection microwave is on a dedicated breaker in the WFCO panel, as NEC now requires. See my other response for the details.

It's good that you are trying to meet current electrical code but you needed to do a little more research before you bought those Non-CTL breakers.

You installed Eaton BR 2-30 Amp Single Pole Tandem Non-CTL double-up circuit breakers, model BR3030 which has been illegal to use since 1965. They are sold "for replacement use only" in electrical panels manufactured 1965 or before. Use of Non-CTL breakers in an electrical panel built after 1965 is a violation of NEC code. Reference: 1965 edition of the NEC, article 384-15.

I see you have two circuits (battery charger / fridge) on a BRCAF115CS 15 amp breaker and it is not rated for double tapped connections. Since it is not legal to have two conductors under a BRCAF115CS breaker load lug, I assume that you pigtailed the two circuits with a wirenut before terminating at the breaker. Otherwise, that would be a code violation.

[yangstyle]

This might be a dumb question but do RV's follow the same electrical code as residential and commercial buildings?
Without the ground rod requirements I assume.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by yangstyle

This might be a dumb question but do RV's follow the same electrical code as residential and commercial buildings?
Without the ground rod requirements I assume.

Yes - sort of. There are exceptions and additional requirements for RVs defined in National Electrical Code Article 551, Recreational Vehicles and Recreational Vehicle Parks. Also, there is NFPA 1192 Standard on Recreational Vehicles.
https://www.nfpa.org/codes-and-stand...tail?code=1192

Also RVs are not the same as residential and commercial buildings - they move. Each local "authority having jurisdiction" (AHJ) sets which electrical codes that they enforce. Since a RV travels, you end up in more than one AHJ so which one do you go by? It is then prudent to follow all the current code requirements as you don't know which ones the local AHJ you happen to be in enforces.

https://www.rvtravel.com/rv-electric...find-out-here/

Here's the good part - you are only required to meet NEC standards that were in effect when your trailer was built (unless you add something - then the new code applies). So, if your trailer met code when it was built - it still meets code.

[gklott]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

It's good that you are trying to meet current electrical code but you needed to do a little more research before you bought those Non-CTL breakers.
You installed Eaton BR 2-30 Amp Single Pole Tandem Non-CTL double-up circuit breakers, model BR3030 which has been illegal to use since 1965. They are sold "for replacement use only" in electrical panels manufactured 1965 or before. Use of Non-CTL breakers in an electrical panel built after 1965 is a violation of NEC code. Reference: 1965 edition of the NEC, article 384-15.

You are absolutely correct on the non-CTL breaker. Excellent catch. Thanks for pointing that out. This is important, and I was wrong in the model and name. Cut-and-Paste can be a dangerous thing.

So what did I really purchase? Looked at my records, and I purchased this breaker from Elliot Electric. It is the Eaton model BD3030. This is the current CTL version. I confirmed this as shown:



This is important, I need to pay more attention to what I searched.

Again, thanks - which is a good case for forum feedback.

73/gus

[gklott]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

I see you have two circuits (battery charger / fridge) on a BRCAF115CS 15 amp breaker and it is not rated for double tapped connections. Since it is not legal to have two conductors under a BRCAF115CS breaker load lug, I assume that you pigtailed the two circuits with a wirenut before terminating at the breaker. Otherwise, that would be a code violation.

Yes, I have a pigtail on the two circuits, but I did not use a wire nut. I used the Ideal 2011S copper crimp connector with Ideal 2014 nylon splice cap insulator.

Had a bad experience with wire nuts in RVs. We had that "electrical burn smell" once when we turned on the water heater in our other trailer. When I opened the wiring cover, the ungrounded conductor (black) wire nut fell out, and the two wires were barely connected. It burned back a bit of the insulation. Had to cut them back and crimp connect. Checked other points in the trailer that used wire nuts, and a couple more were also loose.

RVs are hard on wire nuts. Wish RVIA and NEC would follow the ABYC E-11 criteria, which says "11.14.3.6, Twist on connectors (i.e., wire nuts) shall not be used."

73/gus

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by gklott

Yes, I have a pigtail on the two circuits, but I did not use a wire nut. I used the Ideal 2011S copper crimp connector with Ideal 2014 nylon splice cap insulator.

Had a bad experience with wire nuts in RVs. We had that "electrical burn smell" once when we turned on the water heater in our other trailer. When I opened the wiring cover, the ungrounded conductor (black) wire nut fell out, and the two wires were barely connected. It burned back a bit of the insulation. Had to cut them back and crimp connect. Checked other points in the trailer that used wire nuts, and a couple more were also loose.

RVs are hard on wire nuts. Wish RVIA and NEC would follow the ABYC E-11 criteria, which says "11.14.3.6, Twist on connectors (i.e., wire nuts) shall not be used."

73/gus

Not sure if it’s possible with your setup but I had space so was able to put the converter on its own breaker. Came in handy while doing some rewiring the last couple of days.

Was recently troubleshooting a recessed light that was not working in our basement. Got into the junction box and the hot wire fell right out of the wire nut.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by gklott

I purchased this breaker from Elliot Electric, and it is the Eaton model BD3030. This is the current CTL version.

Originally Posted by gklott

Yes, I have a pigtail on the two circuits, but I did not use a wire nut. I used the Ideal 2011S copper crimp connector with Ideal 2014 nylon splice cap insulator.

Well, I gave your installation as tough a critique as any electrical inspection I have ever done - and it passed with flying colors!

I look forward to seeing other mods you do to your trailer! Of course, if you catch me screwing up - you are more than welcome to chime in and let me know my mistakes. Thanks for being here!

ps. You know with the quality of electrical work that you do - you are now an electrical expert on the forum!

[Centex]

Are 'tandem' CTL Dual Function AFCI/GFCI breakers available to fit these panels?

No, I don't understand if that's even possible with a 'tandem' CTL configuration, thus the question.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by Centex

Are 'tandem' CTL combination AFCI/GFCI breakers available to fit these panels?

No, I don't understand if that's even possible with a 'tandem' CTL configuration, thus the question.

Ouch! You're right. I did a search for tandem AFCI/GFCI breakers and they are not made.

That's bad news for someone who needs to add a circuit to a panel that is already full - with the current code, a larger box would have to be installed rather than just swapping out a breaker for a tandem.

Existing non AFCI/GFCI breakers are grandfathered under code but that doesn't apply to additions to existing installations - they have to meet current code.

[gklott]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Not sure if it’s possible with your setup but I had space so was able to put the converter on its own breaker. Came in handy while doing some rewiring the last couple of days.

I replaced the WFCO converter with a Sterling Power ProCharge Ultra : 40 Amp marine battery charger, model PCU1240. I have a duplex outlet dedicated to the charger, and I can unplug the PCU1240 for troubleshooting. If need be, I can turn off the breaker, and the refrigerator switches to propane.

73/gus

[elongest]

First let me say I am not an electrician and this is my opinion. I have been reviewing the new requirements because of some electrical upgrades I'm making and think the 2020 code breaker changes is a solution looking for a problem. The solution is for the mfg. to sell more high priced AFCI/GFCI circuit breakers by requiring them everywhere. Plug in 220 appliances will now require GFCI circuits and houses will require external service disconnects, The new 110 AFCI/GFCI circuit breakers cost 8-10 times as much as a std. 110v breaker. (about $50 each.) I have yet to price a 220v breaker for a range or dryer. I feel very safe with the current code editions and find them very reasonable. My guess the 2020 code will add at least $2-2.5K to the cost of a new home or complete residential rewire. For anyone supporting the 2020 NEC changes relating to breaker requirements my question is, have you replaced all your panel breakers yet? I'm not looking to argue It's just my opinion. Just as gklott has done if you feel you want/need AFCI/GFCI circuit breakers everywhere go for it but don't make them a requirement for everywhere for everyone.
Eddie

[gklott]

Originally Posted by yangstyle

This might be a dumb question but do RV's follow the same electrical code as residential and commercial buildings?
Without the ground rod requirements I assume.

For ETI, I understand that CSA Z240 RV Series-14, Recreational Vehicles, is the overall Canadian RV safety standard. For the electrical, the Z240 series requires C22.1, Canadian Electrical Code, Part I, etc. At the time of manufacturer, ETI trailers pass CSA compliance validation. ETI places the QAI serialized sticker on our trailer.

In the US, the RVIA has a similar serialized certification. RVIA requires NFPA 1192 compliance, and 1192 requires NEC compliance for AC systems and ANSI/RVIA LV for DC systems.

So, as tdf-texas explains, yes. Our trailers follow the same core and some specialized NEC or C22.1 electrical safety guidance.

We do not need more Landyn Gerald Keener incidents. GFCI protects lives, and AFCI prevents fires. This young boy's death is a one of several RV incidents that lead to the NEC's new black-white wire reversal RV alarm.

I view the latest standards as best safety practice when working on our trailer. It just makes sense to learn from the consensus body of knowledge, rather than learning the hard way.

73/gus

[Centex]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

Ouch! You're right. I did a search for tandem AFCI/GFCI breakers and they are not made.

That's bad news for someone who needs to add a circuit to a panel that is already full - with the current code, a larger box would have to be installed rather than just swapping out a breaker for a tandem.

Well, I didn't presume that answer but at least I feel a bit better about my own failed search

So, if I'm understanding this all correctly, a trailer (or home for that matter) that's using Dual Function AFCI/GFCI breakers on all branch circuits will have no need for any 'GFCI outlets', correct? No more 'resetting' at an outlet, all 'resetting' will require a 'trip' (pardon the double entendre ) to the breaker panel.

I might as well go ahead and ask .... IF one installs an AFCI/GFCI breaker for a existing circuit, is there any downside to leaving an existing GFCI outlet on that circuit (which may GFCI-protect some or all of that circuit depending on it's installation)? Should those existing GFCI outlets be replaced with standard outlets for some safety-related reason or are they simply redundant-but-safe in that scenario?

FWIW I'm following all of this with great interest, not in anticipation of swapping breakers in an OE ETI WFCO panel but in anticipation of replacing that panel with the PD55K003 panel (which uses same-size / type CTL breakers) along with other significant electrical mods in my to-be-delivered 5.0. In this scheme the somewhat unique "Dual Main / Split Neutral" PD55K003 serves as both the 'Shore Power Main Panel' and the "Inverter Sub-panel' in one enclosure (the Converter and DC Distribution are separate components - this is only an AC Distribution Panel). Though tandem CTL breakers are allowed in that panel, I think I can manage without them (or any 'pigtails') for my application.

Whether or not any 'authority having jurisdiction' ever gives a darn about what's in my trailer, I am accepting that these things as related here by tdf-texas and gklott are the 'latest thinking' in terms of electrical safety for people and property. That is my interest, that I will do my best to apply, and for that reason I really appreciate the expertise shared by those members and others.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by gklott

As part of our wiring upgrade project, we changed the six AC branch circuit breakers to Eaton type BR 1-Pole Dual Function AFCI/GFCI circuit breakers, model BRCAF120CS for 20A version and BRCAF115CS for 15A version. We purchased these at Lowes and Home Depot, and they fit correctly in the WFCO panel.

Our change includes the four circuit breakers (three 15A, one 20A) in the WFCO panel and the two 15A circuit breakers in the secondary panel off the inverter transfer switch. We have the ETI option where all outlets are on the inverter when not plugged into shore power.



The two remaining regular breakers are the 30A Main and 30A transfer switch breakers in the single Eaton BR 2-30 Amp Single Pole Tandem Non-CTL double-up circuit breaker, model BR3030, in the top position.

This is in keeping with the spirit in the updated NEC 2020 Articles:
- 210.8, which expands the GFCI outlet location requirements, and
- 210.12, which requires AFCI protection in nearly all residential branch circuits.
These are in addition to the RV minimum required GFCI in 551.40(C).

We've experienced a loose, arc-causing outlet in our other trailer, which we discovered when we smelled the "electrical burning" odor. So we now have AFCI/GFCI on all circuits on both trailers.

Since we switched, we have had zero unexpected trips.

With today's AFCI and GFCI technologies, any repeatedly tripping breaker truly indicates the circuit has a problem that the owner should fix.

Interesting trailer-related 2020 NEC changes include:
- 551.40(D) - requires a visual or audible alarm when there's an ungrounded (black) conductor and grounded (white) conductor reversal. This makes ETI Energy Management System (EMS) (or similar) option a new requirement.
- 551.46(D) - changes the 30A trailer supply outlet labeling to the format shown.



From discussions with NEC panel members responsible for Articles 551 Part V (RVs) and Part VI (RV Parks), NEC 2023 edition will most likely include a change in Article 551.71 (F), which will require GFCI protection for 15/20A, 30A, and 50A breakers in the RV park's site pedestal. This will bring the RV park pedestal outlets into conformance with Article 210.8(B) which the 2020 NEC changed, for non-dwellings, where ALL 125V thru 250V single phase branch circuit receptacles, 50A or less, must have GFCI protection.

We've already done this at the pole barn where we park our trailers.



This too is working without any unexpected trips.

If you are adding any outside 15/20A, 30A, or 50A outlet that supplies power to your RV, 2020 NEC Article 21.8(A)(3) now requires your new RV supply circuit to be GFCI protected. Recommend having your electrician install GFCI.

Design safe, install safe, maintain safe, remain safe!

73/gus

Congratulations! See you installed the superior. Smart Plug. system 👍🏻Pat

[gklott]

Originally Posted by Patandlinda

Congratulations! See you installed the superior. Smart Plug. system 👍🏻Pat

Yes, we have the 30A SmartPlug version on our Escape 19 and the 50A version on our other trailer. They are really nice. Takes about 30 minutes to change out the ETI installed inlet. We converted the ETI supplied cord with the SmartPlug retro-fit connector.

Hope ETI will provide SmartPlug as a removable inlet and cord option in future builds.

73/gus