Boondocking water intake

[rubicon327]

Is anyone else tired of holding heavy containers of water or getting out and powering an external pump to fill the fresh water tank when boondocking? I've borrowed some ideas from Oliver's boondocking inlet with my own spin. The concept is a second high flow (4 gpm) Shurflo self-priming onboard pump connected to a stainless steel water inlet and outlet with an exterior rated power switch all mounted on the shell. When one wants to draw water from an external source to fill their fresh tank they simply connect a short hose to the intake and put the other end in their container. Another short hose is connected from the outlet and is put into the existing fresh water fill inlet. The other advantage of the second pump and coming outside to an outlet is that if the main onboard pump dies I could hook the new inlet up to the garden hose connection on my fresh tank drain and connect the new outlet to the existing city water connection. This would act as a redundant pressurized water system. Unlike the Oliver design this setup also eliminates the need to go inside the trailer to flip concealed valves and turn on the pump. Everything can be done right at the outside fill station. Easily winterized/sanitized. Sorry for the rudimentary sketch but you'll get the idea. Please let me know your thoughts on this system. If someone does something better I'm all ears. This is just a concept and I haven't bought any parts yet.

https://www.boatoutfitters.com/water...SABEgJuXvD_BwE

https://www.boatoutfitters.com/water-outlet

https://www.pentair.com/en-us/produc...flow-pump.html

[Brian B-P]

It's not the obvious solution, and often that's a good thing.

An alternative would be the completely plumbed-in system, but with an access door to reach the required valves and storage of the intake hose... but this should work well and be easier to build.

This seems like a functional and reasonable way to get to the objective. It is essentially what I carry for filling from jugs, but mounted in the trailer instead of carried in a storage compartment.

All I can suggest for improvement is using quick-connect hose fittings to make setting it up and packing it away as quick and easy as possible. Typical quick-connect garden hose fittings use male plugs on the tap and end devices with female couplers on both ends of the hoses; I find that nonsensical and re-arrange to put male plugs on anything receiving water and female couplers on all sources - that way a hose can be coiled up and connected to itself to stay clean inside in storage (and not dribble water into the storage compartment). I leave a plug on the RV's inlet (which would be more optimal with a recessed inlet; obviously a campsite faucet won't have a coupler so that has to be screwed on each time, but at least it's only one fitting that needs that.

[brroberts]

I just carry a cheap small 12v pump and some cheap hose. We fill a small cooler we carry for extra food and day trip lunches. For me it’s quick, small, light and cheap. I also carry one of those rubber hose adapters for unthreaded faucets. Less than $15, but it doesn’t offer pressurized redundancy. We would have to use our water unpressurized until I got the pump fixed.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

An alternative would be the completely plumbed-in system, but with an access door to reach the required valves and storage of the intake hose... but this should work well and be easier to build.

This seems like a functional and reasonable way to get to the objective. It is essentially what I carry for filling from jugs, but mounted in the trailer instead of carried in a storage compartment.

Brian: Thanks for the critique. I thought about doing all the appropriate plumbing inside and bringing it to an access door but I don't have room for a reasonably sized door at the rear drivers side and I really don't want to try to tee into the large diameter corrugated fresh water tank fill line. I really like that this design also provides a completely redundant system if the main pump fails - with the ability to draw from an external container or the fresh tank.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

I thought about doing all the appropriate plumbing inside and bringing it to an access door but I don't have room for a reasonably sized door at the rear drivers side and I really don't want to try to tee into the large diameter corrugated fresh water tank fill line.

I wouldn't want to do that tee, either... but the fresh water tank can be filled through the pump suction line from the city water inlet (or pump outlet... effectively the same point in the system) with a shutoff valve.

[Eggscape]

On my last trailer I had a stick on hook that I could attach the ring of a funnel to so that I could use both hands to fill the tank from a collapsible container.

What I have done on Eggscape may not solve all your requirements, however it does meet most of mine. I know you saw the mod a few years ago as you committed on it. I will provide a link to it again if a few new to Escape trailers wish to read in full what I have done.

I always like when a mod I do can be used for more than one thing. In this case by installing an inexpensive winterizing T value at the bottom of the fresh water tank, I can pump antifreeze throughout all the supply tubing right from the source. It also allows me to bypass the water tank and draw directly from a water container on the ground. This may be helpful if you run out of water or your tank becomes faulty due to a leak or a bad distasteful growth inside while you are on the road.

Good luck with your mod Dave and on a side note...if you sent me your email like you talked about a few days ago, I have not received it yet.

https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post266446

[btroxell]

I, too, was tired of messing with heavy containers when transferring water when boondocking. My solution to this problem is a bit different. My trailer was equipped with a 3-way valve with a hose connected to one port so that I could suck antifreeze to winterize. I added another 3 way valve near it so that I could change the source and destination of the water running in the trailer using the existing pump. For example, depending on the position of the 2 valves, I can transfer water:
-from the fresh water tank to the trailer appliances (normal use)
-from the 'antifreeze' hose to the trailer appliances (winterizing)
-from the 'antifreeze' hose to the fresh water tank (adding water to FW tank via spare container)
Attached is my diagram of how I plumbed it where 'tank' is FW tank and 'hose' is the 'antifreeze' hose. The system works but the pump cycles on and off as it's pumping water from the extra container of water to the FW tank. And I do have to carry the spare water into the trailer.

Ben

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by btroxell

I, too, was tired of messing with heavy containers when transferring water when boondocking. My solution to this problem is a bit different. My trailer was equipped with a 3-way valve with a hose connected to one port so that I could suck antifreeze to winterize. I added another 3 way valve near it so that I could change the source and destination of the water running in the trailer using the existing pump. For example, depending on the position of the 2 valves, I can transfer water:
-from the fresh water tank to the trailer appliances (normal use)
-from the 'antifreeze' hose to the trailer appliances (winterizing)
-from the 'antifreeze' hose to the fresh water tank (adding water to FW tank via spare container)
Attached is my diagram of how I plumbed it where 'tank' is FW tank and 'hose' is the 'antifreeze' hose. The system works but the pump cycles on and off as it's pumping water from the extra container of water to the FW tank. And I do have to carry the spare water into the trailer.

Ben

Nice work. If I interpret correctly you have the same capabilities as the Oliver system. The only difference being their rear inlet outside is your “winterizing” intake line inside. So when you are filling your tank you are backfeeding the pump suction line (that attaches to the side of the tank near the bottom) and seen in Eggscape’s photo above?

My only real reservation with this design is the room to access the valves. I have an underbed storage drawer that makes anything beyond grabbing the winterizing hose and just being able reach in to bypass the water heater a real challenge. Plus I rather not bring the water containers inside.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Nice work. If I interpret correctly you have the same capabilities as the Oliver system. The only difference being their rear inlet outside is your “winterizing” intake line inside. So when you are filling your tank you are backfeeding the pump suction line (that attaches to the side of the tank near the bottom) and seen in Eggscape’s photo above?

My only real reservation with this design is the room to access the valves. I have an underbed storage drawer that makes anything beyond grabbing the winterizing hose and just being able reach in to bypass the water heater a real challenge. Plus I rather not bring the water containers inside.

It would be expensive - but two of these with an external switch?

https://www.amazon.com/HSH-Flo-24VAC...9810415&sr=8-3

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

It would be expensive - but two of these with an external switch?

https://www.amazon.com/HSH-Flo-24VAC...9810415&sr=8-3

That’s an interesting idea. Essentially extending the existing winterizing line to an inlet on the exterior and adding two motorized valves. Trouble I see is if both valves flip based on a signal from a single switch you would have normal operation (from tank to trailer plumbing) or tank fill mode (from inlet to fresh water tank) but would not have the third mode to winterize (from inlet to trailer). Of course this could be done with two switches but positions would need to be carefully managed to avoid antifreeze in the freshwater tank.

[Gori]

We bought a pump fro Walmart for $10. It runs on 2 D batteries.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Gori

We bought a pump fro Walmart for $10. It runs on 2 D batteries.

Is it this one?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Turbo-Ele...SABEgLbZfD_BwE

If so it gets some pretty poor reviews. I personally don’t want to carry around something so cheap and likely to break or to fuss with throw away batteries when I have an onboard 12V battery bank to leverage. As the D batteries start to die you can expect reduced flow. That all said I hope it works well for you. Hard to go wrong for only $10 I guess.

[sunrisetrucker]

I find simple solutions the work the best

[Greg A]

Was going to do electric pump setup in bed of truck to transfer water, but found an rv hand pump siphon at Walmart for about $10. Thing works so well I abandoned the other ideas.

[Ian and Sue]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Is anyone else tired of holding heavy containers of water or getting out and powering an external pump to fill the fresh water tank when boondocking? I've borrowed some ideas from Oliver's boondocking inlet with my own spin. The concept is a second high flow (4 gpm) Shurflo self-priming onboard pump connected to a stainless steel water inlet and outlet with an exterior rated power switch all mounted on the shell. When one wants to draw water from an external source to fill their fresh tank they simply connect a short hose to the intake and put the other end in their container. Another short hose is connected from the outlet and is put into the existing fresh water fill inlet. The other advantage of the second pump and coming outside to an outlet is that if the main onboard pump dies I could hook the new inlet up to the garden hose connection on my fresh tank drain and connect the new outlet to the existing city water connection. This would act as a redundant pressurized water system. Unlike the Oliver design this setup also eliminates the need to go inside the trailer to flip concealed valves and turn on the pump. Everything can be done right at the outside fill station. Easily winterized/sanitized. Sorry for the rudimentary sketch but you'll get the idea. Please let me know your thoughts on this system. If someone does something better I'm all ears. This is just a concept and I haven't bought any parts yet.

https://www.boatoutfitters.com/water...SABEgJuXvD_BwE

https://www.boatoutfitters.com/water-outlet

https://www.pentair.com/en-us/produc...flow-pump.html

I went a slightly different route. I have a 30 gal water tank in the back of my truck(any size would work). I have it plumbed into a shurflow pump and have a hose bibb plumbed in. The pump is hooked up to an old deep cycle battery(it doesn't take much juice) with a simple toggle switch to turn it on or off. I can go get water in the truck and then pump it into the camper tank. In an emergency I have shut off a broken pump in the trailer and used the city water inlet and pressurized the camper with the pump in the truck. This also gives me running water in the truck for washing up after dirty work, cleaning up dirty kids, etc.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by sunrisetrucker

I find simple solutions the work the best

Smart. With the rear Stowaway box we have mounted behind and slightly above the tire it would make a decent platform for a water container to sit if it is the right size and can sit against the trailer wall and on the rear part of the box without sliding off.

[Greg A]

If ur boondocking most of the time there is room around the trailer. I just pull the truck alongside the DS, lower the tailgate, hook up the siphon and go. No lifting 40lbs of water.
Ian’s system is exactly what I originally wanted. Very cool setup.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Is anyone else tired of holding heavy containers of water or getting out and powering an external pump to fill the fresh water tank when boondocking? I've borrowed some ideas from Oliver's boondocking inlet with my own spin. The concept is a second high flow (4 gpm) Shurflo self-priming onboard pump connected to a stainless steel water inlet and outlet with an exterior rated power switch all mounted on the shell. When one wants to draw water from an external source to fill their fresh tank they simply connect a short hose to the intake and put the other end in their container. Another short hose is connected from the outlet and is put into the existing fresh water fill inlet. The other advantage of the second pump and coming outside to an outlet is that if the main onboard pump dies I could hook the new inlet up to the garden hose connection on my fresh tank drain and connect the new outlet to the existing city water connection. This would act as a redundant pressurized water system. Unlike the Oliver design this setup also eliminates the need to go inside the trailer to flip concealed valves and turn on the pump. Everything can be done right at the outside fill station. Easily winterized/sanitized. Sorry for the rudimentary sketch but you'll get the idea. Please let me know your thoughts on this system. If someone does something better I'm all ears. This is just a concept and I haven't bought any parts yet.

https://www.boatoutfitters.com/water...SABEgJuXvD_BwE

https://www.boatoutfitters.com/water-outlet

https://www.pentair.com/en-us/produc...flow-pump.html

One of the reasons I liked Oliver ! Actually saw this action ! Pat

[CADreamin]

Maybe something like this? https://www.zoro.com/flojet-potable-...specifications

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by btroxell

The system works but the pump cycles on and off as it's pumping water from the extra container of water to the FW tank.

I was worried about this same thing, but then realized the pump should not turn off until it reaches the cut-out pressure (nominally 55 PSI) which shouldn't happen when filling a vented tank. Maybe you need to turn your pump pressure setting up?