dicor slider/springfield pedestal questions - Page 2

Rossue · 07-25-2019, 05:49 PM

The top of my raised floor is 3 5/8" higher than the rest of the floor. I also held it back 5" from the corner trim piece and like the extra foot room there. Don't miss that 5" when seated at all.

Farther · 07-25-2019, 07:15 PM

I'm wondering why the quick release cam locks aren't all located on the same half of the table for easier accessibility. It looks to me that several rivets would have to be drilled out to get them all on the same side. It might be worth the effort. Anybody see a downside to having the quick releases towards the forward side of the table

Rossue · 07-25-2019, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Farther

I'm wondering why the quick release cam locks aren't all located on the same half of the table for easier accessibility. It looks to me that several rivets would have to be drilled out to get them all on the same side. It might be worth the effort. Anybody see a downside to having the quick releases towards the forward side of the table

Not sure what you mean about cam locks aren't all located on the same half of the table. As to the orientation of the lock handles I carefully decided how I wanted them before deciding how to mount the base. They are placed for ease of operation for me; YMMV.

Farther · 07-25-2019, 07:50 PM

If you look at the pictures that John posted under the table looking up, you will see that of the three quick releases that two of them will be a reach when standing in front of the table. Mine are the same but yours may be different. Please post a picture of yours.

Rossue · 07-25-2019, 08:08 PM

I only see two black "quick releases"- same as mine. The silver latch at the top of John's photo is a Dicor Slide lock.

Farther · 07-25-2019, 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rossue

I only see two black "quick releases"- same as mine.

I'm talking about the silver Dicor slide quick releases. There are three of them.

**John in Santa Cruz** · 07-25-2019, 08:22 PM

my wife wants the 4" rise on 'her' side of the dinette (curb side). she's 5'2 with very short lower legs (runs in her family on the female side... thankfully both our kids are fairly tall so I guess my genes stepped in).

OTOH, maybe I will just put a (round? octagonal? square?) riser just big enough for the base, then have a 'loose' step block she can put on her side, perhaps with a nonslip rubber bottom. or just put two 2x4's on edge between the slider rails and the table top, hmmmmmm. I figure any screws I put into the original floor can't penetrate more than 1/2" or 5/8" as thats how long the screws stuck out that held the original table bases in place.

**John in Santa Cruz** · 07-25-2019, 08:24 PM

I was going to put the springfield extension clamps on the 'front' facing side, but when the springfield is completely compressed, the upper one is 'behind' the slider rails and can't be unlocked easily, so I had to rotate the base so they are on the ''street" side, as shown in my pic.

Rossue · 07-25-2019, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Farther

I'm talking about the silver Dicor slide quick releases. There are three of them.

Ok, I understand; there are two that control front to rear and only one for side to side. Don't believe there would be any advantage to rearranging them.

dfandrews · 07-25-2019, 08:50 PM

Equatorial mount looks easier!

Oldtimer · 07-26-2019, 08:16 AM

Hey John if you raise the floor in that area, make sure you allow room to be able to change out your power center in the need ever arises. Friend of mine did that on his stick built n 3 months later his went out. Had a devil of a time changing it

Jim Bennett · 07-26-2019, 10:41 AM

I have no issues with where the slide cams are located. I have the table rotated so one for each direction is at the front.

BTW, our table is full sized for the U-shaped dinette, but we usually keep it turned 90° to keep the extra room to the rear of the trailer instead of between us.

**John in Santa Cruz** · 07-26-2019, 12:07 PM

plan is now having a friend who does wood turning make me a 3.5" high 'cylinder' of oak or something, 12" OD, 10" ID, countersink drill this in 8 places to screw to floor, and pilot drill it in 8 more places for the screws for the base of the Springfield.

if my wife wants a 3" or 4" step, I'll find something standalone.

gbaglo · 07-26-2019, 12:18 PM

Oak is costly.
That is CAD.

Chama · 07-26-2019, 01:20 PM

Much to my dismay, when removing the old plastic table slides from the ETI table top, I found they now glue them down with construction adhesive. Despite some careful work with a chisel, it was not possible to get the glued slides off without damaging the plywood underneath. ETI glue is stronger than the glue used to laminate the plywood. Our is a 2019 and I hope those who are installing the Dicor 4 way slide do not have the same problem. I am undecided about how best to repair the tabletop for installation. Any suggestions from you woodworkers out there?

**John in Santa Cruz** · 07-26-2019, 01:30 PM

is this glue hard and brittle? sand it down using a sanding block. if its rubbery that probably won't work.

or take of what you can with a draw knife, then smooth on some filler compound, then sand ?

MikeS · 07-26-2019, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chama

Much to my dismay, when removing the old plastic table slides from the ETI table top, I found they now glue them down with construction adhesive. Despite some careful work with a chisel, it was not possible to get the glued slides off without damaging the plywood underneath. ETI glue is stronger than the glue used to laminate the plywood. Our is a 2019 and I hope those who are installing the Dicor 4 way slide do not have the same problem. I am undecided about how best to repair the tabletop for installation. Any suggestions from you woodworkers out there?

My first thought is wood putty. (well after oh Sh...)

akmacs · 07-26-2019, 01:45 PM

My slider is still in the box but I'll be in the mix soon too. As for the glue residue, if it is hard/brittle, this should work to remove it. Should be available in most larger hardware stores. Any sharp chisel would work too if you are careful. I wouldn't worry about filling in any voids as they shouldn't cause any issues.

Ron in BC · 07-26-2019, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

plan is now having a friend who does wood turning make me a 3.5" high 'cylinder' of oak or something, 12" OD, 10" ID, countersink drill this in 8 places to screw to floor, and pilot drill it in 8 more places for the screws for the base of the Springfield.

if my wife wants a 3" or 4" step, I'll find something standalone.

Well, lucky you. If you didn't have a wood turning friend you could have using your router with an attachment to let you route disks and stacked them but it's always nice to have a friend that can do it quicker and easier.

Of course we will expect photos.

Ron

**John in Santa Cruz** · 07-26-2019, 03:58 PM

hmm, I could make a circle jig, I guess, and make like 7 or 8 12" OD 10" ID circles from the 1/2" birch ply pieces I already have, then laminate them together, but somehow I'm not picturing that working real well, getting the circles exactly the right OD then getting them exactly lined up when gluing them together is the part that scares me.

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