dicor slider/springfield pedestal questions

[Ron in BC]

Well, working on our hypothetical round base, , no jig would be required.

There is an attachment for the router, basically an arm with a pin in the end. The pin goes in the center of circle. Push the router around and you get a perfect circle sized according to whatever radius you set.

If I was making a round base I think that I'd make the bottom disk solid. The spacer rings could be like donuts, hollow in the center. The top disk would be another solid one. The bottom disk could be attached to the floor with the spacer rings installed, like a bowl, open on top. The top disk would be installed last. Since the interior size of the spacers could be all the same diameter it'd be pretty easy to line them up and stack them.

Don't mind me, I just like figuring things out. Although I have two routers I won't need to make a base for my pedestal because the rear area of my new 21 is raised.

Ron

[jcundy]

Just did the Dicor install on Springfield pedestal. 4" putty knife and hammer to remove the factory tracks that were glued down. A little sanding. Skill saw to cut 2" off 2 sides of the pedestal. Glue on the tiny screws for the plastic end caps. Very simple. Thanks all for the tips and thank you Steve for getting these for us.

[John in Santa Cruz]

a friend last night suggested I could put the 3.5" spacer between the top of the pedestal and the brackets on the dicor slider. I'm going to have to cogitate on this. I'm a little concerned that the pedestal top plate might bang into my knees.

[garyfaulkner00]

if it not too late;
After assembling the slider, mount the slider to your table. After mounting the table, take the plastic end pieces from one side and slide the top and side pieces out. you will now have access to the plates that mount to the Springfield plate. (the Springfield plate has 3 screws holding it down. plate can come off for cutting)
I cut the width of the springfield plate 8 and 9/16 inches. move the slider plates around and the plate will slip between the roller nuts. Use the mounting holes to center on the plate and drill.
Caution, the slider plates are different lengths, use the holes. after all that slide the top back on the rollers and fasten plastic end pieces.

I have a u-shaped area and wanted the table to slide back as far as possible so I cut the springfield plate to offset to the back.

that is how I did it.

[RicVic]

Can anyone tell me if Steve ever received his order of dicor sliders. I haven’t heard back from him.

[Farther]

Originally Posted by garyfaulkner00

I have a u-shaped area and wanted the table to slide back as far as possible so I cut the springfield plate to offset to the back.

Good idea, another option since I have yet to cut the plate. Another advantage is only having to cut the plate once.

[Oldtimer]

Originally Posted by RicVic

Can anyone tell me if Steve ever received his order of dicor sliders. I haven’t heard back from him.

Yes he has

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

a friend last night suggested I could put the 3.5" spacer between the top of the pedestal and the brackets on the dicor slider. I'm going to have to cogitate on this. I'm a little concerned that the pedestal top plate might bang into my knees.

Those corners are sharp. Is raising the entire floor not something you want to do? It can be done in way to return it to stock if you want. You would just be more judicious than I was when cutting the paneling vs. going at it with a drywall knife

[John in Santa Cruz]

the problem with raising the floor, I'd have to raise the heater, the power unit, AND the propane detector. instead, I'll find a 3" riser/footrest for my 5'2" wife who has the short legs. I'm ok with the height of the bench relative to the floor as-is.

I'm opting to follow through on plan "C" now, which will look something like this...



except I'm going to trim the top plate down to 8x6" (its currently 8x12")

[garyfaulkner00]

leave the 12inch width. and put crossways where you lean on table to get up and down. you can just the support.

[garyfaulkner00]

this is how much I cutt off one side. fits perfect.

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by garyfaulkner00

leave the 12inch width. and put crossways where you lean on table to get up and down. you can just the support.

the dicor is only secured to the top plate via those 6" wide brackets you can see sitting on my wood blocks. and if the blocks were any bigger, they'd run into the latch for the -left-right- slide direction.

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

the problem with raising the floor, I'd have to raise the heater(not point for 21 with heater in drawer stack), the power unit, AND the propane detector. instead, I'll find a 3" riser/footrest for my 5'2" wife who has the short legs. I'm ok with the height of the bench relative to the floor as-is.

I'm opting to follow through on plan "C" now, which will look something like this...



except I'm going to trim the top plate down to 8x6" (its currently 8x12")

Just to set the record straight for others considering this- I did not have to raise the heater. That would have been fairly impossible. We got determined to do this after visiting with Leon W & Lindy who had ETI raise the floor about 2 years after they purchased it new. The ergonomics is just not ideal and the flat floor does complicate as you can see installing the Springfield as it will not give you the adequate height due to too much drop from bench top to floor.

[John in Santa Cruz]

do you see my 4x4's (really 3.5x3.5's) in the picture I just posted? there's the missing 3.5"... with the pedestal fully compressed, the table top will be exactly up to the 'bed' height. and with it fully extended it will be the height it was originally, or maybe 1/2" higher.

[Rossue]

One more thing to consider with the Slider is you now have way more extension. So much so that the table can now hit the corner mouldings near the fridge and stove corners. I put on some pipe insulation as a bumper.

Btw- my dining table will slide over my flip up and like the flip up to rest my elbow on.

[RicVic]

Thanks Oldtimer, Now I need to find out why Steve won’t get back tome. I was in the first purchase round and now I have the Springfield mount waiting for the Dicor slider. I don’t know if my PM’s are getting to him or not.

[garyfaulkner00]

the Springfield plate is held down by 3 screws. might be able to put spacer between post top and plate.

[John in Santa Cruz]

yeah, I think this is going to work fine. I just assembled the dicor to the blocks to the springfield, on a work table outside, and I'm liking what I'm seeing so far.

like Gary, I plan on mounting the table as far to the rear as practical, and mounting the pedestal also as far to the rear as practical.

I'm going to try #14x1 wood screws, they protrude from thje bottom of the pedestal base just about exactly 5/8" which is what the original screws protruded from the conical pipe mounts into the floor... I'll be pre-drilling with a 5/32 bit for the #14 flathead screws (#14 is the size of the longer screws provided with the Springfield pedestal for this)

I just caulked the holes in the linoleum from the original bases, so will wait 24 hours for that to cure before I install the pedestal assembly.

[John in Santa Cruz]

btw, I don't have that flipup table there on mine. there's one next to the sink just inside the front door, extremely handy for staging dishes in and out when we're eating outside.

[John in Santa Cruz]

and... its DONE! yay.

it goes almost back to the rear cushion...



all the way forward it only bumps the sides if its slid to the extreme side to side. here it is not quite all teh way forward, and entirely to one side...




it goes down flush with the bed... (no pic)

somewhere in the middle...



some underside views...




I think this is gonna work out great!

I filled the old screw holes with a couple layers of 'wood' glue, squeezing it down into the screwholes, then wiping it off flush, let first layer dry 24h, then added another...

I secured the base to the floor with 8 #14 x 1" phillips flat head plated wood screws. Drilled 5/32" pilot holes just deep enough (1/2" below floor surface) by putting a masking tape marker on the drill bit to act as a depth guide. DO NOT OVER DRILL!!! the screw tips stuck out about 5/8" below the bottom of the pedestal foot, which is just about exactly what the original screws did for the factory cone-bases...