Drilling a hole in the exterior shell.

[gjsheldon]

We ordered and received our 5.0 with no exterior shore power connection. We had ETI wire in the normal 25’ power cord and they just ran it out the passenger side rear access hatch for electrical hookup and testing. Now I’m ready to install a SmartPlug and am wondering what the best hole saw option is for drilling through the fiberglass shell. I’d also be interested in knowing what gauge wire ETI uses when they prewire from the built in EMS to their removable shore power connector.

[tractors1]

A normal hole saw is fine; tape over the target area to reduce chipping. If you're installing a door/hatch an oscillating saw is easiest method to use.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by gjsheldon

I’d also be interested in knowing what gauge wire ETI uses when they prewire from the built in EMS to their removable shore power connector.

10 gauge Romex (orange). Should be the same from the EMS to the power center.

[DWM3]

When I installed our SmartPlug I used a Milwaukee hole saw of the proper diameter and then a jigsaw with a fine blade to square up the opening so that the SmartPlug would just fit. (The fiberglass is so rough that it destroyed the jig saw blade, but didn't affect the hole saw).

But the other thing I did was to reinforce the fiberglass shell with a backing of 3/8" plywood before I made the hole. After removing the insulation from inside the hull I used epoxy to adhere the wood to the shell. The last thing I wanted was to have stress on the shore power cord cause damage to the hull.

[gjsheldon]

Originally Posted by DWM3

When I installed our SmartPlug I used a Milwaukee hole saw of the proper diameter and then a jigsaw with a fine blade to square up the opening so that the SmartPlug would just fit. (The fiberglass is so rough that it destroyed the jig saw blade, but didn't affect the hole saw).

But the other thing I did was to reinforce the fiberglass shell with a backing of 3/8" plywood before I made the hole. After removing the insulation from inside the hull I used epoxy to adhere the wood to the shell. The last thing I wanted was to have stress on the shore power cord cause damage to the hull.

Thanks for your input.
I like the idea of the inside backing. I had the same concern about putting the shell under the repeated force of inserting and removing the SmartPlug. Do you recall what size hole saw you started with?

[Ooshkaboo]

Originally Posted by gjsheldon

Thanks for your input.
I like the idea of the inside backing. I had the same concern about putting the shell under the repeated force of inserting and removing the SmartPlug. Do you recall what size hole saw you started with?

Practice on some scrap material before you make your final cuts.

This will also help with the sizing of your hole.

[Kingfish]

Run the drill in reverse until the gelcoat is thoroughly scored.

[gjsheldon]

Originally Posted by Kingfish

Run the drill in reverse until the gelcoat is thoroughly scored.

It’s advice like this that makes this forum so valuable!

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by Kingfish

Run the drill in reverse until the gelcoat is thoroughly scored.

Just be careful that "saw" doesn't come loose from the arbor when running backwards. This can easily happen with a large hole saw and the results can be messy.