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04-19-2015, 02:18 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC
I've found that what I mostly see when I shine a light out the window is my reflection and not much else.
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The obvious solution is to open the window. Another technique that helps -depending on the design of the flashlight - is to place it right against the glass.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC
... Secondly I think that there's a huge variation in places where people are located for an overnight stop. If I was only stopping in RV parks and public camp grounds I probably wouldn't bother adding extra lighting. But for overnighting in some other areas, to me, it's worth knowing what's out there before you open your door.
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My guess is that you're talking about truck stops, rest stop, and random spots at the side of the road. There's not much better way to wreck the experience of a natural area than flooding it with light.
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04-19-2015, 02:24 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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I can see having lights on all sides, with inside switches. I can even see the appeal of an all-lights "panic" switch, but having them all come on together every time makes no sense to me. Whatever motivates turning on all the lights is somewhere, not everywhere.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandra L
I have had requests to turn off the d/side lights, in some campgrounds, which of course, I did. I have since switched out the d/s lights to have those manual switches, so as not to bother others. I can leave the rest on (non-offending) and still feel a bit safer.
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I think it's reasonable to assume that for every time another camper has requests that a light be turned off, there are many other times that other campers have been annoyed but chose not to say anything.
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04-19-2015, 02:45 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Antelope, California
Trailer: 2009 17B "Suite Escape" pulled by a 2020 Toyota Sienna
Posts: 1,565
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The hope is that lights would be a deterrent for undesirables, especially in sparsely populated spots. This of course assumes one would not wish to be observed. You do have a point Brian, and now when in places with neighbors near, those lights are off.
__________________
Peace and Sunshine
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04-19-2015, 03:42 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Juneau, Alaska
Trailer: 2015 17A - Ready for more Maiden Voyages ....
Posts: 881
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On my build sheet, I'm requesting inside switches for outside lights .... one in the front, D/S, one in the rear and the porch light. My question is since all of these lights have switches integral to the light fixture, are they of sufficient quality to withstand driving rain at freeway speeds? Mostly concerned about the front light w/switch.
I guess too after reading this post, are they bright enough to be useful for dealing with the hitch on a really dark night? From living in Alaska in the winter, I have a semi permanent "growth" on my forehead that serves as a headlight. Maybe be better to eliminate the light (especially in the front) and its corresponding wire hole in the shell ? What do you think?
__________________
Consciousness: That confusing time between naps
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04-19-2015, 05:00 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P
I can see having lights on all sides, with inside switches. I can even see the appeal of an all-lights "panic" switch, but having them all come on together every time makes no sense to me. Whatever motivates turning on all the lights is somewhere, not everywhere.
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My curb side light is independent of the others. The other 3 are switched together. It may not make sense to you but if I hear something unusual in close proximity to me and it's pitch black out there the lights go on.
Ron
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04-19-2015, 05:03 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StarvingHyena
My question is since all of these lights have switches integral to the light fixture, are they of sufficient quality to withstand driving rain at freeway speeds? Mostly concerned about the front light w/switch.
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Short answer, no, especially for the front facing light. They are lower quality lights compared to higher level lights. The plastic lenses just snaps in and is not in the least waterproof for driven rain. A higher quality light has the lense held on with screws against a gasket. That's what I have for my front light.
Ron
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04-19-2015, 05:23 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Southern Appalachians, Georgia
Trailer: 2015 19' Escape "On the Lam"
Posts: 178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC
Short answer, no, especially for the front facing light. They are lower quality lights compared to higher level lights. The plastic lenses just snaps in and is not in the least waterproof for driven rain. A higher quality light has the lense held on with screws against a gasket. That's what I have for my front light.
Ron
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Ron, we debated whether or not to have the front light and have a friend who opted out, for just the reason you stated. We ultimately decided to have a light put above the storage box. Dumb question here--but should the original light/lens leak, can this unit be replaced with the higher quality light? Thanks~
Gae
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04-19-2015, 06:09 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Trailer: 2017 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 15,547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C&G in FL
In almost countless years of RVing, I have never had anyone outside my various trailers at night that caused me concern, so I do not consider it a concern at this time. Obviously, there is always a first time but I'm not going to become a paranoid looking over my shoulder and turning on my lights every time I hear a noise or a raccoon walks by.
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My thinking is along what yours is, Carl. I have heard lots of things over the years outside of trailers, and the thought of lighting things up never even came to mind. I have a light on the driver's side of the trailer (I think ), that has never been used. Even the front one has seen next to no use. If it is dark, and I am docking the trailer, the tail lights seem to do the trick.
And I am with baglo, if my intent is to scare someone/something, I will hit the panic button on the tow key fob.
I do intend to mount a 3-way switch in my passenger side porch light, and one inside, as Jon did. I have had the stuff for over a year, and just have to find the time.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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04-19-2015, 06:09 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,809
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It could but it might take a little extra work. The footprint of my waterproof front light is a little smaller than the factory light. That light has 4 mounting holes plus a hole for the power wires. It might be difficult to find a waterproof light that could use the existing holes. An adaptor plate might be needed to cover the old holes if any aren't covered by a new fixture. Or look for one large enough to cover the existing holes. Or find a marine rated one and send it to ETI.
Ron
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04-19-2015, 06:11 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Central, Pennsylvania
Trailer: Escape#5 2022 E19
Posts: 26,268
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Secret for the front light, drill 2 small drain holes in the bottom of lens, stays dry now.
__________________
Jim
Sometime life gets in the way of living.......
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04-19-2015, 07:13 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2015 Escape 17A
Posts: 2,347
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Not having a trailer yet, I am only speculating, based on tent and tent-trailer camping only:
Only a little light still is bright relative to a fairly dark camping site. My intention is to add a switch within the trailer so I can turn on the running lights. This will light up both sides, front and rear. It will be enough light to discern whatever is there. It will dissuade wrongdoers and animals. It will not be as intense as the white outside lights, so not as likely to disrupt other campers. If I need more, the key-fob panic button will stir the campground.
And yes, we're normally dark.
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04-19-2015, 08:03 PM
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#32
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 11,050
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I can't stand it when folks leave exterior lights on all night. What? You're pointing out all the good stuff in your camp site so if someone wants to steal it.. they know where it is without tripping over other stuff? One nice thing about having lights wired to an interior switch, I can turn them on when I want. I have the three switches at the door. Top switch turns on the ceiling pancake light right inside the door. Middle switch turns on the porch light. Bottom switch turns on the rear (option) and driver side light and the one under the loft. I just need to remember to not screw with the switches on the lights themselves, or the interior switches don't work as I want.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward
2014 Escape 5.0TA
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04-19-2015, 08:30 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Southern Appalachians, Georgia
Trailer: 2015 19' Escape "On the Lam"
Posts: 178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008
Secret for the front light, drill 2 small drain holes in the bottom of lens, stays dry now.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC
It could but it might take a little extra work. The footprint of my waterproof front light is a little smaller than the factory light. That light has 4 mounting holes plus a hole for the power wires. It might be difficult to find a waterproof light that could use the existing holes. An adaptor plate might be needed to cover the old holes if any aren't covered by a new fixture. Or look for one large enough to cover the existing holes. Or find a marine rated one and send it to ETI.
Ron
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Thank you, gentlemen, for the tips. Will try the drilling first. But if necessary, will look for the marine fixture. Too late to send anything to ETI. Maybe I'm jumping ahead of things, since we don't even have the trailer, yet Better dry then sorry, though...
Gae
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04-19-2015, 08:46 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
I can't stand it when folks leave exterior lights on all night. What? You're pointing out all the good stuff in your camp site so if someone wants to steal it.. they know where it is without tripping over other stuff? One nice thing about having lights wired to an interior switch, I can turn them on when I want. I have the three switches at the door. Top switch turns on the ceiling pancake light right inside the door. Middle switch turns on the porch light. Bottom switch turns on the rear (option) and driver side light and the one under the loft. I just need to remember to not screw with the switches on the lights themselves, or the interior switches don't work as I want.
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Donna have almost the same -3 switches top for the center ceiling , next porch , bottom for drivers side . To help marked them under with the labeling machine . Just need to remember not to shut ceiling light off too. Like to come in trailer at night with a light on . Pat
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04-19-2015, 09:10 PM
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#35
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 11,050
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Pat, it's nice and convenient to open the door and hit a switch and know that the light you expect to come on does. I'm happy with my decision to add the switches to the door jam. I know how I camp now and really don't need them, but the future? No crystal ball here. I just knew that all that wiring needed to be done during the build (under the vinyl) and I'm not capable of doing that kind of mod. YMMV
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward
2014 Escape 5.0TA
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04-19-2015, 09:24 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ventura County, California
Trailer: 2013 19 Escape
Posts: 7,204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D.
Pat, it's nice and convenient to open the door and hit a switch and know that the light you expect to come on does. I'm happy with my decision to add the switches to the door jam. I know how I camp now and really don't need them, but the future? No crystal ball here. I just knew that all that wiring needed to be done during the build (under the vinyl) and I'm not capable of doing that kind of mod. YMMV
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You got that right . Getting that wiring done under the vinyl . Glad we did it too . Pat
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04-19-2015, 11:30 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldclimber
Thank you, gentlemen, for the tips. Will try the drilling first. But if necessary, will look for the marine fixture. Too late to send anything to ETI. Maybe I'm jumping ahead of things, since we don't even have the trailer, yet Better dry then sorry, though...
Gae
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My only problem with the drilling holes to let water out is that by then the damage is done. The socket rusts and the light becomes unreliable or stops working entirely.
If I had to use the factory type facing forward I'd try to preempt corrosion by (shush, don't let Donna hear) put a bead of silicone around the edge of the lens to make it more waterproof.
Ron
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04-19-2015, 11:59 PM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Juneau, Alaska
Trailer: 2015 17A - Ready for more Maiden Voyages ....
Posts: 881
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Well, my real concern in my posting about the water tightness of the front light is the switch. Does the switch at least have a rubber boot over it? I asked Chrystal if ETI could install a light up front that did not have a switch integral with the light. Answer was no.
Anyone out there having trouble with their exterior lights? And what has been the problem?
Thanks .... Tom
__________________
Consciousness: That confusing time between naps
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04-20-2015, 12:34 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1700
Posts: 14,935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StarvingHyena
Well, my real concern in my posting about the water tightness of the front light is the switch. Does the switch at least have a rubber boot over it? I asked Chrystal if ETI could install a light up front that did not have a switch integral with the light. Answer was no.
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It looks like a very common style of exterior light - if a variation from standard practice at the factory is not practical, and the switch is a problem, a swap for a fixture without a switch later is likely to be straightforward.
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04-20-2015, 01:08 AM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Van., British Columbia
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19, sold; 2019 Escape 21, Sept. 2019
Posts: 8,809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StarvingHyena
Well, my real concern in my posting about the water tightness of the front light is the switch. Does the switch at least have a rubber boot over it? I asked Chrystal if ETI could install a light up front that did not have a switch integral with the light. Answer was no.
Anyone out there having trouble with their exterior lights? And what has been the problem?
Thanks .... Tom
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Actually I'd be less concerned with the weather proofness of the switch then the loose fitting lens. I've simply disconnected mine and they're no longer functional. The more exposed the light is to weather the more likely it will get water inside that will rust the lamp socket etc.
Ron
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