Thanks for the kind words, I'm not that smart; I just like to use things in ways they weren't intended.
This link is for the hinge that attaches the sink to the wall. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=11375
I squeezed the female hinge half closed a bit to take out slack and used a slightly larger diameter pin to mate the hinge halves. I didn't ream the pin hole larger, just used a slightly larger pin. This geatly stiffened the joint.
This is the link for the hook I used as the sink up lock fitting. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=11383
The up lock fitting is mounted on a plastic disc to protect the fiberglass. The plastic disc is one of these wall protectors http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
I sanded the plastic disc to remove the texture and painted it white.
The galley wall and shower liner are hollow so I had to strengthen them to mount the up lock. The galley wall is about an inch thick with thin wood on both sides. The shower liner has about a one inch gap between it and the wall. I injected insulating foam into both voids to strengthen the wall and used 2 1/2 inch long bolts with a tight fit to mount the up lock. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
The up lock bolts go through the galley wall to a small plastic doubler plate at the same height as the cook top vent. The space between the galley wall and the cooktop vent is small so the doubler plate and nuts are out of view. The stiffened wall, up lock and mount are adequate to hold the sink in the up position.
To protect the lip of the sink from fretting due to the up lock fitting, I installed a small piece of clear plastic that is usually used to protect the edge of car doors.
The drain line is a flexible 5/8 inch diameter dishwasher drain line hooked up to a Valterra RF890 swivel drain http://www.valterra.com/rv/plumbing_...accessorie.htm
. The other end of the drain line is mated to a standard 3/4 inch PVC elbow fitting with female threads on one side and a slip fit on the other. From there the drain uses normal PVC and ABS fittings to mate with the trailer plumbing.
The outer diameter of the flexible drain line fits snug into the PVC female threaded elbow and I coated both with a bit of silicone before screwing them together.
That pretty much wraps it up. I started out thinking I'd have to remove half of the fiberglass liner to get this done, luckily this method is not as intrusive and if I ever sell the trailer, the next owner can easily remove everything and patch the wall.