Location: Victoria, Vancouver Island, British Columbia
Trailer: 2015 5.0 TA
Posts: 394
Fridge RMD8555 install upgrade
A little while ago, I decided to see if I could improve the performance my fridge RMD8555 from the previous generation of trailers. There are many threads relating the short comings of the RMD series and lots of possible solutions. Thanks to Pat and others who have travelled this path with some success.
I started with removing the fridge, had to build a platform (see last photo), undo two wires, unplug and disconnect the propane, all fairly easy. The hardest part is getting a hold of it to pull and push.
Given my perfectionist tendencies, I was disappointed with how the fridge was installed in 2015. There was a bit of bat insulation on the sides, the top had nothing and was open to the un-insulated shell. If the sun was out heating up the roof, the fridge also warming up, guess this was why the freezer could never make ice.
At the back there was a baffle to help direct the air, but was not made to fit properly. Too close to the fridge at the bottom and too far away at the top so most of the air avoided the condenser fins. In addition, the fiberglass shell had no insulation.
Removed the bat insulation, baffle, cleaned up all the spray foam bulging out everywhere. Added 1 1/2 inch of high density foam board to the sides and top. Dometic specs call for 0 to1/4 inch at the sides and top, not 1/2 to 8 inches as I had.
Insulated the fiberglass with Reflctix (same as ETI does now) and added a insulated baffle that keeps the air moving up the back of the fridge and though the condenser. As shown in the photos, I covered the whole enclosure in the Reflectix type of insulation. I did this because it is easy to get a smooth surface for airflow, it has a class A/class 1 fire rating and easy to use. I did place a piece of aluminum sheet where the fridge exhaust is to help dissipate heat.
My goal was to get the installation as close to what the fridge manufacturer wants before I do anything else. The last this to do is to get a bigger lower vent as the existing Norcold one is undersized.
Best mod I did was to run a 3 inch metal not plastic) flexible duct from the burner exhaust up to the bug shield under the cap on the roof. Wired it in place. Then the hot air can't go anywhere else but out.
Looking at your pictures gave me déjà vu. I agree with you that Escape doesn't do the best job they could installing the refrigerators. My trailer is a 2017 and as the first pic attached shows - they didn't improve much since they built your trailer.
It's not shown in the pics but I also added weatherstripping seals along the sides and top at the back of the fridge such that when the fridge is installed, it seals air tight to the reflectix.
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
Location: Victoria, Vancouver Island, British Columbia
Trailer: 2015 5.0 TA
Posts: 394
Quote:
Originally Posted by tractors1
Best mod I did was to run a 3 inch metal not plastic) flexible duct from the burner exhaust up to the bug shield under the cap on the roof. Wired it in place. Then the hot air can't go anywhere else but out.
I saw your photos of that. The manual seems to indicate not to modify the exhaust/flue, but if it works? Will have to see what temps I get.
I saw your photos of that. The manual seems to indicate not to modify the exhaust/flue, but if it works? Will have to see what temps I get.
Glad to see you doing this and interested in seeing what you do with the exterior vent which may be a reason why the RML & RMD 8555 has had problems in higher temps.
IIRC, Elongest first posted the flexible vent over the burner and I did it. It didn't work for me and I removed it.
__________________
"We gotta get as far away as we can!"
- Russell Casse, Independence Day
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21' pulled with 2014 Silverado Crewcab
Posts: 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by tractors1
Best mod I did was to run a 3 inch metal not plastic) flexible duct from the burner exhaust up to the bug shield under the cap on the roof. Wired it in place. Then the hot air can't go anywhere else but out.
I ran the same 3" duct from the burner exhaust working through the top side vent. The wood was being singed from the heat being too close. Seemed to help performace as well.
I intend to pull the frig, insulate, and extend and turn the flue to get it away from the wood in the back. I was never real happy with the 3 inch flex. This should also get the exhaust away from the coils up top. Been puting it off since it will be a bunch of work.
__________________
Carl,
"Isn't it amazing how much stuff we get done the day before vacation?"
Zig Ziglar
I did similar improvements plus I added one of these:
TITAN- 12V DC IP55 Waterproof Double Rack Mount Ventilation Cooling Fan with Timer and Speed Controller- TTC-SC20 (120mm). I bought it off Amazon.
I mounted it on the vent area on the fin side of the fridge. It seems well engineered and is very quiet.
We haven't had hot weather yet, so I haven't been able to test these mods.
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21' pulled with 2014 Silverado Crewcab
Posts: 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris R
A little while ago, I decided to see if I could improve the performance my fridge RMD8555 from the previous generation of trailers. There are many threads relating the short comings of the RMD series and lots of possible solutions. Thanks to Pat and others who have travelled this path with some success.
I started with removing the fridge, had to build a platform (see last photo), undo two wires, unplug and disconnect the propane, all fairly easy. The hardest part is getting a hold of it to pull and push.
Given my perfectionist tendencies, I was disappointed with how the fridge was installed in 2015. There was a bit of bat insulation on the sides, the top had nothing and was open to the un-insulated shell. If the sun was out heating up the roof, the fridge also warming up, guess this was why the freezer could never make ice.
At the back there was a baffle to help direct the air, but was not made to fit properly. Too close to the fridge at the bottom and too far away at the top so most of the air avoided the condenser fins. In addition, the fiberglass shell had no insulation.
Removed the bat insulation, baffle, cleaned up all the spray foam bulging out everywhere. Added 1 1/2 inch of high density foam board to the sides and top. Dometic specs call for 0 to1/4 inch at the sides and top, not 1/2 to 8 inches as I had.
Insulated the fiberglass with Reflctix (same as ETI does now) and added a insulated baffle that keeps the air moving up the back of the fridge and though the condenser. As shown in the photos, I covered the whole enclosure in the Reflectix type of insulation. I did this because it is easy to get a smooth surface for airflow, it has a class A/class 1 fire rating and easy to use. I did place a piece of aluminum sheet where the fridge exhaust is to help dissipate heat.
My goal was to get the installation as close to what the fridge manufacturer wants before I do anything else. The last this to do is to get a bigger lower vent as the existing Norcold one is undersized.
How did you attach your reflection?
__________________
Carl,
"Isn't it amazing how much stuff we get done the day before vacation?"
Zig Ziglar
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21' pulled with 2014 Silverado Crewcab
Posts: 854
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris R
A little while ago, I decided to see if I could improve the performance my fridge RMD8555 from the previous generation of trailers. There are many threads relating the short comings of the RMD series and lots of possible solutions. Thanks to Pat and others who have travelled this path with some success.
I started with removing the fridge, had to build a platform (see last photo), undo two wires, unplug and disconnect the propane, all fairly easy. The hardest part is getting a hold of it to pull and push.
Given my perfectionist tendencies, I was disappointed with how the fridge was installed in 2015. There was a bit of bat insulation on the sides, the top had nothing and was open to the un-insulated shell. If the sun was out heating up the roof, the fridge also warming up, guess this was why the freezer could never make ice.
At the back there was a baffle to help direct the air, but was not made to fit properly. Too close to the fridge at the bottom and too far away at the top so most of the air avoided the condenser fins. In addition, the fiberglass shell had no insulation.
Removed the bat insulation, baffle, cleaned up all the spray foam bulging out everywhere. Added 1 1/2 inch of high density foam board to the sides and top. Dometic specs call for 0 to1/4 inch at the sides and top, not 1/2 to 8 inches as I had.
Insulated the fiberglass with Reflctix (same as ETI does now) and added a insulated baffle that keeps the air moving up the back of the fridge and though the condenser. As shown in the photos, I covered the whole enclosure in the Reflectix type of insulation. I did this because it is easy to get a smooth surface for airflow, it has a class A/class 1 fire rating and easy to use. I did place a piece of aluminum sheet where the fridge exhaust is to help dissipate heat.
My goal was to get the installation as close to what the fridge manufacturer wants before I do anything else. The last this to do is to get a bigger lower vent as the existing Norcold one is undersized.
Some old posts reference removal of four screws to get the fridge out. Where are those located? Looking yesterday I could not spot them. Trying to work up motivation to yank mine.
__________________
Carl,
"Isn't it amazing how much stuff we get done the day before vacation?"
Zig Ziglar
I did all the mods mentioned and each helped. The 8555 was sold as a lightweight frig. with a non metal box. The box is thin molded foam. Insulating the trailer cavity walls retains the heat as well as the hot evaporator section is attached to the back wall which transfers heat into the box. I took off the door shelves but retained the main shelves and cut and lined the inside of the frig. and door with 1" rigid foam. I then sealed the joints with HVAC tape. I lost a little inside capacity but the frig. cooled down faster and operated in 90 deg. temps without issue. The big issue was remembering to turn down the cooling at night. I sold the trailer a year after the mod. so I can't tell you how it did long term but it worked great for a year.
Eddie
I did all the mods mentioned and each helped. The 8555 was sold as a lightweight frig. with a non metal box. The box is thin molded foam. Insulating the trailer cavity walls retains the heat as well as the hot evaporator section is attached to the back wall which transfers heat into the box. I took off the door shelves but retained the main shelves and cut and lined the inside of the frig. and door with 1" rigid foam. I then sealed the joints with HVAC tape. I lost a little inside capacity but the frig. cooled down faster and operated in 90 deg. temps without issue. The big issue was remembering to turn down the cooling at night. I sold the trailer a year after the mod. so I can't tell you how it did long term but it worked great for a year.
Eddie
Escape had installed a rubber seal at the back of our refrigerator which we kept ,it kept the heat from inside the refrigerator cavity from the boiler , outside heat ,etc. Inside that refrigerator cavity is lined with insulation sides , top and the bottom sealed . The foam insulation we used has a foil backing to it . The refrigerator was not installed to Dometics instructions .By Escape .Some of those problems was the side shape of the trailer . That would of required some engineering to accomplish . Chris , Ron and others did a great job accomplishing that. Even the Dometic instructions call for insulation as some of us have done as being a important step . So making a insulated , sealed cavity is a important step in improving your refrigerator performance . Probably making a new trailer with straight sidewalls helped with the proper clearances that needed to be achieved that couldn’t be done easily with our Classic trailers and it’s curved walls unless you did that engineering first .
Most of us saw a problem like you did and fixed it . Exhausting heat and getting it to rise is also a needed fix .
Good you worked to solve it and many of us did too . Pat
Location: Victoria, Vancouver Island, British Columbia
Trailer: 2015 5.0 TA
Posts: 394
The last part of this upgrade was to install a larger lower vent to allow more air to improve the chimney effect. Because the older Escapes had slightly curved sides, a lower indent molded into the shell and limited distance between the indent and the belly band, I could not find a larger vent that fit the space. I did not want to take on major fibreglass mods.
So I comprised on the mid size vent from Dometic (used on the 17B). Similar air volume as the old Norcold one, but I hope the air will flow better because of the design/shape.
The new vent has one other advantage, it is 3 inches higher which allows better access to the back of the fridge. After cutting the hole larger, I added glued wood around the hole for reinforcing and to screw the new vent to.
One day hopefully we will be camping again and can test the changes.
The last part of this upgrade was to install a larger lower vent to allow more air to improve the chimney effect. Because the older Escapes had slightly curved sides, a lower indent molded into the shell and limited distance between the indent and the belly band, I could not find a larger vent that fit the space. I did not want to take on major fibreglass mods.
So I comprised on the mid size vent from Dometic (used on the 17B). Similar air volume as the old Norcold one, but I hope the air will flow better because of the design/shape.
The new vent has one other advantage, it is 3 inches higher which allows better access to the back of the fridge. After cutting the hole larger, I added glued wood around the hole for reinforcing and to screw the new vent to.
One day hopefully we will be camping again and can test the changes.
The 8555 manual calls for a specific vent door that was larger than the vent door Escape installed. I ordered it but never installed it because the interior foam solved my cooling issue.
There is a channel molded in the interior back wall for cooling air flow behind the shelves I filled the channel with the 1" foam. I think filling the channel with foam had the biggest effect on cooling since the heat load is on the rear wall. Your condenser coils, burner and boiler (Which the exhaust stack can reach 300F.) are attached to the rear of the frig. only inches away from your cooling box. Once I filled the cooling air channel in the frig. with foam I also added an interior frig. fan to move the cold air.
Eddie
Location: Victoria, Vancouver Island, British Columbia
Trailer: 2015 5.0 TA
Posts: 394
Quote:
Originally Posted by elongest
The 8555 manual calls for a specific vent door that was larger than the vent door Escape installed. I ordered it but never installed it because the interior foam solved my cooling issue.
There is a channel molded in the interior back wall for cooling air flow behind the shelves I filled the channel with the 1" foam. I think filling the channel with foam had the biggest effect on cooling since the heat load is on the rear wall. Your condenser coils, burner and boiler (Which the exhaust stack can reach 300F.) are attached to the rear of the frig. only inches away from your cooling box. Once I filled the cooling air channel in the frig. with foam I also added an interior frig. fan to move the cold air.
Eddie
Could not get the recommended vent in N. America, 'out of stock', did not want to get it from UK, NZ, etc., so the comprise.
Not quite sure what you mean by "channel"?
I did place an aluminum sheet on the back wall/baffle near the exit of the exhaust, the original wood baffle was singed from the exhaust.
I have done a similar operation of pulling the RMD8555 and insulting the cavity with the foil backed insulation. I also fabricated an aluminum channel to direct hot air up to the rooftop vent. This did make a substantial difference.
One additional issue I continued to have was flame outs occurring while driving. I mounted a remote sensor inside the refrigerator with a monitor in the tow. I would periodically check temperatures and the steady warming inside the refrigerator confirmed that the refrigerator was not cooling when driving on gas.
The solution came from elongest who suggested a baffle system to cover the flame. The system has worked well with the exception of those times when the wind blows directly onto the lower external vent. That wind seems to blow out the flame. The fourth image is an attempt to use a furnace filter to eliminate the flame out. It did not work.
__________________
Paul and Janet Braun
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 now 2012 Toyota Sequoia V8
Escape 19' 2010 now 2014 Escape 21'
I was also very disappointed with RM8551 (4.3ft²) installation on my 2012 Escape 5.0.
I added insulation, especially on the outside wall where the sun can cause a great deal of heating. There was more than enough room, with clearance exceeding Dometic installation requirements... which of course, was part of the problem... and it gets a bit tricky here.
For the RM8xxx, Dometic USA requires 2.32"-3.1" (59mm-80mm), while Dometic GmbH (Germany) specifies 15mm-20mm (0.6"-0.8"). Older Dometic models specify minimums between 0-25mm (1"). I believe anything above an inch is detrimental to condenser cooling. See reference images below.
I also added a flu extension similar to that which Dometic sells in Australia. This brings the exhaust above the condenser and points it out through the vent. Easy to make out of copper pipe. See photos below.
And finally, I added a very low rpm fan adjacent to the 2 stock cooling fans below the condenser. The stock fans only come on when the condenser gets extremely hot. The added fan is enabled by a switch on the front panel, and when this is on, it is active whenever the fridge is cooling. This I use only on hot days to "encourage" airflow.
After all these mods I can say that my RM8551 works quite well at all elevations and temperatures. Each mod provided a noticeable improvement in performance; which is basically from a baseline of the original not working above 20°C or 1000m (68°F or 3300ft).
That being said, I hate this fridge. I've added metal brackets at every stress point, rebuilt the hinges and door lock, and installed t-nuts and bolts to hold the bloody thing in place. Of course what I've installed is just about the only metal on the fridge. It's a piece of plastic crap!
I believe your opinion of this refrigerator is shared by many other owners. We have not gotten into the broken shelves, elevation over 4,500 feet, door compartments cracking, eyebrow boards, main boards, crushed door gaskets, exorbitant parts prices, over the top shipping costs and non existent technical support. All which can come with owning this refrigerator.
It appears if you throw enough money and time at it, you may have a workable refrigerator. At the same time there are some owners, perhaps purchasers toward the end of its cycle, who have not had as many issues. I would guess there may have been less than 100 installed in Escapes. Many came as warranty replacement refrigerators for another POS from Dometic, the RML 8555 6.7.
__________________
Paul and Janet Braun
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 now 2012 Toyota Sequoia V8
Escape 19' 2010 now 2014 Escape 21'
Linear Mode
