Galley retractable receptacle

[rubicon327]

The early 19's don't have a receptacle to conveniently use with countertop appliances like the newer trailers along the front upper area of the base cabinet. Cords were getting draped around the bulkhead and the mattress interferes. Also not GFI protected. Became inspired by cpaharley and Jim Bennett's retractable receptacles so decided to add one. Away from the sink was best and with the flush Dickinson cooktop there is a nice flat area for an appliance. Drilled a 3" hole. Routed wiring across the cabinetry and wired into the receptacle on the lower end of the cabinet by the door. This is GFI protected as it is downstream on the same circuit as the outside GFI so my new outlets are now also protected. Should provide greater versatility for power in the galley.

[NW Cat Owner]

Cool!

[rubicon327]

Adding the product that I used...
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Pop-Up-.../dp/B00AAZKDTS

[Rrgramps]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Adding the product that I used...
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Pop-Up-.../dp/B00AAZKDTS

Good job!

Yep. I have several variations in my Amazon cart. It’s by far the better solution to ETI’s front-of-counter receptacle; which is easily bumped or disengaged when sliding by someone in the aisle way. There are several examples on this forum, that are good too.

[dosby]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Adding the product that I used...
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Pop-Up-.../dp/B00AAZKDTS

I wonder if it could handle 20A. Or at least 15. I am thinking 700w IP and 1000w kettle at the same time.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by dosby

I wonder if it could handle 20A. Or at least 15. I am thinking 700w IP and 1000w kettle at the same time.

If you READ the Amazon description, it clearly states it is rated for 12 amps. The duplex outlets ETI installs are all on 15 amp breakers. So wonder no more, but if you choose to try running 1700 watts through it at the same time, have a fire extinguisher at hand in the event that the load does not trip the breaker.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by dosby

I wonder if it could handle 20A. Or at least 15. I am thinking 700w IP and 1000w kettle at the same time.

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

If you READ the Amazon description, it clearly states it is rated for 12 amps. The duplex outlets ETI installs are all on 15 amp breakers. So wonder no more, but if you choose to try running 1700 watts through it at the same time, have a fire extinguisher at hand in the event that the load does not trip the breaker.

Yes rated for 12A. There are others out there rated higher but as Carl says please respect that several outlets are strung on a 15A breaker. It's not like a typical house kitchen. Without running some dedicated circuits with appropriate sized wiring you need to stay within the limits of what is there.

[dosby]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Yes rated for 12A. There are others out there rated higher but as Carl says please respect that several outlets are strung on a 15A breaker. It's not like a typical house kitchen. Without running some dedicated circuits with appropriate sized wiring you need to stay within the limits of what is there.

I am pretty sure that popup outlet can handle 15A, electricals are usually rated lower than what they could handle. All wires need to be in a metal conduit, anyway, so the risk of fire is minimal. The counter outlet box is also all metal.

I didn't know all trailer's breakers were only 15A. I guess it makes sense, and the conduits can be much slimmer with 15A.

I could not find a similar 15A rated popup on Amazon - the one w/t USBs, slim enough, etc. Also, 2 outlets instead of 3 would be ideal and would reduce the overall length of the device.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by dosby

I could not find a similar 15A rated popup on Amazon - the one w/t USBs, slim enough, etc. Also, 2 outlets instead of 3 would be ideal and would reduce the overall length of the device.

Pricey but many options here that might give you some ideas.
https://www.kitchenpowerpopups.com/c...perage_15-amps

[dosby]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Pricey but many options here that might give you some ideas.
https://www.kitchenpowerpopups.com/c...perage_15-amps

Oh, $189, and may not even accommodate all types of plugs (flat, reversed, oversized), compared to that Hafele. I guess I had better run and measure whether I have 12" space and buy that Hafele.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by dosby

I am pretty sure that popup outlet can handle 15A, electricals are usually rated lower than what they could handle.

That's like "trucks are rated lower than they can handle, so it's okay if I overload it"... no.

Originally Posted by dosby

All wires need to be in a metal conduit, anyway, so the risk of fire is minimal.

That may be the building code where you live, but it is not generally true, does not apply to RVs, and is not true of an Escape (or any other RV that I have seen). The 120 V AC wiring in an Escape is, like most of this wiring in residences in North America, done in nonmetallic-sheathed cable; that cabling is perfectly safe if not abused.

[Greatboatz3]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Yes rated for 12A. There are others out there rated higher but as Carl says please respect that several outlets are strung on a 15A breaker. It's not like a typical house kitchen. Without running some dedicated circuits with appropriate sized wiring you need to stay within the limits of what is there.

Does anyone know how many outlets are on the same circuits in the galley? Is it practical to run a 20 amp circuit into the galley or any where else in a trailer? It would be nice to run an electric frying pan and a coffee maker outside. Would the power center handle a 20 amp fuse or breaker. Also is the microwave on a shared or separate circuit?

[RangerMan]

Originally Posted by Greatboatz3

Does anyone know how many outlets are on the same circuits in the galley? Is it practical to run a 20 amp circuit into the galley or any where else in a trailer? It would be nice to run an electric frying pan and a coffee maker outside. Would the power center handle a 20 amp fuse or breaker. Also is the microwave on a shared or separate circuit?

This diagram has the AC/DC circuits connections in the power center. Also the sub panel if you have the ETI installed Inverter. Some of the point to point wiring will not be the same as your trailer tho. IE: This diagram has the Victron battery monitor and solar installed.

From tdf texas.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by RangerMan

This diagram has the AC/DC circuits connections in the power center. Also the sub panel if you have the ETI installed Inverter. Some of the point to point wiring will not be the same as your trailer tho. IE: This diagram has the Victron battery monitor and solar installed.

From tdf texas.

Point to point is probably fairly accurate but keep in mind that tdf-texas added two breakers in his sub panel. I think three of those circuits leaving the sub panel are original (two were probably twinned together to one breaker) and I think he added the dedicated circuit for the microwave. Maybe he will weigh in but my point is this is not the stock layout.

[dosby]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

The 120 V AC wiring in an Escape is, like most of this wiring in residences in North America, done in nonmetallic-sheathed cable; that cabling is perfectly safe if not abused.

In my 2021 17B trailer, all AC wires I can see are in a conduit. The ones I can't see (behind the walls) could be bare, yes, but in all cabinets, including sink cabinet, they should be in a metal conduit. That is where the popup outlet wiring would be, in a sink cab.
I would use something like https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwir...9221/202316372

[RangerMan]

That was the point I was trying to make. Not stock. Just didn't say it as well as I could have.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by dosby

In my 2021 17B trailer, all AC wires I can see are in a conduit. The ones I can't see (behind the walls) could be bare, yes, but in all cabinets, including sink cabinet, they should be in a metal conduit. That is where the popup outlet wiring would be, in a sink cab.
I would use something like https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwir...9221/202316372

How can you see the AC wires if they are in a conduit?

All kidding aside, absolutely none of the visible (not in walls) AC wiring in my 2015 5.0TA is in conduit, and as Brian stated earlier, none of my previous trailers were wired using conduit. Conduit is frequently used when individual insulated wires (without an outer sheath) are run in an industrial building or in a workshop where the walls might not be finished and the wiring could be inadvertently damaged. While I haven’t seen a 2021 Escape yet, every Escape I have seen uses what is commonly called Romex, not encased in any type of conduit. Might I ask that you post a photo showing the conduit in your sink cabinet?

[dosby]

Here are the pics showing AC wires in a conduit.
Also, when looking under the sink, I realized I won't be able to use the Hafele popup outlet
There is an exterior shower stuff right behind the faucet.
Now I am thinking of routing the wire to the far right corner of the counter, behind the cooktop, and then straight up to the hood (would be exposed) to a surface-mounted outlet right under the hood's far right corner. Can't think of any other location.

[Centex]

Originally Posted by dosby

Here are the pics showing AC wires in a conduit.

I don't want to get into a silly semantic battle, but few folks consider the pictured "corrugated split loom" an "electrical conduit". Obviously, YMMV.

Each has its place, the former being quite common in RV applications, the latter (as considered by most folks) not so much.

Originally Posted by dosby

All wires need to be in a metal conduit, anyway, so the risk of fire is minimal.

BTW, if you do install metallic boxes and/or metallic conduit please be attentive to grounding / bonding requirements lest you introduce a different sort of electrocution / fire risk.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by dosby

Here are the pics showing AC wires in a conduit.

Not a conduit.