High Lift and Stabilizers (17B)

[Vermilye]

On my 17, I didn't use the sand pads to attach the cedar blocks mentioned in a previous post. Made a set of angle brackets & a bolt. I just got tired of digging out & stacking up the lego blocks, although I still carry them.

[Bobbie54]

I often have to use the blocks on my raised 15. (Which I plan to lower back down but haven't done yet.) Right now, on an almost-level site, I have them under the back only. But you get more stability side to side if they aren't down as far so the blocks might be always helpful. Does seem like it would make sense to have longer stailiizers but there wouldn't be a whole lot of room for them.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Bobbie54

Does seem like it would make sense to have longer stailiizers but there wouldn't be a whole lot of room for them.

The outer ends of the longer jacks would be in exactly the same place; the only difference would be that the inner ends would be closer to the middle of the trailer. These jacks are mounted on a crossmember which goes all the way across the trailer frame... so where would there be a lack of room? Do the current jacks almost meet at the middle?

Illustration from the installation manual (showing the frame of a wider trailer):

[Bobbie54]

I think the current ones do almost meet at the middle but I'd have to check. At any rate, fully extended they are nearly vertical and closer to the center of the trailer. So longer ones would be able to extend down and out and provide more side to side support.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Bobbie54

I think the current ones do almost meet at the middle but I'd have to check. At any rate, fully extended they are nearly vertical and closer to the center of the trailer. So longer ones would be able to extend down and out and provide more side to side support.

The way these single-leg jacks are designed, the foot goes straight down. The width between the feet is constant, regardless of how far they are extended or how far they can extend.

Escape mounts them in the normal way, to the frame rails without an extension (as shown), so the side-to-side distance between the feet is the frame spacing.

Fun trivia: the current style of Escape is about 4 inches wider between the frame rails than the original design (for the same model), which gives the trailer a 4" wider track dimension... and 4" wider stance between the jacks.

[richardr]

It seems like the further the stabilizer is extended, the more susceptible it is to horizontal stress. Is there a maximum they should be extended, short of the fully extended stop?

Also, how do you torque the stabilizers to balance the trailer weight they are holding? At first I thought it would be by torquing them all to the same amount. But wouldn't the torque need to be reduced for the stabilizers that are extended further?

I asked about a recommended method of balancing the load on the stabilizers at the Escape new trailer orientation, but I didn't get an answer. For the Casita with only rear stabilizers we were told at orientation to level the trailer front to back, then lower the front jack 10 turns, drop the stabilizers so they rested on the ground, then raise the jack 14 turns. It worked very well.

[Dave Walter]

Originally Posted by richardr

It seems like the further the stabilizer is extended, the more susceptible it is to horizontal stress. Is there a maximum they should be extended, short of the fully extended stop?

Also, how do you torque the stabilizers to balance the trailer weight they are holding? At first I thought it would be by torquing them all to the same amount. But wouldn't the torque need to be reduced for the stabilizers that are extended further?

I asked about a recommended method of balancing the load on the stabilizers at the Escape new trailer orientation, but I didn't get an answer. For the Casita with only rear stabilizers we were told at orientation to level the trailer front to back, then lower the front jack 10 turns, drop the stabilizers so they rested on the ground, then raise the jack 14 turns. It worked very well.

The stabilizers on your Escape are not intended to support the weight of your trailer. Just level the trailer side to side and then front to back. Then crank down the stabilizers until they are snug with the ground.

[cpaharley2008]

You will find that the front stabilizers being closer to the ground will be the easiest to use and once ground contact is made I stop. The rear, being higher may require some plastic blocks to keep the length of travel short, because the longer they stretch, the less effective they become.Again i only tighten down to ground contact, once I see the trailer starts to rise I stop. They are only for stabilizing and not raising the trailer, that is what the front tongue jack does and which you do first to level the trailer before lowering any stabilizers.

[Wunfiddy]

How much lift does the high lift axle give anyways? I assume its a bigger spacer between axle and frame but nothing on escapes site about it.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Wunfiddy

How much lift does the high lift axle give anyways? I assume its a bigger spacer between axle and frame but nothing on escapes site about it.

The current lift option is a Dexter kit, which is indeed a spacer between the axle brackets and the trailer frame on each side... 2-5/8" high.

Dexter Frame Spacer Kits
K71-707-01 - single axle
K71-707-02 - tandem axle
(for Torflex #10)

[Frank Bland]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

The current lift option is a Dexter kit, which is indeed a spacer between the axle brackets and the trailer frame on each side... 2-5/8" high.

Dexter Frame Spacer Kits
K71-707-01 - single axle
K71-707-02 - tandem axle
(for Torflex #10)

I would love to add a bit of lift to my 2014 21'. Does anyone know if that tandem axle kit is correct for my classic low rider?

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Frank Bland

I would love to add a bit of lift to my 2014 21'. Does anyone know if that tandem axle kit is correct for my classic low rider?

The Torflex axles used by Escape on the 21' have always been the same model (#10), so it is the same kit. The kit does have a restriction: it is not for Torflex axles with the extra-tall bracket, but I don't think Escape ever used that - a 21' owner could check. Escape previously used a different spacer system, but probably only because the Dexter kit was not yet available.

[SFDavis50]

While talking to Dennis at ETI he suggested buying a 4" X 6" fence post and cut it into 8" lengths. That way you have three lengths to choose from when putting them under the stabilizers or jack posts. I have some left over stacking bed lifts which are 3" and 5" (stackable for 8") and I use them under the rear stabilizers on the 5.0TA. They are pretty strong but I also believe they will break before the BAL jacks do. I use the bright red Anderson Jack Blocks on the front electric jacks. They work very well but are big and heavy.
Whenever I go to Home Depot I look in the 70% off scrap lumber bin for pieces of wood which might be useable.

[J Mac]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

The current lift option is a Dexter kit, which is indeed a spacer between the axle brackets and the trailer frame on each side... 2-5/8" high.

Dexter Frame Spacer Kits
K71-707-01 - single axle
K71-707-02 - tandem axle
(for Torflex #10)

Is installing one of these kits a big job?

[Frank Bland]

I'm not sure about these kits but I did a different kit (Orbital Machine Works) on my Casita and it was pretty easy. You will need the proper jacks and jack stands for safety.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by J Mac

Is installing one of these kits a big job?

Just two bolts to remove per side of each axle, then the same bolts to attach the spacers in their place, and one more set of the same number of bolts to attach the axles to the spacers... after taking the wheels off. The biggest challenge should be jacking up the trailer on stands (get the tires 3" off the ground), and supporting each axle while it's unbolted... well, that and not breaking connections in the brake wires (the only other things attached to the axles). There's no picky little stuff, or precision work. It should be routine for any mechanical shop, and reasonable for anyone who does their own automotive suspension or brake work.

[h2owmn]

I currently own a trail boss chalet, which is 26 inches off the ground. I got a set of risers that are meant to lift a bed like in a dorm. There are 8 pieces, 4- 5inch and 4- 3 inch. They can be stacked so that the total height is 8 inches, or used independently for 5 or 3 inch rise. I cut four pieces of ensulite sleeping pad foam about 10 x 10 to cushion the bottom from gravel, etc. They are pretty light and it doesn't take much time to distribute them around the perimeter and use the drill to crank down the stabilizers. An easier and taller rise than a lot of lynx blocks.

[Yukon Escape]

Our Escape 19, has spent quite a bit of time, in locations, where stabilizer legs do not work.
That and I did not to carry blocks of wood to put under the tires to level the trailer.
To solve the problem I installed scissors jacks.
The jacks I installed are: "RVpro Jacks" .
I installed model number 14-0843, this model has a 28 inch lift.
It now takes maximum 10 minutes to now level the trailer. Simply Park the trailer, and level it.
Doug

[Greg A]

Originally Posted by Yukon Escape

Our Escape 19, has spent quite a bit of time, in locations, where stabilizer legs do not work.
That and I did not to carry blocks of wood to put under the tires to level the trailer.
To solve the problem I installed scissors jacks.
The jacks I installed are: "RVpro Jacks" .
I installed model number 14-0843, this model has a 28 inch lift.
It now takes maximum 10 minutes to now level the trailer. Simply Park the trailer, and level it.
Doug

Doug,
Did that require any mod or addl drilling to swap those or did it install with existing holes?

[cpaharley2008]

If I'm not mistaken but some of the earlier Escapes had 3" frames (now 4") and even with the 4" frame it is not recommended to jack or raise the trailer via the frame. Jacks are used under the axles or blocks under the tires to level the unit, not raise the entire trailer up via the frame.