Hitch cargo carrier 5.0TA

[Lee.Artman]

My trailer is due for delivery in six weeks. There is a standard 2" hitch receiver with 150# rating. I am thinking about using a hitch mounted cargo carrier for my Honda generator (45#). The carriers I have found weigh between 30 and 50#. I would keep total weight below 125#.

Does anyone have experience with what this weight on the stern does to the tongue/king pin weight? Does it need to be offset to keep balance stable? Thanks

[Bobbie54]

I couldn't comment specifically on a fifth wheel but you have to offset the weight for a single axle trailer, for sure. I put one on my 15A because, in part, I wanted to offset the weight, and also to move some things out of the cargo area of the car to allow for increased tongue weight. But in a double axle fifth wheel I can't imagine it will have a very large effect, especially since you are limited in weight on the carrier. I did put another hole in the bar of my carrier in order to get it as close to the back bumper as I could, so the spare now sits right over the carrier.

I used this one Took a bit of assembly but it is very sturdy once put together, and fairly light (the bar that goes into your receiver is the heaviest part.)

[Lee.Artman]

thanks, I had the same idea about a single axle, it was the effect of the double axle that suggest to me minimal effect in that relatively low weight.

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by Lee.Artman

My trailer is due for delivery in six weeks. There is a standard 2" hitch receiver with 150# rating. I am thinking about using a hitch mounted cargo carrier for my Honda generator (45#). The carriers I have found weigh between 30 and 50#. I would keep total weight below 125#.

Does anyone have experience with what this weight on the stern does to the tongue/king pin weight? Does it need to be offset to keep balance stable? Thanks

Hi: Lee.Artman... It would depend if you plan to take a full tank of fresh water from home. All that weight is aft of the axles too. Our 5.0TA is so well balanced you can feel the difference!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[Bill_75]

Not sure if you're aware, but ETI does offer a "not on the build sheet" option that you might be interested in, more details here :

http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...tank-6863.html

We got it for our 21......the 3 bike rack option, that is.

[titanizer]

I chose this cargo carrier for size 46'x19', capacity 150lbs same as hitch on rear, and price-20% off coupon. Easy to assemble without instructions needed and it allows for easy removal of spare when needed. I plan to use it to carry extra cooler, blue tote, ( but not when cooler is back there ), tool box and etc. I will use rachet straps to hold items down.




I plan to test it out next wk. on our 1st outing of the season.

[C&G in FL]

I had a "modified" stinger fabricated. Instead of a ball mount, it has a flat piece of 3/16 inch steel welded to it, upon which I attached a Honda 2000 lock down kit sold by Little House Customs. It can be secured to the receiver using a standard "dog bone" receiver lock. The generator locks to the base with a puck lock. Because I have a 5.0TA, I can use either the tow vehicle's receiver (clearance with 6-inches to spare) or the Escape's receiver. When I bring the generator, which isn't often, I typically use the truck's receiver because it puts the generator some distance away from the trailer, yet it remains securely attached so that it won't sprout legs.

[Zardoz]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

I had a "modified" stinger fabricated. Instead of a ball mount, it has a flat piece of 3/16 inch steel welded to it, upon which I attached a Honda 2000 lock down kit sold by Little House Customs. It can be secured to the receiver using a standard "dog bone" receiver lock. The generator locks to the base with a puck lock. Because I have a 5.0TA, I can use either the tow vehicle's receiver (clearance with 6-inches to spare) or the Escape's receiver. When I bring the generator, which isn't often, I typically use the truck's receiver because it puts the generator some distance away from the trailer, yet it remains securely attached so that it won't sprout legs.

Say Carl, you wouldn't happen to a photo or two of your setup to share would you? I've got the same generator and lockdown assembly and I'm looking for ways to put it all together. Thanks!

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Zardoz

Say Carl, you wouldn't happen to a photo or two of your setup to share would you? I've got the same generator and lockdown assembly and I'm looking for ways to put it all together. Thanks!

I will take a photo in the morning when it is light outside and post it tomorrow.

[Zardoz]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

I will take a photo in the morning when it is light outside and post it tomorrow.

Thanks very much, Carl! I plan on doing some serious boondocking after we move to AZ and air conditioning during the summer months is a must.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Zardoz

Thanks very much, Carl! I plan on doing some serious boondocking after we move to AZ and air conditioning during the summer months is a must.

As promised:

Image 1 is the "modified" stinger from the top, showing the LowPro lockdown bracket from Little House Customs. I had the plate cut to the same dimensions as the lock down bracket.

Image 2 is the "modified" stinger from the bottom, showing the nylock nuts which hold the bracket onto the plate. I used stainless steel hardware, but had to shorten the bolts (with a Dremel tool and cutoff wheel).

Image 3 shows the assembly mounted to the truck's receiver. If someone were to "copy" this design, keep in mind that the sides of the EU2000i bow out a little bit beyond the edge of the lockdown bracket and the plate (since it is the same size). I wanted to keep the generator as close as possible so I carefully estimated the distance between the hole in the 2-inch square stock that locks it to the receiver and where the plate could be welded to the square stock so that the generator's "overhang" would not contact the tailgate or the hatch on my wife's CR-V. Mine is 3-3/4 inches, perhaps a good starting point. The lock down bracket and its mating bracket on the generator is oriented so that the starting cord faces out and the generator can be started when it is mounted.

Image 4 is a Rubbermaid Action Packer. I show it as an alternative. I have an acquaintance who carries his EU2000i in one and it fits perfectly. He carries it in the back seat of his truck and says the lid eliminates any residual gasoline odors.

I would also add that in my earlier post I said the assembly was fabricated from steel. As usual, I wasn't thinking. It is fabricated (by a local metal shop) from thick aluminum to reduce weight.

[Iowa Dave]

I have a Hitch hauler platform that I bought when I had a Dakota. It worked ok with a large heavy plywood box I built to help move kids back and forth to college. The only thing I did not like was the slop in the stinger that went into my receiver tube. I did not use a tightener or weld Tightening tracks on the stinger like AZJack did on my WDH stinger (works).
I thought that if I ever used it on the Escape I'd have my brother weld two more stingers and two more recievers onto the rig. Would not have to be two inch to keep weight down. Would give three point attachment. I saw a post where somebody had done that a while back but can't remember who. I could see a use for ia rear platform especially to carry large bulky light items like water jugs. Blue tote, extra cooler( empty) etc. that don't have much weight. Jon Vermilye told me he liked the storage box he had on the back of his 17 when I talked to him at Niagara Falls last September.
Dave

[Lee.Artman]

thanks

[Zardoz]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

As promised:

Image 1 is the "modified" stinger from the top, showing the LowPro lockdown bracket from Little House Customs. I had the plate cut to the same dimensions as the lock down bracket.

Image 2 is the "modified" stinger from the bottom, showing the nylock nuts which hold the bracket onto the plate. I used stainless steel hardware, but had to shorten the bolts (with a Dremel tool and cutoff wheel).

Image 3 shows the assembly mounted to the truck's receiver. If someone were to "copy" this design, keep in mind that the sides of the EU2000i bow out a little bit beyond the edge of the lockdown bracket and the plate (since it is the same size). I wanted to keep the generator as close as possible so I carefully estimated the distance between the hole in the 2-inch square stock that locks it to the receiver and where the plate could be welded to the square stock so that the generator's "overhang" would not contact the tailgate or the hatch on my wife's CR-V. Mine is 3-3/4 inches, perhaps a good starting point. The lock down bracket and its mating bracket on the generator is oriented so that the starting cord faces out and the generator can be started when it is mounted.

Image 4 is a Rubbermaid Action Packer. I show it as an alternative. I have an acquaintance who carries his EU2000i in one and it fits perfectly. He carries it in the back seat of his truck and says the lid eliminates any residual gasoline odors.

I would also add that in my earlier post I said the assembly was fabricated from steel. As usual, I wasn't thinking. It is fabricated (by a local metal shop) from thick aluminum to reduce weight.

THANKS VERY MUCH, Carl.That's exactly what I needed to see to get me going on this project. How'd your welder join the aluminum plate and steel tubing? (I know nothing about welding ... ). I really appreciate your thoughtful description too; very helpful.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Zardoz

THANKS VERY MUCH, Carl.That's exactly what I needed to see to get me going on this project. How'd your welder join the aluminum plate and steel tubing? (I know nothing about welding ... ). I really appreciate your thoughtful description too; very helpful.

Rich, the tubing is thick walled aluminum, so it is aluminum welded to aluminum. I cut a piece of oak to the internal dimensions of the tubing and tapped it into the tubing to serve as reinforcement, although the welder told me it wouldn't be necessary.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

The only thing I did not like was the slop in the stinger that went into my receiver tube. I did not use a tightener or weld Tightening tracks on the stinger like AZJack did on my WDH stinger (works).
I thought that if I ever used it on the Escape I'd have my brother weld two more stingers and two more recievers onto the rig. Would not have to be two inch to keep weight down. Would give three point attachment. I saw a post where somebody had done that a while back but can't remember who.

Dave: Is it this concept that was referenced to in post #5?
www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8/box-for-honda-generator-grill-lawn-chairs-and-fuel-tank-6863.html

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Dave: Is it this concept that was referenced to in post #5?
www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8/box-for-honda-generator-grill-lawn-chairs-and-fuel-tank-6863.html

Yes I believe that's the concept. I lived with some mechanical engineering students at Iowa State. One guy could figure out what your new weight capacity would be for sure. He'd knock those problems out that they got in class that looked impossible to me and very hard for the top students. We became good friends and years later he settled in my home town. He did some structural engineering calculations for our department that won us a settlement on a mis-engineered pavilion. I knew where to go when they said we need a damn smart engineer. Small world dept.
Dave