Houghton A3400 install

[Rockhead]

We installed the 9500 u it on our 21 here in Texas and it has been working great and very quite. It’s been 98 to 101 here and I tested it again and it keeps the traile at 74 to 76 degrees

[Tford]

Not trying to hijack the thread, just adding a picture of my wires that came down from the Dometic A/C, with the AWG power and 2 Dometic control box wires (white and green in this instance, these are blue in the OP’s post and blue in the Dometic control box schematic) and with those same wires removed from picture and showing the labeled DC wires.

[Jill]

Originally Posted by dcgrout

I just installed the Houghton 9500 in my 2022 21C. I went with it due to the comments about being lower profile and less noise. I've had it running all day in the Seattle area, got up to about 82 degrees today with full sun (go figure, huh?). The inside is for sure cooler, but not as much as I would have hoped. During the hot point of the day, mid afternoon, the coolest it got inside was about 76, so about 5-7 degrees cooler than the outside. Is that what others are experiencing? It seems it should have a more profound impact on interior temps than just 5-7 degrees.

It should perform much better than that. Is it cycling every few minutes? If so you need to do the mod to detach the temperature sensor and move it closer to the air input. There's a separate thread on that. Here's a link to it: https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...mod-21165.html

[yeungfeng]

I've read this thread several times now. It inspired me to take on the project of installing a A3400 as there is no AC currently. I pick it up tomorrow. She who must be obeyed did not want me taking on this project, thus I will take it to a local shop for installation. Given that the temperatures are going to be hovering around 100, I think having the shop install it will be just fine. But, I want to make sure I have the right breaker, I know a bit about household electrical but not so much about RV I wanted to ask if this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-BR...A1CS/311720450 is the right breaker to install.

[gklott]

Originally Posted by yeungfeng

But, I want to make sure I have the right breaker, I know a bit about household electrical but not so much about RV I wanted to ask if this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eaton-BR...A1CS/311720450 is the right breaker to install.

This is the Eaton BR AFCI/GFCI breaker that we use for our AC3400.

73/gus

[yeungfeng]

Thanks for the quick response and for starting this thread.

[yeungfeng]

My reason for wanting to do the install was to save the $600 that it cost to install the AC3400 and the satisfaction of doing it myself. Not having to do it in the 100-107° we had all last week was still OK. That said I picked up the trailer today with the AC3400 installed. I had taken all the items that I thought they would need to install it. Seems Escape had already placed a breaker for the AC. Now the bad part, or so it seems. I had taken some Dicor in for them to use instead of the silicon that Houghton has recommended in the installation manual. Did they use it, NO. They used silicone. So I'm not sure why silicone isn't used, but I have seen postings that say it's taboo. My question now is why is silicone not used and do I need to remove the silicon they used and replace it with the Dicor?

[Rockhead]

Silicone is taboo lol. Personally I’d remove it n use the dicor. The silicone should come off very easily as it was just applied. R

[AuthorSP]

Is it true that once you use silicon, nothing else will adhere properly?

[gklott]

Originally Posted by Rockhead

Silicone is taboo lol. Personally I’d remove it n use the dicor. The silicone should come off very easily as it was just applied. R

Per the Houghton manual, we used 3M Marine Silicone Sealant, 08027. ETI used silicone sealant under the original Dometic AC. Been two years now without any issues.

73/gus

[Tford]

When I pulled the factory Dometic off the roof it took a LOT of elbow grease, plastic putty knife and time to get the adhered silicone sealant off the fiberglass. Since it’s under a big foam pad and not exposed to the weather, it’s probably more a sealant that a weatherproofing. I always put Dicor on exposed screws, like on the Maxxfan I replaced the A/C unit with, but those are exposed along with the bead I put along the fan shroud seam. I’m not sure I’d sweat the silicone where it is….

[gklott]

Originally Posted by Tford

When I pulled the factory Dometic off the roof it took a LOT of elbow grease, plastic putty knife and time to get the adhered silicone sealant off the fiberglass. Since it’s under a big foam pad and not exposed to the weather, it’s probably more a sealant that a weatherproofing.

Agree on the time required to properly prepare the roof for any new item, regardless of sealant. It took us an hour to clean where the Dometic had been.

Originally Posted by Tford

I always put Dicor on exposed screws, like on the Maxxfan I replaced the A/C unit with, but those are exposed along with the bead I put along the fan shroud seam.

We have used Sikaflex 715 general purpose rooftop weather resistant sealants. Know many use the Dicor LAP sealant. Understand Dicor now has an “Ultra” sealant for roof use.

Originally Posted by Tford

I’m not sure I’d sweat the silicone where it is….

Agree.

73/gus

[brroberts]

I too would leave the silicon until there was an issue and then do the clean up and replacement. It could be a loooong time before you have to deal with it.

[Chasing Trials]

Originally Posted by AuthorSP

Is it true that once you use silicon, nothing else will adhere properly?

It is just that you can almost never get cured true Silicone off.


I'm not sure what ETI is using now, but the "temp" vent came off easily for me to put a Houghton 9.5 on(they were told I was doing that, but it looked the same as some other things caulked up there). Was not cured underneath the vent(maybe 2 weeks old), and the whole outside edge peeled right off in one piece?

[yeungfeng]

Since I'm basically over worked and underpaid, I'll leave well enough alone. Thanks for all the perspectives.

The Houghton A3400 is a fine unit and lives up to all the positive statements in the forum's threads.

[MVA]

Has anyone who has changed out to the Houghton measured the decibels at a particular point in the trailer, such as on the table, or a measured distance from the A/C unit? Interested in quantifying "quieter".

Thanks

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by MVA

Has anyone who has changed out to the Houghton measured the decibels at a particular point in the trailer, such as on the table, or a measured distance from the A/C unit? Interested in quantifying "quieter".

Thanks

This is what Advanced RV published when they tested the Houghton against the Dometic and Coleman Mach 10 NDQ.

[Rockhead]

While I haven’t measured the decibels, before I replaced the dometic my wife n I had to speak very loud when sitting at opposite ends of our 21 and it would wake us up sometimes when coming on at night. With the houghton 9500, we now can talk with normal speaking voices and never has woke us up at night. Money well spent in our opinion.

[sofmerc]

Originally Posted by Rockhead

While I haven’t measured the decibels, before I replaced the dometic my wife n I had to speak very loud when sitting at opposite ends of our 21 and it would wake us up sometimes when coming on at night. With the houghton 9500, we now can talk with normal speaking voices and never has woke us up at night. Money well spent in our opinion.

GKLOTT did measurements with before and after results... Mirrors what Rubicon posted

[MVA]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

This is what Advanced RV published when they tested the Houghton against the Dometic and Coleman Mach 10 NDQ.

So the "Advanced RV Quiet AC" is the Houghton? That is impressive.