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Old 01-25-2017, 06:08 PM   #21
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If you thought lifting that top trap door was tough with the mattress on it, then oh, yes it will, times 675 per cent.
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Old 01-25-2017, 07:22 PM   #22
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If you thought lifting that top trap door was tough with the mattress on it, then oh, yes it will, times 675 per cent.
Myron, I couldn't agree more!!
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Old 01-26-2017, 05:37 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Ikea still sells a more plain slat system (LURÖY),

The current system which Ron installed looks like LÖNSET, for anyone wanting more information on the product.
I have ordered mine. Thanks for the great mod idea!

Note: for US customers you need to use this link for the Ikea US web site.

LÖNSET Slatted bed base - Queen, - IKEA
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Old 01-26-2017, 05:47 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by arniesea View Post
I have ordered mine. Thanks for the great mod idea!

Note: for US customers you need to use this link for the Ikea US web site.

LÖNSET Slatted bed base - Queen, - IKEA
'Sweet Dreams'.........
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Old 02-19-2017, 05:02 PM   #25
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Ikea mod copied

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post

a. install the Ikea slatted bed base


All mods involve the rear bed area and the decision was made to remove the bed to make access easier.

I did remove the structure and it did make access much easier. It struck me how easy it would be to convert to a rear dinette if one were so inclined.

A couple of things I didn't like caught my eye; one, the 3 fore and aft bed support stringers stop short of the rear ledger. Lots of screws are used to secure them rather than notching the ledger and having them mechanically supported. Debated changing this but left it as is.


Installation was pretty straight forward. The rear two corners were notched to accommodate the curved corners and about 1/4" was removed from each end of the slats.

Ron

Hi Ron, I liked your Ikea mod so much I copied it. I did go ahead and anchor the floating supports to the back frame as I noticed that there was a dip along the back wall. I simply sistered some 1x2 along the existing framing then tied it to the back with an angle brace. I did not bother adding insulation as your other mod of 2" pink foam underneath is also on my list!!

My '19 dimensions must be slightly different than yours. I had to notch the two rear corners more deeply than what your pictures show. I used a spare 2x6 cut on a 45 degree angle to tie the ends together. I also needed to shorten the slates by a total of 3/4 inch instead of 1/2 inch as I gather you did.

"about 1/4" was removed from each end of the slats."

Thanks for pioneering this idea! The bed is clearly more comfortable.

Anyway here are some picts of my mod.
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Old 02-19-2017, 05:09 PM   #26
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Ikea Mod Copied

Final pictures with the mattress back in place. Note I did not have a good table saw so I did not shave 7/8 inch off the Ikea rails. So it raised the bed 3'. I'm expecting to replace the mattress in the future and can look for a thinner mattress. We'll see if there are any complaints from the SO.
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Old 08-26-2018, 10:24 PM   #27
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I just did the same for our 2017 19' bed.. the two slats cut on both corners are a little deeper and I ended up cutting 1" on each end for the remaining slats on one... the other was unmodified.. could probably get away with less but the bed area doesnt appear to be straight on all sides.. (measured 60" on some part but not all)
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Old 08-26-2018, 11:44 PM   #28
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Nice! This is still my favorite mod to our Escape. Not only is the bed more comfortable, but I lived in the trailer last Nov. & Dec. while working on my sister’s new house. No condensation issues at all.
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Old 08-27-2018, 08:28 AM   #29
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Nice! This is still my favorite mod to our Escape. Not only is the bed more comfortable, but I lived in the trailer last Nov. & Dec. while working on my sister’s new house. No condensation issues at all.
I agree, Arnie! This would be a perfect addition to a 5.0 TA where no modification to the slatted bed would be necessary. It raises the mattress 2-3 inches off the plywood, providing airflow and comfort!
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Old 08-27-2018, 01:09 PM   #30
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This would be a perfect addition to a 5.0 TA where no modification to the slatted bed would be necessary. It raises the mattress 2-3 inches off the plywood, providing airflow and comfort!
I've been pondering this for my 5,0 TA as I am using a 3" Tempurpedic mattress topper on some 3/4" EVA foam pads instead of the ETI supplied mattress. My wife is very comfortable but it is still a scoche too hard for me so I have a thermarest camping pad under me also. One concern I have is is the bottom edge when I am crawling into the bed and my knees. Seems like there would be a 3.5 inch hard area there and I would want it padded some. Currently I use a 1/2" OD PVC pipe stuck thru a pool noodle and braced against the bottom of the mattress pad and walls. I suppose it would work with the slats also. Is there anyone using one on a 5.0TA?
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Old 08-28-2018, 11:17 AM   #31
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Thanks to Ron and Arnie for this great idea and thorough documentation of installation in a 19. Realizing it would affect access via the top access door to the underbed storage in our 2G 21, we decided to install it anyway for the aeration and comfort benefits. (We primarily access the underbed storage via the optional extra cabinet door and driver's side exterior hatch.) We've trialed it for a few nights and agree with the increased comfort benefit. As viewed facing the front of the trailer, we modified the upper left and lower right corners to accommodate the 45 degree geometries, and trimmed frame width (and slats) so that each half is of equal size. As I believe Ron did, we ripped the frame members to reduce the overall height (although, this would not be necessary if one did not have access to a table saw).

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Old 08-28-2018, 06:10 PM   #32
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We haven't experienced mold or mildew issues yet, but I've often wondered if using the plastic lattice available at Home Depot would be a cheap alternative to some of the other recommended fixes to get air between the mattress and the plywood.
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Old 08-28-2018, 06:41 PM   #33
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That might work if the slats are at 90" on top of each other. That would allow for an air flow from side to side and end to end. The plastic type of lattice that doesn't have that two dimensional effect wouldn't likely be very effective.

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Old 08-30-2018, 10:34 AM   #34
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I have not seen many people that have done this kind of install cut large holes in the plywood base/bed for better circulation. Something that I would consider doing as well as attaching some bug screen over the holes to keep the bugs inside the storage below should the hatch be left open. I think with cutting the large holes you could get away with the cheaper slats that sit directly on the plywood and that might be easier to work into the corners with simple cuts. Also with the cheaper slats you may be able to interlace them side by side and not have to even cut them to width.
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Old 08-30-2018, 11:12 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by SFDavis50 View Post
I've been pondering this for my 5,0 TA as I am using a 3" Tempurpedic mattress topper on some 3/4" EVA foam pads instead of the ETI supplied mattress. My wife is very comfortable but it is still a scoche too hard for me so I have a thermarest camping pad under me also. One concern I have is is the bottom edge when I am crawling into the bed and my knees. Seems like there would be a 3.5 inch hard area there and I would want it padded some. Currently I use a 1/2" OD PVC pipe stuck thru a pool noodle and braced against the bottom of the mattress pad and walls. I suppose it would work with the slats also. Is there anyone using one on a 5.0TA?

If you are using this on a 5.0 and having to watch your pin weight then remember this will add 44Lbs virtually right over it. Just a point to ponder.
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Old 08-30-2018, 11:23 AM   #36
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cut large holes in the plywood base/bed for better circulation. S
Hate to be disagreeable but I don't think that is a very good idea. The area under the bed in a 19, in cold temperatures, is a very cold place. It's an unheated space with things with 0 R value, like the hatch cover. Measure the temperatures in there when it's below freezing outside. Unless specific insulating steps are done and warm air is circulated into the space it's going to remain a cold space.

That's why I insulated the under side of the bed deck and regard the space the same as an unheated crawlspace.

My view is that holes in the plywood would make it easier for cold air from the underbed area to contact the warmer mattress and condensation would occur. But, I could be wrong.

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Old 08-30-2018, 01:00 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
That might work if the slats are at 90" on top of each other. That would allow for an air flow from side to side and end to end. The plastic type of lattice that doesn't have that two dimensional effect wouldn't likely be very effective.

Ron
Good point! Maybe the old fashion wood slatted lattice would work?
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Old 08-30-2018, 01:35 PM   #38
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If you are using this on a 5.0 and having to watch your pin weight then remember this will add 44Lbs virtually right over it. Just a point to ponder.
Barry
Yes, I earlier misread the IKEA site and thought it was 22Lbs. 44 is too much for me since it provides no insulating value and getting in and out of the bed in a 5.0 TA is much different than other trailer beds. I occasionally bang my knees on the hard edge of the bed platform. Now I'm looking into a 1" or 2" latex foam pad for either under or on the mattress topper. Never had an issue with condensation so far and I often let moisture stay in the trailer after a shower. Here and at higher altitude the air is too dry.
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Old 08-30-2018, 05:57 PM   #39
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Hate to be disagreeable but I don't think that is a very good idea. The area under the bed in a 19, in cold temperatures, is a very cold place. It's an unheated space with things with 0 R value, like the hatch cover. Measure the temperatures in there when it's below freezing outside. Unless specific insulating steps are done and warm air is circulated into the space it's going to remain a cold space.

That's why I insulated the under side of the bed deck and regard the space the same as an unheated crawlspace.

My view is that holes in the plywood would make it easier for cold air from the underbed area to contact the warmer mattress and condensation would occur. But, I could be wrong.

Ron
Good point Ron...a big temp difference is where problems can occur.
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Old 07-12-2020, 12:34 PM   #40
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Ron, you mentioned you cut the frame down to a lower height. Can the slats be removed from the framework completely? If you don't cut down the height, is the mattress too high? We don't have a table saw which is why I'm asking. Thanks!
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