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Old 07-18-2022, 03:35 PM   #1
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Inside Water Heater Switch

Having to go outside to turn on the water heater seemed pretty primitive to me.

My solution, which works quite easily on a 21C, was to install a switch inline with the water heater power supply.

On the 21C there is an easily removable panel. Once removed it fits back in easily with a snug fit and makes a pretty good place for misc. items that you might want to keep out of sight.

I cut the lomex to the water heater and ran an extension a short distance to the side of the furnace/drawer stack. I installed a lighted switch there.

Works for me.

The thermostat is for a built-in heater. Different circuit.

Ron
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Old 07-18-2022, 07:37 PM   #2
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Thanks, Ron.

When I replaced my switch I wasn’t thinking ahead enough to test the voltage of the wires leading to the switch. The switch wires are smaller gauge than the wires connecting to the 110v heating element and they are connected using simple spade connectors.. Is it possible that the switch is 12v leading to a relay?

Anyway, if the switch is 12v then I would tap into those wires for a new inside switch. If the switch wires are 120 v then your method makes sense.

Request comments from electricians on the forum. Thanks.
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Old 07-18-2022, 09:19 PM   #3
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I was trying to see the point, since the electric side of the water heater requires 110v, and you could leave it on for when you connect to shore power.

But I guess if you've an inverter, you might not want it running and draining your batteries, so it might be handy to have an inside switch. Though it's not awfully difficult to turn it off when you're disconnecting from shore power—you're out there anyway.

Might be worth asking Escape for an upgrade to the inside panel where the gas-powered water-heater switch is: add a second switch position, one for gas, one for electric.

Edit: Apparently Suburban has a two-switch control, discussed here:
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post425491
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Old 07-18-2022, 10:28 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrLynn View Post
I was trying to see the point, since the electric side of the water heater requires 110v, and you could leave it on for when you connect to shore power.

But I guess if you've an inverter, you might not want it running and draining your batteries, so it might be handy to have an inside switch. Though it's not awfully difficult to turn it off when you're disconnecting from shore power—you're out there anyway.

Might be worth asking Escape for an upgrade to the inside panel where the gas-powered water-heater switch is: add a second switch position, one for gas, one for electric.

Edit: Apparently Suburban has a two-switch control, discussed here:
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post425491
That upgrade would require a different water heater, a SW6DEL (5140A/E). Its the exact same heater, but in the place of the manual rocker switch it has a small 12v DC controlled relay that switches the 120 AC on and off. They have variations of this with a cord and plug. This would wire it with a ground, a 12v power to engerize the relay and turn on the electric element, and 12v DC power to power up the electronic circuit for the gas side of it, plus a wire coming back to the switch panel to turn the fault light on. I do not know the wire colors as Suburban does not publish their manuals online like everyone else, but it is a simple 4 wire control plus the romex, just the same way the Atwood and Dometic water heaters are done.

Edit: I found a 2009 Suburban manual with the wiring diagram for the DEL models. GREEN is ground to frame and one side of the fault light panel, ORANGE is 12v DC positive from the control panel to the water heaters 120v AC relay inside the water heater, BLUE is 12v DC positive FROM the water heater to the fault light, and RED is 12v DC positive from the gas control switch to the water heater.

The purpose of the inside power switch for the electric portion of the water heater is to allow you to not use the water heater unless you need it. I turn mine on in the evening immediately jump in the shower, and when I get out, I turn it off. I have hot water until late the next morning without running the heater again. It saves you from running outside to turn on the water heater, then back in, then back out, etc.

My water heater controls are mounted in the stove hood (this is an Atwood) and BF decided to place the switch for the electric in a rather goofy place about 6 ft from the stove hood. I added wiring and a switch in the stove hood to get both switches in one place. Thread in the Fiberglass forum about my switch and wiring mod

Charles
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