Installed 2/0 battery cables

[Eggscape]

You can never go wrong with decent wire and of course a few antenna masts.

[viator36]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

I'm betting he made it.

I was guessing that way too but want to hear confirmation and any tips from Tom. Thanks!

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by viator36

I was guessing that way too but want to hear confirmation and any tips from Tom. Thanks!

Sorry, I should have posted as a quote to you directly as you are the one that asked the question.

Yes, I fabricated the bar - here is the previous post that has more detail.
https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...tml#post358083

[75thRanger]

Originally Posted by viator36

I saw that product on aliexpress before my post but don't want to spend $78 for it. I have the 200A fuse ETI installed directly between the battery cable and the post without the holder but am trying to make it more stable the way Tom did it.

I have the same setup you do and I also do not want to pay that sort of price for the small bus.

I cut a small piece of 2/0 cable and used a hydraulic crimper for the lugs on each end. A very short piece. The Lugs are only about 1/8 in apart at the base. Very little flex in it. Anyone foresee a problem with this way to do it? I used the 2/0 because I may change the other cables too at some point.

Now I just need to find a holder for the flat MEGA fuse.

I would not have thought of this mod on my own but reading tdf tx post on it makes sense. Anything tdf tx does electrically is a worthwhile project!

[viator36]

Originally Posted by 75thRanger

Anything tdf tx does electrically is a worthwhile project!

Strongly second that!

[75thRanger]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

The 2 gauge battery cables and 200 amp fuse to my inverter was causing the inverter to trip on low voltage when using my 950 watt microwave on full power. After doing some voltage drop measurements, I found that most of the voltage drop was across the 200 amp fuse as vibration had loosened the rivets on the fuse.

By the way, how the 200 amp fuse was installed is not how it was supposed to be done. That fuse requires a fuse holder to support it and prevent the failure I experienced.

I decided to upgrade the whole system such that I never have to do this upgrade again (see sig). That meant 2/0 battery cables, hydraulic crimped terminals with heat shrink, MEGA fuse holder and fuse, and copper bus bar connection between the positive battery terminal and the fuse. The only special part needed was a Panduit LCA2/0-56-X lug to terminate the 2/0 to the inverter as it had to be a narrow tongue lug to fit.

Here are the sources for the material used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Very happy with the results! Pics show the original Escape install and then my mod.

I'm doing the same procedure you did on your cables and fuse. I'm using a different fuse holder but otherwise much the same setup.

Going to have to take the inverter off to get access to the posts. Way too tight for me to get my hand in there.

Do you do a single press in the center of the connector with your 2/0 crimper dies? I've done both one and two before and have never had a problem with either electrically. Two looks kind of clunky but I'll cover with shrink wrap anyway..

[mfschu]

Does anyone have a stock Escape wiring diagram for a 21NE? I asked Escape for it but they told me they didn't have it. I'd like to understand what comes standard when I purchase a new trailer. Thanks!

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by 75thRanger

I'm doing the same procedure you did on your cables and fuse. I'm using a different fuse holder but otherwise much the same setup.

Going to have to take the inverter off to get access to the posts. Way too tight for me to get my hand in there.

Do you do a single press in the center of the connector with your 2/0 crimper dies? I've done both one and two before and have never had a problem with either electrically. Two looks kind of clunky but I'll cover with shrink wrap anyway..

I double pressed the 2/0 cables to insure a gas tight connection and to make sure I had the contact surface I wanted for higher current. All the cable lugs were then adhesive heat shrinked for water tightness and rigidity.

The crimper I use is a 10 ton hydraulic crimper I bought on Amazon. It works well and has enough range to be able crimp any of the larger cables I would need.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had to take the inverter off as well. It makes it easier to get the lugs attached correctly and isn't a big deal to get loose as it's only four screws on mine. Be sure to watch for that ground wire as it was a bugger to get to on mine.

I attached the cables to the inverter and then ran the cables up to the + battery post / shunt to measure and cut for the right length. A lot easier that way.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by mfschu

Does anyone have a stock Escape wiring diagram for a 21NE? I asked Escape for it but they told me they didn't have it. I'd like to understand what comes standard when I purchase a new trailer. Thanks!

These do not exist. Unfortunately Escape hasn't produced them for their trailers like Oliver and others have. The best "generic" diagram is one that tdf-texas has posted in other threads. Maybe he can weigh in and provide a link to it. He has done many modifications so I think he has a "stock" diagram and a new one reflecting the changes he has made. Actual post #6 of this thread has his new diagram.

[75thRanger]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

I double pressed the 2/0 cables to insure a gas tight connection and to make sure I had the contact surface I wanted for higher current. All the cable lugs were then adhesive heat shrinked for water tightness and rigidity.

The crimper I use is a 10 ton hydraulic crimper I bought on Amazon. It works well and has enough range to be able crimp any of the larger cables I would need.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had to take the inverter off as well. It makes it easier to get the lugs attached correctly and isn't a big deal to get loose as it's only four screws on mine. Be sure to watch for that ground wire as it was a bugger to get to on mine.

I attached the cables to the inverter and then ran the cables up to the + battery post / shunt to measure and cut for the right length. A lot easier that way.

About what I had planned on. I've measured the cable runs and will do the cables first, leaving a bit of wiggle room

I put my Victron shunt on the end of the battery box. Used short screws and have about 3/4" clearance from screw tip to the battery. The cable runs dead straight from the inverter to the shunt post. Seems to be doing fine there. No room where yours is. My solar panel breaker/switch is there.

Our crimper has been around awhile. No markings left on it but it still works fine. I'm fairly sure it's a 10 ton.

Thanks for the tip on the gnd wire.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

These do not exist. Unfortunately Escape hasn't produced them for their trailers like Oliver and others have. The best "generic" diagram is one that tdf-texas has posted in other threads. Maybe he can weigh in and provide a link to it. He has done many modifications so I think he has a "stock" diagram and a new one reflecting the changes he has made. Actual post #6 of this thread has his new diagram.

I don't have electrical diagrams for all the different ways Escape has wired their trailers. It seems that they wire each trailer as if they were starting over from scratch - I have a friend that had his trailer built a week after mine and his wiring is different than mine!

But if it helps, below is a generic diagram for a trailer built with solar, inverter, and 2 6 volt batteries. Also, after that is the diagram for my trailer which has been upgraded from stock. Having both diagrams helps to show what I changed.

[mfschu]

Thank You tdf-texas for the diagrams! I have a friend who is an Electrical Engineer. I want to get his advice on my build for solar & DC outlets. What I should order from Escape & or what I should install later. I've kind of already decided to forgo the inverter and learn to get by with the 12V when shore power is not available. Thanks again for the information!

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by 75thRanger

Check www.aliexpress.com/item/4000412185571.html

They don't give those things away!

Originally Posted by rubicon327

I'm betting he made it.

For the price shown in the link, I would make them myself. Most metal fabrication shops have or can readily get copper.

[75thRanger]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

For the price shown in the link, I would make them myself. Most metal fabrication shops have or can readily get copper.

I ended up ordering this. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WZYW746

[strawbarry]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

Nice install . I have plans to redo the battery and inverter wiring this winter if I can get my hands on a Bundy or Anderson crimpers . I’ve got some pieces of 2/0 or 3/0 welding cable if I can only remember where I put them .
When I checked my batteries last Fall I also found the battery
fuse connection and battery connections were loose about 3/4 of a turn .
Since we never use our inverter , we had not experienced any problems similar to yours .

An electrical supply house may loan a crimp tool with purchase of the connectors.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by 75thRanger

I ended up ordering this. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WZYW746

The connector I made is 3" long - with the bar you bought, you have enough for two connectors.

3/16" x 3/4" is 179k circular mils - 3/16" x 1" is 239k circular mils. 2/0 cable is 133k circular mils so both connectors exceed the current capacity of the 2/0 cable by large margins. Good choice!

[75thRanger]

When looking at my batteries, etc... to see how I wanted to do the above I checked the GoPower Charge Controller set screws that retain the cables (Panel and battery). They all needed a bit more than a complete turn to tighten them down. Those with the same equipment might want to check these screws

As tdf tx pointed out, A gas tight connection (oxygen and moisture is prevented from reaching the conductors and causing corrosion) is desired when joining conductors.

[75thRanger]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

The connector I made is 3" long - with the bar you bought, you have enough for two connectors.

3/16" x 3/4" is 179k circular mils - 3/16" x 1" is 239k circular mils. 2/0 cable is 133k circular mils so both connectors exceed the current capacity of the 2/0 cable by large margins. Good choice!

I knew all that!, Yeah right!

[Mike Lewis]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

C110 copper bar is commonly used for electrical busbar. 3/16"x 3/4" C110 is rated to carry higher current than the 2/0 cable.

How do you determine the maximum current that can be safely carried by a C110 copper bar of a particular dimension? I assume there is a formula.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by Mike Lewis

How do you determine the maximum current that can be safely carried by a C110 copper bar of a particular dimension? I assume there is a formula.

This gives the info for calculating the buss circular mils and resistance.
https://electricalacademia.com/instr...re-size-chart/

This give you the circular mils for different wire sizes.

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/a...ils-d_819.html

Once you have the circular mils, you can use the table in the link below to determine max current. Use the chassis wiring table as our trailer wiring is not enclosed and considered free air.

https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
Use this calculator to convert from circular mils to mm2.
https://www.convertunits.com/from/ci...+mil/to/mm%5E2

Basic rule of thumb - if the buss bar you are using has a greater circular mils than the wire that you are connecting it to, the buss bar will be able to handle the current that the wire can.