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Old 10-09-2020, 12:06 PM   #1
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Installed 2/0 battery cables

The 2 gauge battery cables and 200 amp fuse to my inverter was causing the inverter to trip on low voltage when using my 950 watt microwave on full power. After doing some voltage drop measurements, I found that most of the voltage drop was across the 200 amp fuse as vibration had loosened the rivets on the fuse.

By the way, how the 200 amp fuse was installed is not how it was supposed to be done. That fuse requires a fuse holder to support it and prevent the failure I experienced.

I decided to upgrade the whole system such that I never have to do this upgrade again (see sig). That meant 2/0 battery cables, hydraulic crimped terminals with heat shrink, MEGA fuse holder and fuse, and copper bus bar connection between the positive battery terminal and the fuse. The only special part needed was a Panduit LCA2/0-56-X lug to terminate the 2/0 to the inverter as it had to be a narrow tongue lug to fit.

Here are the sources for the material used.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Very happy with the results! Pics show the original Escape install and then my mod.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Battery cable old.jpg (208.7 KB, 157 views)
File Type: jpg Battery Cable 1.jpg (280.7 KB, 150 views)
File Type: jpg Battery cable 2.jpg (153.0 KB, 122 views)
File Type: jpg Battery cable 3.jpg (182.9 KB, 118 views)
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Old 10-09-2020, 12:28 PM   #2
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Very happy with the results! PIcs show the original Escape install and then my mod.
Very nice install. I really appreciate your knowledge of electrical systems and your sharing it on this forum.
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Old 10-09-2020, 12:30 PM   #3
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I like big wire and I cannot lie.
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Old 10-09-2020, 12:42 PM   #4
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I like big wire and I cannot lie.
And tall antenna masts.

Ron
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Old 10-09-2020, 01:55 PM   #5
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That looks a lot better on top of the batteries.

The original configuration had three cables on the positive post: a large-gauge cable connected through the 200 amp fuse (for the inverter, I assume), a smaller-gauge cable connected through a smaller inline fuse (to the power centre, I assume), and a third one with no fuse. The new configuration has the same fused connections, but no third cable. What was the third cable for?
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Old 10-09-2020, 02:13 PM   #6
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That looks a lot better on top of the batteries.

The original configuration had three cables on the positive post: a large-gauge cable connected through the 200 amp fuse (for the inverter, I assume), a smaller-gauge cable connected through a smaller inline fuse (to the power centre, I assume), and a third one with no fuse. The new configuration has the same fused connections, but no third cable. What was the third cable for?
The third cable was the solar controller connection. I moved it to the battery disconnect switch on the battery side. Cleaner and now fused through the 60 amp MAXI fuse.

The wire between the WFCO to the disconnect switch and then to the battery has been upgraded to 6 gauge wire. The original fuse holder was replaced with a 6 gauge 60 amp MAXI fuse which is shown in the later pics.
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Old 10-09-2020, 02:16 PM   #7
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Nice install . I have plans to redo the battery and inverter wiring this winter if I can get my hands on a Bundy or Anderson crimpers . I’ve got some pieces of 2/0 or 3/0 welding cable if I can only remember where I put them .
When I checked my batteries last Fall I also found the battery
fuse connection and battery connections were loose about 3/4 of a turn .
Since we never use our inverter , we had not experienced any problems similar to yours .
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Old 10-09-2020, 02:19 PM   #8
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There are fuse holders which are designed to mount directly to the battery terminal post, such as the MRBF (Marine Rated Battery Fuse) series (examples at Blue Seas: single, or double). They can be a bit tall, which has been an issue in some Escapes, but for installations with enough room they're a tidier configuration than a separately mounted (or floating) holder.
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Old 10-09-2020, 02:37 PM   #9
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There are fuse holders which are designed to mount directly to the battery terminal post, such as the MRBF (Marine Rated Battery Fuse) series (examples at Blue Seas: single, or double). They can be a bit tall, which has been an issue in some Escapes, but for installations with enough room they're a tidier configuration than a separately mounted (or floating) holder.
Here's why I went with the MEGA fuse holder. I looked at the MRBF but after measuring the height I had available, I found they wouldn't fit in the Escape battery box (fuse holder is 1 3/4" high). Also, the fuses for that holder aren't readily available in case the 200 amp fuse blows out in the middle of nowhere. The MEGA fuses are available at any auto parts.
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Old 10-09-2020, 02:50 PM   #10
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The third cable was the solar controller connection. I moved it to the battery disconnect switch on the battery side. Cleaner and now fused through the 60 amp MAXI fuse.
That makes sense. Thanks.
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Old 10-09-2020, 02:52 PM   #11
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I sure hope it is improved on the 2020 21C. ��
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Old 10-13-2020, 12:01 PM   #12
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The third cable was the solar controller connection. I moved it to the battery disconnect switch on the battery side. Cleaner and now fused through the 60 amp MAXI fuse.

The wire between the WFCO to the disconnect switch and then to the battery has been upgraded to 6 gauge wire. The original fuse holder was replaced with a 6 gauge 60 amp MAXI fuse which is shown in the later pics.
Tom: I want to thank you for your continued postings on your comprehensive electrical upgrades. Don't have solar or inverter (yet) but I'm going to be upgrading the undersized battery wiring to 6AWG with an inline 60A MAXI fuse and a heavy duty Powerwerx disconnect switch. Also adding a Victron BMV-712 battery monitor. This is very helpful.

https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-HHX-...2604604&sr=8-3

https://powerwerx.com/panelhdsw-heavy-duty-switch

https://powerwerx.com/welding-cable-epdm
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Old 10-13-2020, 04:17 PM   #13
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Tom: I want to thank you for your continued postings on your comprehensive electrical upgrades. Don't have solar or inverter (yet) but I'm going to be upgrading the undersized battery wiring to 6AWG with an inline 60A MAXI fuse and a heavy duty Powerwerx disconnect switch. Also adding a Victron BMV-712 battery monitor. This is very helpful.

https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-HHX-...2604604&sr=8-3

https://powerwerx.com/panelhdsw-heavy-duty-switch

https://powerwerx.com/welding-cable-epdm
Dave, you are more than welcome! I figure sharing info on the electrical stuff is little compensation for the knowledge I have learned from others here on the forum.

We do make a great community here, don't we?
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Old 10-15-2020, 01:56 PM   #14
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Hi Tom, in your first post upper right picture where did you get the copper connector bar between the fuse/fuse holder bolt and the battery post? TIA.
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Old 10-15-2020, 03:03 PM   #15
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Hi Tom, in your first post upper right picture where did you get the copper connector bar between the fuse/fuse holder bolt and the battery post? TIA.
Check www.aliexpress.com/item/4000412185571.html

They don't give those things away!
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Old 10-15-2020, 03:11 PM   #16
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I saw that product on aliexpress before my post but don't want to spend $78 for it. I have the 200A fuse ETI installed directly between the battery cable and the post without the holder but am trying to make it more stable the way Tom did it.
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Old 10-15-2020, 03:30 PM   #17
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I saw that product on aliexpress before my post but don't want to spend $78 for it. I have the 200A fuse ETI installed directly between the battery cable and the post without the holder but am trying to make it more stable the way Tom did it.
Do you plan to use the same fuse holder kit that he listed the source for, with 250a fuse?
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Old 10-15-2020, 03:31 PM   #18
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Hi Tom, in your first post upper right picture where did you get the copper connector bar between the fuse/fuse holder bolt and the battery post? TIA.
I'm betting he made it.
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Old 10-15-2020, 03:34 PM   #19
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I'm betting he made it.
You would win that bet!

5/16 drill bit and a 3" length of 3/16"x 3/4" C110 copper bar. I cut the 12" bar from Ebay into 4 pieces, rounded the ends, then drilled the 5/16" holes for the connections.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-16-x-3-4-...72.m2749.l2649

C110 copper bar is commonly used for electrical busbar. 3/16"x 3/4" C110 is rated to carry higher current than the 2/0 cable.
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Old 10-15-2020, 03:37 PM   #20
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An electrical supply store will have items like copper bus bars and the like. We buy terminal lugs at one and they have bus bars in various sizes.
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