Interior Layout

[tkconover]

Considering purchasing a used Escape 19’ and looking at the interior layout. I personally do not care for the typical dinette layout common in many travel trailers of this size, so am interested in utilizing captains chairs similar to a Casita Freedom 17 arrangement. With that in mind I am wondering how much issue it would be to reverse the location of fixed bed with the dinette at the other end of trailer to give more room to a very small living space with the captain chairs and go with a smaller bed that would still sleep two reasonably. Might anyone have any thoughts on implications of doing this?

[Donna D.]

ETI has built a reverse 19' trailer, smaller bed in the front, bigger dinette in the back. The issue you'll have is the rear cabinets must stay in place, it's a structural issue plus there's components under the cabinets that you need. IF you wanted to, you could mount the captains chairs on lazy susans, no poles though... remember the cabinetry. Finding a comfortable place to sit is a PITA for me too. Good luck!

[Jim Bennett]

Making the dinette into a narrower bed is no problem. Heck, just drop the table and you have one now. To do up a permanent bed would be very doable.

At the existing bed in the rear, most all of the drivers side is water heater, pump, etc. You could theoretically make a bench to cover that stuff along that side, then open up the rest providing cover for trailer exterior lights.

You would gain a bit of storage at the front, but lose a lot in the rear.

You would drastically reduce resale value, but in many cases that is not an issue.

There is a reason for the layout as it is, and given the size I quite like it. Having the door by the bed is not a good feature for me, though others are fine with it.

I very much prefer lounging outside, and though it happens, it is a rare occasion the weather is to bad to let that happen.

[cpaharley2008]

Just remember you have to have upper and lower cabinets for structural reasons. Thus the under bed area around the perimeter will have to be enclosed, not removed.

[gbaglo]

Sitting is the new smoking.

[tkconover]

Good points from all not being that familiar with the equipment enclosed in the storage under existing bed I can see it would present some issues. I may inquire at ETI as it was mentioned they have done this reversed layout prior. Not sure it would diminish resale that much especially if a buyer was interested in the extra evening living area and could tolerate the reduced sleeping area. Basically an outside person, evenings inside it would be nice to have a place to comfortably read, etc. without parking it on the bed. All points to ponder so thanks for all the input.

[Eggscape]

This is what the rear of a 19 looks like with the bed removed.

As mentioned you have the water heater and pump to the right but you also have the pipes to the kitchen sink mounted high.

Disregard the 3 white rails mounted to the floor...these are what my bins slide on

[Doug2000]

The fiberglass shell needs the wood structure for support, be careful removing any framing or your shell may start to sag like my old Trillium. The door never lined up, the front corner sagged nearly an inch.

[tkconover]

Ed thanks for the photo looks like the water heater could be repositioned. I see factory has used pec tube for the hot/cold water lines which is very easy to work with. My only concern would be the structural adequacy mention by Doug and others. I will check with ETI on ramifications of that. Good input.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by tkconover

Ed thanks for the photo looks like the water heater could be repositioned. I see factory has used pec tube for the hot/cold water lines which is very easy to work with. My only concern would be the structural adequacy mention by Doug and others. I will check with ETI on ramifications of that. Good input.

Remember there is a hole in the shell for the outside portion of the water heater...

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

Remember there is a hole in the shell for the outside portion of the water heater...

And not just that, but the shell mould has a flattened area there for the exterior grille to sit flush on.

The only option would be to eliminate the water heater.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Just remember you have to have upper and lower cabinets for structural reasons. Thus the under bed area around the perimeter will have to be enclosed, not removed.

Those cabinets are not structural. They just could not be On the passenger side it is the full height gable at the right galley, and the stripper pole on the left. On the passenger side it is the bath and full height cabinetry that provide the support. It is towards the center that potential for the roof to sag happens more, as the corner of the shell itself provides great stiffness to the shell.

This is why Reace first planned the 19 to have a fridge on one side and the bath on the other, both providing the shell support needed on either side. When I came up with the plan to keep all the tall stuff on one side, and 9 outta 10 first buyers liking that layout, he was forced to create some kind of roof support on the passenger side, thus that full height gable and ultimately the stripper pole.

[cpaharley2008]

I remember Reace, Escape's original owner/designer, would not build an Escape without the structural framing. Someone wanted captain chairs in the rear or possibly it was in the front. Either way he said the cabinets, both upper and lower, are necessary for the trailer to operate, and would not entertain building one without those needed components.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Those cabinets are not structural.

But when I asked Reace about NOT putting in the rear dinette cabinetry, he told me they were necessary. Otherwise the back end would get 'floppy.' His words, not mine.

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

But when I asked Reace about NOT putting in the rear dinette cabinetry, he told me they were necessary. Otherwise the back end would get 'floppy.' His words, not mine.

Exactly what he told me and that is why all of the Escapes from the factory have the supports. What you do afterwards is at your own risk.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Doug2000

The fiberglass shell needs the wood structure for support, be careful removing any framing or your shell may start to sag like my old Trillium. The door never lined up, the front corner sagged nearly an inch.

Trillium 1300 door belly band never did align with the trailer shell unfortunately. The one I rebuilt I was able to tweak it close, but still not there. Now, seeing the trailer had just sat with no maintenance nor clearing of snow in winter for a long time the galley side roof did sag somewhat. That interior fibreglass structure just did not support the roof real well as the piece next to the wall was just too close, though on the door side the fibreglass closet structure did a fairly good job supporting the roof. I placed support poles on either side of it and lifted the roof up to look good and drain well.

These photos were taken during the construction phase, and I don't have one of the very bottom mounted right on top of the frame.

[cpaharley2008]

Similar discussion over on FGRV found....https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ler-90928.html

[h2owmn]

Lord knows, a floppy back end is to be avoided at all costs.

[cpaharley2008]

or for that matter, a floppy front should also be avoided......

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by h2owmn

Lord knows, a floppy back end is to be avoided at all costs.

Hi: h2owmn... But how do you get a "Flop house" then? Alf
escape artyist N.S. of Lake Erie