Inverter install

[oldwave]

Finished the inverter install today as well as replaced the battery box with a custom frame to hold it down. It appears to work well.
Pictures to follow not enough bandwidth

[oldwave]

Pix1 in the passenger side
Shows the solar disconnect also

[Centex]

Looking good!

What is the black component mounted below the switch and shunt

[Kirt]

Originally Posted by Centex

Looking good!

What is the black component mounted below the switch and shunt

Kinda looks like the fuse holder for the positive wire running from the battery to the disconnect. . . I think

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by Kirt

Kinda looks like the fuse holder for the positive wire running from the battery to the disconnect. . . I think

It’s between the battery and the disconnect then the inverter, don’t see any issues with that as you want the fuse closer to the battery

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by Centex

Looking good!

What is the black component mounted below the switch and shunt

It’s the fuse , it’s got gaffers on it to hold the cover on it.

[Centex]

Originally Posted by oldwave

It’s the fuse , it’s got gaffers on it to hold the cover on it.

Gotchya, thanks!

May I ask the type (just curious)?

[oldwave]

Picture of the side of the new battery box and the over-engineered battery frame from my friends at the machine shop. Also the subpanel on the drivers side of the 21 c. To be completed is the inverter remote mount and the PD charge wizard remote.

Also on the agenda is the smartplug install to modify the attached 30 amp cable to a removable. I need to get back some under seat storage I lost with the inverter side.
I also upgraded my Hughes surge to a Huges EPO for better safety. I still went with external to have it portable if I decide to move to another trailer next year. I’ve been very happy with these. I know most escape owners like the factory Progressive Industries version, but I like the Bluetooth remote monitoring like my Victron Shunt.

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by Centex

Gotchya, thanks!

May I ask the type (just curious)?

Yes it’s a classT Go Power fuse and mount. 200 amp
The inverter is 1800 watts from Progressive Dynamics, it was 200 plus cheaper than the Go Power 1500 watt and includes the transfer switch. I ran two 10 gauge Romex cables for the in and out.

[Centex]

Originally Posted by oldwave

Yes it’s a classT Go Power fuse and mount. 200 amp
The inverter is 1800 watts from Progressive Dynamics, it was 200 plus cheaper than the Go Power 1500 watt and includes the transfer switch. I ran two 10 gauge Romex cables for the in and out.

Again, I gotchya, thanks. It all sounds and looks like a great setup, nice wiring

I erred in not including the Class T fuse among my pre-trailer delivery purchases; 250A is what I prefer for my application and that's among the few small but critical items I need which are now suffering supply chain delays, grrrr. I'll go with the still available 200A as an interim solution if that becomes the last 'missing link' in my project.

Congrats on your progress!

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by Centex

Again, I gotchya, thanks. It all sounds and looks like a great setup, nice wiring

I erred in not including the Class T fuse among my pre-trailer delivery purchases; 250A is what I prefer for my application and that's among the few small but critical items I need which are now suffering supply chain delays, grrrr. I'll go with the still available 200A as an interim solution if that becomes the last 'missing link' in my project.

Congrats on your progress!

How many watts is your inverter?

[Centex]

Originally Posted by oldwave

How many watts is your inverter?

2kW continuous / 4kW 5-sec. surge (xantrex Freedom XC 2000).

The xantrex recommendation is a 250A (maximum) Class T fuse "located as close as possible to the battery, in the positive cable" (with appropriate cable ampacity).

Note that our applications differ not only in inverter rating but also in battery type which bears on sizing this fuse. The 250A Class T fuse 'trip curve' indicates that rating will be support surges to the limit of the inverter capacity but will still trip before the BMS protections and/or "slow blow" 250A fuse internal to my BestGo ~400Ah lithium battery come into play, and that's where I want to be .

Realistically I doubt I'll ever approach the inverter surge limits, but as I experiment with things like a microwave and a mini-split air conditioner (perhaps concurrently) who knows (?), and I'd like to be set up to enjoy the full capabilities of the inverter (I'm more willing to 'test' the inverter than the battery).

We also differ slightly in our component arrangement (e.g. my master battery disconnect is on the negative side with separate individual load/charging-component cutoffs on the positive side); IMO not 'better' or 'worse', just different approaches.

I just hope that my installation execution comes-off as orderly and 'sanitary' as yours (kudos!).

[oldwave]

Originally Posted by Centex

2kW continuous / 4kW 5-sec. surge (xantrex Freedom XC 2000).

The xantrex recommendation is a 250A (maximum) Class T fuse "located as close as possible to the battery, in the positive cable" (with appropriate cable ampacity).

Note that our applications differ not only in inverter rating but also in battery type which bears on sizing this fuse. The 250A Class T fuse 'trip curve' indicates that rating will be support surges to the limit of the inverter capacity but will still trip before the BMS protections and/or "slow blow" 250A fuse internal to my BestGo ~400Ah lithium battery come into play, and that's where I want to be .

Realistically I doubt I'll ever approach the inverter surge limits, but as I experiment with things like a microwave and a mini-split air conditioner (perhaps concurrently) who knows (?), and I'd like to be set up to enjoy the full capabilities of the inverter (I'm more willing to 'test' the inverter than the battery).

We also differ slightly in our component arrangement (e.g. my master battery disconnect is on the negative side with separate individual load/charging-component cutoffs on the positive side); IMO not 'better' or 'worse', just different approaches.

I just hope that my installation execution comes-off as orderly and 'sanitary' as yours (kudos!).

Sounds good, I doubt Ill install that large of a Lithium bank in this trailer, I looked at the Xantrex and decided I wanted to go with Progressive dynamics, though I did downsize a bit to the 1800 watt rather than the 2000 watt, it was a quite a bit cheaper and my ac load on battery will be pretty light with the microwave being the largest draw, my cinema cameras, drone chargers are all pretty light. I suspect right now the Lead Acids will work fine, as I mentioned we are looking at a 25rqb Bigfoot. If I do that one I'll go a little more upscale on the battery bank. What I do like about the Progressive Dynamics equipment is the level of tech support, I talked to Dennis there a few times both before and during my inverter install. I think it's a great company. Still US made in Michigan.
If I go with lithium I have a a bit more to do, MPPT solar controller and another charger, though with some manual intervention their wfco replacement , that I installed will charge lithiums just fine, either on the lithium setting or in boost mode with the charge wizard profile. 200amp hours of batteries will do fine, Im in the North so my use of air-conditioning is pretty light, so I don't really need a mini split.

I'll look forward to your progress. I do recommend the solar disconnect . Cheap and easy.

I have another disconnect for the entire battery bank, my heavy duty one is the inverter only. Ill upgrade the master disconnect if and when I go to 6 gauge from the power center. Also Ill be interested in how you wire the Dc to Dc device, I've scratched my head a bit on that one and trying to figure out the labyrinth of Escape wiring from the 7 pin connector, I'm unsure which wire it is from the bundle connected to the thermal breaker