Isotherm Cruise 195 INOX refrigerator/freezer

[gbaglo]

Nope. Just didn't understand the mechanics.
I've found I can't find a post I made the day before, even searching key words in Google search box. It is frustrating.

[Semievolved]

Originally Posted by Centex

Have to agree with that, I wouldn't want any avoidable heat transfer to the interior in our Texas summers.

i think you probably nailed it that johnny hung needed more roof real estate for panels and that's why he closed off the standard roof frig vent. it occurs to me that an ideal situation would be to leave the roof vent alone but also install the venting system JH used. then, design some diverter so that in summer, waste heat would go outside but in winter you'd direct it inside to help with heating. i wonder how hard that would be to design and build?

[gklott]

Originally Posted by Centex

I'd be interested to know what sort of 12V power consumption/day you actually experience if it's possible for you to isolate that from other system loads?

Started the Isotherm Cruise 195 INOX with refrigerator on AC power, freezer on DC power. Set the temp knobs in each to "6" last night. On a common refrigerator thermometer this morning, the empty refrigerator is 32 deg, and the freezer is -8 deg. Turned the knob to "5" to see how that goes.

As very best case, the Dometic would cool to 45 and 20 deg.

Am using a PwrCheck+ to record the freezer's energy consumption. This device can store months of data, and I have it sampling every 30 sec. As shown, with freezer compressor running, the power consumption is about 40W.



I was surprised to see that Escape ran 8 AWG 105C wire to the refrigerator. Per ABYC E-11 2018, 8 AWG is 80A rated (70A per RVIA LV 2020). I had to adapt using SB50 Anderson PowerPoles.



Eventually all DC wiring will be via a Blue Sea 5025 fuse block mounted behind the Cruise195.

So, the data collect begins...

We continue working on the physical installation. We are positioning the Cruise 195 as far right (toward trailer front) as we can in the original 23-3/4 x 53-3/4" opening. This leaves a 2-7/16" wide x 53-3/4" high space to the unit's left. On top, the gap is about 7/8". Cabinet opening is 7/8" thick. Got a nice piece of 1x3" (actual 3/4 x 2-1/2") red oak at Lowes to fill the space. Need to plane off the width a bit to fit. Will have more details on this later.

73/gus

[Semievolved]

Originally Posted by gklott

Started the Isotherm Cruise 195 INOX with refrigerator on AC power, freezer on DC power. Set the temp knobs in each to "6" last night. On a common refrigerator thermometer this morning, the empty refrigerator is 32 deg, and the freezer is -8 deg. Turned the knob to "5" to see how that goes.

As very best case, the Dometic would cool to 45 and 20 deg.

Am using a PwrCheck+ to record the freezer's energy consumption. This device can store months of data, and I have it sampling every 30 sec. As shown, with freezer compressor running, the power consumption is about 40W.



I was surprised to see that Escape ran 8 AWG 105C wire to the refrigerator. Per ABYC E-11 2018, 8 AWG is 80A rated (70A per RVIA LV 2020). I had to adapt using SB50 Anderson PowerPoles.



Eventually all DC wiring will be via a Blue Sea 5025 fuse block mounted behind the Cruise195.

So, the data collect begins...

We continue working on the physical installation. We are positioning the Cruise 195 as far right (toward trailer front) as we can in the original 23-3/4 x 53-3/4" opening. This leaves a 2-7/16" wide x 53-3/4" high space to the unit's left. On top, the gap is about 7/8". Cabinet opening is 7/8" thick. Got a nice piece of 1x3" (actual 3/4 x 2-1/2") red oak at Lowes to fill the space. Need to plane off the width a bit to fit. Will have more details on this later.

73/gus

this is excellent! what were ambient temps?

[gklott]

Originally Posted by Semievolved

this is excellent! what were ambient temps?

Low this morning was 75. When I took pictures, temp was 88. It’s unusually humid for here at 59%.

73/gus

[Centex]

Really appreciate the ongoing data collection and reporting, Gus, you've certainly got some great tools for doing that. A slight tangent if you don't mind ....

As you know several refrigerator manufacturers using the Secop/Danfoss compressors offer either an AC/DC power option OR a DC-only version for same-sized units, each with their own appropriate integrated electrical components from Secop/Danfoss. Setting aside the slight price difference (a bit more for added AC capability), if interested for other reasons in a unit which offers the choice, do you see any particular advantage / benefit in the added AC capability?

It strikes me that if one has generous converter capacity to provide DC to the fridge / other loads and charging to the battery when connected to shore-power there's no particular benefit, but maybe I'm missing something and you can help me see the light?

Thanks as always for the benefit of your thoughts!

[gklott]

Originally Posted by Centex

Really appreciate the ongoing data collection and reporting, Gus, you've certainly got some great tools for doing that. A slight tangent if you don't mind ....

Thanks. We like experimenting, and data collection is part. We use the PwrCheck+ with our amateur radio setup.

Originally Posted by Centex

...do you see any particular advantage / benefit in the added AC capability?

Not really, given that the daily consumption is ~1 kWHr (figuring one 100 AH 12VDC battery). We have the mains option because the Isotherm Cruise 195 includes it.

Originally Posted by Centex

It strikes me that if one has generous converter capacity to provide DC to the fridge / other loads and charging to the battery when connected to shore-power there's no particular benefit, but maybe I'm missing something and you can help me see the light?

You are correct. If your charger/converter can directly support the ~500WHr fridge (overnight) and fully charge your batteries, you are in good shape. Otherwise, as you describe, you want to have the AC option for taking your refrigerator off your charger.

For us, the DC/AC refrigerator makes sense. For space reasons, we use the Sterling ProCharge Ultra 40 Amp (PCU1240). We get ~ 4 kWHr overnight. This matches our four Battleborn GC2 lithium batteries. Given our additional daytime charging from 340W solar and via our Sterling B2B 30A charger, the Isotherm mains power capability is a 10% cushion.

73/gus

[Centex]

^ More great info / explanation, Thank You, Gus!

[gklott]

Originally Posted by gklott

Started the Isotherm Cruise 195 INOX with refrigerator on AC power, freezer on DC power. Set the temp knobs in each to "6" last night. On a common refrigerator thermometer this morning, the empty refrigerator is 32 deg, and the freezer is -8 deg. Turned the knob to "5" to see how that goes.

Well..... on "5" the refrigerator stayed at 32 deg and the freezer dropped to -12 deg.

We removed the Cruise 195 to finish the trim. Sorbothane pad for the base comes in today. Will wait until we complete installation and put some food in before collecting more data.

Think we will start with the "4" setting...

73/gus

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Nope. Just didn't understand the mechanics.
I've found I can't find a post I made the day before, even searching key words in Google search box. It is frustrating.

When logged in click on your username at the top right, then "Statistics", then click "Find all posts by gbaglo"

[Semievolved]

Originally Posted by gklott

Well..... on "5" the refrigerator stayed at 32 deg and the freezer dropped to -12 deg.

We removed the Cruise 195 to finish the trim. Sorbothane pad for the base comes in today. Will wait until we complete installation and put some food in before collecting more data.

Think we will start with the "4" setting...

73/gus

i very much appreciate your sharing this real-world testing with us, especially since I still have not decided on the compressor frig. You just hit on one of my main issues though and that is that you cannot set a temperature, you can only regulate by number dials. For me, this means having to frequently monitor frig temp and adjust accordingly. I wish some manufacturer would take it to the next level and actually provide a thermostatically controlled compessor unit. The Isotherm and other compressor frigs are very appealing except this factor which will leave me in the same boat on having to monitor and adjust rather than set and forget.

[Semievolved]

I should clarify that part of the difficulty regulating frig comes from large daily temp swings where I usually find myself camping. It was a huge problem in the Scamp and much less so (but still noticeable) in the Escape. I attribute the main improvement in the great insulation and isolation of the frig/freezer in the Escape which helps moderate the outdoor temperature swings. Still need to watch and adjust it though.

[gbaglo]

I use an indoor/outdoor thermometer to monitor my 2510 so I don't have to open the door, but i still have to open the door to adjust the temp. That is stupid, but thankfully, I don't have a circuit board to fail.

[Semievolved]

I do the same, Glenn. But, getting ready to leave for the day for a long hike or go to bed always trying to guess which setting will be best for the frig not to heat up but also make sure I don't freeze vegetables. With the Dometic in the Scamp, once the frig got up too high (like upper 40s), it was a losing game trying to get it back down again. Always a crap shoot. I have been pleasantly surprised with the Dometic in the Escape, much more predictable and reliable.

[gklott]

Originally Posted by Semievolved

You just hit on one of my main issues though and that is that you cannot set a temperature, you can only regulate by number dials. For me, this means having to frequently monitor frig temp and adjust accordingly. I wish some manufacturer would take it to the next level and actually provide a thermostatically controlled compessor unit. The Isotherm and other compressor frigs are very appealing except this factor which will leave me in the same boat on having to monitor and adjust rather than set and forget.

Recommend checking out the Isotherm Intelligent Temperature Control (SED00036DA) and the Smart Energy Control Kit (SED00033AA). These may be close to your set-and-forget, PLUS.

We are looking at adding the Intelligent Temperature Control.

73/gus

[Semievolved]

Originally Posted by gklott

Recommend checking out the Isotherm Intelligent Temperature Control (SED00036DA) and the Smart Energy Control Kit (SED00033AA). These may be close to your set-and-forget, PLUS.

We are looking at adding the Intelligent Temperature Control.

73/gus

Wow, that is excellent! That appears to be exactly what I was looking for and could be the last mental hurdle to the compressor frig. I need to dig in and see if it will work with the NovaKold brand as well since it says it is compatible with Danfoss compressors and I have not decided which way to go yet. Thank you!

[Rossue]

Glad to have read this thread; have been deciding between a NovaKool R5810, a Truck Fridge TF130 and an Isotherm Cruise 130 Elegance Black.

The NovaKool is the largest under counter that van conversions can use at 5.8 cu.ft., yet is $2,700 delivered if it can be found. Everything else is 4.6 cu. ft. or less. Indel makes the components for Truck Fridge, Isotherm and Vitrifigo and I know Santiago used the Vintrifigo with the external cooling unit on his van build. There is a difference in overall quality though and the Truck Fridge version would have been $900 with shipping, and West Marine has through today $100 of on their Isotherm- $1,189, and can pick it up at a store with no freight charge AND can be sure it isn't damaged by a freight company. Evidently that is not uncommon with appliances.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/isoth...03?recordNum=4

[gklott]

We finished our Isotherm Cruise 195 install. We positioned the unit as far right (toward front of trailer) as we could inside the old Dometic DM 2663 refrigerator opening. We mounted it flush with the cabinet front.



As expected, nothing about the ETI original installation is straight or square! The left side filler piece is ~ 2-1/4" wide by 1-1/2" thick red oak going from inside cabinet top to Cruise 195 base.



We turned on both the refrigerator and freezer, running only on our DC system. As shown, startup produced maximum power draw ~ 138W. This is a little higher than the manual specifications. With setting on "4", running overnight the empty freezer went to -12 deg and empty refrigerator to 36. The energy-usage measurement device is sampling and storing every minute. Will download the usage profile in a week or so.



As reported by others, once cooled, we expect to consume ≤ 1 kW-Hr/day, or about one Battleborn GC2 battery. Will be looking to reduce power consumption as mentioned above.

Cruise 195 is quiet! We can slightly hear the fan, but we do not notice the compressors running. When lying in bed with my head by the refrigerator, I notice no noise from the Cruise 195.

We really enjoyed this fun and significant upgrade project. We sure like the look.

We just started the Dickinson cooktop replacement of the Suburban SD2!

73/gus

[Gravedigger1]

following

[TTMartin]

Originally Posted by gklott

For comparison, the typical W/24-hr consumption listed in the Isotherm brochure:
CR165 = 600
CR195 = 840
CR200 = 800
CR219 = 650
CR271 = 700

* Power consumption W/24hr in operation at 12V with +5°C [41° F] in the refrigeration space, ambient temperature +25°C [77° F]

That refrigerator temperature is higher than the safe temperature (<40° F) recommended by the USDA / FDA, and even higher than what is considered optimal (37° F).

So it would be interesting to find out what real world energy usage is.

My 6.3 cu ft Dometic in my trailer is set so I normally have 36° F in the refrigerator and about 5° F in the freezer. The tempertures are measured by a remote thermometer attached to the middle of the door.

The compressor style dual zone chest style compressor refrigerator freezer in my Sprinter is set to 3°C in the refrigerator and -16°C in the freezer, with the compressor set to low speed ECO mode. The MaxxAir fan is set to 78°F. I have to be very religious about putting the window vents in my Sprinter, as the couple times I've forgotten the chest style compressor refrigerator freezer has not been able to maintain its set temperature on ECO mode as the interior temperatures were too high.