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Old 02-05-2021, 07:43 PM   #1
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Kernwig's Solar Build

Thank you to many of you for your tips on adding solar to an Escape trailer. I've learned much reading about your efforts on this forum, and so am paying it forward with my story.

I purchased a used 2017 Escape 21C that had nothing solar on it, just two 6V AGM batteries in the passenger-side dinette seat.

Parts List (prices USD):

Lensun® 100W 12V ETFE Black Flexible Solar Panel with Fiberglass Back, Model LS-100FX2-156 - $178
Lensun® 80W 12V ETFE Fiberglass Black Flexible Solar Panel, Model LS-80FX2 - $149
40ft 10 AWS Solar Wire - $22
Solar Branch Connectors - $9
Solar Crimper Tools and MC4 connectors - $27
Go Power! GP-CEP Cable Entry Plate for MC4 - $24
Cable Ties and Mounts - $8
EternaBond tape 2" x 50' white - $32
EPEVER MPPT Solar Charge Controller 30A - $138
DC Circuit Breaker 30 amp x 2 - $36
5ft black 5ft red 6 AWG wire - $17
6 AWG Battery Cable 2ft - $10
DIN Rail Dinkle Terminal Blocks - $30
10 AWG SAE Solar Port - $10
Extra USB and 12V ports - $12
REGRET Butyl Seal Tape - $17
REGRET Dicor 501LSW-1 Lap Sealant - $12

Total: $731

My impression of the Lensun solar panels:

They are not the cheapest per watt out there, but I primarily went with them because they are proven by others on this forum. The price premium buys some the highest efficiency rating panels, quality build, fiberglass backing, and very responsive (overnight) support.

Don't get carried away with the "flexible" description on these - they are quite stiff and only follow slight curves. I'm glad I didn't go with bigger panels and try to bend them more around the roof's curve.

Continued...
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Old 02-05-2021, 07:45 PM   #2
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continuing

Demolition:

I didn't have a specific wattage target in mind, but like the idea that I may run the refrigerator on DC on a sunny day. I could do the three 80W panels layout, but there would be a good amount of shading in between the A/C and Maxxfan, and by the TV antenna on the front unless the trailer is facing south. My wife and I never watch broadcast TV at home, so the TV antenna was doing nothing but get in the way. By removing it, I could easily fit a 100W panel in the front with enough spacing to rarely be in shadow. I filled the big hole with bits of foam, all holes with Dicor, and then because the Dicor remained squishy I then covered it all with EternaBond tape. The solar panel now covers all of that!

Continued...
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Old 02-05-2021, 07:48 PM   #3
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continuing

Interior:

I didn't want to use up any more storage space than necessary, thus the solar controller is mounted flat on a piece of plywood connected to the wood rod that holds the battery box shut. The DIN Rail on the floor holds the terminal blocks and circuit breakers. The breakers are on the positive input from solar and positive between the solar controller and battery. The breakers serve as both fuse and off switch.

Two solar wires and the controller's remote display CAT5 wire were run up behind the padded rear-passenger corner cover and into the empty space in the corner between the overhead compartments. (I pried the end cap faux wood off to get in there.) Solar wires go up through the roof and the CAT5 to the rear compartment to the remote display. Zip ties and mounts hold everything in place.

Continued...
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PXL_20210116_222745279.jpg   PXL_20210116_223657222.jpg   PXL_20210202_215954331.jpg   PXL_20210202_220007614.jpg  
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Old 02-05-2021, 07:49 PM   #4
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continuing

Portal Solar Port:

I put an SAE (Zamp) port on the rear of the trailer right next to the battery vent. This was my first time drilling a hole in the fiberglass - very scary!

I first tried to put Butyl on the back and Dicor to hold in place, based on instructions I had for the roof entry port. The tension on the still wires inside pushed this right back out. Neither of these products do anything to hold stuff in place under any sort of stress. The Butyl made the port stick out the whole install ugly!

After cleaning all that mess up, I drilled four more little holes in the fiberglass and used screws and nuts on the inside to hold the port firmly. Then just a little Dicor around the edge and over the screw heads for a much nicer install.

Continued...
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Old 02-05-2021, 07:51 PM   #5
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continuing

Roof Install:

The panels were placed and taped down all around with EternaBond to prevent any water or dirt from getting under them.

The leads were extended with the solar wires and MC4 connectors that came with the crimper kit. Every few feet and around connections I EternaBond taped down a mount and zip tied the wires in place.

Two holes were drilled in the roof and into the overhead storage area above the passenger dinette. Each hole is just a bit larger than the wire, rather than one big hole the diameter of both with a lot of gap. The cable entry plate was crimped to the wires coming up from inside and mounted down. I tried following the directions to use the Dicor sealant in all the grooves under the plate, but that stuff does not want to come out of that tube! Ultimately I wasn't going to use the screws anyway, and just EternaBond taped the plate down with the underside (and wire holes) about half filled with Dicor.
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Old 02-05-2021, 07:55 PM   #6
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"Diagrams"

My planning "diagrams". Don't judge.

The roof layout was before we decided to remove the TV antenna. Doing so allowed me to upgrade the panel from 60W to 100W.

Squiggles "erase" my earlier plan to run the trailer's load through the solar controller. I left it direct to the batteries per wording in the controller's manual that the load output is only for light loads and that A/C can't charge the battery that way.

The last picture is the terminal block.
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Old 02-05-2021, 07:59 PM   #7
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Extra interior ports

This didn't fit with the other posts - but I added the extra 12V and USB ports under the dinette seat.
They are wired to the solar controller's load output, which I can toggle on and off via the remote display.
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Old 02-05-2021, 09:40 PM   #8
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Looks great! Thank you so much for taking the time to document this. I’ve been thinking about a very similar install but haven’t pulled the trigger yet. Your parts list will be very helpful as a starting point.

Mark B1 used the same controller and did connect the trailer load to it. I’m wondering how he made it work and why you thought it was not the right approach? Maybe I need to search out the manual for the controller.
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Old 02-06-2021, 01:37 AM   #9
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Very nice install ! Pat
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Old 03-13-2021, 11:10 AM   #10
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MPPT vs PWM

I have occasionally seen people say that MPPT isn't "worth it" over PWM solar controllers. I have no idea what the thinking there is. The picture below is my counter argument. This was taken on a foggy morning. MPPT provided for 40% more charge than PWM would have.
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Old 07-08-2021, 03:25 PM   #11
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Eternabond tape just failed in the Utah desert, at 106 Fahrenheit. Panels vanished, nothing but wires dangling from the roof. :'-(
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Old 07-08-2021, 03:33 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kernwig View Post
Eternabond tape just failed in the Utah desert, at 106 Fahrenheit. Panels vanished, nothing but wires dangling from the roof. :'-(
Not meaning to be a jerk because Do understand you are upset . I hope you used , acetone to clean the gel gloss where your tape was being installed . Other then that really don’t understand the failure . 106 is hot but we also experience those temps here in California and in our travels since the install . Pat
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Old 07-08-2021, 04:48 PM   #13
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I am sorry to hear that…always disappointing when a modification fails.
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Old 07-08-2021, 05:36 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patandlinda View Post
Not meaning to be a jerk because Do understand you are upset . I hope you used , acetone to clean the gel gloss where your tape was being installed .
Fair question; I'd like to know what failed before trying again!

I don't recall acetone being mentioned in these threads. I cleaned with rubbing alcohol. Got more information from my wife who is actually on the trip without me. The rear panel is fine, just the front one tore off. That makes sense - a lot more wind shear up there. I can see in the picture that the forward edge tape went with the panel, but the sides and back remained on the trailer.

I'm noticing that under the stress, the Enternabond-down monuts stayed in place and the zip ties broke. That's as expected.
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Old 07-08-2021, 06:00 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Fair question; I'd like to know what failed before trying again!

I don't recall acetone being mentioned in these threads. I cleaned with rubbing alcohol. Got more information from my wife who is actually on the trip without me. The rear panel is fine, just the front one tore off. That makes sense - a lot more wind shear up there. I can see in the picture that the forward edge tape went with the panel, but the sides and back remained on the trailer.

I'm noticing that under the stress, the Enternabond-down monuts stayed in place and the zip ties broke. That's as expected.
I have used acetone a couple times . I did speak to am solar and he said that was very important for adhesion . Who knows wax or just the gel coat could be a problem . The acetone is stronger then alcohol . We do also have 3 60 watts of Lensun on the roof . One is at the front . It has been now at least 3 years since install . If it helps I can dig out roof photo’s or take some now . But you did a nice install and the Enternbond is strong tape . I did not worry about a space under the panels either. The backing was good enough for me . So I am thinking the adhesion of tape could be a problem . Pat
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Old 07-08-2021, 06:05 PM   #16
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While a little late now, I prefer acetone to alcohol, and pure alcohol is better than rubbing alcohol which is 30% water. Sorry you lost the panel, but at least it wasn't a 30 pound framed one.
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Old 07-08-2021, 06:24 PM   #17
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Sad thing is that we littered the highway too.... couldn't find it.

I vaguely recall seeing installs where some sort of lip was put on the leading edge, but I think those were hard panels? Not sure how that would work with tape.

So far its: acetone prep (will need to get the old residue off anyway!) and probably just more generous layers of tape on that leading edge.

At least I still have the 80W in the rear. Have to get something back on the front though because I don't 100% trust the plugging up of the old TV antenna hole without something else over it. At least I have it under a carport at home now.

More thoughts welcome!
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Old 07-08-2021, 07:20 PM   #18
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From your photos, it appears that the tape was still mostly adhered to the trailer roof, but appears to have curled first, or failed at the tape - flexible panel interface. The front edge appears to be different in that that seam failure may have been the roof-tape interface (?). Is it clearer when you look at it as opposed to the photos?
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Old 07-08-2021, 07:35 PM   #19
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It seems almost unbelievable that it would come up with all that tape. I know this is probably a remote possibility but any chance it might have been stolen?
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Old 07-08-2021, 07:43 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kernwig View Post
Sad thing is that we littered the highway too.... couldn't find it.

I vaguely recall seeing installs where some sort of lip was put on the leading edge, but I think those were hard panels? Not sure how that would work with tape.

So far its: acetone prep (will need to get the old residue off anyway!) and probably just more generous layers of tape on that leading edge.

At least I still have the 80W in the rear. Have to get something back on the front though because I don't 100% trust the plugging up of the old TV antenna hole without something else over it. At least I have it under a carport at home now.

More thoughts welcome!
Prep with acetone . Am solar said if still too shiny from the gel gloss very fine wet , dry
Sandpaper to scuff up the surface only where tape is going . I didn’t the acetone was enough . I used 2 in wide tape on solar panel . Didn’t worry about a wind shield in front if taped down good . Definitely wood clean up previous and start over . If you have good adhesion you should be fine . We have a 19 . Forgot how far back we are from front edge . Will take a look for you . Same for your cable wires attached good to roof .
Could go wider on the leading edge if you feel not enough . Pat
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