low profile battery kill switch replacement?

[Centex]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

But even a hole saw will make a clean hole usually without chipping if you apply painters tape over the area that will be cut.

Another surface chip-prevention tip for material prone to such (or materials with 'bonded vinyl' surfaces that risk unsightly snags) ... cut a hardboard template with the holesaw and then use that to guide a sharp X-acto blade for deeply scoring the material (through the painter's tape already in-place) prior to using the holesaw.

[alanmalk]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

...
I'm not sure you understand the objectives here*.

I went to Wally-World and found a condiment cup made of thick, clear plastic condiment cup ($0.98),

Why spend $0.98 when you could have spent $25 on a Forstner bit? (Now down to 1 1/8")

"Compact Battery Disconnect Switch mounts into standard 1 1/8" panel mount hole. Single circuit ON-OFF switch is rated up to 125A".

Plus another $25 for the switch itself?

*Where is your lust for goodies?
--
Alan

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by alanmalk

Why spend $0.98 when you could have spent $25 on a Forstner bit? (Now down to 1 1/8")

"Compact Battery Disconnect Switch mounts into standard 1 1/8" panel mount hole. Single circuit ON-OFF switch is rated up to 125A".

Plus another $25 for the switch itself?

*Where is your lust for goodies?
--
Alan

Actually, I think I do understand the objectives. I had a Hitachi battery powered drill for the Escape since before I picked it up. I just decided I wanted travel tools (all using the same battery) so I recently purchased a Ryobi drill, impact wrench, leaf blower, hybrid fan, and hybrid light. The impact wrench is so, in the event of a tire problem on the truck (150 ft/lbs) I don’t have to jump on a breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts. We’re talking over $500, much more than another Forstner bit and a switch. And I paid cash for a new F-150 after my 2015 was fried by lightning, no insurance claim involved for a variety of reasons. And last year I installed a 2,000 watt pure sine wave inverter in my Escape, for the sole purpose of being able to run a coffee maker that draws 1,500 watts and to be able to nuke lunch if we stop at a rest area. So replacing the battery switch and $0.98 switch guard is really small potatoes, way down on the list. I think you have perceived me all wrong. I’m as lustful as the next guy!

Quick edit. It appears the 1-1/8 switch has a flange that would cover any chipping so Forstner bit not needed. But being somewhat O/C, I would buy one anyway. No, wait, I already have one that size.

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

I could see no reason to change the switch, but each one of us has to do what makes us happy.

How about this for a reason. The Escape toggle type battery cutoff switch is rated for a max of 30 amps and connected to a 55 amp converter. If the WFCO ever sends full current to the battery, I hope you have a spare switch.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

How about this for a reason. The Escape toggle type battery cutoff switch is rated for a max of 30 amps and connected to a 55 amp converter. If the WFCO ever sends full current to the battery, I hope you have a spare switch.

How about this in response your reason, with no offense intended. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”
Although I am aware it’s not the greatest switch, mine has been problem free for 5 years, with an average of over 100 days per year on the road. IF and WHEN it becomes problematic, I will replace or upgrade it. I would hazard a guess that more than 75% of the trailers sold by ETI since it’s onset still have the “abomination” of this originally installed battery disconnect switch. I do not do a lot of boondocking nor do I use a lot of DC power except for LED lighting and supplying the refrigerator as the board requires 12 vdc and in five years have only used the furnace two times. I do not anticipate the converter ever overloading it. What amperage I use from the batteries is typically replaced by the solar panel and I generally have the battery switch off except while towing (batteries are on a smart charger when trailer is not in use).
Should I go buy new brake pads for my 2020 F-150 and change them just for the sake of it? I, like everyone else here make modifications and supposed “upgrades” to my trailer as I see fit. I have completed numerous mods. While I can’t leave some things alone, others I can. I appreciate your hope that I have a spare, but I have seen the exact same switch at several O’Reilly Auto Parts outlets. Not having a spare switch is far less of a concern to me than not having a spare tire.

[Centex]

Originally Posted by tdf-texas

How about this for a reason. The Escape toggle type battery cutoff switch is rated for a max of 30 amps and connected to a 55 amp converter. If the WFCO ever sends full current to the battery, I hope you have a spare switch.

And, heaven forbid, a fire extinguisher.

Must say that the more I read on this forum the more I feel that the 12v electrical wiring is the one place that Escape really does seem to miss some important details

[gbaglo]

I expect I could find an electrician that would be highly critical of the electrical work that some feel they need to do. Seems to be the nature of the beast.

I've modified nothing in 12 years and am just a "happy camper".

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Centex

And, heaven forbid, a fire extinguisher.

Must say that the more I read on this forum the more I feel that the 12v electrical wiring is the one place that Escape really does seem to miss some important details

Does that mean that after replacing the substandard battery cutoff switch the next modification will be a whole trailer fire suppression system? Could probably be done by replacing one of the 20 pound propane tanks with a 20 pound halon cylinder.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

Does that mean that after replacing the substandard battery cutoff switch the next modification will be a whole trailer fire suppression system?

The idea is to avoid the need for a fire suppression system.

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

Could probably be done by replacing one of the 20 pound propane tanks with a 20 pound halon cylinder.

Halon hasn't been produced for a quarter century and should now only be used in critical applications; computer datacentres have been removing Halon fire suppression systems for many years. You might try Halotron 1 instead.

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

The idea is to avoid the need for a fire suppression system.


Halon hasn't been produced for a quarter century and should now only be used in critical applications; computer datacentres have been removing Halon fire suppression systems for many years. You might try Halotron 1 instead.

I was not suggesting someone install a fire suppression system whatsoever. I was sarcastically responding to what I perceived as being an overblown panic about the battery cut-off switch installed by ETI. And I am aware of the production status of Halon. That is precisely why I suggested it in my post. From my point of view, some members overstate the danger of certain situations, and try to convince others a disaster will occur if that situation is not addressed. I, for one, do not believe a semi with a flatbed trailer is needed to transport a bicycle.

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

I was not suggesting someone install a fire suppression system whatsoever. I was sarcastically responding to what I perceived as being an overblown panic about the battery cut-off switch installed by ETI. And I am aware of the production status of Halon. That is precisely why I suggested it in my post. From my point of view, some members overstate the danger of certain situations, and try to convince others a disaster will occur if that situation is not addressed. I, for one, do not believe a semi with a flatbed trailer is needed to transport a bicycle.

Hi: C&G in FL... The second best thing to having a Forstner bit... is having a friend with one!!! Thanks for knowing the drill. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

I was not suggesting someone install a fire suppression system whatsoever. I was sarcastically responding to what I perceived as being an overblown panic about the battery cut-off switch installed by ETI.

I realize that is was sarcastic. That's what the smilies were for...

[C&G in FL]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

I realize that is was sarcastic. That's what the smilies were for...

Gotcha! I didn’t pick upon the smiles. Just out of curiosity, what is your take on the appropriateness of the ETI installed switch?

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

Just out of curiosity, what is your take on the appropriateness of the ETI installed switch?

The lever style appears to be inappropriate for the location, causing the many reported problems with breakage. The rating appears to be inappropriate for the circuit, which may not have caused any problems... yet (mostly because the converter's peak output is rarely if ever delivered to the battery, and because few if any users have enough 12 V DC load aside from the inverter to overload the switch).

It is common to use a momentary-contact rocker switch and a relay for this storage switching purpose (that's what my motorhome has), but in the Escape's case the complication of a relay is unnecessary.

I think I would replace it with one of the substantial rotary switches intended for this purpose; a similar switch (but with a long handle) worked as a safety disconnect in our race car, and they're easy to use and well-proven. For the connection between the battery and power centre the usual 400 amp rating of the big rotary switches is unnecessary, and the 100 amp smaller rotary switch from PowerWerx looks appealing.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by C&G in FL

First off, I do not have a mantle as fireplaces are not needed in Florida.
I would have to find some other use for it. Perhaps an anchor for a model boat? Or maybe just take it with me and use it to make irreparable holes in tires of people who piss me off in campgrounds.
And, frequently doing wood projects, I cannot think of many tools I have purchased that haven’t been used multiple times. One that immediately comes to mind is the Dremel, which I purchased for a specific task and I thought after that I would have little use for it. I’m on my second one now because the first one wore out, because I use it often. With a cut off wheel, you can shorten stainless steel bolts. I have purchased various sized Forstner bits over the years for specific projects and now have 6 or 7 of them. And none of them has been consigned to the “I’ll never use that again drawer.”
And a 3-inch bit to install a switch? That’s a rather large switch it would seem. But you could always use the 3-inch Forstner bit to make birdhouses for ravens!
But even a hole saw will make a clean hole usually without chipping if you apply painters tape over the area that will be cut.
I am perfectly satisfied with the battery cut-off switch installed by ETI. It was over a year before it got “accidentally” hit and turned off. I went to Wally-World and found a condiment cup made of thick, clear plastic condiment cup ($0.98), drilled the proper sized hole in its bottom, removed the nut on the switch, slipped the cup over the switch, and reinstalled the nut. No more accidental battery cut-offs. I could see no reason to change the switch, but each one of us has to do what makes us happy.

Those Dremel’s are handy little tools too. Pat

[comsult]

one of the first mods I made on my trailer was to add a chrome drawer handle beside the toggle switch. The handle on the toggle is fairly long, and I wanted to have it easily reached and switched. So I kept it original and added the handle to protect it from being accidentally switched off. Been working fine for me for the last 6 years now.

[Dee Lirious]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

You've probably never had to try and pull glowing hot wires off a battery terminal.

I like my battery disconnect handy and quick to reach.

Ron

I had to do that on an ATV out in the woods one day miles from anywhere. The battery was right under my ass and melted the terminals and wires, it was seconds from sending the ATV up in flames.
Fortunately I always had a Leatherman tool on my belt and was able to rip off the wires from the battery with the pliers. Happens fast and is NOT nice !

[jadams]

Originally Posted by Centex

cut a hardboard template with the holesaw and then use that to guide a sharp X-acto blade for deeply scoring the material (through the painter's tape already in-place) prior to using the holesaw.

Nice tip Alan! Will help me in the future.

I copied Ron in BC with my Sea Systems install. $28 shipped from Amazon.

I don't think this product would rub against your leg John. Lower profile than the original spec toggle switch.

Oh, the backing plate is included with the switch. Had to source the bolts though.

Ron's install is a bit more pro than mine. It was dicey using a new carbide hole saw in this on the thin 1/4" lauan. Had a backer wood plate and Frog taped the face. This was just an awkward location in my 17B to use a drill with a hole saw.

[Earl]

Consider a "low voltage disconnect". Blue Sea makes one (65A continuous, 115A intermittent with optional alarm). The Blue Sea one, like many others, has a wired remote/indicator that controls a programmable relay. The battery is disconnected either by this switch or when the battery voltage drops below a user programmed voltage. We had one (not Blue Sea) on our caravan in Australia and it saved our battery once when the cooling fan ran the battery too in the middle of the night.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by jadams

Nice tip Alan! Will help me in the future.

I copied Ron in BC with my Sea Systems install. $28 shipped from Amazon.

I don't think this product would rub against your leg John. Lower profile than the original spec toggle switch.

Oh, the backing plate is included with the switch. Had to source the bolts though.

Ron's install is a bit more pro than mine. It was dicey using a new carbide hole saw in this on the thin 1/4" lauan. Had a backer wood plate and Frog taped the face. This was just an awkward location in my 17B to use a drill with a hole saw.

Look at the positives; you have a very strong switch that won't accidently broken or turned off or on accidently. And you took the initiative and went ahead and did something a little unfamilar, building up your "can do" attitude.

Ron