Modifications to Eggscape

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Ed: With the Dremel you can control the depth by being careful. The window was done in two steps as there is an air gap between the shell and shower liner. I cut through the outside shell first. Then had someone press the shower stall against the exterior and traced the opening onto the backside of the shower stall. Then from the outside was able to cut the shower stall. A little nerve wracking but I nailed it.
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...tml#post184313

The medicine cabinet did require me to cut the wood wall for a complete opening between the bath and closet. I used the Dremel for the fiberglass and a jigsaw for the two layers of wood paneling.
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...tml#post187403

Dave very neat work with whatever tool you used . Pat

[cpaharley2008]

Reminds me of the songs about a man with a slow hand and easy touch....

[tdf-texas]

A rotary saw with a masonry bit works well. I use a guide strip to help cut the straight cuts and the corners are easy. Depth of cut is easy to adjust as well.

[Eggscape]

Found it!

Your post reminded me that I have one of those. Just needed to figure out where in the shop it was.

That would have been ideal to cut out my speaker openings...just need a very large drop cloth to catch the debris.

The attachment is for cutting round holes of different sizes as in the speaker holes or the hole I cut for the outside sail switch access hatch.

Now people not familiar with the operation of this and the other tools mentioned can spend some time on YouTube learning the do’s and don’ts before they zip a two foot scare across their trailer.

[cpaharley2008]

They also have special drill bits you can use in your drill that allows you to cut sideways, but guides are definitely needed as it is hard to control lateral arm movement. That is why the oscillating tool is nice, very precise cuts and the tool does not wander as the drill may. If you ever use a router you know how freehand use can lead to mistakes vs having a guide.

[h2owmn]

Ed, I was perusing your item for floor insulation ideas...I like your locking tiles. Are they the same brand/size as the ones in your bathroom (connect-a-mat)?

The hanging pockets I ordered have arrived. Now to determine where they will go. Not much choice on a 17--entry wall, dining room wall, wardrobe wall. I plan to use command hooks, at least at first, so I can reposition if needed.

If anyone else has floor and/or under bench compartment insulation ideas, let me know. I have tried searching and it is too broad a category. Thinking maybe indoor outdoor carpet for under benches.
Maybe reflectix for the side walls.

Thanks.

[Eggscape]

I am not sure who makes the main floor tiles but they were also the standard 2ft square configuration.
Good luck on your pockets.

[EdColorado]

Originally Posted by h2owmn

If anyone else has floor and/or under bench compartment insulation ideas, let me know. I have tried searching and it is too broad a category. Thinking maybe indoor outdoor carpet for under benches.
Maybe reflectix for the side walls.

Thanks.

I use these under the seats, between the mattress and the exterior wall, behind the seat cushions, etc. Any place where appearance isn’t an issue.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Venture-P...ll&athena=true

Insulating, sound deadening, water resistant, mold/mildew treated, slip resistant, inexpensive.

Ed

[HABBERDABBER]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Oh, the memories.

I had to look it all up. Jez, the stuff we have rattling about in our heads. Well, at least it's still there. Some of it, sometimes.

[Eggscape]

If my Cheapfield table base made out of pipe didn’t do it for you...check out this Video on how to making a Lagun table base out of pipe.

If it was not for having my granddaughter and friends needing to slide around the U dinette and the possibility of them accidentally shoving the table and drinks flying everywhere...I might have considered this.

https://youtu.be/owluWNKs7dU

[marant]

We had some of those interlocking foam pads used for exercise or to make soft floor work areas. Relatively cheap and easy to cut to fit with scissors, can support weight and simple to glue if you want. We fit them in the underseat outside storage areas (sides and bottom), where they also retard things sliding around.

[Eggscape]

That is also a good use for them.

[h2owmn]

Thanks. I am going to check out those "tiles".

[Eggscape]

If you are just going to put it on the floor in the storage areas for insulation etc...you can sometimes pick up cheap work out mats or camp rolls you sleep on. Check out the dollar or surplus stores...just layer them up and fewer seams maybe.

[Eggscape]

The short story...I made a two section headboard that tilts into individual loungers.

The details...I wanted to build a headboard, for a number of reasons. One was to keep my wife’s pillow off the wall should the wall be damp when she wants to sit up in bed and read. If she is going to sit up against the headboard, why not make it tilt out to form a supportive sloped back. However, I am not a sit up in bed kind of guy. Therefore, the headboard is split into two sections so we can each adjust the headboard how we want. When it is not tilted out it still allows some ventilation behind it. It takes up about 2 inches which is easily recovered as you can now jam your pillow up against the wall and not have worry that it might get damp.

NOTE: Since I made the headboard I have come up with another design that will give the same function and many people may find it easier to make. It is also more flexible in design for a broader range of trailers, with or without a window above the headboard. I need to do a few more modification posts before I attempt to explain this alternative solution as they will be used as a reference. So don’t get your tools in a knot just yet.

When designing the headboard I wanted to make sure it was easily removable to facilitate the space required to remove the mattress. The key to the design are the loose pin hinges that allow the headboard panels to be removed as needed. They are available at most hardware stores.

I formed a cross member under the window that is made out of aluminium track light bar...a product that I have used in the trailer on other projects. I like it because when painted semi gloss black, it matches the window frame perfectly. You could always use a piece of wood...something like a broken hockey stick might be just right.

The cross bar is attached to the bottom of the window and the bulkhead wall. I drilled down through the awning style window frame into the aluminium bar and attached it with 1/8” dia pop rivets, but you could use screws if you use wood. The front end of the bar is attached to the bulkhead wall using a bent “T” bracket. The installation of this bar significantly stabilizes the wall from flexing. Pictures of the bar are in my next post.

The two panels are made from 3/8” plywood 26 inches wide by 10.5 inches high. Your panel height might be taller if you do not have the insulating foam and damp proofing raising the mattress like we do as seen in post # 325.

The mechanism that holds the panel at an angle forming the lounge mode is very simple. It is just a board the folds down providing the cross section support. As the entire panel is removable you can cut down the support a few times until you get it just right.

I covered the two panels in dense foam...similar in nature to the foam flooring I used in the bathroom. Then covered it with some stock fabric. Keep in mind there is nothing that states your bedroom fabric has to match your dining room. Maybe you want to live on the wild side and use two different fabrics in your trailer. It is all glued together with spray contact cement then stapled on the backside.

Between the wall and mattress I installed more dimple material to ensure the mattress never touches the wall. It also allows further ventilation of the dimple material under the bed.

With the new lounger back supporting a pillow...sitting on the bed is now a super comfortable place I may spend some time during a rainy day.

[Eggscape]

Headboard bar pictures.

[Eggscape]

The Short Story...I installed a foot board and side board to keep the mattress away from the wall and any dampness.

The Details...It was just logical to continue the dimple material around the rest of the area and keep the mattress away from the walls. I also wanted to keep our sleeping bag dry, so I extended them up beyond the mattress. Having the dimple material on three sides also increases the air flow of the dimple material under the mattress.

By now you are familiar with the dimple product I am using around and below the mattress. However, it does not stand up by itself and has a tendency to flop over if not supported. This led me to support it with some very thin plywood/paneling. I covered the paneling with matching fabric that was attached using spray adhesive. I left about 2 inches of fabric beyond the ends of the wood that would curve nicely in the corners and be trapped behind the corner pads. The wood also extends under the corner pads but only by about a 1/4 inch. Before removing the corner pads, mark their location with a piece of tape. This will allow you to line up the screws easier when reinstalling.

The material doesn’t go all the way down to the bottom of the wood as I did not want any wicking affect. In fact, I used a strip of vapour barrier tape applied to the bottom of the wood to protect it as well from wicking. If you don’t have matching material there is nothing to say that your bedroom has to match the rest of the trailer. Note however, that if you are buying material...it is way harder to line up patterns than to use plain material. You can see the pattern matching in the photos below. To form a continuous fabric line I also covered the lower portion of the corner pads. This goes along with the continuous fabric line of the valances and shelves under the cabinets.

[brightday]

[cpaharley2008]

Why not use the Hypermesh, it is white, opaque and will stand up by itself around the perimeter? Your material seems like it would block horizontal air movement or at least channel it away from the mattress vertically. What about moisture from within the mattress now getting trapped around the sides?

[Eggscape]

I didn’t think it would look as good sticking up above the mattress or as smooth on arms and feet.

With the amount of ventilation I have created throughout the entire bottom of our mattress, I am not worried about the edge...but I will keep track. There is a tiny bit of space where I could still slip in some more dimple between the wood and mattress...but only mattress high.

And then there is the availability here in Canada, cost of the product and delivery.