Modifications to Eggscape - Page 31

Bobbie54 · 01-17-2021, 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eggscape

Thanks all.

Originally I want to design something to aid in using the sewer hose as well. However when I was looking into buying a new hose I came across these orange sewer hose wrenches. Once I saw these there was no reason to reinvent the wheel. The price varies a lot for the same product.

There are also caps with reasonably sized handles...but what fun is that.

I bought those wrenches. There was not room to use them so they went back. I can get the cap off fine, it's the hose I can't get off after.

Eggscape · 01-17-2021, 11:16 AM

That is great info!

I forgot to ask if anyone had a review of them.

I do have an idea stuffed away that I will test out.

h2owmn · 01-17-2021, 11:20 AM

Elegant in its simplicity! Another home-...er...Escape- run. And the tether, another great idea.

Bobbie54 · 01-17-2021, 11:22 AM

I haven't tried grease yet. Weirdly, the first time I used the Rhino hose I had no difficulty. The next two times I barely got it off. It is getting tighter, not looser. I was thinking of filing the connection points to try to make it loosen up but would try grease first if I were not afraid it would get stuck on.

Jealous of my friends' MH because they don't disconnect the hose. They cap it and it stays in the same compartment they open to access it.

Eggscape · 01-17-2021, 11:26 AM

On my trailer the tether was there. I just clipped off the plastic nub and installed a stainless steal screw. I also sanded some of the bumps off the cap so the handle would sit flat.

Eggscape · 02-04-2021, 06:38 PM

The short story...I replaced the broken sewer hose end with one made by Camco.

The details...Since I have more than one posting worth of pictures, I will do two posts starting with the product to be modified.

It is my opinion that if you are still using the factory sewer hose it is only a matter of time before the end prongs break like I have pointed out in my previous posts. Replacing the end or having a replacement on hand I think is a very good idea and well worth the money.

Hooking up your sewer hose to find that one of the hooks has unknowingly broken could mean a whole lot of (insert your own word here) when you pull the valve handle. One could only hope that it would break and come loose before the black tank was released.

I got this Camco product at Princess Auto for under $5 but it should also be available everywhere RV products are sold. There are 4 prongs, which is twice as many as the factory end and they are twice the thickness. The end that sticks into the tube also has a better barb to keep things sealed and the clamp from sliding off. If you undo the clamp all the way you can also give it a little bend as pictured. This will keep the excess tight to the tube and not sticking out. The end of the coupling is also longer which allow my next modification to be possible...

Eggscape · 02-05-2021, 11:45 AM

The short story...I have come up with two simple handle options so those in need can better operate the sewer coupler.

The details...I am sure this will be of limited interest to many but if you need help with the coupler due to arthritis in your hands, this could be an invaluable modification.

Option # 1 Removable Handle

The Camco sewer end has enough room between the barb and band clamp to drill a 3/8 hole and insert a screw that has 1 inch of thread. I say screw as I wanted a smooth head inside the coupler to allow flow and not a ruff bolt head. The screw I had on hand was a Philips head, but I recommend a simple slot head as it would allow a coin or bit of metal to hold it secure while tightening the nut. You could use a carriage bolt but that would require you to make the round hole square as to not stress the coupler.

Due to clearance around the dump pipe, the screw and handle needs be placed at the bottom of the coupler. This will allow the handle room enough to move and rotate the coupler. What is the bottom of the coupler you ask? It is the location of the coupler on the dump pipe that will allow the elbow on the other end of the hose to naturally point downward for dumping.

Across from where you place the screw there is one of 4 grip nubs that will have to be removed. This will allow the clearance required to stow the hose back into the tube holder. The screw is secured with a washer and nut or lock nut on the outside.

The removable handle is made from a “coupling nut” screwed onto a long bolt until there was no threads left. This made it tight and permanent. If the threads on your bolt are longer, you may have to add a nut and lock both together. Before assembly I added a bit of tubing, then covered everything with some optional heat shrink tubing.

The handle simply twists onto the coupling screw when you want to use it. When done the handle is removed and the hose fits back into the Escape sewer hose holder.

My next modification post will be option # 2. A quicker, simpler and flusher sewer hose handle.

Bobbie54 · 02-05-2021, 03:29 PM

I had a thought- since the issue I have is no room to turn, and it's too tight to do it without some torque, what about permanently adding a piece to extend it slightly out? I'm thinking of something like this though straight might be better. Then leave that part on and attach the hose to it.

Eggscape · 02-05-2021, 04:31 PM

That is a good idea as well. Something that allows the average person to grip both hands around the coupler which is difficult on my trailer because of the valves being in the way. Being clear you will also see if somebody has preloaded your pipe before you take off the cap.

That clear plastic type material does look like it could become crispy.
Way cheaper in the US of course...under $10 at Walmart.com.

Bobbie54 · 02-05-2021, 04:47 PM

Worth a try. I got the idea as my friends with a big MH just leave hoses attached and store in one of the lockers. It comes in various lengths so next time I have the trailer out I'll measure how long I'd need to give good clearance (unless someone with a 17b wants to do it now.)

Eggscape · 02-05-2021, 04:55 PM

You might even just want to replace that thin two prong sewer hose end with one of these.
It is longer and gives the average person some extra area to grip the long neck.
Might be a one stop shop to solve a few problems.
They look like they will fit into the holder tube as well.

Bobbie54 · 02-05-2021, 05:40 PM

I'm confused there, I thought that was the end that would go into the sewer/dump station opening.

Eggscape · 02-05-2021, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bobbie54

I'm confused there, I thought that was the end that would go into the sewer/dump station opening.

Both pictured would replace the end that attaches to the trailer. You can see the barb that keeps the hose clamp from sliding off.

Eggscape · 02-06-2021, 11:40 AM

The short story...A permanent sewer hose handle may be better suited for someone that has arthritis.

The details...A removable handle on the sewer coupler may work good but the thought of trying to screw on that handle at the last minute with fingers that don’t work well or are painful could be very daunting.

The handle construction uses a “Tee nut” inserted into the coupler with washers, nut and bolt forming the handle. The points on the Tee nut must be removed or folded back flush with the flange as to not split the coupler. The Tee nut fits better in the coupler if opposing sides of the flange are bent slightly. This is easily done using the bolt as a leaver. The shaft of the Tee nut that has the internal threads is longer than the coupler is thick. For the nut to tighten properly a few washers over the Tee nut shaft will be required. Starting with a hose washer for a seal, then a large washer followed by a lock washer. The final washer has the smaller inside diameter of the bolt.

The Tee nut makes for an almost flush connection inside the coupler but it will have to be painted to prevent it from rusting.

This option requires a minimum 3/8” slot to be cut into the sewer hose holder on the rear side above the lock tab. To cut the slot in the holder tube, first drill a 3/8” hole in the tube at the depth to which the handle will have to be inserted. Then cut in towards the hole on both sides to form the slot. This thickness of slot will do if you do not have the rubber tube over the handle full length. A full length rubber tube handle will require a wider slot.

This will allow the handle to stay attached to the coupler and be able to slide in and out of the sewer tube quicker.

I decided to put my slot up as high as I could to leave as much of the tube intact around the latch. It was much easier to work on the tube by removing the two frame screws on the other end and sliding the tube out. As for the slot itself, it does not appear at this time to have much effect on the tubes operation.

There are two bonus features that l have found using the handle. I now know if the coupler is attached to the trailer with the handle down that the elbow on the sewer end is also pointed down. (Although simple dot of paint on the coupler would solve that problem). Also I can use the handle to hold the sewer pipe into the tube holder while I shut the flap. No more pushing the end in with my fingers only have it spring out again.

Allan Bornestig · 02-06-2021, 12:31 PM

Hello Eggscape.
I installed that straight clear see trough attachment so I would not have to crawl to do the hose hookup.Left it on, can't remember if I glued it on.But it is good to see when things are running clear.Just have to be careful in rough camp grounds so it doesn't catch on anything.

Eggscape · 02-06-2021, 02:59 PM

I like the idea of that add on so it would be less wear and tear on the factory four little nubs. As long as I did not sheer off the whole thing because it was sticking out to much.

Patandlinda · 02-06-2021, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Allan Bornestig

Hello Eggscape.
I installed that straight clear see trough attachment so I would not have to crawl to do the hose hookup.Left it on, can't remember if I glued it on.But it is good to see when things are running clear.Just have to be careful in rough camp grounds so it doesn't catch on anything.

Hi Allan I leave mine on the hose now for about 8 years instead of the valve body . Pat

NEWYORKHILLBILLY · 02-20-2021, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eggscape

Short story...I installed a paper towel holder from Walmart that fits perfectly.

The details...This is great paper towel holder. It has a good looking finish and ratchets to allow one handed removal of sheets. I mounted it on the stud by the door so that it is acceptable from both the inside and outside.

Did you use any spacers behind the screws? I concerned that it will compress the vinyl so much that it may rip it over time. Any issues?

Eggscape · 02-20-2021, 03:39 PM

It has been installed for years now with no problems and I would do it again.

I did a little pushing on the vinyl and the location around the door frame is similar to around all windows in respect that it is only a single layer. The extra underlay insulation is not in this location and stops at the door frame as it does the wooden window frame supports.

Here is a picture I took today of the area.

NEWYORKHILLBILLY · 02-20-2021, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eggscape

It has been installed for years now with no problems and I would do it again.

I did a little pushing on the vinyl and the location around the door frame is similar to around all windows in respect that it is only a single layer. The extra underlay insulation is not in this location and stops at the door frame as it does the wooden window frame supports.

Here is a picture I took today of the area.

It look like it is holding up well. I will give it a try. Thanks

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