Modifications to Eggscape

[Great Eggstrications]

A great no-tools idea, but then all the tailgate-absconding scofflaw scum will start carrying a T-10 driver (or whatever fits) and unscrew the Torx-headed bolt (at least it looks like a mid-sized Torx, maybe not?). Perhaps try a "pin-in-star" Torx or hex, 2-hole security (uses a special tool), or even a "one-way" headed bolt. The guys at Bolt Depot (at least) used to have a good assortment. Maybe shop around...

[Centex]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

.... I've wondered several times what the replacement cost would be for the F150 tailgate with a camera.....

Likely well above any deductible.

As mentioned, if yours has a lock that's another great deterrent, just gotta get in the habit of using it even when the bed is empty (if that's not automatic when you lock the doors).

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Cheap insurance. I've wondered several times what the replacement cost would be for the F150 tailgate with a camera.

Around here a bigger danger is theft of your catalytic converter. Pickups are so easy to slide underneath. Not much you can do to prevent theft unless it's in a locked garage.

Ron

I can tell you in Portland, OR (in 2021) using the camera from the replaced tail gate, it was $1750

[Eggscape]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Cheap insurance. I've wondered several times what the replacement cost would be for the F150 tailgate with a camera.

Around here a bigger danger is theft of your catalytic converter. Pickups are so easy to slide underneath. Not much you can do to prevent theft unless it's in a locked garage.

Ron

You are right on that Ron…thanks to battery operated saws. That appears to be the criminals keys to the world.

[Great Eggstrications]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

You are right on that Ron…thanks to battery operated saws. That appears to be the criminals keys to the world.

Sadly so true. Catalytic converter theft is rampant around the Seattle area. The Nextdoor neighborhood forum has first-hand accounts of multiple thefts in just a few weeks - same vehicle, same outdoor location - 3 times in one case. Even cases of theft in public parking areas in broad daylight while owners are in stores for just minutes.

Local police departments are suggesting bright orange or red high-temp paint applied to the converter(s); not worth stealing since not worth scraping off the paint before selling as scrap. Have some VTH (very high temp) paint spray on the way from Mr. Bezos. It's actually a "Flameproof Coating" containing / based on some fancy-pants compound of some sort. Can be "cured" on place in vehicle:

Paint must be completely dry before curing
Run at idle for 10 minutes
Cool for 20 minutes
Run at idle for 20 minutes
Cool for 20 minute
Run under normal operating conditions for 30 minutes

https://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/v...eproof-coating

Get it while it's hot

[Eggscape]

Great idea…thanks for the link.
Just hope the thief is smart enough to realize before they remove it that they can’t sell it…

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

Great idea…thanks for the link.
Just hope the thief is smart enough to realize before they remove it that they can’t sell it…

Probably not. They’ll steal it anyway and then just throw it out.

[gbaglo]

It's the metals inside it that are valuable. I don't think a coat of paint will prevent theft. Police here now require scrap yards to get ID from sellers.

[Deva]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Probably not. They’ll steal it anyway and then just throw it out.

Just saw this as a catalytic converter theft deterrent on YouTube a couple of days ago. Not sure how effective it is, but it seems it would certainly slow thieves down a bit and make them consider moving on to something easier.


https://youtu.be/QTO75oX-dRc

[Eggscape]

Originally Posted by Deva

Just saw this as a catalytic converter theft deterrent on YouTube a couple of days ago. Not sure how effective it is, but it seems it would certainly slow thieves down a bit and make them consider moving on to something easier.


https://youtu.be/QTO75oX-dRc

Interesting product…however I would be cutting from the top down using my body weight instead of pushing up on the saw as it looks like this system is designed for.

Of course that video leads to a bunch of other videos and ideas on the subject.

[Eggscape]

The Short Story: I found that I could easily remove the top section of the tailgate handle to make for a solid umbrella mount.

The details: We found this large umbrella for sale on Facebook’s Market Place and I thought it would be good to have along camping. It has a sand screw so when the granddaughter is at the beach we have a little shade and don’t have to fry.

I like things to be dual purpose so I wanted to design a mount that allowed the umbrella to cover the tailgate should I need to use it as a work surface either camping or during another activities. That was a bit of a challenge with the tailgate open. I did notice the optional pull out handle on the tailgate and thought of ideas in which I could attach the umbrella to it. Simpler yet…a push of the yellow release button, with a pull up rather than the normal down, and the top section of the handle pulls right out. The umbrella fits right in at the perfect height without the lower pole section attached.

I tried another umbrella we have and it fits as well but it doesn’t have the ability to tip. If you have a smaller thin shaft umbrella, it would fit if you just removed the end yellow end cap. I also use a bungee cord to secure the umbrella in the post so it does not take flight across the roofs of nearby vehicles.

Now that I have almost finished building our daughters trailer I can get back to further modifications to Eggscape.

[gbaglo]

This works, and it's portable.

[Eggscape]

The umbrella only cost us $20 and the post isn’t as thick.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

the post isn’t as thick.

[HABBERDABBER]

Please post some pictures of your daughters trailer project. I'm interested in
your progress.

[Eggscape]

Will do…as soon as we get it out of the garage and there is a sunny day.

[Frisco Kid]

that's cool,, i'm going to try that... thanks!

[jennykatz]

Thanks for this thread

[Eggscape]

The short Story: I decided to get the Dometic stove offered by ETI to replace the recalled Suburban two burner stove top.

The Details: It was over a year to have Suburban recall their faulty stove that could leak propane from the underside and explode, causing bodily harm. I won’t go into the details here but if you are reading this in the future and your stove is a two burner Suburban, you want to make sure it was replaced with the model number 3031AST. If the model number on the bottom plate of the stove is SDS2SS…stop using it immediately. There are said to be over 800 of these time bombs that need to be replaced and I am sure a few will be missed.

It was nice that ETI arranged that we could purchase the Dometic two burner stove as a replacement/option, through them. For us it made sense. Most of the RV dealers in our area didn’t want any part of replacing the stove. And if they did it, would be November, as they are booking 6 months out. I guess there are a lot of RVs out there that need fixing. Suburban, of course, will not ship a replacement stove directly to the owner of the trailer. However, if you have replaced the stove already, they will get you to send it free of charge to a depot. Once there, they will send a check in the mail. Our check is being mailed as of the writing of this article.

In our 2018 May build, the Dometic does cover the hole the Suburban left and the Suburban came out very easy. As mentioned elsewhere, you just need to make the corners at right angles and not rounded for the Dometic to fit. Like others, I made the new corner cutouts so the the stove just fits snug. Precautions were taken in cutting the corners by using masking tape on the counter and the bottom of the saw.

Here is the tricky part. In our 2018, I had to cut the copper propane supply line shorter and re-do the flair on the end. This could be a problem for some but there is no reason you can’t get to this point. If you are uncomfortable making a flair then I would highly suggest that you take it to a qualified gas fitter. They are in many different industries including gas stoves and fireplaces. You may get a lot faster service than at an RV shop and it may get done by someone that makes these types of flairs all day long.

The trick to a good flair is the amount of tube sticking out of the clamp before you start flairing it. Too little and the nut will not grab correctly. Too much and it will not fit into the nut. Always good to do at least one test flair. Of course the usual soap test once it is all hooked up and I also used the electronic gas sensor as well.

The power connector for the sparker on the Dometic is a joke. Whoever designed that should be made to hook up a hundred or so. Unless you have 1 inch high screw driver you can’t tighten the screws unless you bend the bottom plate. Good news…it bends back. Don’t even try to hook the wires directly into this poorly placed connector. Make some short pig tails for the stove then join them together in a manner of your choosing.

What I also don’t like about the Dometic stove is the connection for the gas is at the back of the stove hidden behind the regulator, unlike the Suburban which is clearly visible up front. In the back makes it very difficult to get at and see properly.

The glass lid is different than the Suburban as it requires you to lift up on it before it will go down. I guess that is for people that like driving around with the stove lid up. Takes a bit of getting used to.

The four corner quick mounts of the Suburban are far superior to the two side mounting holes of the Dometic. The thin metal of the Dometic does not allow these two holes to seal the stove top to the counter.

Despite some extra non-removable white safety writing on the Dometic glass lid I do like the overall look…more so when it is open. The extra BTUs of the left burner is worth it alone, plus the larger grate.

Let’s hope the new model Suburban does not have the same loose nut problem as the previous model. I am not confident that they know the root of the problem and are blaming it on aluminum tubes. Steel tubes would have failed as well…just given a bit more time.

[Ron in BC]

Good job and good write-up.

There's one thing that I'd clarify. While I've done countless flare fittings over the years and once experienced to do them they're dead easy to do. I definitely would say to anyone with no previous experience to forget about trying it as their first time using a flare fitting tool. There's several other small things that can make a poor flare. So just because you can buy the tool at your local hardware store doesn't mean you should.

But an in between step rather than paying the minimum charge out for a gas fitter is to ask any friends if they have the tool and could do the flare for you. It's a pretty common item in a lot of tool boxes.

Ron