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Old 11-26-2018, 12:08 PM   #81
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What type/kind of 12v bulbs are you using in this light? Same as the captain lights with prongs?
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Old 11-26-2018, 01:12 PM   #82
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Bulb types

Yes it is the same two thin pin style.

Many people are not that familiar with these styles of bulbs so I will show a few pictures.

The one on the left is a incandescent 12 volt bulb that is found in lighting fixtures that have a transformer built into the light somewhere to reduce the household voltage down to 12 volts.

In the middle is the 12 volt LED light I like to use and is a direct replacement for the first light. Even if you are not going to make your own lights, you might want to check around the house to see if you want to change over to these.

The light on the right is the same diameter as the first two but runs off of household power directly. This too is an incandescent bulb and there are LED bulbs available for it as well to save power at home. Note the different pin style and socket.

So there are a wide variety of fixtures you can select from that take the same diameter bulb. You just may have to change the socket on the right for the 12 volt pin type on the left.
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Old 11-26-2018, 03:18 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggscape View Post
Yes it is the same two thin pin style.

Many people are not that familiar with these styles of bulbs so I will show a few pictures.

The one on the left is a incandescent 12 volt bulb that is found in lighting fixtures that have a transformer built into the light somewhere to reduce the household voltage down to 12 volts.

In the middle is the 12 volt LED light I like to use and is a direct replacement for the first light.
These look like they might have the G5.3 or GX5.3 base. The "5.3" indicates that the pins are spaced 5.3 millimetres on centre.

The whole lamp looks like the common MR16 format - multifaceted reflector bulb, 16/8ths of an inch (2") in diameter.

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Originally Posted by Eggscape View Post
The light on the right is the same diameter as the first two but runs off of household power directly. This too is an incandescent bulb and there are LED bulbs available for it as well to save power at home. Note the different pin style and socket.
This looks like a GU10 base. These bases are twist-lock, and the number indicates the size (10 mm pin spacing on centre).

The base code (G4, GU5.3, GX5.3, GU10, etc) is normally shown on packaging and listed in online descriptions, so it is useful when shopping for compatible components. There are standard applications for these bases, including specific operating voltages (e.g. G4 is for 6 to 12 V, GX5.3 is for 12 to 24V, G10 is for 120 to 230 V).
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Old 11-26-2018, 04:06 PM   #84
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Thanks Brian
That may make it easier for people to get the correct bulb.
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Old 11-26-2018, 10:24 PM   #85
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Home Depot or Lowe's both usually carries these LED lights, got them last summer to replace my hot halogen spots in the cabin kitchen.
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Old 11-26-2018, 10:48 PM   #86
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Yes you are correct...they are widely available.
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:34 PM   #87
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Stabalizer pads for Eggscape

The short story...For under $10 your trailer can have happy feet too.

The details...My last trailer stabiliser legs had round metal feet on the bottom so when I saw my Escape, I thought something was missing. They could not possibly think that the small wedge shape of the leg was going to do anything but sink into the sand, dirt or gravel.

I looked on the internet to find the steal pads I think will fit my 2018 at $30 a pair on Amazon.ca ...so $60 plus tax. Cheap enough I guess, but way over priced for what you get.

In the shop I could have welded up something unique, posted pictures and nobody other than welders could make it. How interesting, fun or useful would that have been? Instead I thought long and hard to come up with a simple design that everyone can build. Sometimes it is the simplest designs that take the most time to develop. How could the average person attach a vertical tab, with a 5/16 bolt hole, to a horizontal plate.

The important thing to remember is that the bolt and screw eyes do not hold up the trailer. The only thing they do is lift the foot off the ground. When the pad touches the ground you should still be able to turn the bolt with your fingers. The bolt fits loose in the leg, with the hole provided from the factory. The bolt should also fit loose in the screw eyes you select. All this looseness provides the movement that the leg needs to sit directly on the plywood with very little pressure on the hardware.

I used plywood squares cut 6 inches by 6 inches. I picked that size because it fits nicely in the popular yellow stacking pads. You could use a variety of plastic type materials instead of the plywood or use the yellow stacking pads upside down (smooth surface up) filling the two squares the screw eye threads end up in with epoxy. If you have a set of these yellow stacking pads the last sentence will make sense to you.

Finding heavy duty screw eyes are the key to the longevity of the pad. You must be able to pass a 5/16 bolt through the hole with room to move. The length of the threads on the screw eye will determine the thickness of the plywood, so the threads do not pop through the bottom.

I did not source out the screw eye as I had some in stock. I did check a few hardware stores in Canada for the 5/16 by 4 inch bolts and found Princess Auto to be the cheapest.

I drilled two pilot holes in the plywood for the screw eyes to thread into. You can stick a Phillips screw driver through the eye to rotate/screw the eye all the way into the foot. When you put the bolt through both eyes, the bolt head should just be able to rotate without hitting the plywood base. I used semi-gloss, black paint but you could also use rubberized undercoating.
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:51 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggscape View Post
The short story...For under $10 your trailer can have happy feet too.

The details...My last trailer stabiliser legs had round metal feet on the bottom so when I saw my Escape, I thought something was missing. They could not possibly think that the small wedge shape of the leg was going to do anything but sink into the sand, dirt or gravel.

I looked on the internet to find the steal pads I think will fit my 2018 at $30 a pair on Amazon.ca ...so $60 plus tax. Cheap enough I guess, but way over priced for what you get.

In the shop I could have welded up something unique, posted pictures and nobody other than welders could make it. How interesting, fun or useful would that have been? Instead I thought long and hard to come up with a simple design that everyone can build. Sometimes it is the simplest designs that take the most time to develop. How could the average person attach a vertical tab, with a 5/16 bolt hole, to a horizontal plate.

The important thing to remember is that the bolt and screw eyes do not hold up the trailer. The only thing they do is lift the foot off the ground. When the pad touches the ground you should still be able to turn the bolt with your fingers. The bolt fits loose in the leg, with the hole provided from the factory. The bolt should also fit loose in the screw eyes you select. All this looseness provides the movement that the leg needs to sit directly on the plywood with very little pressure on the hardware.

I used plywood squares cut 6 inches by 6 inches. I picked that size because it fits nicely in the popular yellow stacking pads. You could use a variety of plastic type materials instead of the plywood or use the yellow stacking pads upside down (smooth surface up) filling the two squares the screw eye threads end up in with epoxy. If you have a set of these yellow stacking pads the last sentence will make sense to you.

Finding heavy duty screw eyes are the key to the longevity of the pad. You must be able to pass a 5/16 bolt through the hole with room to move. The length of the threads on the screw eye will determine the thickness of the plywood, so the threads do not pop through the bottom.

I did not source out the screw eye as I had some in stock. I did check a few hardware stores in Canada for the 5/16 by 4 inch bolts and found Princess Auto to be the cheapest.

I drilled two pilot holes in the plywood for the screw eyes to thread into. You can stick a Phillips screw driver through the eye to rotate/screw the eye all the way into the foot. When you put the bolt through both eyes, the bolt head should just be able to rotate without hitting the plywood base. I used semi-gloss, black paint but you could also use rubberized undercoating.
Very nice solution! We bought and installed the metal plates but we were able to get them a lot cheaper , thank goodness . Later got tired installing the same yellow blocks under so ending attaching permanently to bottom of metal plates . Like you thought something was missing the way we got from the factory . Pat
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Old 11-28-2018, 10:06 PM   #89
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My trailer came with square metal plates attached. It seems like I remember being asked if I wanted them but I don’t see it listed on my build sheet.
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Old 11-28-2018, 10:31 PM   #90
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My trailer came with square metal plates attached. It seems like I remember being asked if I wanted them but I don’t see it listed on my build sheet.


They call them “sand pads”. I paid CAN$50 last year to ETI for a set.
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Old 11-30-2018, 09:07 PM   #91
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Hidden security switch for tongue jack

The short story...I added a disconnect switch to my powered tongue jack to make the trailer more difficult to steal.

The details...I installed a power tongue jack that was on sale at Princess Auto for aprox $110. When doing so, I also installed a hidden switch in the power line to shut off the power when I was not using it. I figure it is just another aid in anti-theft. I can’t imagine how frustrating it would be for a thief to find they could not raise or lower the trailer onto their vehicle.

I decided to get power from the junction box located on the drivers side under the tongue. While in there I noticed just enough space to install a switch.
I purchased the switch from Princes Auto https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...ch/A-p0700284e and it fit nicely. You will notice in the picture that the right terminal of the switch is not insulated and very close to the black ended stud. That is because it is the power source and connected via a wire to that terminal on the switch. The photo is a dark so I highlighted this wire. The other terminal on the switch is double insulated and goes to the jack with an in-line fuse.

The switch is out of sight but still convenient. Other options would be to have it stick out the bottom of a battery box. Depending on the size of battery, there should be some room to one side. If you have a storage box you could also put a switch like this inside
https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...ch/A-p8743858e and power a light on the lid. When you powered the light it could also power the jack. If a thief made it into your box, they would just think they had found a light switch.
(This last cheaper switch with or without the plate would be good to use for the jack however it might be too thick to use it in the junction box.

This just maybe the tipping point to justify a power jack.

The red line is the wire from the 12 volt post to the switch. The yellow line is power out to the jack from the switch.
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File Type: jpg D886571E-0494-4C87-B3D9-3BB2B5205C3B.jpg (175.5 KB, 50 views)
File Type: jpeg 18B9ABCE-664E-4503-8BD8-E606FA51BF15.jpeg (138.5 KB, 50 views)
File Type: jpg 5B1E3817-6905-40B4-B64E-88D4274B873B.jpg (223.5 KB, 36 views)
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Old 12-02-2018, 10:03 PM   #92
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The short story...I made a gap cover for the end of the bench seat.

The details...I noticed in our trailer there is a gap where you can see the lid the seat sits on. Depending how and where you sit on the seat the end can curl up exposing more. Even though I detailed the bench lids by filling, sanding and painting...it is not something that I want to see. I think the final product adds a bit of visual thickness to the seat making it look a little better than just the 4 inch foam.

I spray glued some thin foam for some cush factor over a 3 inch wide peice of plywood, then applied the seat material. The new cover is held on from the back side with three screws and star nuts inserted before covering. It sticks up from the bench only 1.5 inches so that when my wife hangs her legs over the end it does not interfere. The foam does not wrap entirely around. It stops where the new cover meets the bench to allow for a secure fit. The material however wraps completely around with the seam hidden between the new cover and the bench.

When we ordered our trailer I also ordered some extra material to do the poor mans U shape dinette and a head board. Some of you might have material left over from your custom cushions or you may want ETI to bring you some material to the Escape camp out.
Of course the gap cover could also be made from Oak.

Here are some pictures of both the front and the rear of the cover.
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Old 12-02-2018, 11:15 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggscape View Post
The short story...I made a gap cover for the end of the bench seat.

The details...I noticed in our trailer there is a gap where you can see the lid the seat sits on. Depending how and where you sit on the seat the end can curl up exposing more. Even though I detailed the bench lids by filling, sanding and painting...it is not something that I want to see. I think the final product adds a bit of visual thickness to the seat making it look a little better than just the 4 inch foam.

I spray glued some thin foam for some cush factor over a 3 inch wide peice of plywood, then applied the seat material. The new cover is held on from the back side with three screws and star nuts inserted before covering. It sticks up from the bench only 1.5 inches so that when my wife hangs her legs over the end it does not interfere. The foam does not wrap entirely around. It stops where the new cover meets the bench to allow for a secure fit. The material however wraps completely around with the seam hidden between the new cover and the bench.

When we ordered our trailer I also ordered some extra material to do the poor mans U shape dinette and a head board. Some of you might have material left over from your custom cushions or you may want ETI to bring you some material to the Escape camp out.
Of course the gap cover could also be made from Oak.

Here are some pictures of both the front and the rear of the cover.
Very nice !Pat
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Old 12-03-2018, 12:21 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by Eggscape View Post
The short story...I added a disconnect switch to my powered tongue jack to make the trailer more difficult to steal.

The details...I installed a power tongue jack that was on sale at Princess Auto for aprox $110. When doing so, I also installed a hidden switch in the power line to shut off the power when I was not using it. I figure it is just another aid in anti-theft. I can’t imagine how frustrating it would be for a thief to find they could not raise or lower the trailer onto their vehicle.

I decided to get power from the junction box located on the drivers side under the tongue. While in there I noticed just enough space to install a switch.
I purchased the switch from Princes Auto https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...ch/A-p0700284e and it fit nicely. You will notice in the picture that the right terminal of the switch is not insulated and very close to the black ended stud. That is because it is the power source and connected via a wire to that terminal on the switch. The photo is a dark so I highlighted this wire. The other terminal on the switch is double insulated and goes to the jack with an in-line fuse.

The switch is out of sight but still convenient. Other options would be to have it stick out the bottom of a battery box. Depending on the size of battery, there should be some room to one side. If you have a storage box you could also put a switch like this inside
https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...ch/A-p8743858e and power a light on the lid. When you powered the light it could also power the jack. If a thief made it into your box, they would just think they had found a light switch.
(This last cheaper switch with or without the plate would be good to use for the jack however it might be too thick to use it in the junction box.

This just maybe the tipping point to justify a power jack.

The red line is the wire from the 12 volt post to the switch. The yellow line is power out to the jack from the switch.
Good idea! I like it.

Chuck
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Old 12-03-2018, 01:09 PM   #95
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Thanks...a lot more modifications still to be written up.
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Old 12-03-2018, 10:55 PM   #96
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I will need to do this one as well.... lots of extra fabric. Thanks for the idea!
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Old 12-04-2018, 12:03 AM   #97
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Save some fabric for the two section tilting head board coming this spring.
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Old 12-04-2018, 12:28 AM   #98
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Motorized, with remote, I presume?
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Old 12-04-2018, 12:57 AM   #99
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Motorized, with remote, I presume?
No, it will be simple and quickly removable so you can still get the mattress up and out in the confines of the 19.
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Old 12-05-2018, 01:56 PM   #100
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Hidden rear wiring speaker trough in upper cabinet

I am getting ready to install my rear speakers and found this handy wiring trough/runway along the front upper inside edge of the 2018 19 rear upper cabinet. If you cup your fingers inside the edge you will feel the gutter like area. In the middle it turns into a tunnel to keep the wires in place. Perfect to run any wires out of sight from side to side. The picture shows a wire going the length of the tunnel.
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