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Old 12-20-2018, 06:41 PM   #141
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Originally Posted by Eggscape View Post
Well I won’t “string” you along much longer and if you can’t strike a “cord” with those clues, my next post will be the answer.
You got rid of the plastic string holders for the blinds so they don’t poke you in the upper back when seated at your new front seat.

Do I win a prize?
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Old 12-20-2018, 07:09 PM   #142
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DING...DING...DING

We have a winner.

Prize? let’s see...what about a full set of plastic blind standoffs...or what I like to call Pesky Plastic Protrusions. You just need to come and pick them up.


I am not sure about all Escapes but my 2018 model 19 does not need them for the blinds to function. I will post the details in the next few posts.

The 5 Easter Eggs are circled in red.
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Old 12-20-2018, 07:34 PM   #143
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No more Pigtails and Pesky Plastic Protrusions for Eggscape

The short story...Something had to be done about the ”Backstabbers” as some people call them. Here is a simple fix that anybody can do.

The details...The first time I stepped into an Escape and looked at the blinds with the excess cord and clear plastic protrusion I thought there must be a better way. Luckily for everyone, there is. This is my festive season modification gift to all of you...enjoy.

My first thought was to see how I could reduce the amount the clear plastic protusion actually needed to stand out from the window frame. I looked at just using the mushroom end cap but that could not be done easily as it required at least part of the shaft to trap the cord. Moving on, I threaded each cord directly though the holes the screws were in and clamped them at the back just to see how bad the clearance was while pulling the blind down. To my surprise the blind could be raised and lowered without hitting the window frame! How could this be? Of course, if you push the lower bar towards the window you can make it rub but if you pull it down normally or with a slight pull towards you, all is fine. If you need just a bit more clearance you can also bend out the black wings however don’t do it too much or the lower blind bar may not fit behind the big black knob.

I started by using a rubber grommet in the hole to protect the cord from any unforeseen wear. Here is where the real thinking began. I needed to devise a way to secure the cord on the backside of the hole. I first tried putting a small washer over the cord and then a knot so both would not pull through the rubber grommet. This works but it is difficult to get just the right tension. The first knot is easy but the last knot on the other side tensions the whole blind and is a bear to do. I needed to think of something that anyone could purchase that would grab the cord at the rear and allow it to be easily adjusted.

As I have said before, sometimes it takes a lot of thought and engineering to come up with the simplest solution. So, here it is...just loosen off the two screws and trap the cord between the triangle plate and the window frame. Voila...nothing to buy and completely adjustable. I have left a little bit of cord visible and (drawn) a line in one of the pictures to demonstrate the cord location at the rear.

This entrapment method is what I used on all my windows and it seems to be holding. However you may want to try some spring loaded cord clamps. If you wrap the cord a few times around and through the holes it should hold up. (Your choice of retaining methods) I have included a link in my next post.

The front window being a non dual pane unit was different from the rest. Rather than being two flat surfaces to trap the cord, the frame has an inner and outer rib. I found a knot at the end of the cord fit nicely between the ribs and secured the cord better.

I started with the small kitchen window where the single cord on each side could be threaded through the rubber grommet easily. I then moved onto the rear windows and found they had two cords on each side. Both cords would not go through the small rubber grommet. You might have heard the saying...it is tough to push a rope. If you want to use rubber grommets on the twin cords you’re going to have to drill the holes larger and use bigger grommets.

I did not want to have everybody redrill the holes but still need to smooth them out. More thinking and I came up with an eyelet. Just so happens I had some black ones in a standard size which fits the 3/16 hole perfectly. Because your putting it in a metal hole you only need to use one part of a two part eyelet. The backer ring is not required. To install you will need an eyelet plier or something cone shape to flatten the back. All craft or hobby stores should have the right tool and eyelets, but if not I have included a link for a plier and enough eyelets for you to get it right.

I left the kitchen window with the rubber grommets installed as a long term test. They are easy to install if the hole is the correct size and are real soft on the cord. Depending on the rubber grommet quality these days I am not sure how they will hold up long term. The other 12 holes I used eyelets as a majority of the windows had the two cords on each side. They install easy in the factory hole with the proper tool. (Again your choice of protection)

My next post has some notes to consider, the procedure and links.

Cheers
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Old 12-20-2018, 07:38 PM   #144
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Pigtails and Pesky Plastic Protrusions part 2

Notables:

I trapped the cord to the side so it has less of a cutting action on the rubber grommet than if it were vertical. You should be able to trap all the cord without cutting it as you may want adjustment in the future. Tape two cords together so they can be better managed when trapping. The amount of tension determines how easy the blind is to raise and lower and if it stays up when the trailer is in motion. The trapped cord should not slip but if you find it does...put double side tape on the back side of some sand paper then stick it to the window frame or plate. Trap the cord in the sand paper area. The procedure is fully reversible, so mark the cord with a pencil or tape just above the factory knot before you undo it in case you are not fully satisfied with the outcome.

The procedure:

First raise and lower the blind to get a feel of the operational tension. You may or may not want to match the factory tension.

Raise the blind and clamp one cord at the top.

Remove the clear plastic tower below the clamped cord and separate the mushroom cap from the shaft. This releases the cord, mark with a pencil the factory location of the knot. Pick a part the knot with a large needle or pin.

Insert a grommet in the hole or the eyelet (your choice) and crimp, place cord or taped cords through the grommet or eyelet.

Loosen the two screws holding the triangle plate and run the cord horizontal between the frame and plate. It is at this point you make sure the cord is at the tension you want. With your fingers holding the cord behind you can run the blind up and down a few times. Make it easy on yourself and the blind and don’t do it up too tight. The worst that will happen is you will have to raise the blinds when you stop to camp.

Hold the cord so you can’t see it but that it gets trapped when the screws are tighten. It is best to point the cord towards one of the screws to achieve the best grip. You will strip the screw hole before you can over tighten it so don’t get carried away. If you do strip the hole, point the cord at the other screw.

Remove the clamp and repeat on other side. If the action to raise or lower the blind is not correct, hold the cord behind one of the plates, undo the two screws, adjust the cord tension accordingly.


Here are a few links if you need them. Allow 30 to 60 days for items to arrive.

Rubber grommet kit. 180Pcs/lot Black Rubber Grommets 8 Popular Sizes Retaining Ring Set Blanking Hole Wiring Cable Gasket Kits Hardware Tools-in Grommets from Home Improvement on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

Eyelet tool and eyelets. Grommet Button Eyelet Setting Cloth Shoe Bag Plier Leather Belt Canvas Household Pincer Setter Rivet Snap fastener Hand Tool Car-in Punching from Home & Garden on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

Plastic retainers. 12pcs Plastic Cord Lock Bean Toggle Clip Stopper Black 25mmx23mm Sportswear Garment Bags Rope Parts Accessories-in Stopper from Home & Garden on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
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Old 12-21-2018, 08:27 AM   #145
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Nicely done
I have been thinking about those back stabbers, and now have a solution

Thanks for sharing
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Old 12-25-2018, 04:08 PM   #146
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A little less Paisley for Eggscape

The short story...I found the design of the rearward section of the side graphics to be a little much for me, so I removed the lower swish.

The details...I will start by saying it is fantastic that ETI allows us to pick the colour of the side graphics from the chart or not even have them at all. When I first started looking at Escapes I thought the different colours must be for different years or models. I would have never guessed that they would allow the buyer to select the colour. Of course you find out that this is only one of many ways ETI let’s you personalize your trailer.

I always found the rear section of the side graphics was a little too paisley like for me. I am not a fan of paisley and once I had that in my mind something had to change. I ended up lightening up the look by removing the lower swish on each side. This was a good enough change for me.

You can search and find many videos on how to remove graphics with a heat gun/hair dryer. Just keep in mind that if your trailer is old that the area under the decal may not have faded and could be a different white.

I realize that this is a lame modification but it may be just the idea you need if your not in love with all the rear swishes or no graphics at all.
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Old 12-26-2018, 10:01 AM   #147
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Them cord clips are gone before our next excursion! Way to go!
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Old 01-02-2019, 04:54 PM   #148
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A little “STUGVIK” for Eggscape

The short story...You can use an IKEA towel bar or hook to provide support to the shower hose. The removable bin is also a great product that fits in a 2018.

The details...It is not a new idea to use the “STUGVIK” line of IKEA bathroom accessories to outfit your Escape with hole free products that suction to the wall. But I would like to share with you what I have done.

First I utilized one side of the towel bar to provide support to the shower hose so that it minimizes the stress on the plastic pipe inside the tap. Two plastic ties and I was done. This was functional but I did not like the non traditional look of the towel rack extending over the sink.

There is also a hook product that they make and it fits perfectly behind the hose. It is reasonably priced and comes in a two pack. I drilled two holes in the side of one hook to accommodate the tie straps and the mod was done.

I also purchased the bin they sell and it fits perfectly between the toilet and the wall. It is really well built and can slide up and off the two hooks. We move the bin with its contents to the kitchen sink while we shower. We keep cleaners in it that we would not want to leak in a cupboard. It also restrains the shower curtain into the corner. I installed 4 clear rubberish feet on the bottom so the bin sits on the Fiberglass. This provides air flow under it and takes any downward weight off the two suction brackets.

I really like the STUGVIK products for their no hole, flexible design and reasonable price.
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Old 01-02-2019, 06:16 PM   #149
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The short story...You can use an IKEA towel bar or hook to provide support to the shower hose. The removable bin is also a great product that fits in a 2018.

The details...It is not a new idea to use the “STUGVIK” line of IKEA bathroom accessories to outfit your Escape with hole free products that suction to the wall. But I would like to share with you what I have done.

First I utilized one side of the towel bar to provide support to the shower hose so that it minimizes the stress on the plastic pipe inside the tap. Two plastic ties and I was done. This was functional but I did not like the non traditional look of the towel rack extending over the sink.

There is also a hook product that they make and it fits perfectly behind the hose. It is reasonably priced and comes in a two pack. I drilled two holes in the side of one hook to accommodate the tie straps and the mod was done.

I also purchased the bin they sell and it fits perfectly between the toilet and the wall. It is really well built and can slide up and off the two hooks. We move the bin with its contents to the kitchen sink while we shower. We keep cleaners in it that we would not want to leak in a cupboard. It also restrains the shower curtain into the corner. I installed 4 clear rubberish feet on the bottom so the bin sits on the Fiberglass. This provides air flow under it and takes any downward weight off the two suction brackets.

I really like the STUGVIK products for their no hole, flexible design and reasonable price.
Great idea's making it your own ! Question where did you get the the soap dispenser if I may ask ? Pat
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Old 01-02-2019, 07:38 PM   #150
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It is another STUGVIK product from IKEA.

I was originally just looking for a soap dish then ran across the STUGVIK display and all hell broke loose. I had to go get a bag and start filling it.

They also make a smaller bin/cup for toothpaste and brushes as well as a mirror. However I can’t find the mirror on the web page.

The squeegee is used to quickly wipe down excess water from the shower walls.
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Old 01-02-2019, 09:10 PM   #151
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They also make a smaller bin/cup for toothpaste and brushes as well as a mirror. However I can’t find the mirror on the web page.
I believe this is the mirror, but it is not available online. It appears to have limited stock in stores.
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50297008/
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Old 01-02-2019, 09:30 PM   #152
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It is another STUGVIK product from IKEA.

I was originally just looking for a soap dish then ran across the STUGVIK display and all hell broke loose. I had to go get a bag and start filling it.

They also make a smaller bin/cup for toothpaste and brushes as well as a mirror. However I can’t find the mirror on the web page.

The squeegee is used to quickly wipe down excess water from the shower walls.
Thankyou !Pat
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Old 01-02-2019, 10:10 PM   #153
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I believe this is the mirror, but it is not available online. It appears to have limited stock in stores.
https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50297008/
That’s it.
I like the mirror and it is a good fit for that spot right under the light. However it is made for a stationary application and can swing a bit. I will be removing some plastic bits on the backside and attaching it with double sided tape.
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Old 01-03-2019, 06:16 AM   #154
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I have several STUGVIK products in Ten Forward. I can see I'll be adding several more! Thanks for posting the pics Ed
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Old 01-03-2019, 12:09 PM   #155
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As Jim Bennett demonstrated at the Boler 50th they can be used on the outside of the trailer as well. Great for hanging the tea towel in the sun to dry or maybe that welcome sign out front. It is only rated at 4 pounds so don’t expect the hook to hold a long clothesline, dog or small child.
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Old 01-03-2019, 09:14 PM   #156
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The short story...I welded some square tubing to the rear bumper and got both mast sockets and bumperettes.

The details... I always like when one project or item can serve dual purpose. It just makes it that much more worthwhile in time, cost and weight saving.

As my wife and I are both Amateur Radio Operator (Hams) I like to be able to keep in contact with the outside world. Many of the areas we go and camp here in BC are remote and doesn’t have cellphone coverage. I like to keep my radio tuned to a useful frequency in the area should we or a fellow camper need emergency medical help. Generally speaking the higher you can get your antenna the better chance of that happening. Others may like the mount for a wifi or flag pole.

I searched my stock of square tubing and could not find any with the correct inside dimension to house my 3 section, 22 foot, fiberglass mast with a 1.75 inch dia lower section. I ended up going to a local metal supplier who was happy to cut and sell to the public. He cut to length two perfect pieces for a very reasonable price. He also nipped out two metal squares which I later hand cut diagonally into four braces.

I welded each tube to the inside corner of both sides of the frame. They hang down below the bumper just enough to reveal two holes that I drilled into the sides of the tubing. This allows me the option to hoist the mast up another 1.75 feet and slide in a pin to keep it higher. Due to the height of the mast and antenna that I am using, I also added triangular braces.

I have two masts, if operations require more antennas at events or emergencies. However, I carry just one when we are camping. The two mounts allow me to select the best one to stay clear of any trees or over head wires. The license plate holder had to be moved a tad due to the size and height of my mount. If you are just using a smaller telescoping painters pole for a wifi mast, your mount need not be as high to interfere with the plate. If you’re only thinking of one mount, I would suggest the passenger side, as the trees in the center of a camp site might be less that at the edge. Even with the large diameter of my masts, it clears the belly band and I can still open both of my rear awning windows.
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Old 01-03-2019, 10:02 PM   #157
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Super idea.
I have neither a welder nor the skills to operate one if I did, but I can get a length of PVC or galvanized pipe of the appropriate I/D and easily secure it to the bumper with two U bolts or all-thread bent to fit. . So that’s what I’ll do to hold my planned cell phone antenna.

Thanks
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Old 01-03-2019, 11:15 PM   #158
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I saw these at an RV show and they seem very easy to setup for an antenna pole. Probably will try one out for the rear hitch.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Flagpol...ag+pole+holder
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Old 01-03-2019, 11:25 PM   #159
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I saw these at an RV show and they seem very easy to setup for an antenna pole. Probably will try one out for the rear hitch.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Flagpol...ag+pole+holder
Great for the trailer or vehicle for years to come.
You can also put a patio umbrella in it when it is attached to your vehicle. Depending on the design of the umbrella it could make a great ground plane for a whip...
Depending on how tight it fits in your hitch it could wiggle a bit.
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Old 01-04-2019, 05:53 AM   #160
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Nice work there Ed,
Curious, where do you keep your spare now?
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