Modifications to Eggscape

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Curious, where do you keep your spare now?

Under the front tongue. See his solution here:
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...tml#post271332

[ATHiker]

Originally Posted by Greg A

I saw these at an RV show and they seem very easy to setup for an antenna pole. Probably will try one out for the rear hitch.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Flagpol...ag+pole+holder

I use one of these and a flag pole. I mount my Jack tv antenna to the pole when needed, otherwise I fly the flag...

[Eggscape]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Under the front tongue. See his solution here:
http://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f8...tml#post271332

Great memory Dave!

Yes it fits perfectly under the tongue. I will be writing up all my tongue related modifications soon.

[Eggscape]

The short story...Another repurposed light but this time using the factory LED Strip.

The details...I found this great little new 120 volt light at Restore for over our Escape sink. This time I installed the factory LED plus two clear/white LEDs and one blue LED. I also installed a spare switch for a future project. To keep everything in place there are a few daps of hot glue.

When I disassembled the factory light I found that the thermal grease was not evenly and completely spread over the entire LED backing plate. This could lead to overheating and premature failure of the light. Thermal grease is used to fill the pours in the metals and allow the heat to transfer to the heat sink. The heat sink is the oval metal backer, which will get hot by drawing the heat away from the LED. Use something to spread the thermal grease as you don’t want it filling the pours on your finger. Thermal grease comes in different containers and I have included a link to one.
High Conductivity Thermal Heatsinks Grease Paste Tin 20g Heat Dissipation Silicone Fluid In Bulk Cooling Cooler for Computer CPU-in Fans & Cooling from Computer & Office on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

I also replaced the two lights under the dinette cabinets with glass and stainless steel units...but enough with the lights...you get the idea.

[Eggscape]

The short story...I removed the front dinette, installed a partial floor 6 inches higher, moved the power panel over the waste tank, then reinstalled the benches on top.

The details...We are not short people at 5-10 but sitting in the dinette of a 19 without a raised floor was just not acceptable to us. I understand the benches are low and the windows are high in order to be able to mount the removable bunk, but from what I have read the bunk is a rare option. In my opinion the raised floor should be standard and if you get the bunk then you can put up without the rise and live with the low benches. I am not off the soap box yet...if you’re going to offer a raised floor, then let’s make it worth the money at twice the height so you are looking out of the center of the windows.

For us the magic number for the floor to be raised was 6 inches. This allows the bathroom door to still open fully above the floor and our classic Colman stove to fit under the new floor. It also gives us the perfect sight lines out the windows and shoe storage under the front edge. At this height the power panel can also be moved over the waste tank and not hang in the air over the original location.

When you look at the attached pictures you will know if your skills are such that you can do the project. I will just touch on a few of the highlights or this post could go on for pages.

One of the hardest things was to confirm the floor height so that the power panel would fit over the tank and still allow the table to be put into bed mode. It was not as simple as just plopping it on top of the tank if you’re working with limited bench panelling. Another was refitting all the panelling together because as you move the benches up they also move away from the front wall that slopes out. If you’re going to do this project it would be much easier to get a 4 ft x 4 ft sheet of panelling from Escape.

The raised floor is open on the end to allow 6 pairs of shoes to be placed underneath. There is a cross trailer floor support at the toe area which keeps the shoes from sliding too far forward. This support would be good enough but to help it out I add a turnbuckle support that you can see in picture 6. A turnbuckle is perfect for this job as you can add a couple of feet and expand it to fit exactly between a pair of shoes. There is another cross trailer floor support at the front of the trailer. Not only does the area under the floor allow for some great and long storage, but it also makes the area inside the benches deeper.

Much of our under floor storage is accessed by an outside hatch on the passenger side. Without a new hatch you could leave the end open into the trailer and run the floor supports front to rear directly under the bench walls. An under bed style bin with the little wheels on one end could slide under the new floor loaded with shoes or even better...wine...as in a wine cellar.

The floor was cut from one sheet of plywood with enough left over for the floor and seat supports as well as a new smaller table. The table leg was secured with bolts through the floor and not just screws.

Modifying your trailer to sit higher is not a new idea. If you search the forum you can find out how others have achieved the the same goal.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

The short story...I removed the front dinette, installed a partial floor 6 inches higher, moved the power panel over the waste tank, then reinstalled the benches on top.

The details...We are not short people at 5-10 but sitting in the dinette of a 19 without a raised floor was just not acceptable to us. I understand the benches are low and the windows are high in order to be able to mount the removable bunk, but from what I have read the bunk is a rare option. In my opinion the raised floor should be standard and if you get the bunk then you can put up without the rise and live with the low benches. I am not off the soap box yet...if you’re going to offer a raised floor, then let’s make it worth the money at twice the height so you are looking out of the center of the windows.

For us the magic number for the floor to be raised was 6 inches. This allows the bathroom door to still open fully above the floor and our classic Colman stove to fit under the new floor. It also gives us the perfect sight lines out the windows and shoe storage under the front edge. At this height the power panel can also be moved over the waste tank and not hang in the air over the original location.

When you look at the attached pictures you will know if your skills are such that you can do the project. I will just touch on a few of the highlights or this post could go on for pages.

One of the hardest things was to confirm the floor height so that the power panel would fit over the tank and still allow the table to be put into bed mode. It was not as simple as just plopping it on top of the tank if you’re working with limited bench panelling. Another was refitting all the panelling together because as you move the benches up they also move away from the front wall that slopes out. If you’re going to do this project it would be much easier to get a 4 ft x 4 ft sheet of panelling from Escape.

The raised floor is open on the end to allow 6 pairs of shoes to be placed underneath. There is a cross trailer floor support at the toe area which keeps the shoes from sliding too far forward. This support would be good enough but to help it out I add a turnbuckle support that you can see in picture 6. A turnbuckle is perfect for this job as you can add a couple of feet and expand it to fit exactly between a pair of shoes. There is another cross trailer floor support at the front of the trailer. Not only does the area under the floor allow for some great and long storage, but it also makes the area inside the benches deeper.

Much of our under floor storage is accessed by an outside hatch on the passenger side. Without a new hatch you could leave the end open into the trailer and run the floor supports front to rear directly under the bench walls. An under bed style bin with the little wheels on one end could slide under the new floor loaded with shoes or even better...wine...as in a wine cellar.

The floor was cut from one sheet of plywood with enough left over for the floor and seat supports as well as a new smaller table. The table leg was secured with bolts through the floor and not just screws.

Modifying your trailer to sit higher is not a new idea. If you search the forum you can find out how others have achieved the the same goal.

After our pickup bringing trailer home , our first real camping trip we felt we were sitting in a hole , couldn't see out the windows . First time we really had noticed . They didn't have a show room at the time just knew the space was too small for anything other then the regular 4 person dinette . So raised up our floor about 5 years ago . Really a improvement coming from our camper with a raised floor you could see out your windows now. After I found out the reason why no raised seating like you ,it didn't make sense . Should of been standard in my thinking .
Got to say really like what you are doing . Pat

[cpaharley2008]

Wow, you have been busy there Ed, you must have a heated garage to work in, it is way too cold here now for any work outside.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Wow, you have been busy there Ed, you must have a heated garage to work in, it is way too cold here now for any work outside.

That's where a heater or furnace comes in. My trailer has never been indoors since I got it, and almost every mod was done in winter when I had the time. Will be out there today working on it.

[Eggscape]

How low you sit in a 19 without a raised floor could be a concern for many people if they are just ordering without having sat in one. I just checked the on line option sheet and I did not see the raised floor listed. I might have missed it or it could be on the printed version you submit. Anybody ordering should understand the difference...not that I think 3 inches is enough.

Many of the modifications I am posting now were done earlier in the year. The raised floor was must so it was done within the first two weeks of getting the trailer last April. It and many of the mods were done for last years Rally in May. The weather here is still at or above freezing every day and there is not that much snow so I am still doing them outside.

I just did not feel like spend great working weather in the house writing up 30 or 40 mods. Fair warning. I hope to have all the mods posted by the end of April. Many I can’t post right now due to the long over Canadian postal strike. As you may know by now AliExpress is a favourite source of mine for ordering parts. The thousands of venders of Ali have not been given the OK to offer free shipping yet again. So a $1 item that I would like to attach a link to for the source has gone from free shipping to extreme via DHL. This situation should clear up soon.

Unrelated example attached.

[Greg A]

Nice work, Ed.
One question on the round can type fixtures on the underside of the overhead storage. The existing light fixtures are surface mount and don’t intrude into a very highly used storage bin. These new fixtures appear to require a large hole cut that they then clip into and would potentially cause loss of use of a bit of that upper storage area. Did you adress that somehow inside the cabinet or do they interfere with the space?

[Eggscape]

Originally Posted by Greg A

Nice work, Ed.
One question on the round can type fixtures on the underside of the overhead storage. The existing light fixtures are surface mount and don’t intrude into a very highly used storage bin. These new fixtures appear to require a large hole cut that they then clip into and would potentially cause loss of use of a bit of that upper storage area. Did you adress that somehow inside the cabinet or do they interfere with the space?

With our trailer there is a space between the outer panel you see and the inner floor. This is where ETI runs the wire. The space...maybe 5/8 of an inch, was enough for me to make a custom light can (literally the end of a tin can) and I used a round LED disc. The disc is held to the inside of the can with a thick layer of epoxy. When the LED disc heats up so does the epoxy thus the light can is used as a heat sink. Much better than just running theses replacement LEDs without a heat sink. The clips you see in the purchase photo were not used and the light was screwed to the surface with holes in the outer SS ring. There is a center off double throw switch behind the light that I mounted through the SS rim. I can switch between white and blue light.

So yes I had to cut a round hole in the outside panel but no I did not have to cut a hole through to the inside.

[rubicon327]

Nice work Ed. This is a significant job beyond the skill and patience of many owners.

[Greg A]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

With our trailer there is a space between the outer panel you see and the inner floor. This is where ETI runs the wire. The space...maybe 5/8 of an inch, was enough for me to make a custom light can (literally the end of a tin can) and I used a round LED disc. The disc is held to the inside of the can with a thick layer of epoxy. When the LED disc heats up so does the epoxy thus the light can is used as a heat sink. Much better than just running theses replacement LEDs without a heat sink. The clips you see in the purchase photo were not used and the light was screwed to the surface with holes in the outer SS ring. There is a center off double throw switch behind the light that I mounted through the SS rim. I can switch between white and blue light.

So yes I had to cut a round hole in the outside panel but no I did not have to cut a hole through to the inside.

Awesome, I figured you had done something, just couldn't see what from the original pics. Good solution.

[glenduggan@hotmail.com]

Hi great job on the drawers. Could you tell me what you used for sliders and where you purchased the?

[k4zvu]

Good morning.....found your post very interesting; my wife and I are also Hams....pick up our 21' in June 2019; been thinking how to mount an antenna on our Escape. would be interested in your mast-home built or purchase, details, etc.?? Band 2m ? or HF...73's Gil K4ZVU

[k4zvu]

one more question; how did you run your coaxial into your RV; special port ? or did you utilize one of the standard openings i.e. water, electrical ? 73's gil

[Eggscape]

Originally Posted by glenduggan@hotmail.com

Hi great job on the drawers. Could you tell me what you used for sliders and where you purchased the?

If you asking what the under bed bins slide on...that could be about anything as the bins are like nylon. I know someone is going to be using wood strips. I used old track lighting rail which is aluminium and sells at our local Restore for about 1 to 2 dollars for various lengths. I can’t buy and cut wood for that price. Your local Restore is located at 20104 Logan Avenue in Langley.
As the bins stack there is an indent all around the bottom. This is what slides on the rails.

[Eggscape]

Originally Posted by k4zvu

Good morning.....found your post very interesting; my wife and I are also Hams....pick up our 21' in June 2019; been thinking how to mount an antenna on our Escape. would be interested in your mast-home built or purchase, details, etc.?? Band 2m ? or HF...73's Gil K4ZVU

I picked up a few of the 3 section masts/flag poles from a gentleman that had done a bulk buy from the remains of the 2010 Winter Olympics here in BC. I have since lost his info. There is a web mark on the twist lock which is the correct site but not that great. I have added a steal collar (red) to the end so when the aluminium stub on the bottom of the antenna is inserted, the fiberglass tube does not split.

I use an Arrow dualband J pole http://www.arrowantennas.com/osj/j-pole.html because it is very durable, wide banded and most importantly does not have horizontal radials. To the bottom of the antenna I attached an aluminium stub tube that is filled with a dowel/broom stick so it doesn’t bend.

The 40 ft of of RG 8U coax goes directly from the radio at the front of the trailer to the antenna with no connectors in between. All connectors stay connected with the antenna one properly sealed. When finished the antenna lifts out of the mast with the coax attached and all goes inside a hatch.

We use a 45 watt dual-band radio with the VHF side monitoring the nearest most populated repeater for safety and the UHF side tuned to a simplex. If one of us goes for a walk alone we use UHF to communicate. The radio has two receivers so we can monitor both bands at the same time.

How I get the coax out of the trailer will all be explained in the next few days. If you can’t wait then look at the second picture in the first post as a teaser.

[Eggscape]

The short story...I removed the wood adaptor/frame and now have a flush furnace grill.

The details...On my first tour of a 19 I noticed the chunky wood adapter/frame that made the furnace grill stick out from the wall. Of course it is attached by two lovely plastic domes. I always wondered why the adapter/frame was required. It turns out ETI made the hole large enough to get the furnace out but the manufacturer did not make the grill that big.

Upon further inspection I found there were no cable clamps holding the furnace power wires away from the side of the furnace. It was touching...possibly rubbing in two places. I added one cable clamp at the front which secured the whole wire away from furnace.

The precision hole ETI cut in the panel for the furnace is not something that needs to be hidden. The grill fits perfectly inside the hole with exactly the same clearance all around. The easy way to mount the grill would simply require wood blocks running from side to side on the top and bottom. Just don’t glue them in as their removal would be required to remove the furnace.

I took a different root by installing two piano hinges with clip nuts in the center for the grill screws to grab. When you have to remove the furnace you can just lay them flat. There is enough clearance for the furnace to pass.

Either method requires a screw on both sides as a backer to support the center legs. I also covered the area with some high heat black paint to make the edges and background less noticeable.

Does this mod need to be done?...not at all. However, I do like the new look and anytime I can get rid of a few plastic domes all the better. I also have a great door frame for my next project!

[k4zvu]

Originally Posted by Eggscape

The short story...I welded some square tubing to the rear bumper and got both mast sockets and bumperettes.

The details... I always like when one project or item can serve dual purpose. It just makes it that much more worthwhile in time, cost and weight saving.

As my wife and I are both Amateur Radio Operator (Hams) I like to be able to keep in contact with the outside world. Many of the areas we go and camp here in BC are remote and doesn’t have cellphone coverage. I like to keep my radio tuned to a useful frequency in the area should we or a fellow camper need emergency medical help. Generally speaking the higher you can get your antenna the better chance of that happening. Others may like the mount for a wifi or flag pole.

I searched my stock of square tubing and could not find any with the correct inside dimension to house my 3 section, 22 foot, fiberglass mast with a 1.75 inch dia lower section. I ended up going to a local metal supplier who was happy to cut and sell to the public. He cut to length two perfect pieces for a very reasonable price. He also nipped out two metal squares which I later hand cut diagonally into four braces.

I welded each tube to the inside corner of both sides of the frame. They hang down below the bumper just enough to reveal two holes that I drilled into the sides of the tubing. This allows me the option to hoist the mast up another 1.75 feet and slide in a pin to keep it higher. Due to the height of the mast and antenna that I am using, I also added triangular braces.

I have two masts, if operations require more antennas at events or emergencies. However, I carry just one when we are camping. The two mounts allow me to select the best one to stay clear of any trees or over head wires. The license plate holder had to be moved a tad due to the size and height of my mount. If you are just using a smaller telescoping painters pole for a wifi mast, your mount need not be as high to interfere with the plate. If you’re only thinking of one mount, I would suggest the passenger side, as the trees in the center of a camp site might be less that at the edge. Even with the large diameter of my masts, it clears the belly band and I can still open both of my rear awning windows.

Not sure my first reply reached you, so, I am trying again; wife and I are Hams too....would be interested in specific details on your tubing, antenna pole and coax access from outside to inside RV, 2m antenna ? or HF ? 73's gil