Modifications to Eggscape

[Eggscape]

If you place the table on top a little off square like in the picture below, then grab the ring nut after it has been spun on, twisting the table and the nut further will lock the table in position.
Reversing the procedure will unlock it without the need for the pliers.

[cpaharley2008]

I reversed my door in my 19 for better egress from the dinette and outside areas, so that limit can be changed, if need be.

[Eggscape]

The short story...I wanted to build a U Shaped dinette. This requires a smaller table. Ours slides front to back and not side to side.

The details...We really like the look of a U Shaped dinette in Escape trailers. Since I built my own, the U part has a removable seat so we can also still sit in the traditional manner. I just wanted to point this out, as I am going to show you some different configurations that we can achieve with a smaller table. Seeing the photos may help people in deciding if a small table is right for them.

The width of the new table is the same as the factory one so it still can form some of the bed platform...approximately 30 inches. The front to rear measurement is 24 inches and this is due to one major factor. We have a “Rona” big box hardware store (I think they are now owned by Lowe’s) and they carry Arborite or Formica 2 ft by 4 ft handi panels for $6 each. I would assume that when the manufacturer chips/breaks a full sheet they cut and sell off the rest in the smaller sheets. By making the table 2 ft wide this means there is only one side to cut. I picked up enough sheets of the same product to replace the fridge front and the counter top...$25 well spent for a custom look. I was going to put metal trim around the table but after sanding the multi layer plywood edge, it turned out great. I just gave it a paint with some flat black Tremclad. Part sheets can also be found at used building supply stores such as Restore.

I used the sliders from the factory table but we decided to have it move front to back and not side to side. This works great for us as we can slide it all the way to the front cushion when we are lounging, leaving lots of room. I also used the factory knob to secure the table from sliding during transport.

Below is a photo of the underside of the table as I was updating it. I did find that the plywood the leg was screwed into flexes a bit. To solve this you can see a third piece of plywood between the other two that I am sliding into position. It got glued and screwed to the leg plywood. It is also just the right thickness to put a little tension on the sliders. This takes up any slack in the sliders making for a more stable table.

[Eggscape]

Here is the max seating configuration with the table pulled all the way to the rear of the trailer. This would be for my wife and I, our daughter and husband and our grandchild on the end. The big plates are 10 inch dia

[Eggscape]

This is our lounging position with the table push all the way to the front cushion. Plenty of room to enter and exit all day without having to push the table around.

[Eggscape]

This center position is the norm for our eating.

[Eggscape]

Since we can remove the Center seat of the U shape dinette and swivel the top on the Cheapfield base, this seating for 4 provides lots of belly room and is just generally more relaxing than a tight table.

[Eggscape]

And for us and just the granddaughter.

[stratos175]

Really like this and BIG THANKS for taking the time to post all the pictures. I do not have the skill level you have but this is a mod I want to do one day for sure.

Safe and fun travel to all,

Steve

[Eggscape]

Originally Posted by stratos175

Really like this and BIG THANKS for taking the time to post all the pictures. I do not have the skill level you have but this is a mod I want to do one day for sure.

If you do not use your table as a bed then you may find a pre made top at IKEA or similar store. Yesterday at Walmart I saw a 24 inch square flat pack end table for $17. It was thick with a black vinyl type top and 4 legs you screwed to the under side.
Good luck.

[Eggscape]

Short story...I installed a paper towel holder from Walmart that fits perfectly.

The details...This is great paper towel holder. It has a good looking finish and ratchets to allow one handed removal of sheets. I mounted it on the stud by the door so that it is acceptable from both the inside and outside.

[Eggscape]

By making a suggestion on another post re under bed storage, I realized that I have not mention that I asked ETI to not install the hinges and handles on my under bed doors and the handle on the door under the fridge. This way I could make the doors into drawers with the pulls in the correct position. For the drivers side drawer to be pulled out, the handle on door under the fridge needs to be installed on the panel...not the frame.
Here is a picture as I was in the planing stage.

[Eggscape]

Short story...I used metal floor trim to edge the medicine cabinet shelve so items would not fall out when the door was opened.

The details...The floor trim I used is very common and should be available at most hardware stores. You will need a hack saw to cut a chunk out of each end so that it fits properly. The L shape design of the metal also supports the underside of the top two shelves making them, and the whole unit, much more solid. As the bottom shelf does not need support the metal is installed with the L edge up.

I used pop rivets with backing washers to install the edging. However, counter sunk screws and nuts, or some good quality double sided tape would work as well.

I also decided on an optional cross bar which requires one hole on the passenger side and two holes on the drivers side to slide the pole in. Of course this can only be done if the cabinet is removed. I used an aluminium bar, but you could even use an elastic type cord under tension, knotted on each end from behind. To hold the bar in position, I used a little hot glue on the back side.

[Eggscape]

Short story...I installed a stainless steel type pendant LED light over the dinette for under $10.

The details...My wife was at Restore and came across this $4 used and orphaned household pendant light that we both really liked. Wondering where we would install it...it did not take long to think that this little guy was just the right size to go over the table in the trailer. I was first thinking of drilling a hole at the rear of the light that is already there and have the cord come out horizontal then drop down but that idea did not fly with the all parties.

The decision was made to take down the original light and keep it for a spare. This meant that four holes, 5.25 inches apart, in the roof had to be covered. The original standard box cover plate/dome that came with the light was not large enough. (Seen to the left in the photo) To keep with the same stainless steel look I figured that a pot lid would work perfectly. Back to Restore and they did not have exactly what I was looking for, but another thrift store did. ( Seen to the right in the photo) Many thrift stores have a bin of lids to select from. The one I got for $1, is 5.75 inches in dia and has a nice rolled edge so it does not have a cookie cutter affect when you tighten it up to the roof vinyl.

To make this light work in the trailer it had to be changed over to 12 volts. I have a favourite “COB” LED bulb that I have been using on other projects which costs around $2 Canadian all in. You can find it here High Brightness 9W 12W 15W christmas lights E27 E14 GU10 GU5.3 220V MR16 12V Cob led bulb lamp Warm White Cold White lampada led-in LED Bulbs & Tubes from Lights & Lighting on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group but you must order the correct one in the selection. I like the the warm white, 3 watt, MR16 base, 12 volts. (See order photo below) The long original (expensive) bulb was covered by a glass cover and can be seen at the bottom of a photo below. There is little point in describing how I got the bulb to work in the lamp as yours will probably not be the same.

There is also one photo that shows it up on the shelf which is where the new light will stay in transport.

You can also find some great looking small used track lights that take the same MR16 bulb and has the correct base built in to make it plug and play. These lights will have a rectangle plastic box on the end that houses a 120 volt to 12 volt transformer that you can discard. I have included a picture of a very plain white spotlight just so you can get the idea of the guts and the MR16 socket. Note the price on the light is $1 so it might be worth buying one just for the correct socket to use in another light.

Good luck with your new project!

Not my words but here are some I found on the web describing what a “COB” LED is:
COB or “Chip on Board” technology is a step forward more efficient energy use. COB is known for better lumen-per-watt ratios and heat efficiency. This has a lot to do with the design of COB LEDs, and the cooling ceramic substrate of the chips. COB chips can produce a large amount of lumens with less energy. You can find it in all kinds of bulbs and applications, such as the flash of your mobile phone or point-and-shoot camera. Its range is higher with a minimum of 80 lumens per watt.

[Eggscape]

And a step back...

[gbaglo]

What happens when you brake, turn or accelerate?

[Eggscape]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

What happens when you brake, turn or accelerate?

The lamp swings up and is stored on the shelf in a foam lined box before transport.

[Greg A]

Sweet. We dont have a light fixture in that location on our classic 19. Did you have them add a fixture there or is it now standard in the new 19?
Very nicely done.

[Eggscape]

Originally Posted by Greg A

Sweet. We dont have a light fixture in that location on our classic 19. Did you have them add a fixture there or is it now standard in the new 19?
Very nicely done.

It was standard this year when we got our 19...
There is a standard factory installed switch at the front door that turns on 3 roof mounted lights. This one, one over the fridge and one over the bed. I understand that this is new in the past few years. Each has a switch so you can turn them off which we will mostly due unless we are fixing something.
I am very disappointed that there is not a light in the classic as I like to do mods that everyone can do. I am sure you could put a hook where our light is and swag in a cord with a light suspended from it.

[frank_a]

Nicely done! Ingenuity at work...