Need some help relocating thermostat

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

I mounting a lCD Tv on the wall where thermostat is located in my 19'. Because of my hand down stereo I will have to move the thermostat. Has anyone done this? I wondering if i can do it with out removing fridge . my build picture shows a hole for the wire. Taking it thermostat off it appears wire comes from the top down. problem I need to move either up 16" or down 5" and both ways there is a 1x3 in the way. I am assuming this goes to the Air conditioner first before furnace.But I not sure.

[Ron in BC]

Interesting the way they make minor changes over the years.

When I pulled out my fridge on my 19 several years ago this is what that area looked like. There wasn't anything there on the rear and there was a gap between the framing and the fridge. So at that time it would have been quite easy to fish the wire around the framing.

I'm not sure if there's now insulation in that area between the fridge and the wall which would make the job more difficult. Maybe someone who's pulled a newer model fridge can comment.

Ron

[cpaharley2008]

Based upon those pictures, it appears the older models had more robust framing.....

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

After a closer look there is some insulation in there,But seems to be 3/4" space with out it little. probably Because of the 1x3's. I also noticed its not a 3 wires in one shield. Instead its 2 wires in one shield and a long wire. makes me think one might go to furnace. Hmm holes to small to get inspection in there. I hate to have to remove fridge.

[cpaharley2008]

Sounds like a "Gumption trap".....see here for example: https://www.thriftbooks.com/w/zen-an...dition=2410759

[BobG]

Michael, Your setup looks a lot like mine. I have a 2021 21NE and I just pulled the Norcold DC558 refrigerator to change the thermostat. What I found is the following:

It was relatively easy to pull the refrigerator and reinstall it.

I set a milk carton in front of the refrigerator and set the refrigerator there while I disconnected and later reconnected it.

The red and black larger gauge wires I see laying on the bottom of the cavity in your picture will plug into the refrigerator. They plug into the top of my refrigerator.

The thermostat I had was connected to the furnace with 2 blue wires that ran from the small hole toward the side of the trailer and then down and under the refrigerator cavity to the furnace. One of those wires is +12V from the furnace and the other blue wire connects back to the furnace.

I added a ground wire for the new thermostat by splicing into a DC negative that is in the vertical bundle you see in the back left corner.

Before Escape installs the refrigerator they will add batt insulation to the sides. The thermostat wires will be behind the insulation on the thermostat wall.

It will be easy to relocate the thermostat after accessing the blue wires. You might want to glue a block of wood to the back side of the paneling for the thermostat screws at the new location.

You might also want to add a ground wire if you think you will ever want to change the thermostat in the future. The thermostat that came with my trailer requires moving a lever back and forth until the temperature feels comfortable. It was an iterative process at night and then in the morning.

I added a couple additional layers of reflective insulation above the refrigerator and 2" (2x 1") of closed cell foam insulation on the outside wall behind the refrigerator. I also added a piece of the 1" foam board to the wall where the thermostat is. This filled the framing cavity of that wall so when I replaced the batt insulation, it closed off the space between the wall and the refrigerator. The right side of the refrigerator closes off against the existing batt insulation as the refrigerator is installed.

You may have a different refrigerator and thermostat than mine so things may be different.

My microwave is above the refrigerator and on the same circuit as the outlets. I rewired it to it's own AC circuit while the refrigerator was out.

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

Originally Posted by BobG

Michael, Your setup looks a lot like mine. I have a 2021 21NE and I just pulled the Norcold DC558 refrigerator to change the thermostat. What I found is the following:

It was relatively easy to pull the refrigerator and reinstall it.

I set a milk carton in front of the refrigerator and set the refrigerator there while I disconnected and later reconnected it.

The red and black larger gauge wires I see laying on the bottom of the cavity in your picture will plug into the refrigerator. They plug into the top of my refrigerator.

The thermostat I had was connected to the furnace with 2 blue wires that ran from the small hole toward the side of the trailer and then down and under the refrigerator cavity to the furnace. One of those wires is +12V from the furnace and the other blue wire connects back to the furnace.

I added a ground wire for the new thermostat by splicing into a DC negative that is in the vertical bundle you see in the back left corner.

Before Escape installs the refrigerator they will add batt insulation to the sides. The thermostat wires will be behind the insulation on the thermostat wall.

It will be easy to relocate the thermostat after accessing the blue wires. You might want to glue a block of wood to the back side of the paneling for the thermostat screws at the new location.

You might also want to add a ground wire if you think you will ever want to change the thermostat in the future. The thermostat that came with my trailer requires moving a lever back and forth until the temperature feels comfortable. It was an iterative process at night and then in the morning.

I added a couple additional layers of reflective insulation above the refrigerator and 2" (2x 1") of closed cell foam insulation on the outside wall behind the refrigerator. I also added a piece of the 1" foam board to the wall where the thermostat is. This filled the framing cavity of that wall so when I replaced the batt insulation, it closed off the space between the wall and the refrigerator. The right side of the refrigerator closes off against the existing batt insulation as the refrigerator is installed.

You may have a different refrigerator and thermostat than mine so things may be different.

My microwave is above the refrigerator and on the same circuit as the outlets. I rewired it to it's own AC circuit while the refrigerator was out.

Thanks Bob Very helpful " thermostat wires will be behind the insulation on the thermostat wall" I might be able to fish these wires yet. In my case I have the digital thermostat . I believe all three wires go to the control box in the air condition and the furnace wire goes there also. I have the larger fridge with no microwave or cabinet above. I might be able it see something if i remove the roof fridge vent .ETI has filled the screw holes with dycor. At least if i do have to remove fridge I feel more comfortable after your post.

[Vermilye]

Originally Posted by NEWYORKHILLBILLY

After a closer look there is some insulation in there,But seems to be 3/4" space with out it little. probably Because of the 1x3's. I also noticed its not a 3 wires in one shield. Instead its 2 wires in one shield and a long wire. makes me think one might go to furnace. Hmm holes to small to get inspection in there. I hate to have to remove fridge.

If you have the Dometic thermostat that controls both the AC & furnace, the three wires are a +12V, ground, and signal or control wire. The thermostat uses the signal or control wire to send data to a box in the air conditioner that controls both the AC & furnace. It does not go directly to the furnace.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by NEWYORKHILLBILLY

I might be able it see something if i remove the roof fridge vent .ETI has filled the screw holes with dycor.

No, you won't. While removing the roof vent is handy for running wires down from the roof etc. it won't help you here. There's a "back wall" behind the fridge. It doesn't go right to the bottom and you don't see it unless you put your head almost inside the side opening.

So you don't need to take the vent top off but if you had to the Dicor plugs just pop out when stabbed with a scriber.

Ron

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

No, you won't. While removing the roof vent is handy for running wires down from the roof etc. it won't help you here. There's a "back wall" behind the fridge. It doesn't go right to the bottom and you don't see it unless you put your head almost inside the side opening.

So you don't need to take the vent top off but if you had to the Dicor plugs just pop out when stabbed with a scriber.

Ron

I put a bright light in the vent and looked from the inside. I see the side walls are sheathed. For some reason I was thinking that sheeting did not go all the way along side the fridge to the front . seems I remember seeing that it someones build picture . I looked threw my build pictures and don't have one that shows that sheeting at all. I was hoping if i took that vent off I could find those thermostat wires. I thinking they run along side the fridge to roof and then under the head liner to the AC unit. maybe theirs a short wall at the top of fringe. It that where your referring to? thanks for all the help

[Ron in BC]

Here's a photo looking down the vent chase with the vent cap removed.

The aluminum fins are a mod that I did to duct the hot exhaust more directly up and out.

The dappled grey panel covers the back of the fridge. You can see the bulkhead to the right is continuous to the roof and that there's no access there to the area over the fridge.

Don't know what you think of this idea.

You have to fish the wires a short distance. I think if I had to do that I'd make the current hole larger, say 3/4". I use a piece of 14 ga. copper wire for this type of situation. It's flexible, I'd bend it in an arc. Clothes hanger wire would probably be OK. Then I'd drill the new thermostat hole. Then it's just a matter of patience and wiggle and jiggle. We know there is clearance inside and poking by the insulation shouldn't be a problem.

Another way is to put a small weight on a string and push it through the upper hole. Then wiggle and push it with a wire until it drops down. Then fish it out the bottom with a hook.

Ron

[NEWYORKHILLBILLY]

good advise . I don't really want to enlarge the current hole as i going to have to fill it with wood filler. I going to put the project on hold until my TV mount arrives.