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Old 01-22-2017, 11:29 AM   #61
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appreciate all the pics everyone is posting on their installation methods!
that SMEV PI8022US 2-Burner is interesting and saw something like that at a recent rv show..but would like to hear from the Dickinson owners..the Dickinson appears to have a top stainless surface (the grease/drip catcher on top next to the burners) and another liner/box under it and enclosing it and any piping to the burners... thus it appears to be somewhat double hulled ? If so this might prevent anything under it from coming into contact with the grease/drip catcher liner that also is subject to some heat. Wondering also if that underside enclosure if it exists on the Dickinson is removable?
The Dickinson grates look more substantial but may actually be harder to clean and/or remove?
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Old 01-22-2017, 11:31 AM   #62
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Here is what I ended up using. Removed the intermediate fitting supplied with the stove as Mesa did. Used a 1/8" MIP x 1-1/2" nipple and then a 1/8" FIP female pipe elbow and then put the supplied flare fitting back on. My arrangement just barely cleared the drawer. A 1-1/4" nipple would have been perfect but they didn't have one.
So using these fittings doesn't violate code in an RV? Not the same as splicing the gas line?
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Old 01-22-2017, 01:32 PM   #63
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Somewhat related to this stove thread - I loved the Dickinson stove but didn't need/want that much burner power in my Scamp 13, so I went with a "SMEV PI8022US 2-Burner". It sits flush with the counter when not in use, and the quality is way better than my old original stove. Its stainless and thermocouple-protected. I think it was a bit over $300 as a scratch-and-dent special on Ebay. Oliver uses these. Just mentioning it as an option; we are very pleased with ours.
Any pictures of the install available?
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Old 01-22-2017, 02:33 PM   #64
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So using these fittings doesn't violate code in an RV? Not the same as splicing the gas line?
I don't know RV codes, but I do know the stock cooktop had 3 fittings off the manifold in the stock configuration. The only change is the 90 degree orientation. I'm confident in my work and leak tested it. The codes are probably just trying to avoid splices in obscure areas that could be dangerous if leaking. I think it is reasonable to expect fittings at an appliance termination.
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Old 01-22-2017, 02:37 PM   #65
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Jim, there's not much to it - I cut the original stove cutout a little larger, and dropped it in. I made a cardboard template of the stove bottom to make sure I got it right. PM me your email and I can send a couple pics of it installed if you like.

Freespirit, the SMEV also seems to be sealed from above, propane pools around the burners if you choose to let it, which is better than sinking into the cabinetry. It may be 'double hulled' as well. The grates are not stainless but lift out easily enough for cleaning the stainless top. And are small enough at the center to hold a stovetop espresso maker.
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Old 01-22-2017, 02:55 PM   #66
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appreciate all the pics everyone is posting on their installation methods!
that SMEV PI8022US 2-Burner is interesting and saw something like that at a recent rv show..but would like to hear from the Dickinson owners..the Dickinson appears to have a top stainless surface (the grease/drip catcher on top next to the burners) and another liner/box under it and enclosing it and any piping to the burners... thus it appears to be somewhat double hulled ? If so this might prevent anything under it from coming into contact with the grease/drip catcher liner that also is subject to some heat. Wondering also if that underside enclosure if it exists on the Dickinson is removable?
The Dickinson grates look more substantial but may actually be harder to clean and/or remove?
freespirit, since I had the stove apart last night I'll try my best. Your description is pretty accurate. There is a traditional full stainless surround at the burner level that you obviously see in the pictures. Unless you make a real huge mess nothing should get beyond this area. Underneath is another fully enclosed and vented area that houses all of the piping and electronics. Since this unit has electric ignition and a safety system that shuts off the gas if the flame goes out (it works...I tried it) there is a bunch more stuff in there compared to the stock stove. This whole bottom area "tray" separates from the upper part with 4 screws on the lower sides, but not after the cooktop is installed. You can see the bottom of the tray in my photos of the gas line (the bottom is so shiny it appears like there are two gas lines). There are some screws on top that I didn't mess with that appears may allow you to remove the top burner surround/liner and access the guts. There is one big grate across both burners that is in tight but pops out for cleaning. To change the 9V battery and access the burner valves you remove the two knobs and then remove too small screws. This whole little cover section on the right side lifts off for access to this area. Can't imagine this thing being made much better. Hope this helps!
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Old 01-22-2017, 03:37 PM   #67
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I don't know RV codes, but I do know the stock cooktop had 3 fittings off the manifold in the stock configuration. The only change is the 90 degree orientation. I'm confident in my work and leak tested it. The codes are probably just trying to avoid splices in obscure areas that could be dangerous if leaking. I think it is reasonable to expect fittings at an appliance termination.
Ok thanks. Was wondering as I seem to remember Chris R ran a new line to get the extra length he needed for his install of the same appliance.
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Old 01-22-2017, 03:43 PM   #68
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Ok thanks. Was wondering as I seem to remember Chris R ran a new line to get the extra length he needed for his install of the same appliance.
I believe in Chris' case, the kitchen was only roughed in at the factory, which means there was a gas line roughed in but not connected to anything. His was too short. When you're dealing with changing from the stock stove to the Dickinson, the fitting is actually closer to the side wall, not farther. That was good because all I had to do was cut the existing line shorter, add a flare and a bend, and connect it.
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Old 01-22-2017, 03:54 PM   #69
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If they did that for Chris R, they have said for a while now that they cannot run a gas line that is not hooked up to the appliance. Chris had such an unusual and fantastic deal going.
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Old 01-22-2017, 04:12 PM   #70
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Ok thanks. Was wondering as I seem to remember Chris R ran a new line to get the extra length he needed for his install of the same appliance.
He had to rerun, as the existing one was too short.
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Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
I believe in Chris' case, the kitchen was only roughed in at the factory, which means there was a gas line roughed in but not connected to anything. His was too short. When you're dealing with changing from the stock stove to the Dickinson, the fitting is actually closer to the side wall, not farther. That was good because all I had to do was cut the existing line shorter, add a flare and a bend, and connect it.
He did have the stove installed when he picked it up. I can't recall the reason he had to rerun the line though. This is his photo of his galley when he got the trailer.

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Old 01-22-2017, 06:50 PM   #71
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freespirit, since I had the stove apart last night I'll try my best. Your description is pretty accurate. There is a traditional full stainless surround at the burner level that you obviously see in the pictures. Unless you make a real huge mess nothing should get beyond this area. Underneath is another fully enclosed and vented area that houses all of the piping and electronics. Since this unit has electric ignition and a safety system that shuts off the gas if the flame goes out (it works...I tried it) there is a bunch more stuff in there compared to the stock stove. This whole bottom area "tray" separates from the upper part with 4 screws on the lower sides, but not after the cooktop is installed. You can see the bottom of the tray in my photos of the gas line (the bottom is so shiny it appears like there are two gas lines). There are some screws on top that I didn't mess with that appears may allow you to remove the top burner surround/liner and access the guts. There is one big grate across both burners that is in tight but pops out for cleaning. To change the 9V battery and access the burner valves you remove the two knobs and then remove too small screws. This whole little cover section on the right side lifts off for access to this area. Can't imagine this thing being made much better. Hope this helps!
thanks for the detailed info...
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Old 01-22-2017, 06:59 PM   #72
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Freespirit, the SMEV also seems to be sealed from above, propane pools around the burners if you choose to let it, which is better than sinking into the cabinetry. It may be 'double hulled' as well. The grates are not stainless but lift out easily enough for cleaning the stainless top. And are small enough at the center to hold a stovetop espresso maker.
Thank you for the additional info...
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Old 01-22-2017, 07:34 PM   #73
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He had to rerun, as the existing one was too short.

He did have the stove installed when he picked it up. I can't recall the reason he had to rerun the line though.
On mine, the stock gas line entered the cooktop on the left side and it was not long enough to be rerouted to the back right corner of the Dickinson. I believe ETI is required to complete the installation of any appliance and test. They can't just run a gas line without the appliance attached.
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Old 01-23-2017, 04:51 AM   #74
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On mine, the stock gas line entered the cooktop on the left side and it was not long enough to be rerouted to the back right corner of the Dickinson. I believe ETI is required to complete the installation of any appliance and test. They can't just run a gas line without the appliance attached.
Ah, that's right. Thanks for the clarification. So, they ran the line to the left instead of to the right.
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Old 01-23-2017, 07:48 AM   #75
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On mine, the stock gas line entered the cooktop on the left side and it was not long enough to be rerouted to the back right corner of the Dickinson. I believe ETI is required to complete the installation of any appliance and test. They can't just run a gas line without the appliance attached.
This is great info for anyone contemplating an install of the Dickinson. It highlights the differences in the builds. No issues with 3 of us with 2010, 2015 and 2016 19's because the stock gas line comes from the right and actually needed to be shortened. The 5.0TA has the line coming from the left and is too short. In this case I presume you routed a new line with the connection made outside under the trailer?
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Old 01-23-2017, 10:06 AM   #76
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The 5.0TA has the line coming from the left and is too short. In this case I presume you routed a new line with the connection made outside under the trailer?
Yes, the line came up the middle of the counter behind the front then back to the stove. I choose to replace it because of the risk of cracks with straightening and re-bending the line. And yes, the connection was made outside under the trailer.
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Old 01-23-2017, 10:53 AM   #77
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please excuse the inquiring mind....is there like a manifold or hub (lack of knowing what actually to call it) where all gas lines terminate ..one to stove, one to hot water heater, one to fridge, and one to furnace?
and if so is it located in the V part up front of the frame like maybe under the propane tanks?
just trying to get an idea of the piping..so if the above is correct for something like an Escape 19 then there would be three gas lines on the underside on the drivers side and one gas line on the underside on the passenger side of the frame...
OR is the drivers side gas line a single line with multiple taps for the three appliances?
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Old 01-23-2017, 11:46 AM   #78
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OR is the drivers side gas line a single line with multiple taps for the three appliances?
On ours, it was the single line to the water heater (at back of trailer) with flared Ts for the fridge, furnace and cooktop.
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Old 01-23-2017, 12:12 PM   #79
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OR is the drivers side gas line a single line with multiple taps for the three appliances?
I haven't studied the entire propane system closely, but there is only one main line that runs rearward down the driver's side. It would stand to reason that this has the flared taps to each appliance as needed according to how Chris R saw his designed. This has all connections only outside the trailer or at appliances, with no splices elsewhere. It would be unnecessary and wasteful in my mind to manifold at the front of the trailer and run individual lines back to each appliance.
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Old 04-17-2019, 10:57 AM   #80
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With flush cutting board infill piece
The "cutting board" top for the Dickinson cook top is not used for cutting and had kind of a dull lightly stained finish that was getting marked up. This is one part that could probably be a little nicer given the cost. Decided to sand it down and give it a polyurethane clear coat.
Attached Thumbnails
stove top board.jpg  
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